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- [00:01]
A
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B
Hello and welcome to ASCP's SD Talk. I'm your co host Maggie Stasik, ASCP's program director.
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C
And I'm Ella Cressman, Licensed esthetician, certified organic skincare formulator, ingredient junkie and content contributor for ascp.
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B
Today we are diving into a topic that's been bubbling up everywhere perimenopause. And this time we're going deeper. We've talked about perimenopause and hormonal skin shifts several times on this show and it's safe to say perimenopause is having a moment culturally, commercially and in the treatment room. Would you agree Ella?
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C
Yep. Everywhere.
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B
Search interests for perimenopause related topics have jumped significantly in Some reports over 50% year over year and consumer demand for solutions that adapt to fluctuating, not generic. One size fits all products is rising. Market data also shows that women's health and beauty supplement sector for perimenopause generated over 9 billion globally in 2024 and is projected to reach more than 12 billion by 2030. That's huge. So this definitely isn't a niche whisper anymore. It's a multi billion dollar conversation intersecting beauty, wellness and healthcare. And estheticians are right there in the middle of it. Ella, before we dive in, what's your sense of how this shift, this broader cultural focus on perimenopause shows up with clients in the treatment room?
- [04:01]
C
I think it happens before the treatment room, it happens in the consultation, which for me I perform outside of the treatment room to start. I feel like it shows up in a way that opens the conversation with the clients on potential causes of what could be going on and that then shifts what we do in the treatment room. I feel like it's also really great outside of the treatment room and in the classroom. In the classroom, that is our industry, wherever that may be, on social media or otherwise, on alternative ways of thinking different from what we were fed in school or what we've been fed since school. On approaches like aging, dryness, hyperpigmentation and even acne. Like you have to treat it a little bit different in this stage. So I'm, you know, I'm a huge fan of asking more questions and I think that's what this swings that door open for.
- [04:50]
B
I couldn't agree more. I think you're so right. But let's talk about who is showing up in the treatment room. Yes, teens and clients in their twenties do come in. They're exploring services like waxing brows, acne treatments, et cetera. And many of them I, I think are leaning heavily on over the counter products. But when it comes to consistent investment in professional aesthetic services, the demographic that really shows up again and again, and you tell me if I'm wrong with questions and spending power, is women in their 30s, 40s and beyond the perimenopause age group.
- [05:25]
C
I think that's true in my case for sure. Um, I, I lucky like to work alongside Kiera and I see that her regulars, I'm assuming, are in that I'm totally judging, but I'm assuming you're in that demographic for sure because it's the problem skin. It's not just the maintenance part yet. And that's oftentimes what we're sought out for is to solve a problem initially.
- [05:48]
B
Yeah. So to touch on what you said earlier, this is the group asking about dryness, fluctuating oil levels, sensitivity, hormonal breakouts, pigmentation, aging concerns, even body changes connected to sleep and stress. And these clients, I think, have the financial capacity to invest regularly, and they're seeking the guidance that's personalized and reliable.
- [06:13]
C
Just speaking from personal experience, things change day to day. I had oily skin yesterday. Today I'm. I have like parched skin. It's looking young, looking great. Last week, this week, I feel like I'm have like, where'd my laxity go? Tomorrow it might be back. And that, that is definitely related to sleep patterns, you know, beauty sleep and stress levels and the way we tolerate the traffic lights or whatever on your commute. But you want answers and you want somebody to help you too. So I think that is for sure.
- [06:51]
B
With your approach in your treatment space, carrying more than one line, having customizable treatment options, even your own personal experience with perimenopause, how does that influence the way you design treatment plans for clients in this group?
- [07:04]
C
For me, it's a conversation and a lot of education on what could happen. I love to simplify the routines because if we're simplifying the routines and we're explaining exactly what each of these are for, having like a core group of products, then a few specialty things to navigate the up and down of oil production, laxity and things like that. It creates an understanding. I mean, I do this for all my clients, but especially in this group, like to get to know your skin so you can identify what's going on. Because what was happening before was blaming lack of hydration, for example, on not having the right products, or a laxity issue on that product that they bought last time didn't work. And it's not that. It's really biological what's happening. So how do you match it up with something? So my advice is to have a core group of products that are kind of like your wave riders, your little surfers that go along in the ups and the downs. And then you bring in specialties later and explain when and how to use them one at a time where they're the star of that particular appointment. And then have them implement that and keep really, really good notes on them. Ask them when they come back, like, how did it go? When did you use it? What have you noticed that has been so successful for me?
- [08:22]
B
I totally align with that. And I think it's a really good analogy because for myself at home, I have kind of like the basic neutral products that are every Day. And then from a day to day basis, I feel like, okay, today my skin is really needing X. I can pull that from the cabinet. And it's that supplemental serum or supplemental eye cream, you know, wink, wink, that
- [08:46]
C
you use all the time, right? Eye roll.
- [08:48]
B
Eye roll, yeah. You know, but I think that's a, to build your regimen in this phase of life as your skin, from day to day or week to week is going through these constant up and downs, for sure.
- [09:03]
C
And also in educating your clients about that part, taking the time to first of all, listen. Take the time to listen and validate what they've got going on and then explain why this is happening and then explain how, how to ride with it. It creates trust. And I've heard other practitioners express fear around that, like, of why am I teaching them that when they're not gonna wanna come to me anymore? And like, oh, absolutely. The other way around. They're gonna be empowered and think that, I mean, understand that they need to come to you or they trust you enough to help them in those interim times.
- [09:40]
B
We keep hearing the phrase whole body health and wellness intersection. For these clients, the conversation isn't just about a cleanser or a vitamin C serum. It's about holistic support. According to market research and industry insights, the perimenopause and women's midlife wellness category is no longer niche. We we've said that there's rapid growth in supplements, digital health platforms, symptom tracking tools, personalized care experiences, and even expanded retail assortments that include skills, skin care, nutrition, supportive wellness products. Clients are asking about routines that support these fluctuating skin conditions that Ella and I even are attesting to here. Sleep patterns, stress response, gut health, even intimacy changes, all of which can impact the skin indirectly. This is why estheticians are finding themselves explaining why dryness today may be followed by sensitivity tomorrow, and why clients want adaptable recommendations, not rigid routines. What are your thoughts about that, Ella? Are you hearing from clients about wellness and skin? How are you guiding those conversations?
- [10:50]
C
I'm asking the questions, what else are they doing? And sometimes they've got a list of what they've got going on as far as like pursuing wellness at this stage. And other times they haven't thought about it. So it's a provocative conversation. One thing that seems to come up over and over and over, which is really important to understand as an esthetician or aesthetic provider, is this parallel too, that happens is the hormone therapies. Not just hormone replacement therapies, but, you know, just Adjustments I've seen so many people pursuing, trying to get energy, trying to feel that arousal again, getting on testosterone and often pellets too, which I have my opinions on. But that directly affects the skin. So it's important to understand how it works, how the pellets particularly are metabolized. And so if they're on a hormone therapy, understanding, is it a cream, is it a pill, is it a shot, or is it these pellets? Because you'll have a spike and then a decline depending on the, you know, daily, weekly or every three months application.
- [11:58]
B
Let's talk protocols. Some businesses offer a structured menu and protocols to maintain outcomes and consistency across clients. We've talked about that. That's important. And consistency builds trust, repeat business and professional integrity, no question. But when it comes to hormonal shifts, perimenopause flexibility becomes a strength. A client discharged from the same protocol two weeks apart may present completely different skin needs based on sleep patterns, stress or hormone fluctuations. That's where in estheticians, adaptive expertise becomes incredibly valuable. We've talked about that many times before. Not in disrespecting the menu, but in knowing when and how to adjust without losing consistency or results. What do you think about the balance between structured protocols and adaptability? How do you navigate that in real time with clients going through these shifts?
- [12:55]
C
I don't like the word structured protocols. I guess the words aren't a problem as the idea, because perimenopause, for sure, this is guaranteed. There's a fluctuation, but this can be in anybody's life based on emotions, based on their own sleep patterns and stress and stuff. So for me, it's always about adaptability. There's protocols that are written in a way as a guide, kind of like a recipe, but you need to be able to substitute and fix and keep it completely customizable. And I've always done that and I've been a huge advocate of that. So I think then if you take it into like a structured treatment plan, I don't think you're serving your client and or your patient in the best way possible. I think you have to have flexibility, have the timing there. But don't be so stuck on the, what are we going, this is how we're going to do it.
- [13:45]
B
And you don't even do like a traditional European facial, right?
- [13:50]
C
I don't never. I follow this step, of course. I wash the skin first most of the time. Sometimes I jump in with an enzyme first. I know that's crazy, but it just kind of Depends on what they've got going on. But I cleanse, I generally exfoliate after. I generally do some kind of a massage manipulation, then a mask and then finishing products. So I kind of follow it, but I don't. It's not ever this. It's TJ Maxx at my place. It's never the same place twice, you know.
- [14:15]
B
Yeah, yeah.
- [14:16]
C
And I.
- [14:16]
B
There's a lot to be said about that. Exactly. To your point, one client, day to day, is gonna have very different skin, regardless of where they are in their life.
- [14:24]
C
I had a client yesterday who came in, she had a surgery blepharoplasty, so an eye lift and a couple other nip tucks. But her skin was completely different. And I was very nervous about treating her cuz I usually try to wait six weeks. So she's at the four weeks mark. But what we did was just purely hydrating and just gently doing some lymphatic movements. It was a super simple protocol, but that's what her skin needed. So I didn't follow. I made that one up yesterday. Off the cuff. You have to be like that.
- [14:55]
B
Yeah. So touching on that, communication with your clients, and especially perimenopause clients, it isn't just about what products are you using.
- [15:05]
C
Right.
- [15:05]
B
It's about helping them understand why their skin is behaving differently and what they can do about it. During perimenopause or hormonal fluctuations, this can cause rapid shifts between dryness and oiliness, increased sensitivity and reactivity, breakouts or changes in acne patterns, uneven tone and texture, and then even early signs of collagen and elastin breakdown. Educating clients on these changes is critical. I think you would agree with that, right?
- [15:31]
C
For sure. And explaining the. The stretch and the bounce back for sure too.
- [15:36]
B
Yeah. And these signs aren't of neglect or permanent damage. They're normal biological responses. Treatments can be tailored. That's what we're talking about here. And Ella does that with every client, every treatment. I'm curious, if you have a structured protocol, how easy is it to shift from that when your client is displaying some of these signs of hormone fluctuation?
- [16:02]
C
I guess it would be. I imagine it depends on the practitioner because some people just like the predictability. They know they're gonna do this and turns out okay. But being able to navigate with your client is such an invaluable skill.
- [16:17]
B
I worked at a spa many moons ago that was very structured, very specific protocols and I had a hard time following it.
- [16:26]
C
You. I don't believe it. You Rule breaker.
- [16:30]
B
Mostly because of my personality, but also because, you know, clients would book the tropical facial, as you say, but they didn't need the tropical facial. So how do you still give them the tropical facial, but also what their skin needs?
- [16:44]
C
That's a great question. I think the easiest answer is in the finishing products because you can, you know, that's what they're left with. You can do slight adjustments, like a slight tweak with the exfoliation, perhaps add a little bit more here or there. And I think mask and finishing products is the easiest answer.
- [17:03]
B
What's your thought about. Is the goal to fix or not fix these hormonal problems we're seeing in the treatment room, or is it more about empowering the client with knowledge? What is the ultimate goal and the ultimate takeaway for the client?
- [17:20]
C
Honestly, holding their hand while they're riding the wave? Because you can fix something one day that's gonna break the next. It just is. It is what it is. So holding their hand and saying, this is going to happen, you're gonna get a pimple, you're gonna be okay. It's gonna go away. It just makes you look younger. That's what I tell them. Or your. Your pigment is going to show up a little bit darker. Let's adjust. I mean, there's some things that, yeah, you can look at, like having, you know, a skin brightener. Great. You definitely want to have that in your routine. You definitely want to have like a really universal moisturizer. Not. It's like the Goldilocks of moisturizers. Not too much, not too little. You want to have a good cleanser, you want to have a good night cream. Like, there's. There it is. That's your basics. But explaining this is when you're going to feel dry, it's. I'm not sure where it's gonna be in your cycles as they're changing, but when you feel dry, use this. When you feel oily, you know, don't use that that day in empowering them, you're holding their hand, you can't fix it. There are some things that are out of scope as far as fixing it, but you can address it.
- [18:25]
B
Yeah, a hundred percent. Listeners, we wanna hear from you. What's your take on perimenopause in the treatment room? Share with us on social media, through Instagram, Facebook or by emailing getconnected@ascpskincare.com. thank you for listening to ASCPSD Talk. And as always, for more information on this episode or for ways to connect with Ella and myself. Or to learn more about ascp, check out the show notes.