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Breaking Beauty Podcast
Skincare School in Session! Hollywood Facialist Gina Mari On What You May be Getting Wrong in Your Skincare Routine
00:49:43
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- [00:01]
A
The following podcast is a dear media production.
- [00:08]
B
Welcome to Breaking Beauty the podcast all about the breakthrough people, products and moments in beauty.
- [00:14]
C
We're your hosts, Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins.
- [00:22]
B
Hello and welcome back to Breaking Beauty podcast, the podcast all about the breakthrough people, products and moments in beauty. I'm your co host, co Carlene Higgins. And I'm here with my delightful co host, Jill Dunn. Hey.
- [00:34]
C
Hey, pod fam. Hey, Carlene. I am so excited to be talking today all about skin care. It's like of all of the topics that we do, it's just like I can't get enough of this topic and I feel like that's our audience as well.
- [00:47]
B
And I'm really excited about our guest today who's here to help all of us reset for fall. It's Gina Marie, named top celebrity facialist in Los Angeles by Allure magazine. One of the best red carpet facialists by Violet gray and bonafide skin expert.
- [01:04]
C
Yeah. And Carlene, I don't know if you know this or not because Gina Marie is a modest individual, but her background, she was actually on screen. She was an actress and she was like a stunt person. Like, she's badass.
- [01:16]
B
And I think I had no idea.
- [01:18]
C
Yeah. And I think that is what sets her apart. In Los Angeles, there's plenty of plenty of incredible estheticians and facialists, but they may not have been on the big screen themselves. So she innately understands what's what that's like to look at your pores on a 4K 60 foot screen. So no wonder that it keeps the people coming back, you know?
- [01:40]
B
Absolutely. That. And she's just a steel trap when it comes to she will not name names who her celebrity clientele is. She's really kind of old school that way, which I'm sure a lot of celebrities appreciate, that kind of discretion.
- [01:55]
C
Yeah.
- [01:55]
B
And when it comes to Gina's skin care approach, it's all about skin renewal and preservation being the key word, you know, really taking care of your skin, holding on to what you have for as long as you can.
- [02:08]
C
Gina, she's a product guru. Sometimes we will interview these experts and they have one line that they love and they really stick to it. But she's trying all kinds of different lines. And she introduced us to some new skincare in this episode that we hadn't heard of before. And she was talking about some of our more recent favorites, like one skin, the mineral sunscreen agent Natur. Like, she's just curious. Right. And I love that. And she's all about getting the best results and we'll try a lot of different stuff.
- [02:34]
B
She's always on top of the latest research based methods to reverse signs of aging, acne and stress as well. So tools like LED photo modulation, dry and wet dermabrasion, everything to achieve hydrated, glowing, plump skin without makeup.
- [02:51]
C
Love that. I mean it was really funny too. When she walked in the room, Carlene, she was like, I just saw you on tv because I had just done a TV segment. I think that also shows her Gen X nature because she was watching television anyway.
- [03:06]
B
That's true. Instead of YouTube. Although you will be able to watch this whole conversation on YouTube. I hope everybody has subscribed at Breaking Beauty podcast.
- [03:16]
C
Yeah, you got to see how good Gina's skin is in person. I just really love chatting with her. In this week's episode, we're getting a bit of a skin school tutorial. I would say just a bit of a fall reset. We're going to find out which sneaky habits might be making our skin worse in our own skincare routines at home. We're talking about common mistakes that might be exacerbating breakouts. What might be contributing to post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, the real cause of your perioral dermatitis. Blackheads. So much more.
- [03:47]
B
Yes. Including how to exfoliate sensitive skin without making matters worse. I was listening in for that one. And any potential sunscreen missteps we might be making. And finally, Gina will share which products and ingredients have best stood the test of time in her 25 years as a trusted esthetician. And everything we talk about will be listed over on our website @breaking beauty podcast.com so here she is, Gina Marie.
- [04:28]
C
This episode is brought to you in part by Medicaid, a clinically proven British skincare brand known for age defying results.
- [04:35]
B
So today we're talking all about back to skin school. And Jill, you and I know as longtime beauty editors, it's all about the ABCs of skin care. Vitamin A, vitamin B and vitamin C. Tell us the latest that's in your skincare wardrobe.
- [04:50]
C
I love when a vitamin C kind of gets a new twist on it. And the C Tetra advanced gel serum, it actually pairs 20% music to my air is 20% powerful and stabilized vitamin C with barrier supporting phyto exosomes to visibly brighten smooth skin texture and improve wrinkles in just one week. So those little sunspots that kind of creeped up on me on my forehead and around my eyes during the summer, it's just like I feel like this is treating them so well and you.
- [05:19]
B
Really see a difference after a week?
- [05:21]
C
Yes.
- [05:22]
B
Okay. I know you're a big fan of Medicate, so I don't doubt. And we love that all of Medicaid's products, they undergo clinical testing. They have amazing before and after results and everything is dermatologist tested. So if you'd like to try it for yourself, Medicate. C Tetra Advanced Gel face Serum is available online@Medicaid US that's M E D I K and the number 8 US use code breaking 20 for 20% off your order.
- [05:50]
C
Once again, that's Medicaid M E D I k and the number 8 us and use code breaking20 for 20 off your order. We'll link to this offer in our show notes and on our website. Now back to the show.
- [06:02]
D
Hi, guys, it's Jordan from the Balance Blonde Soul on Fire podcast. On my show, we go deep on all things astrology, awakening, motherhood, channeling, healing, and so much more. A few years ago, I was diagnosed with chronic Lyme disease, and the healing journey I embarked on at that time set me on the path to radical awakening. Let's just say I had no choice but to change my energy. And that opened me up to the most beautiful healing of my life. On my show, you can expect to feel like you're sitting in my living room chatting with old friends. Tune in every Wednesday to connect and hang on the balance. Bond. Soul on Fire.
- [06:43]
B
Welcome to the show, Gina. So happy to have you with us. And today we're going to be talking all about the common mistakes that people might be making in their skin routine. So. And it could be lifestyle habits, too. It might not even be the products that they're using. And I read that your approach to treating the skin is all about skin renewal and preservation. So when it comes to preserving the skin, we what's the number one mistake people are making?
- [07:10]
A
I would say the number one mistake that people make is not washing their face at night. It's so simple, it's so basic. But we really have to prep our skin for what our body's doing when we're sleeping. So when you're sleeping, your cells are repairing and restoring, and that's when your body is super busy. So much cellular activity happening, so why combat that? Let it do its thing.
- [07:33]
B
So.
- [07:33]
A
So not washing your face before you go to bed, I would say is the number one thing.
- [07:38]
B
Can I tell you something that I'm guilty of? I do wash my face every night. However, if I'm not going out or doing anything. I don't wear makeup. Like I'll just, you know, and in on those days I give myself a pass and I don't wash my face at night. But I am starting to understand that even though I'm not wearing makeup, I still should be washing my face at night. That. Is that true?
- [08:04]
A
Absolutely, 100%. Because you're out there in the environment, whether you're in the middle of nowhere or you're in the busiest city on the planet, you're still getting environmental stressors, you're still getting UV exposure, you're still getting pollution on your skin. So even if you feel like you're just, I'm just walking around the house today or doing chores or whatnot, you still have to wash your skin at night, even if it's just a quick one, but just, you know, not a double cleanse. If you're wearing a ton of makeup, for sure. If you're just at home chilling out, still at least use a micellar essence or to just take the day off.
- [08:38]
C
Put away, as Clinique said, all those years ago. Exactly.
- [08:41]
A
The three step program from Clinique.
- [08:43]
C
100%. I understand your passion for skincare, Gina, was sparked when you yourself got adult acne in your late 20s. I suffer from adult acne. It's just, it's way worse than teenage acne, I'm telling you. And in this day and age we know there's so many different types of acne. What's sort of that sneaky self sabotage move that people might be doing without even realizing it, or for you personally, maybe you were doing something and you were like, oh, this actually was triggering my acne.
- [09:11]
A
Okay. So physically one thing to not do if you're struggling with acne is pick. Picking at home is the worst thing on the planet. Second to that is a magnifying mirror. We don't need to see that. I always tell everyone, if you're dealing with your skin and you're insecure about it at all, don't look at it like this. Yes, look at it like this. So most of the world sees us from this length.
- [09:39]
C
Arm's length, arm's length.
- [09:40]
A
So if you're, you're struggling with something or you have a skin condition that you're battling, if you look okay, from me to you, yeah, you're fine.
- [09:48]
B
Right.
- [09:49]
A
Leave that up close scrutiny to a dermatologist, to an esthetician, to a professional, let go of it essentially.
- [09:57]
B
And then when it comes to barrier repair, taking care of your barrier for myself, I Had hormonal acne when I was a teenager and in my 20s mine was in my T zone and I would try to avoid applying moisturizer in that area. Now we have so many different options. So what would you say would be a do for taking care of your barrier if you are acne prone? Like I know some people avoid shea butter. What would be like the ingredients to look for and avoid?
- [10:27]
A
Well, I would say it would be less about the ingredients to avoid and a way to treat it. Overall, I think one of the worst conception misconceptions that people have about dealing with oily acne prone or full blown acne skin is to dry it out. Over drying the skin is not going to be helpful at all. I love to treat acne slightly wet, you know, for, for in definition of wet, I would say is hydrated. So if you're crusting up that top layer of skin, you're not letting it a escape, if you will. And also you're sending all these crazy messages to your skin that produce more oil essentially as you're completely drying it out. So I would not be afraid of hydrating acneic skin at all because you also want it to breathe and kind of release if you. That sounds really gross.
- [11:22]
C
But get rid of like the clogged pore, the stuff that's clogged in there.
- [11:26]
A
The stuff that's clogged in there. And then, you know, oftentimes when you're looking at previous acne patients, you'll see a lot of scarring, like ice pick scarring and stuff like that. Most of that is not from the actual pimple, it's from the time that it's spent in there or picking it and squeezing at it and whatnot. So I really strongly believe in taking care of it, that you know, your acid mantle, all of it, and also treating it with. Also there's really great products out there that are really focusing on prebiotics, probiotics, healthy bacteria for your skin. So it's not about just stripping everything away, it's about letting your body kind of function.
- [12:08]
B
Do you have a favorite?
- [12:09]
A
Well, I'm really obsessed with this new line called Editrix. She's also a beauty editor.
- [12:15]
C
Okay.
- [12:16]
A
And there's. It's a four, four step line. It's an oil cleanser, a foaming cleanser, a spray and then a serum.
- [12:23]
C
Okay.
- [12:23]
A
And I'll tell you, I do, I know you guys do too. So much product testing and most of the time will go awry.
- [12:30]
B
Yeah, that's right.
- [12:31]
A
And whenever I Use this product line. It writes me in like 24 hours. So it's really great in terms of handling kind of, you know, issues that you're dealing with. Okay.
- [12:42]
B
Interesting.
- [12:42]
A
Yeah.
- [12:42]
B
And I liked what you said about keeping your acne wet, for lack of a better way to put it. But it reminds me of. It reminded me of a conversation that I once had with. It was actually a. Like a kind of a publicist in house for La Roche Posay. And they were talking about the cica plast. That's what La Roche Posay. Right.
- [13:04]
C
Yes.
- [13:05]
B
And she was talking about how the whole thinking behind wound healing is that you don't actually wanted to get dry. Like, people think that the best thing to do is to dry it out when. If you have like a wound. But it's actually the opposite because that actually allows the wound healing to happen versus, like just scabbing, which is gonna lead to a scar. So you kind of wanna like take care of it as opposed to just like.
- [13:35]
A
It's kind of like multi folding there. Because, you know if you're cutting yourself on your hand and you're gonna keep reopening it.
- [13:43]
B
Yeah.
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A
You gotta cover it for a little bit, but then air it out at night.
- [13:46]
B
Right.
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A
That's what we do for our kids. Or knees or whatever. Your face, you're never gonna really cover it fully. Yeah. So you don't want to completely dry it out. Because also when you're dealing with wound healing, you're also dealing with scabs coming off too fast. And so that's really where the scars are coming from when your scab comes off too fast and sun exposure or you're getting, you know.
- [14:06]
B
Right.
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A
So I agree with you on that, that I just don't like anything being overly dry.
- [14:12]
B
Yeah. Okay.
- [14:13]
C
Yeah. I think a good line, honestly, that kind of treats the skin with that sort of 360 approach is the fin line from Indeed Labs ph dash in. It's all about barrier support and health and not drying out the skin.
- [14:27]
B
Yeah.
- [14:27]
A
Right.
- [14:28]
C
And no shea butter in there and all of that.
- [14:30]
B
So it's one of the first lines that have come out that don't have benzoyl peroxide. Benzoyl peroxide and like a lot of ahas and stuff like that. The. Even though it's for acne, the main focus is on.
- [14:42]
C
Sorry. Probably probiotics and hydration.
- [14:44]
B
Yeah.
- [14:45]
A
Really think that, you know, with the. The wonderful explosion of social media and TikTok and all of it, there has been a lot of misinformation that's been spread. And I think it's really valuable, you know, ladies like yourself where you can kind of reprogram the education of how to deal with problematic skin.
- [15:04]
C
Yeah.
- [15:05]
A
And like you just said, it's unfortunate that, you know, some young person or an older person that doesn't really understand what the ingredients are or what they're doing are going to. Exactly what you said. Seab Breeze back in my day, you know, and just strip everything away.
- [15:21]
C
Oh, this. This brand Editrix is beautiful.
- [15:23]
B
Former.
- [15:24]
C
Former W and Allure editor.
- [15:27]
A
Oh, Dalia.
- [15:28]
C
And she's dia.
- [15:29]
A
Lovely.
- [15:30]
C
I love the branding.
- [15:31]
A
The branding is beautiful.
- [15:33]
C
Call me Dalia. Call me. Because it's all about microbiome.
- [15:36]
A
Yes.
- [15:36]
B
Okay. All right.
- [15:38]
C
I could see the editor eye here.
- [15:39]
A
Can you. Yes, for sure.
- [15:41]
B
Love it. Okay. Now, apparently trending on TikTok right now, you were just talking about this, like, young people are sharing with their peers that turmeric soap is the answer to acne. What's your take on that?
- [15:56]
A
I think turmeric is an amazing ingredient in terms of ingestion. It's really great for inflammation and all of that. Throw it in your smoothie. Throw it in that. I don't think that we have enough information about what it can do topically.
- [16:11]
B
Right.
- [16:12]
A
So, you know, like, we're talking about Aditrix. We were all taking prebiotics, probiotics in our gut, and now we're discovering that it's great for our skin. I'd like to kind of hang out and see what turmeric is going to be doing in the future. Turmeric on its own, I'm not. I'm not going to jump up and down and say, yay, we have a cure. However, I'm, you know, curious about the topical inflammation benefits.
- [16:34]
B
Right.
- [16:35]
C
Yeah. You would presume that it's, like, calming, but what do we know?
- [16:39]
A
One would presume. And if it is, that would be wonderful. But I'd like to see that more in terms of eczema, psoriasis, those really inflammatory issues. So let's test it out on something gnarly like that.
- [16:52]
C
Yeah.
- [16:52]
A
And see if we can start putting it on her face. What do you guys think?
- [16:55]
C
First of all, the word soap and face, I just. I don't know. I'm still not there putting a soap of any kind on my face.
- [17:03]
A
But there's one bar soap that I'm actually a huge fan of. I've started using it myself.
- [17:09]
C
Okay.
- [17:10]
A
It's a Caldera lab. It's actually line for men. It's specifically created for Men. And they have a bar soap. And I've been testing it. Okay. I will say I kind of love it.
- [17:23]
C
Oh, why? Why do you love it? Tell me more.
- [17:26]
A
I love the. It's super clean, supernatural, and it's not stripping.
- [17:33]
C
Okay.
- [17:33]
A
And it's easy. One thing that I love about soap, just to kind of sidestep this.
- [17:39]
C
No, I want to hear it. Yes.
- [17:41]
A
If you can get a teenage boy to wash his face, that's like a major win. So if I can get a bar soap in his hands and he'll actually use it in the shower, or any teenager, anybody who doesn't like washing their face, I'm really into giving them something that will make them happy to do it as opposed to make it a chore. So the Caldera lab soap, that's the only soap so far I've been like, oh, interesting.
- [18:05]
C
This is reminding me of my conversation with Katie Denno, the makeup artist, and she recommended Jeanette All Natural skin care Green tea superfood facial bar. Now this is a 53, so that's great. And she, the owner, did send one to me. And it is meant to be used on your face. And I do trust Katie. So maybe I'll test it out.
- [18:28]
B
Yeah. You know, anecdotally she said it's worked wonders for people and.
- [18:32]
C
Yeah.
- [18:33]
B
So why not? We'll try it. We try it.
- [18:35]
C
I like that. Okay, moving on.
- [18:38]
B
How about any other post inflammatory hyperpigmentation habit, sneaky habits that people might be doing that are exacerbating the situation?
- [18:47]
A
Yeah. So melasma hyperpigmentation is harder to work with than acne. I would say that melasma and hyperpigmentation are by far one of the hardest things to fix. So when I'm dealing with somebody who has active acne, I coaching them through the process, I say, we're not going to worry about color yet. We're not going to worry about any of that. We just want to worry about flat. I want your texture, texture to be flat. We'll tackle the color later. Meanwhile, we're tackling it all along. But just to kind of like talk to people about pigmentation because it's very difficult to work with. One thing is a lot of people will think if they're sunbathing or they're out, you know, oh, I put sunscreen on my face. But you didn't put it on your arms and your legs. So it's not like you can just activate. You can pick one area to activate a melanocyte cell. They're all going to get active and happy and want to come out and play. And melanocyte cells, which are the melanin, essentially cells, they're like little octopus that kind of crawl up to the surface when they're activated with light. And that can be blue light, too. Computer light, everything. So really paying attention to not using too many AHAs, BHAs, or retinoids. When you're going to be in the sun. In California, everybody's in the sun. It's like, forget about it. I was just in Oklahoma with my stepdad. He's bald, and the sunroof was open. And I was like. Not to say that vitamin D isn't good. It's great. We need sunlight. It's healthy for us. However, be very mindful of if there's. Oh, my forehead has melasma patch on it. Don't go bake in the sun right now. If you want to fix it. We have to be careful. Also snow skiing, you know, it's multitudes of things like that. I don't think I answered your question, though.
- [20:43]
B
No, I think that was helpful. What I was gonna go back to is it sounded like what you were saying is that if you have melasma and you're only applying sunscreen to your face and you're allowing the sun, have. Have at it with the rest of your body. Let's say you're by a pool or whatever, that it actually can create. It can exacerbate the melasma that shows up above your lip, everywhere.
- [21:07]
A
Yeah.
- [21:08]
B
Really?
- [21:08]
C
Well, it's an organ, right? Yeah, it's. It's. It's activated. Like if your legs. That's why people will say they get mel. Let's say melanoma. They'll get it on the bottom of their feet, between their toes, on their ass, whatever. They're like, I've never had that in my. In the son of my life. Well, it's all connected.
- [21:26]
A
It's all connected. Exactly. And you know, a really good friend of mine, an esthetician, she's been in the business for 40 years almost. She had a melanoma on the back of her calf.
- [21:36]
C
Very common in women.
- [21:38]
B
It's supposed to be very common there. Yeah. Interesting.
- [21:41]
A
It's interesting. So in terms of. If you're dealing with somebody that has acneic skin and they're concerned about the color or the pigmentation or all of that, I do love retinoids. I love vitamin C in the daytime and vitamin A at night. Those are my two powerhouses. That combination. They're both also, besides, like maybe Coenzyme 10, CoQ 10, whatever. They're the only real actives ingredients, you know, and so our actives are super, super. They're my best friends.
- [22:11]
B
Yeah.
- [22:13]
A
And I will say that the one number one thing that I really want to say to people who are maybe suffering with melasma or whatnot. Please don't get a laser. Please. Wait. I've seen IPLs just destroy pigment and just make it so bad. So in terms of any treatment for pigment, I really love people to go slow and steady with it. However, my favorite treatment, and I think they've just reformulated it again, is the old school cosmelan.
- [22:44]
B
Okay, what's cosmelan?
- [22:46]
A
Okay, so it was launched by a Spanish company probably, I don't want to say, 20 years ago. And it is one of the only treatments that I've seen that really does work. They've changed the formula throughout the years. It was really intense in the beginning, and everybody was freaking out. So they took it down and then they've brought it back up and, you know, toyed with different versions of it. But the latest version of it, I've seen really beautiful results. So any dermatologist, nurse, physician's assistant can. Can do it. It's. It's tedious because it's a mask that you leave on your skin for eight to ten hours.
- [23:21]
B
Oh, wow.
- [23:22]
A
Yeah.
- [23:23]
B
And what kind of a mask?
- [23:24]
C
Like, it's called a depigmentation treatment. Yeah, right. Yeah.
- [23:29]
B
Is it a topical. Is it a physical mask?
- [23:32]
A
It's a physical topical mask that you put on and then the aftercare, you do the Cosmolin 2. I think it's three times a day, then two times a day, then when you step it down. So it's very tedious and laborious. Right, but it's more like an inhibitor. It's more like kind of sitting on those little octopus that are coming up and it's like, no, no, no. Stay down. And they're like, ah. And no.
- [23:52]
C
So, okay, what's in it? What is it?
- [23:55]
A
Koji acid? Vitamin K? Yeah, I'm not clear on all the ingredients right now because the formula's changed. And again, I'm not a practitioner of it. I've just seen it. So.
- [24:05]
B
Yeah, we'll link to that. Everyone. This episode is brought to you in by Quint. So I've just gotten back from Italy for two weeks, and let me tell you that my spending budget is on a diet. It really is. And yet I need to refresh my wardrobe with some new staple pieces for fall. Of course I do. And I'm going to be shopping at Quints. I'll tell you why. Quince nails it with luxe essentials that feel effortless. They look polished. They're perfect for layering and remixing with what you already have in your closet. But their prices are so, so good. They're really just a fraction of what pay elsewhere. By working directly with top artisans and cutting out the middleman, Quint gives you luxury without the markup. And the good news is it's not fast fashion. Quint only works with factories that use safe, ethical and responsible manufacturing practices and premium fabrics and finishes. So I'm going to tell you what I have my eye on. There's a lightweight cotton cashmere link stitch dolman sweater that is $39.90. I'm going to get it in black. I'm going to let the jewelry tell the story. They also have an amaz Italian leather hand woven satchel. It's $149.90 is the cost. They have an Italian leather small hand woven tote $129.90. It looks like it could be another big brand that's known for their woven leather goods and so much more. Honestly, their cashmere cotton blend dresses are so great. You could just throw on a big jean jacket with that. It's going to look fantastic and it's not going to break the bank. And even if you're based in Canada, your next trip over the border, just thank Quince. That's what I'm doing. So elevate your fall wardrobe essentials with Quince. Go to quince.com Breaking Beauty for free shipping on your order and 365 day returns. That's Quince Q-U-I-N-C-E.com Breaking Beauty to get free shipping and 365 day returns. Quince.com Breaking Beauty.
- [26:18]
C
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- [28:02]
A
I think Skinceuticals has one. I, I kind of keep my ingredients separate.
- [28:07]
C
Okay.
- [28:08]
A
I like to keep them separated.
- [28:10]
C
But you were saying before that you like a vitamin C in the morning and retin a at night. So is there brands or.
- [28:17]
A
Oh, okay. So yeah, we're talking about activity and, and shelf life right now.
- [28:22]
C
Yeah.
- [28:23]
A
So a lot of, a lot of companies are really looking into powder forms for your actives. One of the first powder form actives that I completely fell in love with was from Agent Nature.
- [28:34]
C
Oh, really? Oh, yeah. I never tried their sk.
- [28:37]
A
Oh, yes, girls.
- [28:39]
C
Yes.
- [28:40]
B
I've heard good things, but I haven't tried Agent Natur.
- [28:44]
A
So she has her vitamin C and a powder and then you liquefy it with her pearl essence. It's a hyaluronic base which is absolutely beautiful. There's also a new line that I'm really excited about called Exponent.
- [28:58]
C
And oh yeah, the Foster sisters are investing investors in that.
- [29:04]
A
Yes, they are. So they have all of their actives in powder. They have a retinol, a vitamin C and a CoQ 10. And again, the thing that's cool about their, we have to try it. Okay. Thing that's cool about their company is that there it's a perfect dose. So you, you get a dose, your perfect amount of powder in your hand and then it is also coming with a hyaluronic and then you kind of feel like a little chemist in the Bathroom. Yeah. And then made to order. Yeah. And the, the cool thing about this is also if you're new to retinol or you're new to vitamin C. Cause they can both be slightly irritating. If you're going crazy, they're. Because you're mixing them with the hyaluronic. You're getting a real nice, subtle introduction with the benefits, but without the, the scariness of it.
- [29:53]
B
Right. Okay, that's, that's good to know. What about retinol? Do you have a favorite that you like to recommend?
- [30:00]
A
Yeah, there's one like, like right at the Mexican border that you get from a Mexican pharmacy. I'm going to Mexico City. The pharmacies in Mexico, I've heard, been using their retinol for years. Anytime anybody, I would tell you now, I'm going to be like, let's do it back.
- [30:17]
C
Yeah.
- [30:17]
A
Yeah.
- [30:18]
B
Okay. Is there a brand name or.
- [30:21]
A
I can't understand it. I can't read it. I just carry a picture of it.
- [30:25]
B
That's so funny. Okay, we'll try and get a picture out of Gina's phone and post it on her website, I'm pretty sure.
- [30:32]
C
Don't they, like, compound a lot of stuff? Stuff for you? That's what I've heard. Yeah, it's like the compounding pharmacy. So people are like going there with like recipes for the skincare they want.
- [30:42]
B
Okay.
- [30:43]
A
Now we have to be careful.
- [30:44]
C
I don't. I've never done it myself. I'm not.
- [30:46]
A
I can't even believe I just said go get something illegally, basically.
- [30:50]
B
Right.
- [30:50]
C
No, listen, I'm sure it's all good, but it's just, I've read about all of this on Reddit. Yeah, all the skincare girlies are talking about this. So you're right there, quite frankly, a.
- [30:59]
A
A good old fashioned compounding pharmacy. When I, when I, I'm. I don't use this on clients, obviously. This is my own little stash. The retinol that I use is from a compounding pharmacy. Exactly.
- [31:11]
B
See, I've heard of French pharmacy. I have not heard of Mexican pharmacy. So you heard it here on Breaking Beauty, the next big thing.
- [31:20]
C
I was going to talk about it when I came back after I got sorted, but scooped I did.
- [31:27]
B
Okay, we're going to talk about perioral dermatitis. We're getting into the weeds here, honey. And I mean, I see this time and time again in Facebook chat rooms that, you know, the girlies are struggling. They're posting photos again. Their peers are saying, like, probably best to go See a dermatologist. But is there a relatively easy fix that you've seen your clients, like, try first, or you recommended it or something that they should not be doing that. If they just stop doing it, it might go away.
- [32:01]
A
Perioral dermatitis. I. I struggle with it myself. Usually it comes when I'm product testing. So for me, it's triggered with something my skin does not like. So I like to kind of strip away every product that you're using. Go to basic, Basic natural, and then you can start to bring them back into your routine. You'll usually find a culprit in there. Having said that, that the unfortunate fast cure for perioral are topical steroids. And we don't want to be using that on our skin forever. Same with eczema, psoriasis. Unfortunately, a lot of these skin conditions come under dermatitis, which is just like the blanket for everything.
- [32:43]
C
Irritation.
- [32:43]
A
Yeah, it's just inflammation. Irritation. Yeah. So I think that it's usually a reaction to something that they don't know that they're using. It can even be toothpaste.
- [32:55]
B
Yeah, I've heard toothpaste a lot, and I can believe that.
- [32:58]
C
What does it look like again? I don't remember.
- [33:01]
B
Well, if you look closely.
- [33:04]
A
It'S. It's a little bit of a. Flares and it goes. It can get itchy and spicy, and then it can retract, but it's. It's red. And it's usually just in this area.
- [33:16]
C
Yeah, right around it.
- [33:17]
B
Around the mouth.
- [33:17]
A
Right.
- [33:17]
B
Perioral.
- [33:18]
C
Right, Right.
- [33:19]
B
Although I've heard it can be around the eye too. Right. Perioral.
- [33:24]
A
That would tend to be, I think, more of an eczema or a nuts. Rice is necessarily.
- [33:30]
B
Okay.
- [33:31]
C
Yeah. The steroids is. They really work. But I just.
- [33:34]
A
They're just a bare.
- [33:35]
C
It's a slippery slope.
- [33:37]
A
It's such a slippery slope. And if we're talking about steroids. I was texting with a client yesterday and she was freaking out about a pimple. Freaking out, Freaking out. I am not into cortisone shots.
- [33:47]
C
Shots. Yeah.
- [33:48]
B
Interesting.
- [33:49]
A
No, I can't stand them. I really do not like cortisone shots. Because talk about a band aid. You're injecting a band aid in there, but you're not getting rid of the actual problem. And what will happen. And this I've seen with a lot of, like, maybe people that suffered from acne 10, 15, 20, or 30, 40 years ago, it was steroid injections. Cortisone. Cortisone. Cortisone and they end up with these divots, you know, all over your face. Cause it can decrepit the tissue if you're doing too much cortisone. What will also happen? And this might be gross and off topic, but since you're not actually. It's not releasing the fluid, if you will, or the pus or the infection, whatnot. It's just stifling it. So then what will happen is this fluid that really just wanted to come out, then turns into these little grains of sand, these little tiny seeds that then we have to go in and.
- [34:41]
C
Get out an extraction.
- [34:43]
B
Right?
- [34:43]
C
Yeah. Yeah.
- [34:44]
A
Well, we have to go find them.
- [34:45]
C
Yeah.
- [34:46]
A
So if anybody is dealing with a pimple, find yourself an esthetician that will. You can have on speed dial.
- [34:52]
C
That's.
- [34:52]
A
And this is how I talk with my clients. Like, don't freak out. Don't think you need to wait four weeks for your next appointment. Come call me if you have a pimple. I'll get it. It's no big deal.
- [35:01]
B
Yeah, because for. For years, we've asked people like, what do you. Facialists. Like, what do you do if your celebrity client is on the red carpet in two days and they've got a. A huge wailing zit? And they've said at that point, right, you.
- [35:15]
C
You get the photo. Well, Derm certainly would say that. And.
- [35:19]
A
And listen, I will agree. If you're getting married, you're red carpet. Like, you know, we'll figure out the seeds later, you know, so if It's a mayday S.O.S. yeah, fine.
- [35:29]
B
Okay. Yeah, fair enough.
- [35:31]
C
Okay. Fascinating.
- [35:33]
B
So visible pores. This is a big issue that I personally have. I'm in my late 40s, and, you know, I find as I get older, it becomes more and more visible. But my daughter, who's 14, she. The pores around her nose are what bothers her the most as well. So is it possible we should be using the same thing, or should we be using something different to address that issue?
- [35:59]
A
Well, okay, so I'm 54, and I noticed, like, yeah, if I get a pimple, I got. Will actually divot faster as I'm older now, because we're not. Our cells aren't turning over as fast. And, you know, our repair and rejuvenate stage is. However, for your daughter. It's different for us than it is for that type of age. For that age, the teenage age, their cells are cranking through. They're stimulating. They. They're turning over every six to 10 days. Every ours. Mine are turning over, like, every 60 days at this point.
- [36:39]
B
Yeah.
- [36:40]
A
So to address that activity, that's maybe a different product than what you would use for yourself, because she's a little bit more clean and clear.
- [36:50]
B
Yeah.
- [36:50]
A
And we're a little bit more hyaluronic, you know?
- [36:53]
B
Yeah. Okay, so what do you have recommendations for both of us, like, product wise.
- [36:58]
A
Product wise for the younger generation? You know, it just depends. Some, again, will be super drawing. There's actually a company that I'm pretty kind of happy with their line. I think they might turn out to be, like, the proactive of this generation and Face Reality.
- [37:17]
C
Yes. Yeah.
- [37:18]
B
Okay.
- [37:19]
C
We were going to work with them, I think, last year. Carlene.
- [37:21]
B
Okay, well, call us, because we're talking about you.
- [37:26]
C
But Sophie Pavitt carries us.
- [37:28]
A
It.
- [37:28]
B
Oh.
- [37:29]
C
I walked in and I was like, yeah. Do you carry it at your.
- [37:33]
A
I do not carry it.
- [37:34]
C
Okay.
- [37:34]
A
No. So. So for me, the products that I love, by the way, I do have a product that you and your daughter would love.
- [37:42]
B
Okay.
- [37:43]
A
So I'm big on. Again, like we talked about earlier, not over drying acne. And there is a company, there's a product line called Goldfed&MD. I'm super loyal to them. I carry them. I love them. And. And they have a mask called facial detox that will knock the heck out of anything that you're dealing with. You and your kiddo, you, all of us, we can all use it.
- [38:09]
C
Okay.
- [38:10]
B
All right.
- [38:10]
A
It's not drying, and you can actually spot treat. Leave it overnight. I love to. If I'm feeling broken out or I need a refresh, I like to start with their fresh appeal. Leave that on. It's a chemical exfoliant for two, three minutes. I think the label says, too. So follow the label.
- [38:26]
B
Okay.
- [38:26]
A
And then follow it up with a facial detox. And you. It's great. Great for all ages.
- [38:32]
C
Amazing.
- [38:32]
B
20 bucks. That facial detox mask.
- [38:34]
A
It is my go to, literally. My daughter and I were running around our. Where we were this week. I had, like, spots all over the place, and it was just. It's the best.
- [38:45]
B
I'm on it.
- [38:46]
C
Back to Face Reality, what product do you love from them?
- [38:49]
A
I can't say I have one specific that I love. I've just been kind of playing.
- [38:53]
C
I.
- [38:54]
A
So I'm playing with it right now. And what I do like about it is that it's not crazy overdrawing.
- [39:00]
C
Yeah.
- [39:00]
B
They do have an 8% L mandelic serum.
- [39:03]
C
Yeah.
- [39:04]
A
It's a little tactile, if I'm remembering correctly, but okay. Most Serums, if you're kind of interesting to call it a serum, but.
- [39:11]
C
Yeah, yeah.
- [39:12]
A
Like a gel.
- [39:13]
C
Right.
- [39:13]
A
I would say.
- [39:14]
B
Okay, now for sensitive skin, you touched on that. What's one of the biggest misdemeanors? Because the thing was a misdemeanor.
- [39:22]
C
Yeah.
- [39:23]
B
Like the mistake you could be making.
- [39:24]
A
Yeah.
- [39:25]
B
Because the reality with sensitive skin is you could have oily skin, you could have dry skin, you could have acneic skin. So what's one thing that people get wrong quite often when you have sensitive skin?
- [39:36]
A
I think that sometimes if people are labeled sensitive, then they'll stay away from certain actives. And that's not necessarily the case. Maybe you don't use the retinol from Mexico. Maybe you use a gentler one or something from Face Reality or a combo of other ingredients in there to kind of gently give them the retinol. So sensitive skin doesn't mean you can't use everything. It just means you're going to use less. And you also have to test it out and see how you're doing with it.
- [40:10]
B
Right.
- [40:10]
A
Live with it for a minute. And don't judge products so quickly. I do find that some people will use a product and go, I didn't work.
- [40:18]
B
Right. Right.
- [40:19]
A
How long did you use it?
- [40:20]
B
That's a good thing.
- [40:21]
A
If you have a reaction immediately, don't. But if you're just like, I don't know if I see anything. Just have some peace with it and just chill out.
- [40:29]
C
Yeah.
- [40:30]
A
Yeah.
- [40:31]
B
Now there's so many formulas of retinol that claim to be gentle enough for sensitive skin.
- [40:37]
A
Yeah.
- [40:38]
B
But I. I have sensitive skin and rosacea, so I can tell you that I've tried a lot of those and I still suffer. So what's.
- [40:46]
A
Yeah. If you are suffering from rosacea. Rosacea. Then you have to be so careful with your retinols. I would try the. The exponent.
- [40:55]
B
Okay.
- [40:55]
A
Yeah.
- [40:56]
B
All right.
- [40:56]
A
I like it.
- [40:57]
B
Okay.
- [40:58]
A
Especially because, like we said, you're mixing it with you. First of all, it's active, it's in powder. Then you can also use half the dose. If you want to use a quarter of the dose and you're mixing it with your hyaluronic. So you're still getting.
- [41:10]
B
Right.
- [41:11]
A
Yeah. Okay.
- [41:12]
C
Thank you.
- [41:13]
B
I want to ask you, I've heard before that some people believe that you want to do your steps in between skincare. You want to get the next step on really quickly to help with absorption. So your skin is, like, kind of wet. So it's like you do your face wash before it Gets bone dry. You do your toner before it gets bone dry, you do your serum and you keep.
- [41:33]
A
That sounds really string that.
- [41:35]
B
I've heard that before. But then I've also heard more recently, some people saying with like a serum, for example, that you actually want to let it set, so to speak, before you get your moisturizer on. So you actually want to leave it for like 10 minutes. Minutes and go and do something else and then come back.
- [41:53]
A
I. I would say. Yeah. So with. With say, like a toner, if you're using toner and you know that your next step will be a serum or a moisturizer, if you use your toner, immediately put that product on.
- [42:06]
B
Okay.
- [42:06]
A
But breathe a minute. Give yourself exactly 10, 15 minutes before you start layering on other stuff. You may not need it.
- [42:14]
B
Right?
- [42:15]
A
Yeah. So if there's a rush to put five products on, you probably only need two.
- [42:21]
B
Right.
- [42:21]
C
That's when you get pilling as well.
- [42:22]
A
But do you think Major pill, right?
- [42:24]
B
Oh, that's a good point.
- [42:25]
C
Yeah.
- [42:25]
B
But do you think it's needed to just, like, let it do its work?
- [42:29]
A
Absolutely.
- [42:29]
B
Okay.
- [42:30]
A
Yeah. If we're spending this type of money, I mean, we really need to. This is going to sound kind of cheesy, but honor the process. These people. These people took to making a product line is not easy. And just like, let them do their thing. If they don't work for you, they don't work for you.
- [42:47]
C
You.
- [42:47]
B
How do you know it's not easy, Gina?
- [42:50]
C
I.
- [42:50]
A
Don't you have any secrets?
- [42:54]
B
She's like a.
- [42:54]
C
Have you dabbled? Have you dabbled? I mean, it would just. It would make so much sense.
- [43:02]
A
Another really great toner that you can use as a micellar water in the morning if you don't feel like washing your face for tuna's micellar essence is really beautiful.
- [43:13]
C
Yeah, I like it too. I just don't like the applicator, but that's okay.
- [43:18]
A
The shake. I agree.
- [43:19]
B
Yeah.
- [43:20]
A
Sorry. Yeah, sorry, guys.
- [43:22]
C
I told them. I've told them that directly. I think it needs a better. It's too hard because with, like, bioderma and stuff, it's like. It's squeezable, you know?
- [43:30]
B
But anyway, yeah, we can't be perfect, so it's okay. You're gonna pass.
- [43:35]
A
Yeah.
- [43:35]
C
There. It's still stunningly beautiful. And let's talk about sunscreen. We need every esthetician who comes on our show to talk about their favorite. What is your favorite and why? Being in LA especially.
- [43:46]
A
I hate to give you this answer. Right now, I do not have a favorite sunscreen.
- [43:50]
C
Okay.
- [43:51]
A
I have hunted, I have searched, I have gone up and down supergoop. I think there. I do not like chemical sunscreens. I am a mineral sunscreen girl. And you know, for years people have been trying to come up with a great mineral that's not making you look like Kabuki white and crazy. Agent Nature. I'm going to go back to agent nature. She just launched what she's. I think it's called Sundrops. It's a serum.
- [44:17]
C
Okay.
- [44:18]
A
With an SPF 50.
- [44:20]
C
Okay.
- [44:20]
A
And I've been playing with that. I'm super excited about it. And yeah, I'm again, I'm in my very first. I've maybe used it three or four times.
- [44:29]
C
Okay.
- [44:30]
A
So.
- [44:31]
C
And what about ELTA md?
- [44:33]
A
I'm not a fan.
- [44:34]
C
Not. You don't like it?
- [44:35]
A
I'm sorry.
- [44:36]
C
That's fair.
- [44:37]
A
People love it.
- [44:37]
C
It's very personal.
- [44:38]
A
I do not like it.
- [44:39]
C
Yeah, that's me. And super.
- [44:41]
B
This one from the sunscreen company. This one is legit.
- [44:44]
C
We all need the SPF. Are you a believer in SPF? I assume 100%. Yeah. Okay, listen, I grew up in Burbank.
- [44:51]
A
Baking in baby oil on the.
- [44:52]
C
Yeah, I know. It was a. It's.
- [44:55]
A
Yeah.
- [44:56]
C
What. What was. What is everybody in Beverly Hills or in your practice? What are people coming in and asking you for treatments right now? What's trending?
- [45:04]
A
Well, you know what? I'm really excited about Isone therapy.
- [45:07]
C
Yeah.
- [45:08]
A
Super.
- [45:09]
C
Can you explain it in 30 seconds or can't. I wish I could.
- [45:14]
B
Nobody can.
- [45:15]
A
Nobody can. I have sat in on so many zooms and this and we can build a pancreas with it. And I'm like, but, but how? Exosome therapy. The results are so beautiful. Listen, the basis of it is also like prp. All of it. It's great. But I'm sorry, I don't want my 54 year old PRP. I want your daughters. You know, like, I want the act of healthy stuff. Yeah. So there's been all these things of how can we create this without, you know, eating placenta? Like.
- [45:46]
C
Yeah, yeah, 100%. 100% true. Yeah, I know. Like there's. And you know, the exosomes and how they're sourced is important. There's vegan ones and I was like, I don't want those. I want the human ones.
- [45:55]
A
I want the human. Yeah.
- [45:56]
C
And they're amazing.
- [45:58]
A
So many different brands and. And Exosome therapy, it's like a baby. Like you have to have it in a freezer. It's like in a powder form. You got to mix it down. It's like very special. It's.
- [46:07]
C
And any brands that have impressed you. You with.
- [46:10]
A
Yeah, but it's a medical brand. It's a. Yeah, for professionals. Only for professionals.
- [46:15]
C
Oh, we got to go see Gina to get. Yeah, you guys got to come in.
- [46:17]
B
Oh, my God. I need an invite. We're gonna. We're gonna hold Gina to that.
- [46:24]
C
So exosomes. Anything else? Because I feel like it's always leading the charge in LA with treatments or.
- [46:29]
A
What'S next, you know, Exosomes. And it's, you know, I'm kind of like to stay away from too many treatments that are multifaceted. Meaning, like Morpheus. It's micro needling, radio frequenc, LED light. I'm like, no, let's just keep it basic. Like, let's do this, do that, and then do that. So I'm LA can also be very like, well, what's next? I'm like, you know, I've had for. I've. I'm super grateful that I've had some clients that I've had for 20 years. Right. And so oftentimes, like, oh, my girlfriend just did this.
- [47:02]
C
And I'm like, I. I can only.
- [47:03]
A
Imagine you've been doing that for 20 years. What do you mean?
- [47:06]
C
I have.
- [47:06]
A
And I. I'm like, yeah, yeah. Or like, have you heard of this Hydrafacial? And I'm like, yeah, it's right there.
- [47:13]
C
You know?
- [47:15]
A
So, I mean, a lot of what's next is let us have our time, develop something really cool, research it, and then announce it again. So Exosome therapy is super exciting to me. Whether you're microneedling it in or how you're doing it. Really great. LED light therapy will always be my go to. Through for everything.
- [47:36]
B
Right.
- [47:36]
A
And at my age, the radio frequency. But radio frequency standing alone. I'm not into it with everything.
- [47:45]
B
Really.
- [47:45]
A
No. I just let each specific device, they're going to perform the best when you start. And again, I'm going to get hate for this, but when you start putting too many modalities together, somebody's going to take a backseat. And I want each treatment to be at full power. So again, you know, I know that's not a popular opinion, but that's one, right?
- [48:09]
B
No, no. Treatment cocktailing.
- [48:11]
A
You can treatment cocktail, but I prefer. But I treatment cocktail all day long, but it's with 15 different machines. So that's. That's kind of my thing.
- [48:20]
C
Yeah, I appreciate that.
- [48:22]
A
Yeah.
- [48:22]
B
Thank you so much for your time today. This has been so much fun.
- [48:26]
C
Thank you so much.
- [48:26]
A
Thanks guys.
- [48:27]
C
This is awesome.
- [48:29]
B
Thanks for listening. You can find details on every product mentioned in today's episode, along with our exclusive promo codes on our blog @breaking beauty podcast.com While you're there, be sure.
- [48:39]
C
To sign up for our newsletter. Every episode will be delivered directly to your inbox so you won't miss a.
- [48:44]
B
Single thing and get social with us. Let us know what you think of the episode. You can follow us on Instagram at Breaking Beauty Podcast.
- [48:52]
C
And did you know we also have a private Facebook group? Just search Breaking Beauty Podcast chat room.
- [48:56]
B
You can even leave us a voicemail at any time with questions or feedback at 1-844-227-0302.
- [49:04]
C
And don't forget to subscribe to us wherever you get your podcast fix. Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts and Apple Podcasts where you can show us some love by writing a review.
- [49:14]
B
See you.
- [49:33]
A
Please note that this episode may contain.
- [49:34]
B
Paid endorsements and advertisements for products and services.
- [49:38]
A
Individuals on the show may have a.
- [49:40]
B
Direct or indirect financial interest in products or services referred to in this episode.