"What Made You Ugly In Medieval Times?" – Episode Summary
Betwixt The Sheets: The History of Sex, Scandal & Society
Host: Kate Lister
Guest: Eleanor Jarniger, Historian and Co-host of Gone Medieval
Release Date: May 9, 2025
In this engaging episode, host Kate Lister explores the intricate and often harsh beauty standards of the medieval period with esteemed historian Eleanor Jarniger. Together, they uncover how perceptions of beauty and ugliness were deeply intertwined with social status, morality, and cultural norms during the Middle Ages.
1. Introduction to Medieval Beauty Standards
Kate sets the stage by contrasting the often grim stereotypes of medieval life with the nuanced beauty standards that existed. Contrary to popular belief, beauty was not entirely neglected; there were specific ideals that defined attractiveness.
Notable Quote:
Eleanor Jarniger [05:07]: "These standards within Europe and, you know, more particularly kind of in the Mediterranean, literal are pretty much ossified for a really long time."
2. Beauty and Morality: The Divine Connection
The discussion delves into the medieval intertwining of beauty with moral virtue. Beauty was often seen as a reflection of inner goodness, linking physical appearance to spiritual purity.
Notable Quote:
Eleanor Jarniger [10:07]:
"If you're beautiful, then you're just a good person."
Kate humorously relates this to modern "pretty privilege," emphasizing that the association between beauty and virtue has longstanding roots.
3. The Role of Makeup and Physical Appearance
Medieval makeup practices were minimal and heavily regulated. Excessive use of makeup was frowned upon and even criminalized, as it was seen as deceptive and morally corrupting.
Notable Quote:
Eleanor Jarniger [17:54]:
"If you find out that a sex worker was using makeup, that's fraud."
This strict regulation reflects the societal expectation for women to appear naturally beautiful without artificial enhancements.
4. Skincare Routines in the Middle Ages
Kate and Eleanor explore historical skincare practices, highlighting that medieval women were proactive about maintaining their appearance despite limited resources.
Notable Quote:
Eleanor Jarniger [35:22]:
"She leaves us, like, toner recipes... Take the barley, boil it up, put the water on your skin."
They discuss recipes from historical texts like the Trotula, which provided guidelines for skincare using natural ingredients such as barley and honey.
5. Body Types: Fat and Thin
The ideal female body in medieval times favored a pear shape—small breasts and a fuller waist and hips—symbolizing fertility and wealth. This contrasted with the modern obsession with the hourglass figure.
Notable Quote:
Eleanor Jarniger [43:54]:
"You want tiny little tits... and a luscious little pot belly."
Kate draws parallels to contemporary beauty standards, noting the cyclical nature of body type preferences.
6. Race and Beauty in the Medieval Era
Contrary to the misconception that medieval Europe was homogeneous, there was notable racial diversity. Eleanor references art like Hieronymus Bosch's The Garden of Earthly Delights to illustrate the inclusion of Black individuals, highlighting that beauty standards also encompassed multicultural traits.
Notable Quote:
Eleanor Jarniger [46:51]:
"A really great place to go see hot black people is one of my favorite paintings of all time, which is Hieronymus Bosch's The Garden of Earthly Delights."
7. Male Beauty Standards
While female beauty standards were more rigid, medieval men also adhered to specific ideals. A desirable medieval man was muscular yet slightly soft, indicating both strength and affluence. Cleanliness and fashionable attire, such as tights, were also important.
Notable Quote:
Eleanor Jarniger [30:42]:
"Medieval male hotties are a little bit muscular, but a little bit of meat on the bones."
8. Ugliness and Moral Judgment
Ugliness in the medieval period was often equated with moral failings or sin, particularly for those with physical disfigurements or diseases like leprosy. This association justified social ostracization and stigmatization.
Notable Quote:
Eleanor Jarniger [42:12]:
"If you're not hot, then you must be evil."
Kate and Eleanor critique this harsh judgment, acknowledging the cruelty of such beliefs.
9. Hygiene and Dental Care
Contrary to the "dirty Middle Ages" myth, medieval people placed a high value on hygiene. They practiced regular dental care using tools like licorice roots and had fewer cavities due to limited sugar consumption.
Notable Quote:
Kate Lister [39:02]:
"Talk about teeth a lot."
10. Conclusion: The Legacy of Medieval Beauty Standards
Kate and Eleanor wrap up by reflecting on how medieval beauty standards have influenced contemporary perceptions of beauty and morality. They highlight the persistent link between appearance and social value, noting that while some standards have evolved, the underlying pressures remain.
Notable Quote:
Eleanor Jarniger [46:08]:
"We change whatever it is we think is hot to be whatever is the most difficult or expensive thing to acquire."
Key Takeaways
- Beauty as Social Currency: Pale skin and specific body types signified wealth and status.
- Morality Linked to Appearance: Physical beauty was often seen as a reflection of inner virtue, while ugliness was unjustly associated with moral failings.
- Regulated Enhancements: Excessive makeup was frowned upon and even criminalized, emphasizing natural beauty.
- Racial Diversity in Beauty: Medieval Europe was more racially diverse than commonly depicted, with inclusive beauty standards.
- Male Standards: Medieval men were expected to be muscular yet slightly soft, maintaining cleanliness and fashionable attire.
- Hygiene Practices: Contrary to myths, medieval people valued hygiene and had effective dental care practices.
- Enduring Pressures: Many medieval beauty standards and societal pressures continue to echo in modern times.
This episode provides a nuanced understanding of medieval beauty standards, challenging modern misconceptions and highlighting the deep-rooted connections between appearance, morality, and social standing.