Betwixt The Sheets: The History of Sex, Scandal & Society
Episode: History of Pubic Hair
Host: Kate Lister
Guest: Professor Jill Burke
Release Date: November 26, 2024

Introduction

In the latest episode of Betwixt The Sheets, host Kate Lister delves into a topic that is both intimate and historically rich: the history of pubic hair. Joined by Professor Jill Burke, an expert in Renaissance beauty, the episode explores how attitudes and practices surrounding pubic hair have evolved from ancient civilizations to the modern day. This comprehensive discussion uncovers the cultural, social, and political factors that have influenced perceptions and treatments of pubic hair across different eras.

Ancient Practices: Egypt and Greece

The conversation begins by examining ancient civilizations, particularly Egypt and Greece, where evidence suggests that pubic hair removal was already prevalent.

Professor Jill Burke [08:07]: "There's evidence of pubic hair removal from very ancient times. Probably ancient Egypt and certainly ancient Greece."

In Ancient Greece, pubic hair was seen as an adornment for both men and women, reflecting societal standards of beauty and hygiene. Sculptures from this period often depict well-groomed bodies, indicating that hair removal was considered fashionable.

Kate Lister [09:34]: "They look like eels. Why are they doing this?"

Middle Ages and Islamic Influence

The discussion transitions to the Middle Ages, highlighting the significant impact of Islamic bathing practices on European attitudes towards pubic hair.

Professor Jill Burke [10:05]: "When the bath plays a really important role in many different Islamic cultures, and certainly you start to get European travelers from the Middle Ages, from the 10th or 11th centuries, saying, what are they doing? These people in their baths are completely removing all their body hair for both men and women."

European practices, especially in regions like Spain influenced by Islamic culture, began adopting hair removal techniques. This cultural exchange was further propelled by the Jewish expulsion from Spain in 1492, leading to the dissemination of hair removal recipes across Europe through Italy's burgeoning printing industry.

Professor Jill Burke [11:08]: "When you get the Jewish expulsion From Spain in 1492, a lot of these women come to Italy... spreading all over Europe."

Renaissance Trends and Cultural Differences

During the Renaissance, pubic hair removal became increasingly fashionable, particularly in Italy. Italian beauty texts from the 16th century, such as Alessio Piemontese's "Book of Secrets" and Giovanni Marinella's "Ornamente", emphasize the importance of hair removal for women to maintain societal standards and appeal to male expectations.

Kate Lister [19:04]: "There's a real sense that, like, bushes, lush... the Italians and us today look at it as this kind of super smooth."

Conversely, British attitudes during the same period were markedly different. British texts often portrayed pubic hair as a symbol of natural beauty, leading to cultural bafflement among Italians and vice versa.

Professor Jill Burke [20:54]: "So this idea that you could actually have a pubic wig would be like, why in Italy?"

The Renaissance also saw the depiction of pubic hair in art evolve. Early Renaissance sculptures like Donatello’s David exhibited minimal pubic hair, reflecting the era’s aesthetic ideals. However, Northern European depictions still included noticeable pubic hair, highlighting regional differences.

Kate Lister [17:15]: "They never have pubes, do they?"

Witch Trials and the Stigmatization of Pubic Hair

A particularly dark chapter in the history of pubic hair is its association with witchcraft during the witch trials of Northern Italy and Germany in the late 15th and early 16th centuries. Accused women were subjected to extreme shaming rituals, including the shaving of their pubic hair, as a means to uncover supposed hidden amulets or marks of the devil.

Professor Jill Burke [33:03]: "There’s evidence in witch trials in northern Italy, near Lake Como in 1485, in which something like 120 women were killed."

These invasive practices served both to humiliate and degrade women, intertwining pubic hair with notions of sin and subversion.

Kate Lister [35:04]: "There's an undeniable sexual undertone to a lot of these trials across Europe."

19th Century Developments: Photography and Early Pornography

As the 19th century progressed, the advent of photography and early forms of pornography provided more concrete evidence of pubic hair removal practices. These visual records began to mirror and influence societal expectations, further embedding hair removal into mainstream culture.

Kate Lister [41:29]: "By the time you get to the Victorians... there is pubic hair removal being practiced around here too."

Despite the continued use of harmful substances like arsenic and quicklime in hair removal pastes, the practices persisted alongside emerging forms of visual media that normalized smooth pubic areas.

Modern Perspectives: Feminism and the Influence of Pornography

Moving into the modern era, the episode explores how feminist movements and the pervasive availability of Internet pornography have shaped contemporary attitudes towards pubic hair. The discussion highlights the tension between body autonomy and societal pressures, especially among younger generations.

Professor Jill Burke [45:48]: "It's completely related to the availability of Internet porn because it's normal again, it's what's normal."

The influence of pornography has standardized pubic hair removal, particularly among women, aligning with male expectations and perpetuating certain beauty ideals. However, recent trends among Gen Z suggest a shift towards embracing natural body hair, challenging longstanding norms.

Kate Lister [47:54]: "A whole classroom full of Gen Z and all the women have got hairy pits and nobody really gives."

Hair Removal Methods Throughout History

The conversation delves into various historical hair removal methods, evaluating their practicality and societal acceptance. Techniques ranged from razors and waxing to more hazardous methods involving harmful chemicals.

Professor Jill Burke [28:23]: "They used a paste made out of arsenic and quick lime."

While methods like waxing and sugaring were employed, the lack of modern safety standards made hair removal a painful and risky endeavor. The use of merkins (pubic wigs) in England is also discussed, albeit with limited historical evidence outside of British references.

Professor Jill Burke [22:10]: "A merkin is a wig, but for your pubic area."

Conclusion: The Cyclical Nature of Pubic Hair Trends

The episode concludes by reflecting on the cyclical nature of pubic hair trends throughout history. From ancient civilizations to modern times, societal attitudes towards pubic hair removal have fluctuated, influenced by cultural exchanges, political movements, and media portrayals.

Professor Jill Burke [48:08]: "It's always like all these things. It's complicated. Yeah."

Despite ongoing debates and evolving perspectives, the history of pubic hair removal remains a testament to the complex interplay between individual agency and societal expectations.

Kate Lister [48:47]: "Thank you so much for talking to me today. I thoroughly enjoyed myself."

Notable Quotes

• Professor Jill Burke [08:07]: "There's evidence of pubic hair removal from very ancient times. Probably ancient Egypt and certainly ancient Greece."

• Professor Jill Burke [10:05]: "When the bath plays a really important role in many different Islamic cultures... completely removing all their body hair for both men and women."

• Kate Lister [19:04]: "There's a real sense that, like, bushes, lush... the Italians and us today look at it as this kind of super smooth."

• Professor Jill Burke [33:03]: "There’s evidence in witch trials in northern Italy, near Lake Como in 1485, in which something like 120 women were killed."

• Professor Jill Burke [45:48]: "It's completely related to the availability of Internet porn because it's normal again, it's what's normal."

• Professor Jill Burke [48:08]: "It's always like all these things. It's complicated. Yeah."

Final Thoughts

Betwixt The Sheets successfully navigates the intricate history of pubic hair, offering listeners a nuanced understanding of how cultural, social, and political forces have shaped perceptions and practices surrounding this intimate aspect of the human body. Through engaging dialogue and expert insights, Kate Lister and Professor Jill Burke illuminate the enduring significance of pubic hair in societal norms and individual identity.

For more episodes exploring the saucier areas of history, subscribe to Betwixt The Sheets on History Hit or your preferred podcast platform.

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