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Kate Lister
Hi, I'm your host, Kate Lister. If you would like Betwixt the Sheets ad free and get early access, sign up to History Hit with a History Hit subscription. You can also watch hundreds of original documentaries with top history presenters and enjoy a new release every single week. Sign up now by visiting historyhit.com subscribe.
Eva Longoria
Do you ever wonder where your favorite foods come from?
Maite Gomez Rejon
Like what's the history behind bacon wrapped hot dogs?
Eva Longoria
Hi, I'm Eva Longoria.
Maite Gomez Rejon
Hi, I'm Maite Gomez Rejon.
Eva Longoria
Our podcast Hungry for History is back.
Maite Gomez Rejon
And this season we're taking an even.
Eva Longoria
Bigger bite out of the most delicious food and its history, saying that the.
Maite Gomez Rejon
Most popular cocktail is the margarita, followed by the mojito from Cuba and the pina colada from Puerto Rico.
Eva Longoria
Listen to Hungry for history on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts or wherever you get your podcasts.
Kate Lister
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Janet
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Janet
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Eleanor Jackson
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Eleanor Jackson
Only taxes and fees extra speeds lower above 40 gigabytes.
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Kate Lister
Hello my lovely betwixters. It's me, Kate Lister. You are listening to Betwixt the Sheets. So I hope you are in the right place, strapped in, buckled up and ready to go. But before we can go anywhere at all, I have to tell you, this is an adult podcast spoken by adults to other adults about adultery things and an adulty way covering a range of adult subjects. And you should be an adult too. Have you managed to tick all of those boxes? If there is even one that you cannot cross off your list, then we don't want you here, quite frankly. Pack up your stuff and be off with you for the rest of you on with the show. You might know this by now, betwixters, but I am a lover, a proficionado, if you will, of the scented world. All right, fine. No one's ever called me that, but I call myself that. I like perfumes, I do. I'm a proper perfume girly. Ask anyone. They'll tell you that I smell amazing. And if they don't, I'll kick them in the shins. But perfumes and scents can connect us to the past in a way that other sensory triggers just can't. Whether that's the smell of freshly cut grass taking you back to long summer days of your youth, or, as we will find out today, a perfume from 15th century Italy. You can look at historical artifacts. If you're really lucky, you might be able to pick them up. But smell just adds a different dimension to that reality. And I'm really excited to find out more about some extraordinary medieval women who and the smells that accompanied them. Let's crack on. What do you look for?
Eleanor Jackson
A man? Oh, money, of course.
Kate Lister
You're supposed to rise when an adult speaks to you. I make perfect copies of whatever my boss needs by just turning it up and pushing the button. Yes, social courtesy does make a difference.
Eleanor Jackson
Goodness.
Kate Lister
What a beautiful diamond. Goodness has nothing to do with it, dearie. Hello, and welcome back to Betwixt the Sheets, the history of sex scandal in society with me, Kate Lister. It's always worth reiterating that finding women's stories in history is a tall order. We know that there were women there, there must have been women there, but they just seem to escape the records, which is why it is extra specially exciting to speak to today's guests, Eleanor Jackson and Tasha Marks. Eleanor is the curator of the new British Library exhibition Medieval Women in Their Own Words, which features original texts about and by women from this period. I mean, they've got Joan of Arc's actual signature there that she wrote herself, crying out loud. How cool is that? And we're also joined by Tasha Marks, an artist who creates sensory experiences mainly with smells. And she's brought to life some of the smells of that period in this exhibition, which, by the way, is on until the 2nd of March, 2025. So do sniff it out if you can. This episode came in part from a listener as well. So over to Janet, all the way in Los Angeles to tell us more.
Janet
Hi, everyone.
Kate Lister
Hi, Kate, Janet.
Janet
I'm Janet from Los Angeles, California. I'm a huge fan of this podcast.
Kate Lister
I love it.
Janet
I read an article about Tasha Marks and I thought of this show. Since memory is so strongly associated with the sense of smell, it brings us closer to history. I have a strong sense of smell and I can appreciate that. I also love the idea of a sensory transportation into history and beliefs. Enjoy.
Kate Lister
Well, Janet, I couldn't agree more with you. Smell is an amazing way to travel through history, and I'm still holding out for sponsorship by one of the big perfume houses as well. But I'm also fascinated to find out more with today's guests. So without further ado, let's get sniffing. Hello, and welcome to Betwixt the Sheets. It's only Eleanor Jackson and Tasha Marks. How are you both doing?
Eleanor Jackson
Very well. Thanks. Thanks so much for. For having us on.
Kate Lister
I'm so excited to have the both of you here because, Eleanor, you are the curator of the British Library's new exhibition, Medieval Women in Their Own Words. And Tasha, you are an artist who works with senses, but in this exhibition, you're working primarily with the sense of scent.
Janet
Yes.
Kate Lister
Which seems very difficult to do, and I'm fascinated to hear more about this. But. But before we get to smells, which sounds incredible, Eleanor, can you tell us a bit about what this exhibition is about and how it came to fruition?
Eleanor Jackson
Yeah. So we're so excited for people to come and see our exhibition at the British Library. So it's about medieval women's lives in Europe between about 1100 and 1500. It's exploring their achievements, the challenges they faced, and their everyday lives right across society. And it's called Medieval Women in Their Own Words. So we have this real emphasis on women's own testimonies, because so much throughout history, women's voices have been silenced. So it was super important for us to be able to kind of put those women's voices at the center.
Kate Lister
How do you even go about doing that? Because as a historian who studies gender and sexuality, almost every project I do, I start by going, I'm going to put women's voices into it. Or I'm going to put sex worker voices into it. I'm going to do that. And then I go back to the records. I'm like, no, I'm not. No, I'm not. It's just. It's not there. They've been written out. So what kind of texts or exhibits or sources are you guys working with?
Eleanor Jackson
Well, we basically started by doing a lot of research in the library's collections. Actually, the genesis of this exhibition was a digitization project that we did a few years ago on Medieval and Renaissance women, because we realized that we had these fascinating histories in our collection, which, you know, we hadn't actually done that much with in the past. And we wanted to make them more accessible to people. And as part of that, we did loads of scoping in the collections, just going through old catalog records, going through the storage areas to find all these things, some of them well known, but some of them incredibly obscure, that we wanted to highlight. And as we were doing that, we realized just how rich those sources are, and we realized that it absolutely deserved an exhibition. But you're right that it is really hard to find women's testimonies. And especially the lower down the social scale you go, we really wanted it to be an exhibition that showed women's lives right across society. But kind of the more those women were discriminated against then, the harder it was to find their testimonies. So it was a real challenge, but I think we've managed it. You know, it was really exciting to come across all these little known documents. I mean, for example, one fascinating document is the petition of Maria Moriana, which we have on loan from the National Archives. So this is a petition by probably a woman of color in London in the 15th century. And, you know, if you ask some people, they will say that medieval Europe was really white and there weren't women of color in medieval England, but there were. And this document shows it. And what's amazing is she's actually petitioning for her freedom. So her master, who was an Italian merchant working in England, was trying to sell her and she was refusing to be sold. And she was actually right because English law did not recognize slavery at this time. Not only was she refusing to be sold, but she knew her rights and she was standing up for them. So you can find these rare little glimpses of these women's lives and their voices.
Kate Lister
If you look for them, the whole thing looks incredible. Tasha, how did you get involved in this project and what is it about scent and smell that you have brought to this and how on earth? I mean, I've just said that, like, finding women's voices is hard. Finding the smell of women's voices must be nigh on impossible.
Janet
I think I've always thought about history in a sort of multi sensory way. So for me, telling people stories through smell or taste or sound is sort of how I like to communicate the past. And so when I was approached about this project, I mean, as I said, like, the amazing resources that you guys had provided and gone through, and like, I was able to come in, you know, relatively late in the game and be given these amazing inspirational texts and background and information that had sort of been gone through and gathered as part of this project. So I had an excellent medieval sort of cosmetics manuscript to take inspiration from and all these sort of olfactory notions from these medieval saints. So it's actually a really rich multisensory history. And so presenting it as a smell was really joyful to do.
Kate Lister
How do you do that? So I'm just trying to, like, picture what the exhibition looks like. So with like the woman who is petitioning about her own enslavement, Maria Moriana. Thank you. How would you go about capturing that smell? So if you've got like the document there that this is what she's petitioning, how do you work with that? I mean, is it like a bottle of perfume that someone can smell or like, what is it?
Janet
So, obviously we're working with very sensitive collection as well. So, you know, a lot of these conversations also involved conservation and what they were happy to put in the space. So I've worked with scent in heritage spaces for the last decade, so I'm very experienced with working within these delicate collections. So I tend to go for, like, much more lowi approach. You're not going to have like a. Some big machine or an atomizer that's going to like spray things into the environment. That's just not going to be okay. Instead, it's quite a sculptural approach, thinking, how can we make this scent visible? How can we make it interactive? So for the section on private lives where we have the two medieval cosmetics, you've got this sort of stylized medieval cosmetics table. So you sort of arrive at the table. There's a medieval comb, which is a natural historical example. You've got a mirror which has been sort of recreated to sort of have that aesthetic. And then you have two 3D printed vessels. And within those vessels, the smell sort of very likely emanates from them. So as you sort of put your nose over the opening of those vessels, you can smell a 12th century hair perfume and a medieval breath freshener. So you're having a really intimate, you know, up close and personal experience.
Kate Lister
Oh, I love that.
Eleanor Jackson
Yeah. So that particular scent display that Tasha was talking about, that is based on a manuscript of medieval women's cosmetics that we have on display in the exhibition. It originates in southern Italy in about the 12th century, and it contains all these incredible recipes for, you know, makeup, perfume, cleansing products. I think there's a bit of a perception that in the Middle Ages people had poor hygiene People didn't wash.
Kate Lister
Yes, there is. People think that and it's not true, is it? Tell us what is in this book.
Eleanor Jackson
It is not true. We really wanted to kind of change people's misconceptions about medieval women in the Middle Ages more broadly. So, yeah, this is a fascinating book of all these incredible cosmetic recipes for women. So one of the challenges we had when we were internally interpreting these kind of objects is that there's such rich stories inside them. But when it's a manuscript that is in a language people don't understand, this one's in Latin and a script that people can't read, most people. How do you bring out those stories? Which is why we went to Tasha, because using something like scent is a way to really bring that to life for people and kind of make it immersive. So we were so excited and lucky to be able to work with Tasha on that.
Kate Lister
And when you're looking at a book like that, and is that the D or Natu Murielum mulierum. Fluent Latin, like a native cake. Well done. When you're, like, looking at a script like that, a text like that, as the curator, how do you go about deciding which part of that you want to pull out and give to Tasha to, say, do something with it? Because there's loads in there.
Eleanor Jackson
In that particular case, I went through it and pulled out recipes that I thought seemed particularly smelly, shall we say? So not all of them necessarily suggested strong scent. So I just came up with a sort of long list of smelly recipes and sent it to Tasha and let her decide what she thought would work best. And you came up with some options for us, didn't you?
Janet
We had a guided smelling session where we all discussed our sort of favourites and which ones felt the most evocative. And also my background's in food history. So similarly to any kind of recipe that you'd get for a dish, if you get recipe for a scent, obviously these older books, there's no measurements, there's no indication of how much of each thing you should put in. So they were written for a knowledgeable audience or recorded for an audience that would be familiar with this sort of thing. I equally have to sort of use my experience and guess the measurements and balance of a lot of these ingredients.
Kate Lister
I have an image of you like a mad scientist in a lab, just with, like, with some notes and you're just trying of see what works and what smells good. Is it a bit like that?
Janet
It's half and a half. So I partnered for this project also with a couple of different fragrance producers. So I work a lot with a very large fragrance company called CPL Aromas, another company called Aroma prime, and I basically have access to their materials and their library. So I get all these materials at my disposal, whereas my home is a bit more like a little crazy lab, as you say. It's a little cabinet of curiosity that I work from at home, sort of thing to do the first notes and to sort of write the scent brief, to figure out actually what story we want to tell. That's a lot of what I do really, in my role is that, you know, I am a scent designer, but I'm also a historian by background. So my job is really to translate between the curator and the fragrance producers or the perfumers to really get exactly what we want.
Kate Lister
Let's talk about some of the women that are featured in your exhibition, because some of them, people might recognize their names, and there are others that they may have never heard of before, and there are some that their fame is kind of limited to hardcore academic circles, like Christine de Pizn, for example. She is a name that is often. People might not have heard that so much, but. Eleanor, can you tell us a little bit about who this woman was?
Eleanor Jackson
Yeah. So we have all kinds of women in the exhibition, as you say, some who are quite well known, some who are incredibly obscure. And Christine de Pizan is one of our heroes. She is known as the first professional woman author in Europe, which is to say, say she made her living through writing books. So there were many other women authors in Europe, but most of them were writing for different reasons. They weren't necessarily making a living from it. Christine was able to do that because she was able to get patronage from the French royal court in the early 15th century to allow her to write for a living. She was very prolific, very successful author. And the other thing she's known for is as a kind of proto feminist. So she writes about women's issues and she really argues for women's moral and intellectual equality with men, which was not necessarily the mainstream view at the time.
Kate Lister
No, it wasn't. It wasn't. And one of her pieces of writing that I thought was really interesting, she challenges this quite surprising medieval narrative that women were more highly sexed than men, that women were the horny, slutty ones. And she's right about it going, no, that's not true. It's men. They're all just wastrels and scallywags. And us reading it going, yeah, you go, christine you go, yeah, absolutely. Tasha, how do you go about capturing a smell for somebody like Christine de Pizan?
Janet
She wasn't the one that made the shortlist, unfortunately, so we'll have to do that in the next one to figure out what she smelled like, what she'd smell like.
Kate Lister
Fury, rage. I think.
Eleanor Jackson
I think she'd smell quite nice. I think she'd smell nice, yeah, absolutely. I mean, we have a really, really important manuscript of the works of Christine de Pizan at the British Library, which is on display in the exhibition, which was made under Christine's own personal supervision for presentation to Isabeau of Bavaria, Queen of France. So it's really unusual to have a medieval manuscript that actually comes directly from the author. Usually there are copies of copies and so on. So this one we know, Christine actually held it in her hands. She directed its entire production. It's beautifully illuminated with pictures of Christine in the book. And we know that, that because she basically ordered it to be made, we know that that's how she wanted to be seen by the world.
Kate Lister
You must just have like complete nerd outs all the time. I wouldn't be able to work around this stuff and keeping myself composed and together and be like, right, this is the actual book this woman worked on. And I have to try and somehow keep my cool and go about this. Like, that would just blow my mind. Another one you've got in your collection that I was hugely impressed with is the work of Marjorie Kemp. Yeah, we love Marjorie.
Eleanor Jackson
We do, yeah. So that's another incredible British Library treasure. So the book of Marjorie Kemp, the earliest autobiography in English by the mystic Margery Kemp from King's Lynn. And so she was someone who. She came from a kind of middle class background, she got married, she had 14 children. But she also. Spiritual visions. And when she was about 40, she decided to devote her life to religion and she spent the rest of her life going on pilgrimages all over Europe to the Holy Land. And she is known for her kind of emotional outbursts. She.
Kate Lister
Nice way of putting it, Eleanor.
Eleanor Jackson
She's very outspoken. She gets into a lot of trouble wherever she goes. And she was absolutely determined to record her life because she was illiterate, so she couldn't write herself, so she needed a scribe to write it down for her. And she went around various scribes trying to get them to write her life. And, you know, she's turned down multiple times, but she persisted. And the result was the book of Margery Kemp. And it survives in only one manuscript, which is at the British Library. And it only was discovered in the 1930s when a family in an English country house were looking for some ping pong balls. And they looked in the back of an old cupboard and there were no ping pong balls, but there were a load of dusty old books. And I thought, this is a load of rubbish. Let's throw it on the bonfire. But luckily someone said, no, wait, let's get it checked out. And it turned out to be the only surviving copy of the book of Margery Kemp. So, yeah, that's such a special item. We came so close to losing it.
Janet
And we did do a Margery Kemp smell.
Eleanor Jackson
We did.
Kate Lister
Hit me with it. What would you go for for Margery Kemp? Because as Eleanor said, she was known for her outburst. She was known for screaming hyster and people getting very like, oh, my God, what is happening with this? How do you even approach that from a scent point of view?
Janet
Well, also, as well as, you know, her enthusiastic visions that she often described them as being quite multisensory. So she describes smells and, you know, during her spiritual encounters. So actually, Marjorie Kemp was the one who sort of inspired our sort of heaven smell in the spiritual section because she talks about this intensely sweet smell, like, sweeter smell than anything earthly that she had ever smelt before. Before. And I found that quite interesting as a sort of a view of heaven that is sort of otherworldly and strange, was quite interesting, which we get from her text. So the smell of heaven and the smell that Margery Kemp inspired is this very sweet, sickly smell. It's almost artificial and synthetic, which people might not think of when they think of heaven. But I think when you think about that in relation to her vision, it's like, well, that's a really interesting story to tell.
Kate Lister
Did you go for vanilla? That's what I would have gone for.
Janet
There's some sort of vanilla notes in there. But also, like, it is quite strawberry, synthetic strawberry smell.
Eleanor Jackson
It reminds me of, like, the smell of scented gel pens from the 90s.
Janet
And also that's in the spiritual section of the exhibition. And it's in this amazing display that the exhibition designers sort of worked with me and the 3D designers to create, where when you open the hatch to sort of smell the smell, it triggers a series of projections through this sort of medieval window. So when you open the sort of heavenly smell, there's sort of water and bright light and it's quite ethereal. And then when you open the hell smell, this sort of smoke and brimstone and eyes and it's all quite threatening.
Kate Lister
Did Margaery write about that? The smell of hell, or was she strictly limited to heavenly smells?
Janet
Yeah, that one came from Julian of Norwich, actually. So she talks about this sort of experience of greeting the devil and his fetid breath and hands around her neck and the smoky smell. So we've gone for this quite bodily, quite dark, mushy sort of smell there. It's quite fire and brimstone, but not too sulfurous. Quite like bodily, let's say.
Kate Lister
How do you contain a smell like that in the exhibition? Because if you've gone for. Right, the smell of hell is going to be body odor and a bit of brimstone and a bit of sulfur. Like that's vile. How do you not have people screaming out of the room, just retching?
Janet
Yeah, that was one of the things. Definitely during our early smell sessions, I said to the team, I was like, we got to make it bad, but not so bad that people are retching. You know, there's a fine line there. But also it's next to the heaven smell, so you don't want to smell. That's really going to fill the space or be too overpower. So the methods that we use are a dry diffusion method, so it doesn't go too far. And we've got the hatches. So everything about the design is made to be really impactful and really audience focused, but also thinking about, we don't want this to spread around the exhibition.
Kate Lister
We touched on Julian of Norwich there. She's another one that. I don't know if her and Margery ever met and hung out. That would be an interesting conversation. They did.
Eleanor Jackson
They absolutely did.
Kate Lister
Okay, tell me about Julian of Norwich.
Eleanor Jackson
Julian of Norwich is another of our medieval visionaries and another really important set of manuscripts to do with her in the exhibition. So Julian of Norwich also came from Norfolk, and when she was about 30, she became extremely ill. She thought she was going to die. And whilst she was ill, she experienced a series of spiritual visions. She then got better and she wrote down her visions. And that is a text called the Revelations of Divine Love. It is the first work in English that we know to be authored by a woman. She then became an anchoress. So that is someone who locks themselves in a cell attached to a church to spend the rest of their life contemplating God. While she was in her cell, she spent her time meditating on her visions. And after about 20 years, she wrote a revised version of the Revelations of Divine Love in which she goes into much more detail about their spiritual meaning. These two versions. The first one is called the short version. The second one is called the long version. In the exhibition we have the only surviving copy of the short version. The long version only survives in four 17th and 18th century manuscripts that were copied by English nuns in France from a medieval manuscript that is now lost. And we have one of those later copies in the exhibition as well. So again, the. This is a text that came so, so close to being completely lost to us. Yeah, so we have these amazing visionaries in the exhibition. But again, these are manuscripts that are not necessarily visually striking. They have amazing stories, but they look quite ordinary just to look at them. So we really wanted to find a way to bring out those stories and to show just how rich these women's visions were, which is why again, we kind of went to Tasha because we wanted to visualize and also capt capture the multi sensory nature of the spiritual visions they experienced.
Kate Lister
I'll be back with Eleanor and Tasha after this short break.
Eva Longoria
Do you ever wonder where your favorite foods come from?
Maite Gomez Rejon
Like, what's the history behind bacon wrapped hot dogs?
Eva Longoria
Hi, I'm Eva Longoria.
Maite Gomez Rejon
Hi, I'm Maite Gomez Rejon.
Eva Longoria
Our podcast Hungry for History is back.
Maite Gomez Rejon
And this season we're taking an even.
Eva Longoria
Bigger bite out of the most delicious food and its history, seeing that the.
Maite Gomez Rejon
Most popular cocktail is the margarita, followed by the mojito from Cuba and the pina colas from Puerto.
Eva Longoria
Listen to Hungry for history on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts or wherever you get your podcasts.
Kate Lister
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Tasha Marks
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Eleanor Jackson
Steve Madden.
Kate Lister
Yes, please.
Eleanor Jackson
It's perfect.
Kate Lister
Did we just score the greatest gifts of all time?
Janet
Yeah.
Tasha Marks
Head to your Nordstrom rack store to score great brands, great prices, the greatest gifts of all time.
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Kate Lister
I wonder what's going on with these visions. Like, I've heard lots of different theories about them, that it's like some kind of manic episode or it's a breakdown or, like, what do you think is going on for these women with these stories?
Eleanor Jackson
Well, there's a real tendency, I think, nowadays to try and, like, pathologize these women, and there's all kinds of theories about, like, oh, yeah, Marjorie Kemp was psychotic and all this kind of thing, which, you know, maybe there was something medical going on. But I'm kind of reluctant to diagnose people from the past based on literary text. And in a way, I think it's better to kind of take them on their own terms, look at them the way they look at themselves and the way they present themselves. And they absolutely believe that their visions are from God. They believe they've got this holy calling, and I'm happy to kind of take them at their own word.
Kate Lister
It's not just religious visionaries and holy women that are in this exhibition, although they are all incredible and amazing. You've also managed to find sort of the voices of everyday women, working women. Like, is it the Littoral Psalter? Can you tell me about that?
Eleanor Jackson
Yeah. So the Littoral Psalter is an incredible manuscript. It is a beautiful illuminated manuscript. It is quite famous for its marginalia. So if you follow any medieval accounts on Twitter, you have probably seen marginalia. Yeah, you've probably seen some of the quite wacky marginalia from the Luttrell Psalter. So it's kind of famous for two things. One are these marginal images of everyday life, which are shown in really very vivid detail. And the other are for these really whimsical, wacky monsters. In the Case of Medieval Women exhibition, it's in for the scenes of everyday life because they kind of show rural life in medieval England. And they include this series of agricultural scenes. And it's really striking that these scenes, so many of them there are women agricultural workers at the center of all the activities. So the page we have it open on in the exhibition shows the harvest, bringing in the harvest, which was the absolute most important time of the agricultural year. And we have three women who are shown reaping barley. And it's very vivid. You have one of them who's kind of rubbing her back, like, you can see that her back is aching from the labor. And it's this amazing attestation of medieval female agricultural labour. And we actually paired it with a farmer's account roll from Stebbing in Essex, because obviously, the Luttrell sorter, it's an artistic representation and you can kind of say, oh, to what extent does it really represent the reality of medieval life? But this farmer's account roll backs up the picture that it presents us with because it records the names of the workers who were paid to bring in the harvest on that farm in the 15th century. And about a third of the workers are women, and it also records the wages they were paid. And it's really striking to see that there was already a gender pay gap. So the men get paid four pence a day and the women get paid three pence a day for doing the exact same labor.
Kate Lister
I mean, that's just incredible, isn't it? Because when we think about the medieval period, and I say think, like, when we have, like a cursing thought about it, people seem to assume that everyone in the medieval period smelled terrible. Not. And the other thing is that we tend to assume that women were all fainting damsels, locked away in a tower somewhere, waiting for a knight to rescue them. That isn't true. And this exhibition really reveals that women. I want to be careful. I don't say they had more agency because it's still the medieval period. It's not great.
Eleanor Jackson
Right.
Kate Lister
But they have a surprising amount of agency.
Eleanor Jackson
Yeah, that's something we really wanted to show because we did audience research when we were working on this exhibition and it came through really clearly that when we asked people what they imagined medieval women's lives were like, it was all about basically drudgery and oppression. And housework and cooking, and it was like a very bleak picture. So we really wanted to kind of turn that notion on its head and absolutely. Medieval women faced a lot of challenges, and we cover a lot of those in the exhibition. But we also really wanted to show how many diverse roles medieval women were able to take in the Middle Ages, which actually, in some ways, it was a better time for women than the early modern period in terms of some of the different professions they could get involved with. And also to show their creativity as authors, as artists, their power in politics, their involvement in just about every area of society.
Kate Lister
Was that something that played into how you wanted to capture this in your work, Tasha? This idea that the exhibition is. It's not just about showcasing, it's also about surprising people, perhaps with the agency of this women. Is that something that you wanted to play with in your work?
Janet
Well, certainly playing around or trying to investigate medieval notions of women versus contemporary notions, because definitely with the two cosmetics, what was interesting about our final selection is that the hair perfume smells quite contemporary. You'd be surprised that.
Kate Lister
What does it smell like? Tell me I'm a proper perfume girly. So tell me, what does it smell like?
Janet
You've got rose and clove and nutmeg. There's also some wild card things in there like watercress and galangal and musk. So it's very floral and deep and spiced. It's very. I mean, incredibly pleasant for a start. Most people, if they like that kind of scent, would buy that today.
Eleanor Jackson
I would, yeah.
Kate Lister
Yeah.
Janet
I think the host half really liked it.
Kate Lister
Would you wear that, like, go out, out and just. You'd be happy to smell like that. Just out and about?
Eleanor Jackson
Yeah, for sure. I've smelled that scent and I think it's gorgeous. I'd wear that definitely.
Janet
Yeah. People really, really like that smell. And then the breath freshener is a little bit different. So that has laurel leaves and musk. So you've got this quite herbal. Obviously, musk is from the musk land of a deer. So you've got this very animalistic note. We don't use that anymore. We use a synthetic version as well. For a style start, we're thinking about interpretations of history. We're not trying to tell a literal retelling because we don't have the same ingredients, we don't know the exact measurements. But what we're trying to do is take an impression of history. So I think having the hair perfume, which was quite familiar and very pleasant, and having the breath freshener next to it was maybe a little bit more challenging and a little bit more out there. I think that was also part of why we chose those two to have side by side as well.
Eleanor Jackson
Well, because we always think of breath freshener as a minty scent nowadays. Right?
Kate Lister
Yeah. If someone said, I've got a musk harvested from the. The gland of a deer to freshen the breath, I think I'd be like, you all right? Actually, I'm fine.
Janet
Yeah. The text that went with that was about putting it under your tongue as well, so you wouldn't say brush your teeth with it. And it was quite. Was it something that was sort of sexual thing of like before?
Eleanor Jackson
Yeah, it's.
Janet
It says, put it under her tongue before bad breath is perceived in her. Before anything happens.
Eleanor Jackson
Well, yeah, it's quite bad betwixt the sheets. Appropriate because that particular recipe for the breath freshener, it actually says you should put this under your tongue before you have to have sexual intercourse. And that is the phrasing they use. So one of the interesting things about this set of cosmetic recipes is it came from Southern Italy in the 12th century, and that was a time when there were a lot of Muslim populations living in Sicily and elsewhere in Southern Europe. And there's a lot of that influence that you can see in these recipes. So that particular recipe says that they learned that recipe from a Muslim woman who had used it to help many different people.
Kate Lister
I'll be back with Eleanor and Tasha after this short break.
Eva Longoria
Do you ever wonder where your favorite foods come from?
Maite Gomez Rejon
Like, what's the history behind bacon wrapped hot dogs?
Eva Longoria
Hi, I'm Eva Longoria.
Maite Gomez Rejon
Hi, I'm Maite Gomez Rejon.
Eva Longoria
Our podcast, Hungry for History is back.
Maite Gomez Rejon
And this season we're taking an even.
Eva Longoria
Bigger bite out of the most delicious food and its history, seeing that the.
Maite Gomez Rejon
Most popular cocktail is the Margherita, followed by the mojito from Cuba and the pina colada from Puerto Rico.
Janet
Rico.
Eva Longoria
Listen to Hungry for history on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts or wherever you get your podcasts.
Kate Lister
So good, so good, so good.
Tasha Marks
Just in and so good. Thousands of winter deals are at Nordstrom Rack stores now. And that means thousands of fresh reasons to rack, because we get the latest.
Kate Lister
Trends for way less.
Eleanor Jackson
Because I've been looking for these because.
Tasha Marks
The best deals go fast, save big with up to 60% off. Sam Edelman, Sorrell Free People, Cole Hahn and more. Cold weather fines. Great brands, great prices. That's why you rack.
Kate Lister
Can we talk about one of my most favorite medieval women Gwerfil McCain from Wales. She's. I just would love to go for a pint with her. Can you tell us a bit about who this woman is and what she was doing?
Eleanor Jackson
Guerphil Meken was actually one of the medieval women in the exhibition who I had not heard of before researching this exhibition and I was absolutely delighted to learn about. So she was a medieval Welsh poet. So medieval Wales had a very strong tradition of poetry. Mostly it was quite male dominated. Guerfil Meken is the only medieval Welsh female poet for whom a substantial body of work survives. She was working in the 15th century, she wrote about a whole number of topics. But her most famous poem and which we have on display in the exhibition is her poem to the Vagina, which is this incredible kind of, of sex, positive female body, positive, fun, humorous poem, an ode to the vagina. And it's quite surprising. I think often we see the Middle Ages through a kind of Victorian lens of prudishness and I think maybe people will be surprised to realize how kind of earthy medieval literature can be.
Kate Lister
It can be incredibly earthy. I mean there's like the French bawdy tradition. They'll tell you stories that will honestly strip the enamel from your teeth. When you listen to me, like, my God, Queerfeld, she stands out. I'm not aware of any other medieval woman who was writing. She wasn't just erotic verses, we should say. If she was here today, she'd probably be saying, I wrote other stuff too. But that's the one she's most remembered for. But I think she's the only woman who writes about this and also writes about it, as you say, in a very positive. Her poem about the vagina is. It's like a telling off to poets, isn't it? To male poets.
Eleanor Jackson
Right. So she kind of starts by saying these male poets, they write these poems about women in which they talk about all the parts of their body but they don't talk about the most important one. And then she goes on to counter that omission by waxing lyrical about the vagina.
Kate Lister
And she finishes it by saying, lovely bush, God bless it, or words to that effect, which is just hilarious.
Eleanor Jackson
Yes. There's a fantastic modern translation by Katie Grammage which I would recommend you to check out.
Kate Lister
Tasha, you didn't have to do a scent for this one, did you?
Janet
I didn't, but it sounds fun.
Kate Lister
She's incredible because she kind of punches that prudish notion of medieval women. You have got some very high born women in your Exhibition. Of course you do like queens. Isabella of France, who I can't imagine would be reading such smut that Guerphel Macken was producing, or maybe she was, but tell us a bit about Isabella of France.
Eleanor Jackson
She was a French princess who married Edward ii, King of England, which was very unfortunate for her. They did not have a very happy marriage. He was known for having his favourites, possible lovers, and when he started to favour Hugh Despenser towards the latter end of his reign, he and Isabella became completely estranged and. And she left him, she went to France and she there mustered support. There were a lot of people who were very unhappy with Edward's reign. He was not a popular king. She then was able to raise enough funds through marrying her son, the heir to the kingdom, to Philippa of Hainault. So a princess from the Lowlands. And she was able to then invade England and, and depose her husband, as you do, along with her lover, Roger Mortimer. And she then sets up her son as the new king and basically rules with him as a puppet king for the next few years. Unfortunately, she was not a very popular ruler either. And in the exhibition we have a variety of items relating to her, including some wonderful satirical badges from the British Museum that we have on loan, which are made by her enemies making fun of her during the period when she was effectively ruling England.
Kate Lister
God, they're brave, aren't they? I wouldn't have made fun of Isabella, my God.
Eleanor Jackson
But they're wonderfully kind of smutty badgers. But also, I mean, they're kind of funny, but they're also kind of poignant in that they show you just kind of what women were up against when they were trying to claim political authority in this period. So one of them shows her on a boat with the helm of the boat is like a phallus and she's got another phallus on her arm. So it's kind of presenting her as just this kind of sex obsessed woman who's kind of steering England out of control. That's making an allusion to her affair with Roger Mortimer.
Kate Lister
Typical. It's so lazy that, isn't it? But that's been the go to insult since Day Dot, as far as I can work out. It's like, oh, she's a massive slag.
Eleanor Jackson
Yeah, absolutely. And you know, it just some of these, these stories, they really resonate today, like the kinds of challenges that women in politics face and the kind of personal attacks they have to put up with. You know, nothing has changed, actually, when.
Kate Lister
You look at it and then the narrative threading through. Yeah, women are still judged much, much more harshly. Honestly, I could just sit here and just keep listing off medieval women for both of you to talk about, but I'm not allowed to do that because you're both very busy people and you've got to get back to this exhibition. But as a final question, and I'm going to ask you the one. I bet you've been asked it before and you hate it, but I'm going to do it anyway. What's your favorite, either woman or exhibition that you've got in this collection? I know it's a bit, you know, like making you choose a child, but just the both of you. What was. Do you have a favorite? Something that really spoke to you?
Janet
Yeah, I've got to pick the medieval cosmetics manuscript that I was given because it just felt it's such a special thing that a. That sort of information was given such credence to be written down in Latin and put in such a marvellous object, but that, you know, we can have access to that so many years later, it really felt like an amazing insight to the past. I felt very privileged to also see that in real life. I love the tactic. Not that I touched it, but like to see. See a book like that and to really get to interact with it in a multisensory way, both in terms of what I got to make from it, but also so to see it as an object, it just has such an allure to it and I'm really excited that it exists.
Kate Lister
Did it surprise you at all, like, some of the ingredients or scents or things that they were using?
Janet
I mean, I was familiar with some of it, but it's just to have a resource like that where you've got this firsthand knowledge and to see it written down is incredible. And actually, one of the smells that didn't make into the exhibition was a face whitening cream. And that was an interesting one to have in there, but the tone of it was too similar to the Head, their perfume, which is why I didn't make the final cut. But getting to recreate some of those recipes from history, to discuss it as a team, to really engage with the past in that way from having that resource. I mean, the people who wrote that down probably never thought that was what it would lead to. So I kind of love that.
Kate Lister
Yeah, no, they probably didn't. That's amazing. Eleanor, if you've got to choose one as your baby, which one you going for?
Eleanor Jackson
Very difficult choice, but I just love, love the letter of Joan of Arc. So, yeah, we have this amazing loan from the town archives of Riom in France of an original letter of Joan of Arc. And it's the first time it's left France and indeed the first time it's left Rio since it was sent to the citizens of Riom by Joan herself in the 15th century. In this letter, she's asking them to send her military aid. It's while she's still on her military campaign. She's going to besiege a town and she wants extra supplies of gunpowder, men. She was illiterate. She came from a peasant background, so she couldn't write, so she had to dictate this letter to a scribe. But she did learn to sign her own signature. And this letter contains the earliest instance of Joan of Arc's signature. I mean, she's just such an inspirational person. And to kind of have that immediate physical link to her is just. Yeah, it makes the hairs on the back of your neck stand up.
Kate Lister
Have you touched it? As the curator, are you allowed to touch it?
Eleanor Jackson
I did not touch it, but I did see it coming out of its box and being placed on the wall by the curator from Riom and our technicians at the British Library. And to see that was a real privilege.
Kate Lister
That's mind blowing, isn't it? Joan of Arc's signature. Oh, my God. You have both been fascinating to talk to. And if people want to go to this exhibition, where can they find information? How long is it running for?
Eleanor Jackson
It's Medieval Women in Their Own Words. It' the British Library in St. Pancras until 2nd March 2025. You can find more information on the British Library website and on our Twitter now xlmedieval and on the British Library's Medieval Manuscripts blog as well. We've also got a great events program, so you should check that out too.
Kate Lister
And do you guys have a social media presence? Because I have no doubt people want to look you guys up as well.
Janet
Yeah, you can find me at avmcuriosities on Instagram and Twitter X all that lot.
Kate Lister
Guys, thank you so much for taking the time away from the exhibition to talk to us today. You have both been fascinating and it sounds incredible.
Eleanor Jackson
Thank you for having us on. It's been a pleasure.
Janet
Yeah, loved it.
Kate Lister
Thank you for listening and thank you so much to Eleanor and Tasha for joining me. And if you like what you heard, please don't forget to like, review and follow along wherever it is that you get your podcast. Podcasts. If you want us to explore a subject. Or maybe you just wanted to say hi. Or if you are one of the major perfumers and want to sponsor me or just send me free perfume, then you can contact us@betwixtoryhit.com We've got episodes on the sixth and final installment of our limited series, the Secret Lives of the Six Wives with none other than Catherine Parr herself. This podcast was edited by Matt Petey and produced by Stuart Beckwith. The senior producer was Charlotte Long. Join me again Betwixt the Sheets the History of Sex Scandal in Society, A podcast by History Hit. This podcast contains music from Epidemic Sound.
Eva Longoria
Do you ever wonder where your favorite foods come from?
Maite Gomez Rejon
Like, what's the history behind bacon wrapped hot dogs?
Eva Longoria
Hi, I'm Eva Longoria.
Maite Gomez Rejon
Hi, I'm Maite Gomez Rejon.
Eva Longoria
Our podcast Hungry for History is back.
Maite Gomez Rejon
And this season we're taking an even.
Eva Longoria
Bigger bite out of the most delicious food and its history, saying that the.
Maite Gomez Rejon
Most popular cocktail is the margarita, followed by the mojito from Cuba and the pina colada from Puerto Rico.
Eva Longoria
Listen to Hungry for history on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts or wherever you get your podcasts.
Kate Lister
So good, so good, so good.
Tasha Marks
Just in and so good. Thousands of winter deals are in Nordstrom rack stores now and that means thousands of fresh reasons to rack because we.
Kate Lister
Get the latest trends for way less.
Eleanor Jackson
Because I've been looking for these because.
Tasha Marks
The best deals go fast, save big with up to 60% off Sam Edelman, Sorrell, Free People, Cole Hahn and more cold weather fines. Great brands, great prices. That's why you rac.
Betwixt The Sheets: The History of Sex, Scandal & Society
Episode: How Did People Smell in Medieval Times?
Release Date: December 17, 2024
In this captivating episode of Betwixt The Sheets: The History of Sex, Scandal & Society, host Kate Lister delves into the intriguing intersection of scent and history during the medieval period. The episode features insightful conversations with Eleanor Jackson, curator of the British Library's exhibition "Medieval Women in Their Own Words", and Tasha Marks, an artist specializing in sensory experiences through scent.
Eleanor Jackson introduces the primary focus of the episode by discussing the British Library’s latest exhibition, "Medieval Women in Their Own Words". This exhibition spans Europe from 1100 to 1500, highlighting the achievements, challenges, and everyday lives of women across various social strata. Jackson emphasizes the exhibition's commitment to showcasing women's own testimonies, addressing the historical silencing of female voices.
Eleanor Jackson [06:13]: "We have this real emphasis on women's own testimonies, because so much throughout history, women's voices have been silenced."
A standout feature of the exhibition is the petition of Maria Moriana, a woman of color in 15th-century London, who bravely petitions for her freedom from an Italian merchant attempting to sell her. Jackson highlights the rarity and significance of such documents, debunking the misconception that medieval Europe lacked diversity.
Eleanor Jackson [07:51]: "Maria Moriana was actually petitioning for her freedom. Not only was she refusing to be sold, but she knew her rights and was standing up for them."
Tasha Marks explains her role in the exhibition, focusing on creating authentic scents based on medieval manuscripts. Her work transforms textual descriptions into immersive olfactory experiences, allowing visitors to "smell" history.
Tasha Marks [10:26]: "Presenting it as a smell was really joyful to do."
Marks describes her meticulous process of selecting and recreating scents, such as a 12th-century hair perfume and a medieval breath freshener, using a combination of historical research and modern fragrance techniques.
A central artifact in the exhibition is a 12th-century Southern Italian cosmetics manuscript, containing recipes for makeup, perfumes, and cleansing products. Jackson addresses the common myth that medieval people had poor hygiene, using the manuscript to illustrate sophisticated grooming practices among women of the time.
Eleanor Jackson [13:14]: "We really wanted to kind of change people's misconceptions about medieval women in the Middle Ages more broadly."
The episode spotlights several notable women featured in the exhibition:
Christine de Pizan: Recognized as the first professional woman author in Europe, Christine advocated for women's moral and intellectual equality with men, challenging prevalent misogynistic narratives.
Eleanor Jackson [16:50]: "Christine was able to get patronage from the French royal court... she argues for women's moral and intellectual equality with men."
Margery Kemp: Author of the earliest autobiography in English, Kemp documented her spiritual visions and tumultuous life, showcasing the personal resilience of medieval women.
Eleanor Jackson [20:17]: "Margery Kemp was the one who inspired our sort of heaven smell in the spiritual section because she talks about this intensely sweet smell."
Julian of Norwich: A revered mystic, Julian authored "Revelations of Divine Love", chronicling her spiritual experiences and visions, which are uniquely captured in the exhibition.
Eleanor Jackson [24:32]: "Julian of Norwich... wrote down her visions. It is the first work in English that we know to be authored by a woman."
The Luttrell Psalter, renowned for its vivid marginalia depicting everyday medieval life, is featured prominently. Jackson discusses the manuscript’s detailed scenes of women engaged in agricultural work, supported by contemporaneous farmer's account rolls revealing a gender pay gap.
Eleanor Jackson [31:17]: "About a third of the workers are women, and it also records the wages they were paid. There was already a gender pay gap."
Lister and her guests explore how the exhibition challenges modern perceptions of medieval women as passive and oppressed. Instead, it highlights their diverse roles, creativity, and substantial agency within societal constructs of the time.
Eleanor Jackson [33:56]: "We really wanted to show how many diverse roles medieval women were able to take... their creativity as authors, as artists, their power in politics."
The episode delves into the stories of Gwerfil Meken, a medieval Welsh poet known for her unabashedly erotic poetry celebrating female anatomy, and Isabella of France, a politically active queen whose rule and personal life were subjects of contemporary satire.
Gwerfil Meken: Author of a humorous and sex-positive poem dedicated to the vagina, challenging male-dominated poetic traditions.
Eleanor Jackson [39:36]: "Gwerphil Meken... wrote a poem to the vagina... a fun, humorous poem, an ode to the vagina."
Isabella of France: Her political maneuvering to depose her husband, Edward II, and the subsequent satirical badges mocking her highlight the intersection of gender and power.
Eleanor Jackson [42:26]: "These satirical badges... show just kind of what women were up against when they were trying to claim political authority."
In a heartfelt exchange, Jackson and Marks share their personal favorite exhibits:
Tasha Marks praises the medieval cosmetics manuscript for its deep historical insights and the opportunity to create immersive multisensory experiences.
Tasha Marks [45:33]: "The medieval cosmetics manuscript... feels like an amazing insight to the past."
Eleanor Jackson expresses admiration for an original letter from Joan of Arc, the only surviving copy outside of France, signifying a direct link to the historical figure.
Eleanor Jackson [46:59]: "Seeing Joan of Arc's original letter... makes the hairs on the back of your neck stand up."
Kate Lister wraps up the episode by encouraging listeners to visit the "Medieval Women in Their Own Words" exhibition at the British Library, which runs until March 2, 2025. She highlights the innovative use of scent to enhance the historical narrative, making history a multi-sensory experience.
Kate Lister [48:29]: "You should check that out too."
Jackson provides additional resources for those interested in delving deeper, including the British Library’s website and social media channels.
Scent as a Historical Tool: Tasha Marks’ work demonstrates how scent can provide a tangible connection to the past, enriching the understanding of historical contexts.
Women's Agency in Medieval Times: The exhibition underscores the varied and significant roles women played in medieval society, challenging long-held stereotypes of passivity and oppression.
Preservation of Women's Voices: Highlighting rare documents like Maria Moriana’s petition and original manuscripts from figures like Christine de Pizan and Joan of Arc emphasizes the importance of preserving and celebrating women's historical narratives.
Intersection of Culture and Scent: The incorporation of scents derived from medieval recipes and texts offers a unique, immersive way to engage with and understand historical experiences.
For those interested in experiencing this unique exhibition, visit the British Library in St. Pancras or explore additional details on their website and social media platforms. Follow Eleanor Jackson on Instagram and Twitter at @xlmedieval for updates and insights into medieval manuscripts.
This episode of Betwixt The Sheets masterfully intertwines the sensory allure of scent with the rich tapestry of medieval women's lives, offering listeners a novel and engaging perspective on history.