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The following podcast is a dear media production.
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Welcome to Breaking Beauty the podcast.
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All about the breakthrough people, products and moments in beauty.
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We're your hosts, Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins.
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Hello and welcome back to Breaking Beauty Podcast. I'm your co host, Carlene Higgins and I'm here with my other co host, Jill Dunn.
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Hey, everyone and thank you for joining us on this fine Wednesday. We are two longtime magazine beauty editors turned beauty podcasters. We're in your feed each and every Wednesday. And Carlene, I feel like the people that we get to talk to on the show, like 450 episodes into nine years. Yes, we get to talk to the most iconic people in the industry. So that could be Chris McMillan for hair, Dr. Shereen Idris as a dermatologist, makeup by Mario. And we have an iconic person with us today.
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Yes, we have none other than esthetician to the stars, Joanna Check. Welcome to the podcast.
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Thank you for having me.
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Of course, of course.
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So Joanna first joined the podcast back in 2022 where she helped us cultivate big skin energy for that year. And in today's episode, we're going to be asking her for the unfiltered truth about skin care's hot topics.
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And if you're not familiar, Joanna is dubbed as fashion's favorite facialist. She has a huge list of a list clientele and just some of the ones that we can name include Kim Kardashian, Haley Bieber, Cara Delevingne. And Joanna has been an esthetician for more than four decades. So she really knows what she's talking about. And her mantra really is all about a long term, holistic approach versus the quick short fix. Although she does look love Tik Tok and she's good on social media.
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Joanna divides her time between New York, Los Angeles and Dallas. I was fortunate enough to have a facial last time I was here in New York and I was getting compliments for weeks. It, it's definitely very distinctive from other facials that I've had.
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I went to the Joanna Check atelier in Beverly Hills. Is it Beverly Hills?
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Yes, it is.
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Yeah. And it's it. I was snatched to the gods. It was every single modality that was you that could be used was used on my face. And trust me, I needed it. And I agreed. It's like a different level.
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Yes.
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You're like, oh, I get why the A listers. Yeah.
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It's not just like massaging and the famous slapping.
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Yeah.
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It's. It's more than that. So let's give you a little Teaser of what you're going to hear in today's episode. We're going to be covering everything from the truths about summer proofing your skin and tips for dealing with the downsides of retinol and whether or not she thinks that supplements are worth it. And don't worry, every single product that we mention is listed over on our website @breaking beauty podcast.com.
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okay, so we're going to dive in, Joanna. We're heading into warmer weather now. Any day now.
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It's going to be there tomorrow, apparently.
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So should we be taking kind of an inventory of our skincare routine when we're changing seasons, like the products we're using and how we're using them?
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Maybe in the summertime during the. You want a little lighter moisturizer versus balm that I recommend for the wintertime to prevent broken capillaries. It's not really about all of a sudden vitamin A, K more needed than vitamin C or so on. And that kind of. After over 40 years doing it. I don't believe in summer creams, nighttime creams, daytime creams. I love seasonal approach, but because of the consistency of the products because. But also deciding based on the lifestyle of a client because everybody needs very different approach. I would recommend I will be the one who has zero estrogen in my body using the balm during the summer. And it will not look too greasy, it will not look too shiny. It's going to be glowing and welcome any glow. So not particular things. But I will have further advices regarding, you know, how to probably protect your skin from stronger uva, uvb. That's going to be important. I think we do need a little sun exposure. That's very important for many factors in our system and so on. Of course, the stimulation of Vimna diagnostic important for the brain, important for the bones, very important for cardiovascular system. Vaimna D stimulates nitric oxide that's produced in a lining of our veins and that prevents many cardiovascular diseases. I know that's gonna be the weirdest thing what I will say right now. There are proven studies that people with some sun exposure they have less heart diseases. Ever since about 25 years ago when we came up with SPF 100, with SPF umbrellas, with SPF bathing suits and SPF everything. They were actually tracking statistics that against 1 melanoma they are 8 heart diseases.
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Really?
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Yes. There were studies done by someone from Harvard I have the name of, I may follow up with it. But they were warnings how and when to do it. We have smartphones that we can check the level of UV on the phone. If it's UV 2 or below, it's okay to step out and don't run. But if it's above UV2, then we do need protection. I think we still should protect our face, neck and decollete because that's our vanity. And we can get for 10 minutes sun on our arms. And I will talk a little bit in connection with Vimna A and later on and so on. But I believe in a little exposure. Of course, they are those times of the day. Dr. Des Fernandez, my one beauty hero and the most brilliant man, he suggests three minutes at noon.
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Interesting.
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Waiting for the. Just getting pink and running away from there. But three minutes. We are talking about three minutes. We're not talking about lying there. I have to say if I go to work at 8am it's seven minutes walking distance and I'm 10 hours behind the closed doors. I will admit, and I know that that's not going to be a popular statement, but that's when I don't have SPF on my face from 8am until 6:30pm I really don't.
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Yeah.
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And have you ever had spirited conversations with dermatologists on this topic?
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Very much so with my own dermatologist who is professor of dermatology in medical school. This is someone with over 40 years experience and who teaches it. And I loved that fact that we were in agreement with comparable amount of years of expertise. He said, I don't believe in SPFs indoors and they don't need to be in that 100. I think I would be very comfortable with SPF 30 if I'm longer than 40 minutes with sun exposure. But it's important. So I always recommend SPF. But starting at 6am, 10 hours in the office and so on, that might be a little exaggeration. It's business. It's tremendous business, tremendous money. But there are other things very necessary that will prevent us from skin cancer. Not just SPF there, spf. It's not enough.
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I used to also think that wearing sunscreen indoors is over blowing. I was like, this is just getting silly now. But what I would say and I do think there's. There's some just common sense to some of these things. I think that we analyze so much because when I work from home, I sit in my front window and I get beautiful sun on one side of my face and it's so warm and cozy. I have to fight with my dog for that chair, but I can feel the warmth on my face. And my face will start to go pink. And so I know from that if I'm sitting in that chair, I should be wearing sunscreen.
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You should. You should.
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Yeah, absolutely.
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But if I'm sitting 10ft the other way, where I don't have direct sun on me, I don't believe that I need to be wearing sunscreen.
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If you are in your cubicle and on the computer and you don't see a daylight. Absolutely not. I'm in the dimmed light rooms for 10 hours. Absolutely not. But there is a famous truck driver face that we all know that left side. If we are in countries where the steering wheel is on the left side, they compare and they give us that face looking different because that. That there is sun exposure to the. And even sometimes more reflection. So, of course, I mean, we use common sense.
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Exactly. I completely agree with that. Now, would you say, and you can answer this or not to some people, that they only need to wear sunscreen at the top of a mountain?
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I think we need it more often.
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Okay.
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On top of the mountain. That's. That's almost. That could be the most strongest sun, even if we have cloudy day. But I would say on the bottom of the mountain and on the beach and on daily basis, if you spend time outdoors. Exactly what we just repeated, you definitely need.
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If I'm walking around SoHo all afternoon, I'm gonna be.
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I do my SPF 30.
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Yes.
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Yes. And I'm very comfortable with that. Sa.
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Today's episode is brought to you in part by Cowboy Colostrum. So if you've been hearing about Colostrum in your friend circles, people are taking it as supplements to feel better, and you're not sure what it's all about. Let me tell you. Colostrum essentially comes from mother's milk. It is known to improve gut health, which helps to improve everything else, really. Immunity, hair growth, skin clarity, stronger nails, energy, reduce bloating. And this is something that people are using all over because they can really see and feel a difference. Now let's talk about Cowboy Colostrum. Cowboy Colostrum offers the highest quality bovine that's cow, by the way, Colostrum available in the US and unlike other brands, Cowboy Colostrum is true. First day whole Colostrum rich in bioactives like immunoglobulins and growth factors. And don't worry, Cowboy Colostrum only collects the surplus Colostrum after baby calves have had their fill. No calves have been harmed in the making of Cowboy Colostrum. And it's not Processed, it's not stripped down. Their colostrum is whole. It's full fat and high in protein for ultimate nutrient density, making it the highest quality bovine colostrum you can buy right now. And Cowboy is easy to drink. It's made with those delicious natural ingredients. There's no artificial flavors. They use real freeze dried strawberries, not artificial flavors there either. And you just add a scoop of there. There's chocolate, Madagascar vanilla, matcha strawberry into your coffee or smoothie and that's just going to help you feel great the entire day. And not only does Cowboy colostrum help that stability in your gut, but the peptides and growth factors help to make your skin and hair look amazing as well. So for a limited time, our listeners are getting 25 off their entire order. You just head to cowboycolostrum.com Beauty and use code BEAUTY at checkout. That's 25 off when you use code BEAUTY@cowboycollastrum.com Beauty.
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Hey, this is Sammy Clark. And this is Sammy Spalter. We are best friends, co founders of our wellness platform form and now hopefully your new favorite podcast host with our new podcast podcast Transform. We started Transform because we are constantly having all these big live chats. So we thought it was time to bring the conversations to the mic for you to join in. Knowing we can all relate to the forming the best version of ourselves, we will be chatting it up from everything from self love, health and wellness relationships, owning a business and all of the other hills and valleys that is this big beautiful life. Tune in every week wherever you listen to your podcast.
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See you soon.
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We have been talking so much about hyperpigmentation and it's so challenging to treat. Get rid of what's been the most dramatic improvement that you've seen with someone who's come in and maybe they have a lot of pigmentation and and then like the after you almost couldn't believe
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it, we actually offered this beautiful treatment biomodulation with 5 million micro needles that we massage the cream with. With those millions of micro needles we got to different level of it used to be Korean product that clients were plugging needles from the face. This needles that we massage, they are made out of spongella.
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Oh, this is liquid microneedling.
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Yes. And I use the company from Greece and I'm in love with melts in your skin, creates micro channeling and that it speeds up cellular turnover to seven days and that's what I had the best results with. I would say Vimna C but that's very, very Gentle way. It's almost more preventive and great results with Vimna A. And also as a phenomenal prevention the way how our DNA acts and so on. Some chemical pills. Yes, they are very helpful. So hyperpigmentation do like post inflammation which is post breakouts and so on. Or post some scarring that's easy to remove when you see it under the microscope. It's very tiny plate hormonal liver spots, aging process post sun exposure. These are like deep penetrating needles. They going to through every layer of the skin. So it depends on hyperpigmentation. So more like superficial versus like versus very deep. People who have tendencies they need to also avoid heat. So it's not just uva, uvb. There is such a thing like heat induced hyperpigmentation. Not a fan of hot glasses then for those people. Some people can. I can do it. I only can't do it because of my hypertension. I get a headache because of my high blood pressure in hot classes, bcram yoga or so on. They're phenomenal for very different reasons. But I know there's only. I will say it. You choose your face or your ass. You know, just. I mean you knew that there's going to be no filter with Joanna.
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That's right. That's right.
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I mean if you're on my Instagram, there is no filter. Yes.
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I love it.
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I haven't been canceled yet.
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But you know, liquid microneedling, it's. It's nice to be reassured by you because I experienced it. I have mild rosacea and so I was very concerned. But you tell me.
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I had the best results with quite reactive skins. I have stage one of rosacea. I. This is the best thing that I discovered.
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Okay.
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Yes.
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Okay.
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But you need to be properly prepared. I prepare clients with vitamin A before that. So skin is already, already stronger and more resilient. Epidermis, it's thickening a little bit. So I don't just attack client coming for the first time. We have conversations because they are four treatments every two weeks. 36 hours of a little downtime. Or maybe when you wash your face, you feel like you washing with cactus when you touch your skin. So I always create the worst case scenario for a client. So they are nicely surprised and I like that kind of approach.
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How much in advance would you get them on the vitamin A?
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Six weeks.
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Okay.
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Six weeks would be fine if they could use on daily basis. And they are forms of a. That you can use on daily basis.
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Yes, yes. This is. This is the next level stuff, guys. Like we're going to get your skin trained with vitamin A for six weeks before liquid microneedling.
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Before plastic surgeries.
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Yeah.
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Yes. We have many patients that we prep for plastic surgeries and we treat after with lymphatic drainage and so on.
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Some people see a trainer to like run a marathon. They see you before they get the facelift.
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I highly recommend that healing process. It's just, there's not even comparison. The client that I just left before coming to see you ladies, that was post plastic surgery treatment and she looks phenomenal. Eight weeks later she was coming for lymphatic drainage. Today we were a little braver. Nobody would ever say that eight weeks later she had lower facelift. Yeah.
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I do want to ask you, and this was something you brought up when we were chatting before about the difference between skin condition versus skin types. Because this is going to drive really your skincare routine. So walk us through that and how you talk to your clients.
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I've heard about all different amounts of skin. Skin types, what I was taught back in Poland in my school and where I was doing my pre med studies. I know about dry skin, oily skin, normal to dry. Normal to oily. And combination. Five skin types. And each one of them has its characteristic. The biggest, the closest to dry skin. It's going to be usually thinner skin with not very noticeable pores. That's. That's the. And it will not be ever shiny. Oily skin, usually larger pores because we have sebum secretion. Right. And so on. And that resurfaces quicker. Normal to dry. The most normal skin with tendencies to looking dry and also still smaller pores. Maybe T zone, it's a little oily and the sides are drier. Normal to oily. T zone, oily with tendencies to. But tendencies to oiliness, not being oily and kind of that combination skin. It's the most typical, that it's always T zone, larger, larger pores in a T zone, smaller pores. That's what I know. And then skin conditions. We all might have dry skin, but you may not have Kalinda dehydrated skin. I do have dry and dehydrated. I could have oily skin but also dehydrated. That's happening already on the surface. You could have oily skin with rosacea. You have dry skin with rosacea. Rosacea is conditioned already. You have oily skin, but it's coperous skin, which means skin with broken capillaries. Dry skin which coperas. Skin, which is broken capillaries. So those are Conditions? Yes.
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So what's, what's the takeaway with that? When you kind of explain that to your clients, Are you saying then, okay, we're going to treat the condition first and then think about your skin type or what do you do?
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We approach condition only.
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Oh, I see.
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Absolutely. I can't change skin type.
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Right?
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That's what you are born with.
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Yes.
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And. And even though we have so much more, we can do so much more with genetic situation. When I started my studies over 40 years ago, genetics was 70% the way how we feel, look, and so on. Then 10 years later, 50% the way how we look, all of a sudden genetics was only 30% and the recent studies of Belgium doctors showed it's 7 to 9%. That's how much our lifestyle, what we do, can change how we feel and look. So it's a lot in our hands, a lot of homework to do. But so anyhow, I approach only skin conditions. Hyperpigmentation is a skin condition. You could be dry, you could be oily and still have hyperpigmentation.
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Okay, that's a good point.
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Yeah. What is the one piece of advice that people are taking from their friends that might actually be harming their skin?
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Just do what I do. And in the meantime, I'm a gardener and I am a computer technician. We have very different lifestyles. I'm on the plane nonstop and I never been on a plane. Also different level of hydration, different approach. So our professions, our lifestyles, all those things make such a difference. How do we react to the treatment done at home or done professionally or so on. So don't do what your girlfriend does. I really, I really, I know that social media could be phenomenal for many people and current generations leaves on it. Try to reach to professionals, experts. Yes.
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Yeah, I feel like that is the thing. When I go out to dinner with my girlfriends, it's just yap, yap, yap. I'm using this, I'm using that. Your skin looks amazing. Okay, send me the link.
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Yeah.
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That is the conversation.
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And I see and that's. I told you girls before this. I said I can't stand a small talk. Nobody wants to discuss mathematics with me.
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So it doesn't matter if it's go, Nicks, go, go Nicks, go.
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Yes, yes.
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Yeah, no, that's. I was just.
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Do what your girlfriend does. And I'm talking, you know, we are talking about skin, but this is not just vanity. I'm talking about 2 square meters when it's flattene 3 kilo weight. Approximately. And you know, the skin is not considered anymore the largest organ. They are talking about connective tissue because for instance, connective tissue besides tissue between muscles and skin, muscles and bone, our blood is connective tissue. So they approach it differently.
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Okay, so we're not talking about fascia and fascia. Yeah, yeah.
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Yes, but, but so it's more of it than our skin.
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Oh, interesting. Interesting, yes. And what about a skin care trend that has you all bothered these days? What would that be? Let's get the hot day.
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I think I'm just bothered. I try not. Please don't believe in trends in a. Try not to some of them turn into goodness. But I would wait 12 to 18 years until we can have scientific years.
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Years or months?
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Years. Three years. You still cannot claim, you know, that this is scientific. FDA approved versus FDA clarified all those little words that we are using. What's good, what's not completely good yet and so on. So beef tallow with honey. Beef tallow on the face. Probably my grandmother who lost and her six children during the war. Maybe they were eating it and using as a protection because they were thrown out from their houses during the war in Poland. So. Yes, but I think we got a little farther than putting beef tallow on our face. Eat it. It's so delicious. With great sourdough and a little salt. Great Vaimna Cayenne stem cells in any cream or serum. Doctors even think about stem cells a little bit anecdotal. Even those re injected from our own plasma. They say this is 5050 situation. We are not certain if this is a brain that's working or those stem cells. Actually in Canada they do the best job because they always try to get the stem cells from your bone because you have the biggest amount of stem cells. So much bigger than. I mean trillions of them in the bone versus in our blood. So any stem cells from the bone, you have a greater chance to re inject something alive to your skin or maybe to your joint if it's for medical reasons. So they are not even certain about stem cells re injected. Forget about apple serum with the stem cells. I always give this example. Please enjoy the apple and throw out the serum because it's really. It's not alive.
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It doesn't matter if it was made in Switzerland or not.
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Does not Japan, Switzerland, as much as I love Geneva. But no, does not matter. Exosomes the same story. They're a little easier to store, but then there is a little more danger because there is no control what they are connecting and what they are messengers and messengers of what are they saying? What are they saying from cell to cell? And is the cell healthy or not?
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Exactly.
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So this is another thing. I don't know. Just remind me because I just don't like trends. Trends in fashion are phenomenal. Trends in makeup. I can wash my face and it's great. My husband hates me in a drop crotch pants. You look like you are three feet tall. I'm like, I'm not much taller but I can take those pants off if he's going to be satisfied, you know. But so fashion love trends. Even haircuts, the hair will grow back. Makeups. But be careful with experimenting with the skincare. I think it's, I mean I love that organ. That organ has so many responsibilities. And it's not because I'm an esthetician. I was first an athlete. I was in a pre med. I love human's body. I feel that I understand it, you know.
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Yes.
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Sa.
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Today's episode is brought to you in part by Vivier. Okay, so you've probably heard of this concept with skincare when you're using a really active ingredient that you want to start with a really low kind of dose of that active and then as your skin acclimatizes, you work your way up to a stronger concentration. We often hear this with retinol, not so much about vitamin C, but vitamin C is just as data backed and just as as important as an ingredient in your routine. So I have found the brand that allows me as a sensitive skin person to start out low and then build my way up. And it's Vivier. They're actually a Canadian company, which is awesome. Vivier is a pharmaceutical grade skincare brand known for its science backed, clinically proven formulations and it's designed to deliver real visible results. So this is the formula that I'm using. It's called the Radiance Serum by Vivier. It's 8% vitamin C, arbutin and it also has resource and all in it. Now they have about six to eight different formulas. They have a 10 vitamin C at 15 going all the way up to 30%. And this ingredient is such a staple in skin care because vitamin C is known to be the most powerful antioxidant that helps brighten the skin, support collagen production and protect against environmental stressors like pollution and UV exposure. So as beauty editors, we've often learned that, you know, retinol is one of the most crucial ingredients and so is vitamin C. And what sets Vivier apart is the form of vitamin C that they use. It's L ascorbic acid. USP is known to be the purest and most potent form available, also one of the hardest to stabilize. So Vivier has addressed this with their proprietary IDS delivery system, which helps maintain stability and allows for deeper and more effective absorption into the skin. I just love that I can start low and slow and work my way up without having that sensitivity that I have noticed with other brands. If you want to try it, visit Vivier Skin.com and use code BEAUTY15 at checkout to receive 15 off your purchase. That's V I V-I-E-R-S-K-I-N.com use code BEAUTY15 for 15 off your purchase. Vivia Skin.com pausing to shout out Quints
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they're one of our show partners this week. Everybody is talking about quints these days. Why? Because the products are so affordable and the quality is great. The fabrics feel elevated, the fits are flattering and everything just works without overthinking it. So that's why if you want to update your wardrobe for spring, check out Quint. They have premium materials like 100 European linen, organic cotton and ultra soft denim. Plus they have lightweight linen pants, dresses and tops that start at just $30. All of the styles are effortless and they are easy to wear on repeat. I feel like you can build a very easy, timeless capsule wardrobe with quints that you can wear time and again. I personally just bought the 100% European linen duvet cover. It has these very smart stripes on it. I just love how it looks. It looks designer, honest and it's really soft and everything at Quint is priced 50 to 80% less than similar brands. So refresh your everyday with luxury you'll actually use. Head to quint.com Breaking Beauty for free shipping on your order and 365 day returns. Now available in Canada too. That's Q-U I N C E.com Breaking Beauty for free shipping and 365 day returns. Now available In Canada too. Quint.com Breaking Beauty we'll link to the this offer in our show notes and on our website. Now back to the show. If you read something and you're like that seems like it's where do you go and check the source? Do you do you read medical studies or what do you do?
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I I do. I'm actually in touch with Edinburgh with medical school in Scotland. So that's, that's the letters that I read. They approached me a little bit with exosomes but we were having discussions back and forth for three years. I said no, even though they were testing. And I had that feeling. And I feel like I was a little maybe right. Knowing what they are. So that's what I do. I talk tones to Dr. Des Fernandez. I read all his books. To me, that's my kind of bible. If you would see my nightstand, I do have my little Christian symbol that makes probably my dad in heaven happy and my mom in Poland. And you know, it's just, it's a, it makes me feel good. And then I have my Lima lasers and, and my other bible. I mean that's, that's like, that's I,
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I, It's a vitamin A book.
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Everyone that I, I, I could do
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just some light reading before.
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Yes. And a vagus nerve, you know, that's, yes, that's okay.
A
That's a whole other topic of conversation.
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Yes.
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Wow. Okay. So we now know there's a Lima laser on your bedstand. I want to start getting into the skincare routine and some of the truths about that. If someone only had the energy to do their skin care properly once in a day, morning or night, what's more important?
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My day starts at night.
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Okay.
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That's literally how I say my day start. My 24 hours start at night. I always give an example or a baby. We bathe them at night, we put all the body oils, we feed them, we read half page of a book and we put them to sleep and they sleep like babies. Right? I wish that would happen to me. At 62, I don't sleep anymore. But preparing your skin and your whole body, your brain, everything for moment of relaxation and rejuvenation, that's the most important moment. And it does not take a long time. It's rinsing your day off. That's my. Don't bring the streets to the sheets. You would not invite anybody, even your best girlfriend. Sit with your jeans in my bed. And then I'm going to go there. No. Just no. So rinse it. I mean, this is it. We invest hundreds of thousands of dollars the way how we look and feel and in the meantime we concentrate on a morning shower. To me it doesn't make much sense, but prepping for the nighttime, rinsing your body off, you don't need to spend tons of time. If you need another shower in the morning, then you can do bubbles and whatever else you want. Rinse, then apply your body routine from the neck down and then your face routine from the nipples up. And that could be Very quick routine. What I strongly believe in a proper cleanser. Proper cleanser. Not the names of the companies, just consistency of a cleanser. If you wear makeup, maybe use my face wipes not to mess up your white towel. And then use a cleanser or maybe oily or balmy cleanser to remove the makeup and then rinse it off with nice foamy cleanser. So cleanser. I believe in strong the improper PH of the skin. So there is a toner with pH 5.5. Slightly acidic to keep it. I think your skin will be. Efficacy of products applied after will be increased if you have proper ph. My one and only and main form of ingredients, serum cream. It's vitamin A. So form of retinoid that you use and then moisturizer. What. What brings you comfort for me again, day or night, is the BO happens to be my own balm. But the most important it's proper ph. And then right after that, vitamin A. And that's how I treat my body also with vitamin A. Oh, wow.
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Head to toe.
C
Head to toe. Head to toe. Yeah.
B
What's the vitamin A on the body?
C
There is environ.
B
That's one.
C
And I've been lately using this pomade and retinoid. And what is amazing about it, because. Because for my skin condition and also for my skin that it's used to vitamin A I did not have to have every other night or every so often or so on. I can use every night. And these are the moments that I actually can occasionally skip my own bum.
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Oh, my gosh.
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For everybody that's listening that's not picking up this convo. Joanne has been testing Carlene's product, her retinol.
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At the moment, it's not testing anymore.
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All this is using amazing.
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Including my team.
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Oh, my gosh.
C
They are very, very.
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Look at this.
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Oh, my gosh. I am. And you might need these tissues.
B
You might need this.
C
I would not talk about it if I would not feel this way. You know, I just wouldn't mention, you
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know, that I'm so thrilled. So we're talking about Cassatt La Pamade retinoid skin ointment, which I developed with a cosmetic chemistry. And it's very different because it's a balm with retinoid in it. And that's very unique in the market.
C
That's a little bit like you beauty did the balm with spf. This is exactly the same for someone who does not like 17 steps. And I'm allergic to 17 steps. I would not do it. I just would Never do it. I'm a three to four steps person. That's why when I hear, oh, my God, Joan, I'm exhausted at night coming back from work. Stand under the shower, put your sweats and then concentrate on your supper already when you are all done, you don't need to keep it to the last minute. Yes. Because then you might be exhausted by then. Yeah, yeah.
A
And by the way, so the la Pomade has 200,000 international units.
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I know, I asked you that question.
A
Yes, I remember that.
C
But we can increase. We can increase by layering it.
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Okay.
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Just us. Simply by layering it.
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By layering it with 200,000.
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200 international.
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200 international units. Got it? I think you had said 200,000.
A
Yeah. It's a different way of measuring.
B
Understood, Understood. Yeah, got it. Okay.
A
International.
B
But what are you putting on the body for the vitamin A?
C
I put Ace body oil and thermal lotion by Environ as well. That is Also Environment My Dr. Des Fernandez and Cape Town. And I'm just, just Okay. I am not into skincare brands. I'm into products.
B
I love that.
C
I think every brand has hero. Yeah, I agree. And the way how Dr. Des Fernandez and how long he's been studying Vimna A, the way how he introduced us to it, that opened the pathway to all of us using it and not being worried about vitamin A destroying skins.
A
Right. Is he the founder of Environ?
C
Yes.
A
Okay.
C
Yes.
A
Okay. That's so putting that together now. I know that so many estheticians use Environ and really rely on it heavily.
C
It's phenomenal. My very favorite part of it, it's the different forms of MNA that we can slowly introduce for 20 years old or for someone 50 years old, but with very reactive skin. And they are just mentally scared that A will do something wrong to them. Because there is this thing that depends. If you put retinoic acid, which is prescription vitamin A, tretinoin, it does create reaction. It always creates reaction.
A
Absolutely.
C
And you get only the same percentage. Only retinoic acid, by the way, works on our cellular level. Retinyl, retinyl, palmitate, retinol and so on. They need to be converted into retinoic acid in order to really work.
A
Yes.
C
But retinoic acid does not necessarily belong on the surface of the skin.
A
Okay.
C
Yeah.
A
Because that's. So you don't. You don't like tretinoin.
C
I don't love prescription vitamin A because I've seen a lot of irritation. But they are really. You get results without Irritation without being worried if it's sunny, if it's winter, if it's summer. The idea is to use vitamin A on daily basis. That's the most important vitamin in our healthy body, in our healthy skin.
A
Yeah.
C
Really, this is something that keeps us, that could be a healing element, creating very supportive for our body and skin and having graceful aging and whatever graceful aging means for people. I mean, you might, you might have some lines, but your skin will be still glowing and looking healthy.
A
Yeah.
C
Yes.
B
Yeah.
A
I think that's something that, that some people don't understand. And I've seen this on social media before. You know, you've got this young girl who's like, why wouldn't you use tretinoin? Prescription retinoic acid, it's the strongest you can get. And then these other ones are weaker, weaker, weaker. Why would you use those? And I, I have this visual. I'm like, like, oh. I have this visual in my head that retinoic, straight retinoic acid is like 100 proof vodka, you know, and then retinol with an A is, is maybe like a regular bottle of vodka. And then retinol with an O is like a martini. And then you have like a spritzer is a retinol ester. But they all have alcohol, they all convert to retino oic acid.
C
At the end we start. And only one form that we store in our skin is retinyl palmitite. We don't store vitamin A in any other form and we need tons of it to protect us from the sun to create skin very healthy. That retinal palmatite has ability to convert into retinol, retinal aldehyde and into retinoic acid. And then also it's very important that, that we have tons of it because vimna a exposed to the light even here in the room, right away it's being diminished. So let's say 10 minutes outdoors with vitamin A will remove 3% of your Vimna A in your skin. And to reveal that you would need to remain for seven days in a very dark room to get 2% back. Oh, wow. So we keep losing that vitamin A. That's why we need to tons of it. Okay. We consume it, we consume beta carotenes and so on. And there are fatty fish and meat that we get retinol from. But main storage of our vitamin A is skin. It's our liver. We store it in the cells because cells, in order to exist, need vitamin A. They are very small little parts. For vitamin A to Even penetrate. In our career keratinocytes, we have a little pathways that vimina A only penetrates. It's not that you apply and it's gonna go anywhere. If those little pathways get destroyed. Vamina A will not penetrate and will not do anything and does not matter if you apply retinoic acid or retinol palmitite. So really does not matter. You. That's why you need that healthy skin. So A, that's just. Yeah, your skin will be thicker. Your epidermis. Your epidermis will get thicker. Your skin will be less reactive. Less reactive to the sun. Dr. Des Fernandez, he does say that if you have proper amounts of vitamin A in your system, in your skin, that equals almost SPF 20. That's not. That doesn't excuse you from using it. That's how much less reactive you will be. But that you need that vimna A to even keep healthy pathways for A to penetrate. So it's like the whole vicious circle. But that's how important that vimna A is. So versus retinoic acid or retinol. That's what we don't use during the day. Retinyl palmitide you can use during the day.
A
Okay, interesting.
B
I remember the Olay scientist back in the day, Dr. Frocke, talking about this, that it was a myth that you couldn't use the version you just said during the day. You can actually use it during the day and night.
C
Absolutely, yes.
A
So this is why there's confusion out there about whether retinol as a category creates sun sensitivity or not.
C
There is a one particular form. I mean, retinoic acid is the most irritating. It's acid retinol alcohol form of amna A. But the rest are really esters. They are not. Not as aggressive topically, but still only 3% of it will become retinoic acid. That's all what we need.
A
So it really is important to find the right retinol that your skin can.
C
Can tolerate.
A
Can tolerate.
C
Yes. You really are like you and your specialist. You become your own doctor a little bit. And I definitely don't recommend using during the summer prescription vitamin A. If you are a fan of it, great. Because retinoic acid, that's only one form that really does that job. But we have ways of applying something not so aggressive topically that still becomes retinoic acid. So vimna A, it's a must, in my opinion.
A
Yeah.
B
Amazing. We've covered a lot there. It's amazing.
A
Today's episode is brought to you in part by Jones Road Beauty. Now a lot of you know Jones Road Beauty from the Miracle Balm. It's a product that quickly became iconic because it's multi use. You can use it on your lips, on your cheeks, you can use it as a highlighter, a blush. It's really no fuss and you don't need any brushes either. And I just find that the more that I take care of my skin, the less makeup that I need. So Jones Road Beauty has really become one of those go to brands for me and I'm super excited because they are launching a foundation stick. I love foundation sticks when they are done right. I think this is going to be one of those, you know, multi use, quick and easy products you can use in the back of a cab. And I trust Bobbi Brown is just going to nail this formula. It's said to be buildable with realistic looking coverage that feels weightless on your skin, which is hard. That challenge for a foundation stick, it's also dermatologist tested and it's got those skincare loving ingredients like Ceramides, Squalane and Sodium Horonate. And it's going to have that natural finish. You know you're going to get that with any product that Bobbi Brown has designed. It's also available in 30 shades. So if you want makeup that brings out your natural glow instead of hiding it, Jones Road Beauty is the way to go. For a limited time, our listeners are getting a free gift on their first purchase when they use Code Beauty at check. Just head to Jonesroadbeauty.com and use code Beauty at checkout. After your purchase they're going to ask where you heard about them. Please support our show and tell them our show sent you.
B
Momentous is one of our show partners this week. We know how important fiber is to our overall health. It aids in gut health, it aids in digestion. And I know when I have enough fiber in my diet then I just feel better. I feel less sluggish overall. But. But the reality is sometimes I need a little boost to get my fiber intake for the day. And that's why I love taking Momentous Fiber plus. So what I appreciate about this is that it's a triple action formula. It combines soluble and insoluble fiber with prebiotic resistant starch to support gut health and digestion. It helps your body absorb nutrients, better stabilize blood sugar and improve recovery. And I choose Momentous because they're NSF certified for sport, which means it's been third party tested for purity and label accuracy. Plus it's so easy to work into my daily routine. There's just two little scoops that you take. Either put them in a protein shake or stir it into water, drink it and you're well on your way to get your fiber intake for the day. So support your gut health and overall performance with Momentous Fiber Plus. And get up to 35 off your entire first order at livemomentous.com using our promo code code BEAUTY. That's livemomentous.com promo code BEAUTY for up to 35 off. That's live momentous.com spelled L I V E M O M E- N- T- O- U- S.com promo code BEAUTY. We'll link to the software in our show notes and on our website. Now back to the show.
A
Well, let's talk about other elements of people's routine. What they're getting right, what they're getting wrong. What are people getting wrong about cleansing that might be sabotaging the rest of their routine?
C
Effy about cleansing. I mean first of all not cleansing at night, that's. That's the first thing. What means double cleanse Sometimes you know, for me double cleanse could be if you are makeup user then would be again wipes not to mess up your white towel and then cleanser or as I mentioned balm and then gentle cleanser. You don't need to use acidic cleanser whatsoever. If, I mean I'm, if I'm not a user I don't need any other stripping off natural oils with any people get sometimes to town with. You need to be rosy and pink and burning because otherwise it does not work. You can treat your skin with such a respect. Maybe it will take a few days longer but you can do it gently. So double cleanse. I recommend twice a week but it's a little different. Double cleanse, you cleanse your skin with your proper cleanser. On a given day I have 12 different cleansers but only because of different consistency. That's my form of decongestion. After that, when my skin is already clean twice a week I put put pre cleanse oil. Oil works as a descent crescent so softens potential sebum. There is zero sebum my age but or dehydrated patches. And then I put hydrating clay mask over it and kind of massage it together. Whatever oil dissolved or softened clay mask with kaolin is going to detach it. And that's my form of double cleanse or rather almost exfoliation. Exfoliation that mild exfoliation that you don't need to scrub your skin.
B
Do you let the clay mask harden
C
or this is not the hardening one and I actually activate it with water. Both factors. With water we very often use this combination for massages. By the time I'm done with 30 minutes massage, the skin is already clean. Oxidized part of comedon is gone. I don't need to torture the skin. Yes.
B
I love those videos. I see them all the time. People. It's almost like their sebum. It's like you're saying it's like oil pulling almost for the pores.
C
Oil dissolves.
B
Yes.
C
That's the fact which some trends. I'm not going to say who and why they put olive oil all over the body for three months because that was celebrity. Then the whole world does it. That oil will dehydrate your skin and you will be breaking out. The skin is such a smart organ that's going to be producing more oil to offer that lipidic layer. Because you completely destroyed it by putting olive oil on your skin. I use olive oil to remove shoe skins. It's very powerful agent but removes rubber from the floor. So it definitely is going to dehydrate your skin. Not after one or two usages or you are in situation that you need to do it. But if you do for three months every single day, it's what is going to dehydrate your skin.
B
I'm glad someone's done that experiment and I don't have to.
A
Yeah.
C
Yes.
A
What is the clay mask that you use again?
C
The clay mask that I use, it's environ hydrating clay mask or exfoliating clay mask. The one that really does not harden. Yes. But you know, there are other masks. You could make the mask that becomes very cementy at the end. But if you are activating with water, they are just ways of working it in. And I just educate clients. If they say they have their own clay mask and they are not interested in purchasing it, I said just make sure that you don't allow it to harden. Because. Because I think your skin is already too thin or too dehydrated. That's not necessary mask for you.
A
Yes.
C
Okay.
B
What about facial mists? Because there's a lot of them on the market.
C
So what I understand after washing your face there is to me not applying anything before you applied balancing ph, controlling toner. That's the way how I was taught. There is a technique of application that if you do twice a day or anytime you wash your face, you can create More hydration and the skin looks plumpier for 15 seconds. But if you do for 50 years twice a day, it really changes condition of the skin. So depends what is it just hydrator or does it have proper pH? The healthiest pH of human skin is 5 to 5.9. Slightly acidic. If it gets too close to alkaline level then we can start experiencing some inflammatory situations. If it gets very acidic, skin will be very dehydrated and burning and uncomfortable. First thing what's going to happen lipidic layer will be affected. If it's wrong ph then we start experiencing transepidermal water loss. Then skin feels dehydrated, micro swelling, red patch and then we have inflammation, pain, fully blown breakout and so on. Starts with proper ph. So mist could be hydrating and comforting. They are essences that they call them also toners and so on. I just know I love simple name toner with proper ph.
A
Yeah.
C
About 5 to 5.5, 4.5 to 5.5. We after washing the face we might dilute that acidity. So I want to bring it down again like make a little lower. What we are exposed to, what we drink, what we eat. Changes of the temperature, especially from heat to cold. So now it's gonna be in the summer when you walk in from 40 degrees Celsius to freezing apartment or in the winter the other way around. That changes PH of the skin. You know I love thermal water from Avin. He's so many burn victims. So mist as a mist depending if it has probiotic, if it has proper ph then also I think it could be used as a treatment. Otherwise it's a comforting and hydrating thing. To finish your makeup. To start your makeup.
A
Yes.
C
I don't love applying serums and mine is vitamin A right under over evaporating water. It's like almost you prepare the wall for painting without the primer. You you scraped it or buffed it and then did not put the primer and you want to put So I I consider my toner almost as a primer for the rest of the Me too. That's how I that's how I was
A
use it every single day. What's the one that is ph balance. That is it environ. It's Joanna.
C
Check another one is actually exquisite. My friend has line exquisite and love the toner very much. Large 5.5 ph and you know there is balancing water by Swiss Perfection. Beautiful iris scent. I don't love scented products but that iris is like sexy Swiss men. So like I I when I When I sell it to clients, it's. It's just like sexy Swiss men on your face. Yeah.
A
Okay, so this has been fantastic. Joanne, I'm going to ask you one last question before we let you go.
C
Last one. I don't want to go.
A
I know we don't want to go. That means we have to have you back. That's what that means. Do you take supplements? And which ones really make a difference? Because I know that you're very inside out beauty person. So give us your supplement secrets.
C
I'm that very inside out beauty person because I think 70% the way how we feel and look, it's really in our hands. And whatever we do as an esthetician or maybe aesthetic dermatologists or so on, that's like 20, 30%.
A
Yeah.
C
That's otherwise that holistic approach, that was always me. First as an athlete, then twice as a cancer patient. So. So important what you put into your body. My very favorite supplement, I mean, I'm on vitamin D, but also maybe with the way how I approach sun or maybe my diet and so on. I never was D deficient. Where actually when I mentioned earlier, those SPF 1/ hundreds, 80% of generation is vitamid deficient. So then we go from extreme to extreme cream.
A
Yeah.
C
And then vitamin D and nitric oxide and then heart attacks. Right?
A
Yes.
C
So my very favorite is magnesium.
A
Right. Okay.
C
And we have all the. All different types of magnesiums. I'm not even going to break my tongue to try to name at least three or four forms, but I take all of them. They are amazing for your brain, they are amazing for your muscles. They prevent cramping, or they help you with quicker recovery after workouts. They actually again, strengthen your skin and beautifully work with vitamin D on your nitric oxide.
A
Okay.
C
So we are talking about proper quality of your veins. And capillaries bring skin's hydration and strength again, so magnesium. If I would have to choose one, I would go for that. Okay. Yeah.
A
And then the very last thing, Joanna, little birdie told me that you're writing a book.
C
What is this? I'm being interviewed, so I don't know how to refer to it. I guess that's gonna be. In Poland, we call it, I will say in Polish, vivia dzeka, or interview river, which is a question and my long, long answers. It's not gonna be scientific book. It will be probably my life, which you don't realize. A memoir, I think, think and. And maybe my jokes a little bit, because I can never, never say anything with a straight face and the first one will be in polish. But I was very very honored to be approached by agency that they thought that will be very interesting. Okay and majority of people don't know many things about me.
A
You're the true story.
C
The true story. Wow.
A
Okay. Well I am intrigued.
C
I will translate it to you. I will read it to you and translate maybe one day translation.
A
Okay well I I love this idea and such a pleasure to have you on the show. Thank you so much.
C
Thanks for having me again.
A
Thanks for listening. You can find details on every product mentioned in today's episode, along with our exclusive promo codes on our blog@breakingbeautypodcast.com While
B
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A
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A
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Episode Title: 17+ Unfiltered Skin Truths with Esthetician Joanna Czech
Release Date: May 13, 2026
Hosts: Jill Dunn (A), Carlene Higgins (B)
Guest: Joanna Czech (C) — Celebrity Esthetician
In this episode, Jill and Carlene welcome renowned esthetician Joanna Czech, dubbed "fashion’s favorite facialist," back to the show. With over forty years of experience and a client list featuring the likes of Kim Kardashian and Hailey Bieber, Joanna dispenses candid, science-backed advice about skin care — from summer skin truths to the reality of trends, the best way to use retinol, product recommendations, and the holistic factors shaping skin health.
Joanna’s signature? An unfiltered, holistic, long-game approach to skincare — with a hefty dose of common sense and humor.
[03:02–07:02]
“There are proven studies that people with some sun exposure have less heart diseases. Ever since... we came up with SPF 100... against 1 melanoma there are 8 heart diseases.” (Joanna, [05:17])
[07:03–10:07]
[13:24–17:23]
“You choose your face or your ass... You knew there was going to be no filter with Joanna.” ([15:36])
[18:10–21:29]
[21:30–26:31]
[32:52–35:55]
[35:56–45:23]
“Retinoic acid is like 100 proof vodka...retinol with an A is regular vodka...retinol with an O is a martini...They all convert to retinoic acid.” (Jill, [41:05])
[48:55–52:44]
[52:45–55:44]
“Large 5.5 pH and you know there is balancing water by Swiss Perfection...that iris is like sexy Swiss man. So like…sexy Swiss man on your face.” (Joanna, [55:50])
[56:23–58:21]
[58:21–59:24]
“A memoir, I think…and maybe my jokes a little bit, because I can never say anything with a straight face…” (Joanna, [58:26])
(Find a full list on their website: breakingbeautypodcast.com)
“Try to reach to professionals, experts. Yes.” — Joanna Czech ([22:09])
For timestamps on specific topics, see key headings above.
For product links and further details, visit breakingbeautypodcast.com.