Breaking Beauty Podcast Episode Summary

Episode Title: Carlene Introduces Her New Skincare Brand, Cassatt Beauty, With “La Pommade” Retinoid Ointment – Inspired By a Beauty Editor Cult Fave
Hosts: Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins
Date: October 1, 2025

Overview

In this special episode, co-host Carlene Higgins introduces her brand new skincare line, Cassatt Beauty, and its debut product, La Pommade Retinoid Skin Ointment. The discussion is a candid, in-depth exploration of Carlene’s motivations, behind-the-scenes development, and the philosophy driving Cassatt Beauty: creating modern, effective skincare for women over 40—by someone who knows their needs. The episode offers both a product deep-dive and a personal look at beauty entrepreneurship, community-building, and self-acceptance.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. The Genesis of Cassatt Beauty

Timestamps: 00:56 – 07:50

• Personal Vision: Carlene shares that Cassatt Beauty is the culmination of her 20 years as a beauty editor. She wanted to “edit down the very best skincare for women, people, frankly, in my age group, for my peers.”

  “I want to do something really authentic that is for my peeps that I understand. It's for you, it's for me, it's for our friends.” (Carlene Higgins, 01:48)

• Meaning Behind the Name: Cassatt Beauty draws inspiration from Mary Cassatt, an artist who painted women in their personal environments, emphasizing the “female gaze” and community among women.

  “I feel like Cassatt really embodies that and seeing the beauty in others and in ourselves.” (Carlene Higgins, 03:07)

• The Niche: The brand targets Gen X—specifically women over 40—who Carlene feels have been underserved in the skincare space.

2. See the Beauty: Philosophy & Tagline

Timestamps: 04:41 – 07:50

• Tagline: “See the beauty” is about recognizing beauty in yourself and others, particularly in midlife.

  “Consciously remind ourselves to see the beauty in ourselves. And I'll look back now, you know, five years ago... and I'm like, God, I wish I looked like that now.” (Carlene Higgins, 05:45)

• Aging Honestly: Carlene discusses her experience with perimenopause, skin changes, and self-acceptance, aiming to foster “collaboration versus competition” among women.

3. Why Another Beauty Brand?

Timestamps: 10:28 – 13:15

• Authentic Community: Carlene explains her longstanding desire to create content and products for women like herself, who aren’t represented by typical women’s media or brands.

  “People now, in my opinion, use beauty products the way that we shop for fashion and build our wardrobe. It's multiple brands. It's enjoying the experience of interacting with that brand in addition to functionality and the self-care of it all.” (Carlene Higgins, 12:36)

• Function Meets Ritual: She reframes beauty as part of daily ritual and self-expression, not just efficacy.

4. La Pommade Retinoid Skin Ointment: Formulation & Inspiration

Timestamps: 13:22 – 25:21

• Product Focus: The hero product, La Pommade Retinoid Skin Ointment, was developed to offer the proven benefits of retinoids, but with much less irritation—especially for sensitive, aging, or inflamed skin.

  “I have had trouble with retinoids in the past...this is the time when I need products to address sagging, dark marks, texture, pores, lines, and yet I can’t use it.” (Carlene Higgins, 14:10)

• French Pharmacy Influence: Modeled after classic French pharmacy ointments, but modernized:

  “It’s called La Pomade. So it definitely is inspired by French pharmacy…even though it feels like petrolatum...it’s actually what I’m calling a bio ointment. So it is petrolatum free.” (Carlene Higgins, 15:40)

• Ingredient Highlights:
  • Non-petrolatum, demi-occlusive (medium occlusion, non-comedogenic)
  • Star botanicals: Arnica, calendula, rice bran wax, castor oil
  • Retinoid: Uses retinyl acetate, a gentle retinol ester
  • Unique: Includes hyaluronic acid in an oil, for moisturizing without water

5. How to Use & Build Tolerance

Timestamps: 25:21 – 26:30

• Clear Instructions: The packaging guides users on cycling and layering:
  • Gentle Use: Apply 1–3x/week, on dry skin or over moisturizer as a buffer
  • Full Strength: Apply nightly, on bare skin or over a serum
  • Always: Use at night, sunscreen in the morning

  “I tried to make it as clear as possible...so you know when you’re using it, this is your retinoid time.” (Carlene Higgins, 24:16)

• Results: Carlene reports less dryness, flakiness, and “more juicy, glowy” skin; friends have observed less visible crow’s feet.

6. Behind the Brand: Creativity, Launch, and Community

Timestamps: 27:05 – 32:01

• Brand Aesthetics: Carlene led the branding and creative direction, collaborating with Toronto creatives for a campaign starring real friends.

  “I loved creating the branding for Cassatt Beauty, the mood boards, the vibe...I cast friends of mine, real people, who I just really respect and admire.” (Carlene Higgins, 27:18)

• Community Focus: Cassatt’s website will showcase profiles (“See the beauty”) of inspiring women in Carlene’s circle.

7. The Hardest Parts of Founding a Beauty Brand

Timestamps: 30:19 – 33:11

• Biggest Challenge: The business side—learning all aspects and time management

  “Cloning myself and having time and the learning curve...I will make mistakes...but I will correct them.” (Carlene Higgins, 31:04)

• Delays & Launch Timing: Several pivots required due to business realities, including clinical trials—not yet complete but ongoing.

8. Navigating Potential Conflicts as a Beauty Editor-Founder

Timestamps: 33:40 – 35:45

• Transparency: Carlene commits to clear disclosure; her only current product is a retinoid, so she’ll refrain from reviewing others.

  “I think what's important is the transparency. And so anybody who is on our show, be aware that I have a skincare brand of my own.” (Carlene Higgins, 34:33)

9. Who It’s For: All Ages Welcome

Timestamps: 37:00 – 37:59

• Intended Audience: Primarily for 40+, but also beneficial for younger users—especially anyone experiencing inflammation or seeking gentle retinoids.

  "Anyone who's familiar with slugging is going to love this product—it's like a two in one." (Carlene Higgins, 37:26)

• Added Touches: Even Carlene’s partner loves the product—ushering in an “addictive, comforting quality.”

10. Where to Buy & Follow

Timestamps: 38:39 – end

• Pre-order: cassattbeauty.com (CASSATT.beauty)
• Instagram & TikTok: @cassatt.beauty
• Carlene’s Substack: The 11s—for entrepreneurship and real-life updates
• Upcoming Content: Cassatt will continue featuring real women, beauty journeys, and community shout-outs

Memorable Quotes & Moments

• On why beauty products matter:

  “People now...use beauty products the way that we shop for fashion and build our wardrobe. It's multiple brands. It's enjoying the experience...in addition to functionality and the self-care of it all.” (Carlene Higgins, 12:36)

• On seeing the beauty in yourself:

  “If I had seen the beauty in myself at that time...you have to stop and be like, no, there’s something really beautiful when I look in the mirror.” (Carlene Higgins, 06:16)

• On Claire’s integrity as a founder:

  “Everybody can have an idea. But to execute on the idea and just go with it...it's a very hard path to go on.” (Jill Dunn, 35:59)

• On inclusion:

  “We have people of all ages who listen to this show. The younger girlies, you can use this too. It’s not just for...that demo.” (Jill Dunn, 37:00)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• Background and Brand Vision: 00:56 – 07:50
• Naming and Philosophy: 01:48 – 04:41
• Midlife Beauty, Self-esteem: 04:41 – 07:50
• Brand Opportunity & Why It Exists: 10:28 – 13:15
• Why a Retinoid (Hero Product): 13:22 – 14:53
• Formulation Details: 15:07 – 21:44
• How to Use: 24:09 – 26:30
• Creative Direction & Launch: 27:05 – 32:01
• Challenges of Launch: 30:19 – 33:11
• Editorial Transparency: 33:40 – 35:45
• Who It’s For: 37:00 – 37:59
• How to Order/Follow: 38:39 – End

This episode is equal parts founder’s story and beauty industry deep-dive, marking a milestone for Carlene as she brings decades of expertise to a new kind of skincare—rooted in community, self-acceptance, and real results.