Breaking Beauty Podcast: How-to Make Your Makeup Last Longer! A 101 Masterclass with Ruby Hammer, MBE

Released on July 16, 2025.

In this insightful episode of the Breaking Beauty Podcast, hosts Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins welcome renowned British makeup artist Ruby Hammer, MBE, to delve deep into the art of making makeup last longer. With over three decades of experience in the beauty industry, Ruby shares her expert tips on skin preparation, choosing the right primers and setting products, and maintaining flawless makeup throughout the day—even in challenging conditions like extreme heat.

1. Introducing Ruby Hammer

Ruby Hammer, a global makeup artist and brand founder, brings a wealth of knowledge from her extensive career spanning editorial, commercial shoots, catwalks, and red carpets. Awarded an MBE in 2007 for her significant contributions to the cosmetics industry, Ruby is also celebrated for pioneering inclusivity in UK beauty products.

Jill Dunn highlights Ruby's impressive background:

"[Ruby] has been killing it in the game for so long. And in fact, she was awarded an MBE... for her long-standing contribution to the cosmetics industry." [02:11]

2. The Importance of Skin Preparation

Ruby emphasizes that flawless makeup begins with proper skin prep. She likens preparing the skin to rendering a wall before painting—essential for a smooth and lasting finish.

Ruby Hammer explains:

"Before we get into cosmetics, every professional artist or anybody really has to step back into doing the prep. That prep is what's going to show the end result, whether it's going to last longer or be more dramatic." [08:35]

Do's and Don'ts of Skincare Application

• Do: Use a liquid exfoliant for quick and effective preparation, especially when time is limited. Ruby recommends products like Aveda's Botanical Kinetics.
• Don't: Skip the prep or apply too rich of a product that can cause makeup to slide or not set properly.

Carlene Higgins adds:

"I sort of don't wear [eye creams]. I save my eye creams for nighttime to avoid transfer." [09:51]

Ruby advises using eye creams judiciously:

"As long as you're light-handed and ensure it has sunk in properly before you makeup." [10:34]

3. Choosing and Applying Primers

Primers play a crucial role in extending the longevity of makeup. Ruby discusses various types of primers tailored to different skin needs.

Ruby Hammer states:

"Primers are not just one. You can have a hydrating one, a mattifying one, one with SPF, or a blurring one. Find the one that's right for your skin." [16:36]

Primer Tips:

• For Oily Skin: Apply primarily to the T-zone to control shine without overloading other areas.
• For Dry Skin: Focus on areas like the cheeks to add hydration without making the skin look greasy.
• Application Technique: Use a thin layer to prevent a heavy, cakey appearance. Ruby suggests:

  "Take a little layer of it, not too much." [16:36]

Notable Product Recommendations:

• Laura Mercier
• Urban Decay
• Smashbox

Ruby also cautions against "sticky" primers popularized by platforms like TikTok, advising users to prioritize functionality over visual gimmicks:

"Setting sprays can be another option to preserve makeup and make it longer lasting." [17:58]

4. Avoiding Makeup Caking

Caking occurs when makeup layers become heavy and uneven, leading to a patchy appearance. Ruby identifies common causes and solutions to prevent this issue.

Ruby Hammer explains:

"Probably the most important is lack of time. People are trying to speed walk this and don't take the effort needed, leading to caking." [25:55]

Strategies to Prevent Caking:

• Light Layers: Apply thin, even layers rather than thick amounts.
• Proper Blending: Ensure each layer sinks in before applying the next.
• Targeted Application: Focus on areas prone to caking, such as under the eyes and the T-zone, and blend well.

Julia Dunn emphasizes:

"It's all about the skin prep." [16:29]

Ruby adds:

"Use tools like Q-tips and small brushes to apply minimal product precisely where needed." [12:18]

5. Setting Powders vs. Setting Sprays

Choosing between setting powders and sprays depends on skin type and desired finish.

Ruby Hammer discusses:

"Translucent powders help set makeup without adding color, while colored powders can aid in slight color correction." [43:45]

Translucent Powders:

• Purpose: Set makeup and control shine without altering color.
• Application Tip: Use sparingly to avoid a white cast, especially on lighter skin tones. Ruby advises:

  "I use it very light-handed and apply it where it's needed." [46:24]

Colored Powders:

• Purpose: Correct specific skin issues like redness or sallowness.
• Application Example:

  "Use a pale pink or green to neutralize redness." [43:45]

Setting Sprays:

• Purpose: Lock in makeup and provide a natural or matte finish.
• Favorite Picks:
  • Charlotte Tilbury Setting Spray for a flawless finish. Ruby notes:

    "Let it dry and let it do its work." [41:02]

  • One Size Setting Spray for oilier skin types. [41:39]

Ruby cautions against trendy "water glitter" sprays, suggesting their effectiveness may vary:

"It has no bearing on the actual reality of wearing cosmetics as such." [36:13]

6. Mastering Lip Makeup

Ruby provides an in-depth approach to priming and setting lips to ensure longevity and a polished look.

Steps for Long-Lasting Lips:

1. Exfoliation: Ruby recommends using a lip scrub or a moisturizing mask to smooth out dry, peeling lips.

   "Use a lip scrub or a thick layer of product, leave it on, then gently remove the excess." [52:04]

2. Application: Apply lip product with precision using a brush for control.

   "Use a lip brush for precision and to deposit the right amount of color." [52:55]

3. Setting: Layer with a tissue and translucent powder to lock in the color without greasiness.

   "Separate a tissue into thin plies, place it over your lips, and apply powder through it." [54:22]

Ruby also shares tips on avoiding slipperiness and ensuring color stays in place:

"Don't apply too much directly; build the color gradually for a more durable finish." [34:54]

7. Ruby Hammer’s Product Line and Future Plans

Towards the end of the episode, Ruby introduces her own line of makeup products designed for effortless application and long-lasting performance.

Dual-Ended Mascara and Brow Wand:

• Design: Thin, precise brushes tailored for defining lashes and brows without clogging.
• Inspiration: Developed from techniques used in high-pressure environments like red carpets, ensuring reliability and ease of use.

Ruby emphasizes her brand's ethos:

"Make it similar to how you do your wardrobe... essentials that hold a place and can be built upon." [57:44]

She encourages blending her products with other brands to enhance versatility and outcomes:

"I carry things in my kit that other brands successfully provide and add mine to it." [58:31]

Conclusion

This episode serves as a comprehensive guide for anyone looking to extend the wear of their makeup through meticulous skin preparation, strategic primer and setting product selection, and precise application techniques. Ruby Hammer’s expert insights, backed by her extensive experience in the beauty industry, provide listeners with actionable tips to achieve a flawless and enduring makeup look.

Notable Quotes:

• Ruby Hammer: "Primers are what's right for your skin... Find the one that's right for your skin." [16:36]
• Carlene Higgins: "Your skin is a living thing... manipulating it to a degree." [12:55]
• Jill Dunn: "It's all about the skin prep." [16:29]

For more detailed product recommendations and exclusive promo codes mentioned in this episode, visit the Breaking Beauty Podcast website at breakingbeautypodcast.com.