Ep 393 – BEMT: The New Sunscreen Ingredient

Summary

Episode Overview

Title: Ep 393 – BEMT: The New Sunscreen Ingredient
Podcast: ASCP Esty Talk
Release Date: May 13, 2026
Host(s): Maggie Stasik (ASCP Program Director) & Ella Cressman (Licensed Esthetician)
Main Theme:
This episode explores the introduction of bimotrizenol (BEMT), the first new FDA-approved sunscreen active ingredient in the U.S. since 1999. The hosts dive into regulatory differences, efficacy, user experience, environmental concerns, and the potential impact BEMT will have on skincare professionals and consumers.

---

Key Discussion Points & Insights

FDA Regulations vs. International Standards

• U.S. Regulation Complexity:
  Maggie highlights, “In the US, sunscreens are regulated as over-the-counter drugs under the FDA. Any active ingredient … must go through FDA review and approval before it can legally be used in a product marketed as a sunscreen.” (01:46)
• International Comparison:
  Ella explains, “In Europe…In Japan, they’re regulated as cosmetics…with a more streamlined process.…Once it is approved, companies have more flexibility to launch new filters that have already been evaluated internationally.” (02:42)
• Cost Barriers:
  “For a single filter, it can cost tens of millions of dollars, which limits which ingredients companies bring to market.” (Ella, 04:48)

BEMT: The New Ingredient

• Properties & Benefits:
  Maggie introduces BEMT: “Stable, it provides broad spectrum UV protection and it helps with the white cast and skin feel that some people argue against with things like zinc oxide…” (03:40)
• Current U.S. Options:
  “US has 16 approved filters, but only 8 are commonly used. Fewer are considered highly effective…Compare this to Europe and Japan, where formulators have over 30 filters, including options that are considered more elegant, more protective.” – Maggie (03:40)
• International Usage:
  “BEMT is already used internationally and in some very well-known over-the-counter brands like La Roche Posay.…Known to be lightweight, fluid, easy to layer under makeup…” (Maggie, 05:41)
• FDA Approval Journey:
  “The manufacturer … spent over 20 million and it took them 20 years to get approval in the U.S. Consistency is key.” (Maggie, 05:58)
• Expected Release:
  “We’ll start seeing this ingredient pop up in products late 2026.” (Maggie, 06:18)

Sunscreen Testing Methods & Inclusivity

• Traditional U.S. Testing:
  Maggie describes, “Testing sunscreens in the US has traditionally been done with human volunteers…exposed to UV light until the skin shows reddening…not inclusive.” (06:18)
• Limitations for Diverse Skin Tones:
  Ella notes, “Darker skin tones aren’t gonna show redness the same way a lighter skin one would…no matter the tone, the reactivity is different person by person.” (06:58)
• Advances in Testing:
  Maggie mentions UV spectroscopy as a newer, more equitable approach: “This method is considered objective, accurate…can be used for all skin tones…” (07:15)

Formulation Experience & Compliance

• User Experience:
  “I feel like this could bring fewer complaints about the white cast or the stickiness, too.” (Ella, 08:34)
• Client Compliance:
  “For estheticians, this could mean we have better protection, broader UV coverage, improved textures, and higher compliance…” (Ella, 08:34)
• SPF in Makeup:
  “What is your feeling about the argument that, yes, I wear SPF because it’s in my makeup?” (Maggie, 09:27)
  Ella responds, “I think that argument is…okay…I think that can be enough coverage to answer that question fully…I’m a big fan of meeting people where they are.” (09:33)

Chemical vs. Physical Sunscreens, Environmental Concerns

• BEMT’s Category:
  “This is a chemical. There are only two physical: zinc and titanium.” (Maggie, 12:02)
• Hormonal Safety:
  “Not known as a hormone blocker. So, good chemical alternative.” (Ella, 12:08)
• Reef Safety and Environmental Impact:
  Discussion on the impact of chemical sunscreen ingredients like avobenzone and oxybenzone on the environment, with Ella sharing her hopes for BEMT:
  “I hope they make a spray that brings protection so I’m not aging…that keeps me looking young, but makes me protected. And the environment.…Am I putting a lot of pressure on this particular ingredient…?” (Ella, 13:41)
• Personal Preferences:
  “I for one, love zinc products. And the white cast for me is not a problem.” (Maggie, 13:54)

SPF Value, Consumer Misconceptions & Education

• SPF Numbers:
  “30 is fine…cause they’re like, well, I’m going here, so I better get a 70. So I do shout that out—hey, there’s really not much of a difference.…The whole SPF thing is whacked.” (Ella, 15:41) “30 is what you need, that’s it. Because you’re going to be reapplying, and any number higher than that is not necessarily more protection. It’s just more chemicals.” (Maggie, 16:02)
• Reapplication is Key:
  “Reapplying because tequila…reapply is the best.” (Ella, 16:51)

---

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• “For the first time since 1999, we’re getting a new active ingredient in the sunscreen world. This isn’t just about chemistry. It affects how our clients experience sunscreen and how we educate them.”
  — Maggie Stasik (01:46)

• “Once you’re in, you’re good, but a lot different here.”
  — Ella Cressman, on the differences in international vs. US approval (02:42)

• “A single filter can cost tens of millions of dollars to approve.”
  — Ella Cressman (04:48)

• “BEMT is stable, provides broad spectrum UV protection and helps with the white cast and skin feel that some people argue against with…zinc oxide.”
  — Maggie Stasik (03:40)

• “The manufacturer…spent over 20 million and it took them 20 years to get approval in the U.S. Consistency is key.”
  — Maggie Stasik (06:16)

• “Testing sunscreen in the US has traditionally been done with human volunteers…not inclusive…Darker skin tones aren’t going to show redness the same way a lighter skin one would.”
  — Ella Cressman (06:58)

• “Let’s make it really easy for you to just use it every day, and it’s a non-issue for the face.”
  — Ella Cressman (08:34)

• “I hope they make a spray that brings protection…that keeps me looking young, but makes me protected. And the environment. Am I putting a lot of pressure on this particular ingredient to meet my paranoia?”
  — Ella Cressman (13:41)

• “30 is what you need, that’s it. Because you’re going to be reapplying, and any number higher than that is not necessarily more protection. It’s just more chemicals.”
  — Maggie Stasik (16:02)

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Timestamps for Important Segments

• FDA Regulation & History: 01:46 – 04:48
• BEMT Overview & International Use: 03:40 – 06:16
• Sunscreen Testing Practices: 06:18 – 07:39
• Client & User Experience: 08:34 – 09:27
• Physical vs. Chemical & Environmental Debates: 12:02 – 13:49
• SPF Numbers, Reapplication, and Misconceptions: 15:22 – 16:51

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Conclusion & Takeaways

• The U.S. will soon see BEMT, a new generation sunscreen ingredient, which promises better protection, a more pleasing user experience, and potentially higher rates of client compliance.
• Regulatory differences with Europe and Japan mean innovation comes slow—and expensively—to the U.S. market.
• BEMT aims to address consumer demand for sunscreens that are stable, effective, comfortable to wear, and less likely to leave a white cast, while also possibly being a safer choice environmentally and hormonally.
• For estheticians, staying informed about ingredient innovation and testing advances is key to educating clients and making effective product recommendations.
• SPF number confusion remains prevalent; the experts agree SPF 30 with regular reapplication is typically sufficient.

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For more information, feedback, or to join the conversation, listeners are encouraged to connect via social media or by email (see show notes).

Transcript

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[Ella Cressman]

Foreign.

[Maggie Stasik]

Hello and welcome to ASCP's Estee Talk. I'm your co host Maggie Stasik, ASCP's program director.

[Ella Cressman]

And I'm Ella Cressman, licensed esthetician, big fan of the skin and content contributor for ASCP.

[Maggie Stasik]

Ella, big news for sunscreen in the US for the first time since 1999, we're getting a new active ingredient in the sunscreen world. This isn't just about chemistry. It affects how our clients experience sunscreen and how we educate them. And I want to say when I saw this stat that we haven't had a new sunscreen ingredient since 1999, that kind of blew my mind a little bit. Whoa. Yeah. So quick context. In the US sunscreens are regulated as over the counter drugs under the fda. This means that any active ingredient that claims to provide SPF protection must go through FDA review and approval before it can legally be used in a product marketed as a sunscreen. So you cannot just list a sunscreen filter as a cosmetic ingredient and start selling it for SPF claims.

[Ella Cressman]

I know, isn't that something? And every single batch has to be tested for the claim. It's complicated, but if it's an SPF 30, every recipe you create, even though the recipe stays the same, every single batch has to be tested, which is good, but not in other places like in Europe or the eu. In Japan they're regulated as cosmetics or in Japan like a quasi drug with more streamlined process. So cosmetic regulations allow the ingredient to be used for SPF claims more quickly in these areas, once it's listed on the approved ingredient list, they have like you're. We use EU standards often, but the process to get something approved is arduous or to get a product approved, it's a long, lengthy process. But once it is approved, companies have more flexibility to launch new filters that have already been evaluated internationally. So it's. Once you're in, you're good, but a lot different here.

[Maggie Stasik]

So this new ingredient or this new filter that's being introduced to the us, it's called bimotrizenol, B E M T for short. So B E M T is stable, it provides broad spectrum UV protection and it helps with the white cast and skin feel that some people argue against with things like zinc oxide, for instance. Right now, the US has 16 approved filters, but only eight are commonly used. And even fewer are considered highly effective by experts in the sunscreen world. So compare this to Europe and Japan, where formulators have over 30 filters, including options that are considered more elegant, more protective. And by elegant, I mean it feels nice going on, it has a smooth feel, it's not leaving that white cast. And it's more like a quote unquote, cosmetic.

[Ella Cressman]

Mm. A different experience completely.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

Um, I remember a 2017 study that found only 11 outta 20 US sunscreens meet EU standards. Did you hear that?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes. And I think that's so fascinating.

[Ella Cressman]

Interesting. And then another major point is the cost for FDA approval is extremely high. That's why sometimes you'll see lines that don't have an spf, because like for a single filter, it can cost tens of millions of dollars, which limits which ingredients companies bring to market.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. So to your point, hugely expensive. I have come across products on the market that are a zinc or zinc and titanium blend and they don't have an SPF rating, but they are referring to their product as a sunscreen or a sunblock.

[Ella Cressman]

Interesting.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

They got through it for now till

[Maggie Stasik]

they get caught, if you consider getting it through. Because they aren't classifying it as an spf, they aren't rating it one way or another, but they're still saying that it protects you from the sun.

[Ella Cressman]

Interesting.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes, Interesting. Right? Yeah. So BEMT is already used internationally and in some very well known over the counter brands like La Roche Posay, for instance. And these are known to be lightweight, fluid, really easy to layer under makeup. So going back to that explanation of they're considered elegant. If you can describe a product that way, the manufacturer is a German company. They have spent over 20 million and it took them 20 years to get approval in the U.S. consistency is key.

[Ella Cressman]

Just keep going and it pays off. Right?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. So we'll start seeing this product or. I'm sorry, we'll start seeing this ingredient pop up in products late 2026. So as far as testing is concerned, testing sunscreen in the US has traditionally been done with human volunteers, which I appreciate. Volunteers apply sunscreen to the skin, and then they're exposed to UV light until the skin shows reddening. I will say there's. You can anticipate there's going to be problems with this. This is measuring or intended to measure how well the sunscreen protects. But for those volunteers, potentially it's painful and ethically questionable. Also not inclusive.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah. Because darker skin tones aren't gonna show redness the same way a lighter skin one would. And also, no matter the tone, the reactivity is different person by person. So it's not a good control. Right.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

These panels, they can't test the product for everyone.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. There are newer methods. There's things like UV spectroscopy. This measures how light interacts with compounds, determine UV protection. And this method is considered objective, accurate. It can be used for all skin tones. It also allows for more consistent, reproducible testing, which could eventually improve global sunscreen standards.

[Ella Cressman]

I've watched somebody test it online, and I've watched them compare efficacy based on what's stated versus what's true. And that's. They have these little. They look like a credit card, and they swipe it on there. See? See? See? So it's. That's interesting.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. Yeah, it is interesting. There's other things to take into consideration, too, with sunscreens. That is maybe a conversation for another time, but traditionally, and I don't know if this is the case with this particular ingredient, but as soon as that chemical ingredient is exposed to UV light, it starts to break down. So generally speaking, your sunscreens are not stable, even though they're intended to protect you from UV rays. When they're exposed to UV rays, they're already breaking down. And they're also creating free radicals on the surface of your skin.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah, it's like a magnet for that.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

It's hard to know what to use. Right. So I'm excited for these. I'm excited for this particular new ingredient to come out, because for estheticians, this could mean that we have better protection, broader UV coverage, improved textures, and higher compliance, which I think is something we get that in consultations a lot. I do wear sunscreen When I go outside. So being able to put it in what, what I use as my clients is like, let's make it really easy for you to just use it every day. And it's a non issue for the face. Uh, but some of the problem is some formulations, not the ones I carry, obviously, but they can be sticky. Right. And your product can pill up or just they don't like the experience. It's not that. Would you say luxury experience or that. That they can fill. So I feel like this could bring fewer complaints about the white cast or the stickiness too.

[Maggie Stasik]

What is your feeling about the argument that, yes, I wear SPF because it's in my makeup.

[Ella Cressman]

Well, at least you got that going for you. Okay. I think that argument is. I do too, but know that I'm not outside for extended periods of time. So for me, I feel like that can be enough coverage to answer that question fully. I would want to know more about their lifestyle and such. To me, I, you know, I'm a big fan of meeting people where they are.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, I think that's smart as an esthetician, meeting people where they are, whatever works for them, whatever their lifestyle is for me. Also, I argue that's not enough. If your goals are total anti aging, get rid of the pigmentation, no more wrinkles. That's not enough.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah, I think so. I mean, I think that's fair. But again, that would be like, what's your lifestyle? What do you go outside? What's your goals? Very good point. Thanks, Maggie, for changing my mind.

[Maggie Stasik]

You're so welcome, Ella. So staying informed lets us educate clients effectively and recommend the best options. We also have a role in sharing feedback with brands, testing new products and keeping up with global trends.

[Ella Cressman]

Hold that thought. We'll be right back.

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[Ella Cressman]

Okay, here we go. Let's get back to the podcast. Here's what I want to know about this ingredient.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

Is it going to be in a spray?

[Maggie Stasik]

Oh, interesting.

[Ella Cressman]

How well does it do? Because do you.

[Maggie Stasik]

I don't even Know it will not be in a spray.

[Ella Cressman]

Really?

[Maggie Stasik]

I don't know.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay, let's play devil's advocate. You know those, like, original OG spray zinc, they sucked. Right? The ones like for your body. For. I'm going, you know, to a soccer tournament this weekend or whatever. So there's this long standing argument of physical versus chemical. Where does this one fit in there? Like in the middle.

[Maggie Stasik]

This is a chemical. There's only two physical. Zinc and titanium.

[Ella Cressman]

Not known as a hormone blocker. So good chemical alternative. So, okay, let's hypothesize that this is going to be smooth and velvety enough. Luxurious enough to go in a spray. I'm about this life because I know that there are conflicting reports between the current favorite chemicals and reef health. Environmental issues. All the gossip. Right.

[Maggie Stasik]

Are there favorite chemicals?

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah, Ava. Benzone, Oxy octinate. Those ones.

[Maggie Stasik]

You mean from like a formulator standpoint?

[Ella Cressman]

Not my favorite. Yeah. Favorite industry. They go. The go tos. Maybe favorite's the wrong word. Industry standard Consumed chemicals. Right. The ones that are in Banana Boat. The ones that are in Coppertone. The sport ones. The ones you take on vacation and hope nobody asks you if you're an esthetician. You know what I mean? Yes. I still. I know there's conflicting reports about efficacy and hormone disruption. And like you said, bringing antioxidants to the skin or free radicals to the skin. I know it. It still freaks me out. I will use it. But then I think, when I go paddleboarding in the summer, am I harming the lake that I'm getting into? You know, and so I'm not. It freaks me out. I'm excited about this new ingredient. I hope they make a spray that brings protection so I'm not aging. Cause I'm fighting real hard right now. Yeah. And then also that keeps me looking young, but makes me protected. And the environment. I just dropped a lot on you. It took me a minute to think about all that stuff. Like, am I putting a lot of pressure on this particular ingredient to be able to meet my paranoia?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. I would say to all of that, you simply should just use zinc.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh, God.

[Maggie Stasik]

I for one, love zinc products. And the white cast for me is not a problem.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah. If it's one.

[Maggie Stasik]

How dare you.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah, mine.

[Maggie Stasik]

I'm a Fitz, too.

[Ella Cressman]

Are you really? I don't.

[Maggie Stasik]

That's what I say.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay.

[Maggie Stasik]

That's what I'm telling people.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay.

[Maggie Stasik]

I am.

[Ella Cressman]

You are.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes. I'm a Fitz, too.

[Ella Cressman]

But do you apply it evenly, like as the lower fits who is incredibly Obviously visually reactive. Like, you find your zinc, you got it on all good. Oh, yeah.

[Maggie Stasik]

You mean, do I burn? I can burn, yeah. I mean, I'm not sure what you mean.

[Ella Cressman]

Do you go on vacation and use it on your body?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes.

[Ella Cressman]

But it's a zinc one.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh, good for you.

[Maggie Stasik]

But don't get me wrong. I'm also using the chemicals, and I'm

[Ella Cressman]

not worried about the water you're tripling down with. Laissez faire.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. I love the spray. It's easy to apply. The Coppertone or the Banana Boat, I use that too. I'm not worried about, is it bringing free radicals to my skin or all those things, because I am also in the sun 247 and consuming things that are also causing the free radicals.

[Ella Cressman]

Tequila.

[Maggie Stasik]

And

[Ella Cressman]

for a week, you're fine? Yeah, for a week. Couple of days.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. But let's talk for a second about SPF value.

[Ella Cressman]

So.

[Maggie Stasik]

So when you're meeting with your clients and you're saying, you know what the. It's important you apply SPF or you're going on vacation, make sure you use your SPF. Are you advising them, like, minimum 15 or minimum 30? Or do you have that conversation? Or it's, you know, what work. Use what works for you.

[Ella Cressman]

I just say 30 is fine, 30 is fine. Cause they're like, well, I'm going here, so I better get a 70. So I do shout that out. Hey, there's really not much of a difference. I think that's misleading. Yeah. It's 30, 15, 30, 40, 50, and 70. I've seen a 1 higher than that before, but really, the amount that it protects you from, the whole SPF thing is whacked.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. Misleading for the consumer. Absolutely. And. And maybe some estheticians out there are unsure as well. And I'm with you. 30 is what you need. That's it. Because you're going to be reapplying, and any number higher than that is not necessarily more protection. It's just more chemicals or it's more zinc.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah, it's just more. It's a couple more minutes.

[Maggie Stasik]

Right.

[Ella Cressman]

That's it.

[Maggie Stasik]

Right. And if you look at some of the chemicals that are used, like I was saying before, they're exposed to UV rays and they start to break down, and by the time those chemicals have broken down, you need to reapply anyway. So using, you know, this 50 or this 75 is. It doesn't matter. You're fine with the 30.

[Ella Cressman]

It's buying you five minutes. 15 minutes.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

But the point that you kept saying, which I want to just emphasize, is reapplying because you're sweating. Reapplying because you're taking a dip in the pool. Reapplying because tequila, all those things reapply is the best.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, the tequila especially wears that sunscreen right off.

[Ella Cressman]

Wears me right into bed. Love it.

[Maggie Stasik]

Listeners, we want to hear from you. What's your opinion on SPF innovation? Share with us on social media through Instagram, Facebook, or by emailing getconnectedscpskincare.com thank you for listening to ASCPSDtalk. And as always, for more information on this episode or for ways to connect with Ellen myself, or to learn more about ascp, check out the show notes.