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Jill Dunn
The following podcast is a dear media production. Welcome to Breaking Beauty the podcast. All about the breakthrough people, products and moments in beauty. We're your hosts, Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins.
Carlene Higgins
Welcome back to Breaking Beauty Podcast, everyone. We're two beauty editors turned beauty podcasters here here every Wednesday with the breakthrough people, products and moments in beauty.
Hey Carlene.
Jill Dunn
We are here again, another Wednesday together.
Carlene Higgins
We're excited today because we're diving into a topic that our listeners are obsessed with. We are obsessed with. We can't get enough of it. Constantly trending and that is K Beauty. What else? We're all about covering trends, but we need the expert voices, right, to be able to shed light on what is actually happening. Because there's so much noise on the Internet about K Beauty and to break down and separate the science from the flow bluff. We have an amazing expert. We are thrilled to welcome a guest who truly bridges the worlds of dermatology and Korean aesthetics. And that's Dr. David Kim.
Yes. And Dr. Kim is a board certified dermatologist and expert in lasers, fillers, toxins. He received his medical degree from Stanford University and holds a master in public health nutrition from Columbia University as well.
And he's really known for his signature subtle improvements that make a big natural difference. And as a native Korean, he travels to Seoul frequently to immerse himself in the newest techniques and treatments, bringing that innovation back to his Manhattan practice.
Jill Dunn
And on the Today show where I.
Carlene Higgins
See him quite often.
Yes. His mission is to educate the public about year round sun protection and that's what inspired him to create his award winning SPF brand. It's called Lightsaber and it launched on Sephora.com as well. And of course we have to mention the big news. Dr. Kim is imminently opening his own highly anticipated practice called Soho Derm. So that's majorly exciting as well.
Jill Dunn
And for our listeners who are tuning.
Carlene Higgins
In to us, maybe for the first time, you're fans of Dr. Kim discovering our show. We also are publishing this episode on YouTube, so follow us there. Which is Breaking Beauty Podcast. So with all of that, welcome Dr. David Kim.
Dr. David Kim
Thank you so much for having me.
Carlene Higgins
Thank you.
Dr. David Kim
So nice to meet you all.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah, you too.
Let's start at the beginning with your unique perspective. You're going between Manhattan and Seoul. What is the biggest difference in K Beauty's core principles and approach to beauty compared to what you see here in.
Dr. David Kim
New York, there are a lot of similarities and differences. I feel like when it comes to K Beauty or people in Korea who seek these Treatments regularly. They are very focused on prevention. So they start from a very early age, mid to late 20s, early 30s. They start playing with different types of treatments. And there's so many treatments that are available overseas that are not available here. Right. I feel like the US is usually one of the last places to get the FDA approval to get the devices here. They start with a little bit of injectable. So like rejuran is so hot right now. The salmon sperm DNA. Yeah, everyone's doing it. Everyone's skin's so glowy and plump and hydrated. People start with little bit of laser, like Pico laser for pigment or like a very gentle lifting devices like Zurf Thermage. Probably less Ultherapy. Ultherapy. People start doing it in their early 30s, mid-30s in the U.S. i feel like people start to come see a dermatologist when they have a problem or if there's something that they want to fix or improve. And a lot of people will actually in the past two years, I will say more people have been coming in sooner, late 20s, early 30s. And they start wanting to learn more about different treatments and different options that are available and see what's appropriate for them. I think another op. Another big difference is in Asia they, the looks that they want are a little bit different. They like more X shaped, heart shaped, cuter, little fuller looks. Whereas in the States they want more sharp, contoured, snatched, snatched looks. Whether it's the cheekbones, the jawline, the chin or the lips, it's all about that bone structure. Yeah, exactly.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
So it's all about the bone structure. And I think the, the aesthetic goals are a little bit different.
Carlene Higgins
It's like carve out the cheek.
All that's like V. What do they call it in South Korea or in Seoul?
Dr. David Kim
It's like the V line. V shape? Yeah, sculpting, which is not that different from here. But I think that's what everyone wants. They want their heart, their face to be heart shaped. So it's a little bit wider and as it goes down to the chin that is a little bit narrower because it's a little bit more feminine when you look at that face.
Carlene Higgins
Well, it's interesting because I remember hearing one plastic surgeon on social media and they were talking about how actually if you look at a lot of really famous women actresses who in history have been thought of being conventionally really beautiful, he was saying how if you actually cut off their eyes and just looked from the mouth down, they actually have very broad jaw, very broad jawline. And I didn't realize that. And then I kind of started doing that and I realized, oh yeah, that's a very. That actually it's that back to that bone structure, which to me is like the opposite of the, the V shape.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah, it is, it is. And it isn't because you need structure in your jaw to keep things more lifted. Right. And so there's a balance. So if you, if you over augment the jaw, then you're going to masculinize your face, but if you weaken the jaw by doing too much masseter Botox, for example, to thin your face, then you're not going to have the support and you're going to start developing jowls. And so what is that delicate balance between using all different lasers and injectables to achieve that perfectly balanced look that gives you that shape, that gives you that distinct sharp jawline without masculinizing your face if, if that's what you want. And then without having heavy gels, that's kind of the, that's where you have to kind of balance different treatments.
Carlene Higgins
Right.
Have you personally done the salmon sperm.
Dr. David Kim
Facial on my face? Yes, I have done it not as an injectable, but in combination with microneedling. But I was really, I didn't, I really wanted to do it. I just didn't have time to do it this past October when I was in Korea.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah. What's your review?
Dr. David Kim
It's so interesting. So seven sperm DNA sounds new, but it's actually not new. It's been around in Korea since 2014, so it's been around for 10 plus years and there's so much research around it. And they're actually now looking into other things more than skin, hair, joint health. So they're actually injecting into joints for hip replace after hip replacement surgeries or any trauma to the joints to see if it can help accelerate the recovery. And there's a lot of research happening in Southeast Asia, actually Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam. And they're looking at how that PDRN can stimulate fat cells to produce younger fat skin cells, fat cells. And that's actually really interesting too. And so it's not this like new trendy thing that started came out of nowhere on TikTok. It's been really well studied and it's by a pharmaceutical company called Pharma Research in Korea. And the Reguron is a brand within that company and they're heavily, heavily invested in innovation and research and it's really impressive actually.
Carlene Higgins
Do you think topically in a cream.
Dr. David Kim
It'S doing anything so it's very good question. So even within Ridgeron there, and I'm not paid by Ridgeron to see this, any of this. I'm not sponsored. But the injectable form is called polynucleotide and then the cosmetic form is polydeoxyribonucleotide. So they're slightly different. And then the molecular size is slightly smaller for the cosmetics so that it will actually get absorbed onto the skin. And then Rejuran has their own patent on something called DOT technology. I think it's called DNA optimizing technology where they've done studies and designed the mole molecules to a size that will actually get absorbed to the skin. And so that's why polynucleotide has to be injected into skin. But PDRN can be applied topically.
Carlene Higgins
Okay.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
Okay. So have you ever brought back a PDRN product that you like?
Dr. David Kim
Of course.
Carlene Higgins
Like what?
Dr. David Kim
I mean, they have. There's several different types. So Ridgeron has a really good product called the Dual Effect Ampoule. I love that product. It's super hydrating, it's lighter in texture than most of their products and it's just, it gives you a really nice glow and it's not heavy. I have very oily, acne prone skin, so I try. I always look for products that are fast absorbing, that doesn't feel sticky on the skin, that doesn't make my skin greasy and suffocated. And it's really hard to find products like that. I'm very particular. I can tell right away within five seconds if I like the product or not. So Reguran has a really good one. Dr. Regirol is another brand that went viral last year. It's developed by a pharmacist in Korea and their product is really excellent too. And they have this retinol cream that you can use at night that's also mixed with tranexamic acid, PDRN and retinol. And it's really gentle on the skin, so it's great for people who have sensitive skin. Yeah, I think those two are my favorites right now.
Jill Dunn
I need those.
Carlene Higgins
Try it.
Yeah, I need salt. Yeah, you really do. Well, can you get them here?
Can you get them here or Amazon?
Dr. David Kim
Yeah, you get them on Amazon.
Jill Dunn
Say less so Affordable.
Carlene Higgins
That's the thing.
Beauty.
It's what's amazing.
Dr. David Kim
Sa.
Jill Dunn
Skims is one of our show partners this week. Okay, story time, everybody. I must fill you in on the lore behind the Skims Fits Everybody collection. As someone who has a D cup, I was a little skeptical at first that A bra truly could be Fits everybody. But I am in love with the Scoop Bralette from Skims. The full name is the Fits Everybody Scoop Bralette. First of all, I love how size inclusive it is and I really love how shade inclusive it is as well. So everybody can find their version of naked or neutral. And it's just so comfortable. The fabric is buttery soft, it has a second skin effect and the band, it's snug enough that you feel like you're really supported but it, it doesn't dig into you. It doesn't feel uncomfortable ever. And the straps themselves, they're really skinny and they are adjustable so they don't dig into you at all and you can get your exact fit. I love to wear it underneath sweaters and I also appreciate that you can wear it all season long even if you have tank tops. It's just a brilliant design. Honestly, I love this bra so much I have it in like three colors. So if you want to try Skims yourself, you can shop Skims Fits Everybody collection@sky skims.com after you place your order, be sure to let them know we sent you select podcast in the survey and be sure to select our show that's breaking beauty in the drop down menu that follows. And if you're looking for the perfect gift for your valentine or for yourself, the Skims Valentine shop is now open. We'll link to this URL in our show notes and on our website. Now back to the show.
Katie Lee Beagle
Have you ever heard the saying, tell me what you eat and I will tell you who you are? I'm Katie Lee Beagle and I'm food obsessed with you. Tune into my podcast all on the Table and get to know celebrities, boldface names and industry insiders in an all new way as they share the ingredients that make their recipe for life.
Jill Dunn
I want to know it all, from.
Katie Lee Beagle
The favorite childhood birthday cake to the breakfast they eat every day. An engagement meal in Paris or a guilty pleasure fast food indulgence.
Dr. David Kim
You can tell a lot about a.
Katie Lee Beagle
Person by what's in their fridge. And hey, everybody's got to eat. Make sure to tune in every Thursday and follow so we can devour every last morsel together. We're putting it all on the table.
Carlene Higgins
So let's talk a little bit about glass skin. Is that still an aspirational thing to have in K Beauty or is it kind of that?
Is a baby on to something else?
Dr. David Kim
Yeah, I feel like glass skin is always going to be in. I feel like it was in when my parents were in their 20s. I always be around. It just means like glowy, even plump skin, hydrated skin. Right. Who doesn't want that? I want that.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
I don't want to look shiny and greasy, but I want to look plump and hydrated and rejuvenated. Right. And I think that's what always people want. And it's, it's going to require a combination of different skin care and treatments to really achieve that.
Carlene Higgins
But not one ingredient.
Dr. David Kim
There's no. Not one ingredient.
Carlene Higgins
Right.
Dr. David Kim
There's no trick, there's no one treatment that will get that, give that to you. You have to do your research. You have to do. You have to use the products and find the products that really work for your skin.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah, I do find that for myself. Like the lasers have been game changing in the way of like evening out my tone.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah, exactly.
Carlene Higgins
I do the XL and broadband light and I feel like those have been game changers. You mentioned pico laser.
Dr. David Kim
Laser, yeah.
Carlene Higgins
What's that? I need to do that.
What is that?
Dr. David Kim
Pico laser is great.
Carlene Higgins
Do I need to do that?
I think everybody does.
Dr. David Kim
Everyone. A lot of people do it in Asia. It helps with pore size, also helps with pigment. So, you know, when you have pigmentary disorders like melasma, it's really hard to do laser treatments in general because any heat and trauma can actually make melasma worse. So number one, you have to prep your skin. You have to be on a brightening skincare regimen, especially if you have darker skin, at least for two to three weeks so that your skin's prepped and then you can do a gentle laser and then eventually work your way up. That's what I do. That's how I approach it. I start with a conservative treatment and then the second time, the third time, I will increase the energy each time because now I have a reference point. Right. Instead of just blasting someone's face, which can potentially make your melasma a lot worse, and when you have a lot of pigment, you have to be really careful sometimes. Laser is actually not the answer. Having a really good skincare routine with prescription creams and over the counter creams can make your melasma a lot better than doing laser treatments, because laser treatments can actually make it worse. And there are so many other things. Tranexamic acid, you can take it as a pill as well, which is so widely done in Asia and Europe too. And people are more people are doing it here today in the States too. Have you heard of transamic acid as a pill?
Carlene Higgins
Yes.
Not as a pill.
I'm sorry, we were going to ask you about this.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
Because Jill, you were saying you were on the Olive Young website. Right. And they had like a whole section on transomic acid. Yeah. Whereas it feels like, well, just like supplements and stuff. Whereas it feels like Sephora has kind of been like, we're out, not interested. So there's definitely a distinction there.
Dr. David Kim
It's interesting supplements. We definitely need more evidence. There's just no, like clear science behind it. But I'll tell you, I have a, like a 78 year old uncle in Korea who takes supplements, collagen supplements, every day. Yeah, he looks great.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
It's all anecdotal, really, more than research based. But we all know food, diet, lifestyle makes a huge difference. Right. So I think the key here is to not look for a quick supplement or quick fix because that never really, really works. It's not sustainable. It's. You really have to really change your lifestyle. Like you have to exercise, eat healthy, stay out of the sun, wear sunscreen every day, have a skincare routine, whether it's three steps or 10 steps, and then really be consistent with it. I feel like that's key.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
So boring.
Dr. David Kim
But it's all the stuff that we've already know.
Carlene Higgins
I know, but nobody wants to listen. We're like, we need the quick things.
Do you take any of those supplements like the transoxamic Trans.
Dr. David Kim
I don't know if I said transamic acid. So transamic acid is actually a prescription pill.
Carlene Higgins
Oh, is it prescription pill?
Dr. David Kim
Yeah, it's a pill and it actually works incredibly well for melasma. So if you've done laser treatments or if you don't want to do laser treatments, you've done hydroquinone, but hydroquinone irritates your skin. Transomic acid as a pill is a game changer. I even had a patient earlier today who took, who was struggling with melasma and the only thing that's worked for her is transamic acid. But. And all the dermatologists know this, but transamic acid can increase your risk for clot formation. So you have to do a screening test, you have to make sure that you are not genetically predisposed to forming clots. And some people don't do that. I think it's really crucial that you do these screening tests because I had a patient who was very healthy, she was a young female, struggled with melasma and I did my routine test and sometimes I do think, is this an overkill? Is this like really necessary. And she had a mutation called Factor 5 Leiden mutation, which is a pretty rare mutation. And it's usually subclinical, meaning people will go through their entire lives without knowing that they have that mutation. But if they go on birth control smoke, have history of migraines, or go on the medication, like transamic acid, it can tip them over and it can increase your risk for clot formation. And you don't want to. You don't ever want to take that risk.
Carlene Higgins
Right, of course.
Dr. David Kim
So then do the screening test. If you. If you are clear, then you can take this medication. And you don't take it all year round. You just take it during the peak summer months. So June, July, August, September.
Carlene Higgins
Interesting.
Dr. David Kim
So. And it will prevent your melasma from getting darker, bigger, worse. And then when you come off of it, it will have lingering effects. And your melasma will get so much better, whether it's on your cheeks, on your forehead, on your mustache area. And then obviously you have to be consistent with the skincare too. But that will make a big difference. Yeah, yeah.
Carlene Higgins
So that's by prescription only?
Dr. David Kim
Prescription only, yeah. Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
I wonder if it's in Canada as well. Do you know?
Dr. David Kim
I'm sure it is. Yeah, I'm sure it is. Yeah. Because it's available here.
Carlene Higgins
I haven't heard a lot about it. That's. That's great. I know. But you will see melasma really have trouble.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah, exactly.
Carlene Higgins
A solution.
Dr. David Kim
But you will see it in skincare a lot.
Carlene Higgins
Even like skincare.
Oh, definitely. Topically.
Dr. David Kim
Topically, exactly.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah. Okay. Yeah, that's. I'm literally googling the Health Canada right now.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
They are prescription only, but they are available.
Okay.
Dr. David Kim
It's usually 650 milligrams once a day.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Okay. Very cool. Oh, oh, interesting. It also helps with nosebleeds.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
Okay.
Dr. David Kim
That's why it increases your risk for clot formation.
Carlene Higgins
Of course.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah. Because it clots your blood.
Carlene Higgins
Right, yeah. So is it like essentially reducing the blood supply to, like, the melanocytes or something?
Dr. David Kim
Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
And then it's like, not going to pop up.
Dr. David Kim
She's so smart. My gosh. Well, you made that connection, like, right away on the spot. That was quite incredible, actually, because we don't know exactly how it works and why it works for melasma, but one of the theory is exactly that, that it will reduce circulation to your melanocytes and that's why they're not as active. Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
Okay. Okay, good tip.
Well, we're going to keep going on the Ingredient train. I do want to ask you about glutathione though, because is it a master antioxidant in your mind when it comes to a skincare ingredient? I did get sent a line by a doctor like a, a year ago or something. It was all around glutathione, which was pretty unique. And actually one of the products that it included was a spray that you were meant to spray, I guess, like.
Dr. David Kim
On your stomach or something for stretch marks or for.
Carlene Higgins
No, for like transorption. Like. Yeah, like the way that Dr. Dendy sprays magnesium on her belly. Right.
Okay.
It was like that.
Oh, no way.
Dr. David Kim
How does that work exactly?
Carlene Higgins
You're asking.
Dr. David Kim
It must be the formulation. Right. Like, I guess it's goes back to.
Carlene Higgins
The size of the molecule, but.
Dr. David Kim
And it's a liposomal encapsulated molecule so that it gets absorbed better on the skin. But it's interesting that it maybe the spray must be just the delivery that it's easier to apply that way, but because for things to be transdermally absorbed better, usually it comes in this form of a patch. Right. Because it has to stick to your skin for a while because things don't get absorbed right away. Right. But glarithine is an ingredient. I think it's a great ingredient. It does have brightening effects. No one knows exactly what, you know, how it says transamic acid, 4% niacinamide. Glutathione doesn't have like a very specific range of percentages that, that it should be required to have the brightening effect.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah, yeah.
Dr. David Kim
As much. But I think it's like, I mean, now you see nad like in skin care and I think it's just a very buzzy, trendy ingredient that.
Carlene Higgins
Guess what, we were going to ask you next.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah. But is it going to really stay and stick around? I don't know, because there's not. I, I Traditionally, if you look at all the ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, retinol, transamic acid, pdrn, the ingredients that stick around are the ones that are really well studied. Like it's based on evidence and science. All the other ones are just very trendy. They come and go. Even snail mucin, people don't use it as much anymore. It was so hot for five years, three to five years. It doesn't have as much research as all the other ingredients. So it does have skincare benefits, but does it have longevity? I'm not sure.
Carlene Higgins
Right. Yeah. Well, all the ingredients had to start somewhere. So I think you're Right. We just don't know yet.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah. Have you guys read the original papers for a skinceuticals vitamin C study? If you look at the original study, it was done at Duke and by a scientist in the 90s and there are multiple papers like vitamin C, YL, ascorbic acid and then they add vitamin E and ferulic acid and they. Yeah, it's like so easy to follow because this was so beautifully well designed and that's why it has this longevity. People are obsessed with it and they use it and they have a cult following and it makes sense because it's based on science, all the other ingredients. Maybe they will have that robust research and evidence eventually, but time will tell.
Jill Dunn
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Carlene Higgins
Me. Let's talk about spicul. Is this legit? The seea rle of it all.
Dr. David Kim
BT cosmetics, the se, the sika, the spicules. Yes, it's, it's legit, but you have to be really careful because they have like five different strength, like 500, 300, 700, and I think there may be a thousand. So I can only personally tolerate 50 and 100. So 100 means it's a, it's designed for you to use every day. 50, I think it's twice a day, morning and night. And the spicules do go into the skin and they're designed to be smaller than the size of your pores and they will help deliver the products better.
Carlene Higgins
And can we just get a recap on what the spicule is?
Dr. David Kim
It look, if you look at it under microscope, it looks like a needle. Yeah. Daggers. Yes, exactly. Yeah, yeah. Like little needles.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
It's not going to have the same effect as doing an in office treatment with microneedling or microneedling with radio frequency. But if you have large pores, if you have really sebaceous skin, if you have oily skin, and if you want to deliver your skincare products better, then it does help. You just can't overwhelm your skin. That and retinol and salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide and all these things all at once. You got to rotate and you got to give your skin a break.
Carlene Higgins
So the spicules one, are they all made from that sponge or are they made from different things?
Dr. David Kim
No, I actually don't know where they're made from.
Carlene Higgins
There's one that we tried that was these spicules were made from some kind of sponge and that's what creates sort of those little crystallines. And that's why they say like it's safe for the skin or whatnot. The one that we did was like a professional line, but then they had an at home one. So it was the different degrees like you said.
Dr. David Kim
What did it feel like?
Carlene Higgins
The one that I. So this is what I'm wondering for you because I tried the professional one with an esthetician and it was like it felt like crushed glass. Like she was massaging it in my skin. I was like, I swear to God, my face is bleeding. Like it felt like crushed glass.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
But what about you? What do these things feel like? These riddles, shots like that?
Dr. David Kim
They're very spicy.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
You feel despicably. You have this like spickly. Spickly is That a word?
Carlene Higgins
Sure.
Let's go there.
Dr. David Kim
Let's go with that sensation. And it tingles and it lingers on for a little bit. And I have.
Carlene Higgins
But it does not feel like crush class.
Dr. David Kim
No, not to that extent. Maybe if you use a really strong one. I'm just like, I'm just not going to go there. The 700. I think you're supposed to use it once a week. But I am a strong believer in doing something that's gentle more consistently than doing something really harsh and aggressive once a week.
Carlene Higgins
A thousand percent. But I want to ask you.
Okay.
There was a time when, you know, the apricot scrubs.
Dr. David Kim
Oh, my gosh.
Carlene Higgins
And the derms were like, do not. You're scratching your face. It's like physical harm.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
How is it that you can apply something that feels like crushed glass on your skin and that is not going to create microscopic tears or be damaging to your skin?
Dr. David Kim
Yeah. So don't.
Carlene Higgins
Riddle me.
Dr. David Kim
That's the apricots.
Jill Dunn
Riddle me.
Carlene Higgins
That's there for the taking.
Dr. David Kim
I love it. You're on the wall today. Oh, my gosh. The apricot scrub. That one's a physical exfoliant. Like you can actually feel the beads. Right. And it's. You can tell right after you apply it. It's like your skin's so dry.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
Like squeaky dry. Right. And that's never a good sign. That means it's just too strong on your skin. The real shot, it's so microscopic. And that's why I think the biggest mistake people can make is trying to be overly eager. Eager and using a product that's too harsh for the skin. But if you're using a product that's really gentle, that's microscopic and that's smaller than the size of the pores on the skin, it's not going to really damage your skin, but you just have to use a product that's right for your.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah. I mean, at this point, I've been doing this for 20 years. I just go with my gut on certain things. That one's a no for me. But that's.
Dr. David Kim
How did that feel after. How did your skin look afterwards? Terrible.
Carlene Higgins
Red. Red. F. But. But they were like, that's normal. But I have like low grade rosacea. Like 24 hours later, it was probably fine. But the day of it looked like I like it was quite drunk.
The thing was that they, like I said from the get go and I think you experienced it. Carlene was like it. It was quite drying. You were flaking off.
Dr. David Kim
Like you were flaking off afterwards.
Carlene Higgins
Later.
Dr. David Kim
Oh, wow. So it felt like more like a chemical peel.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah, yeah. Oh, yeah, yeah.
Dr. David Kim
These don't feel like the liquid micro.
Carlene Higgins
And also, like, two days later you.
Jill Dunn
Would touch your skin.
Carlene Higgins
You could still feel like it is.
Dr. David Kim
Oh, no way. Okay.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah. So I think it was just like professional treatment versus having tried both now.
Because at the time I had only tried that one. It's. I think it was called Beyond Miracles.
Dr. David Kim
Okay.
Carlene Higgins
I then subsequently tried microneedling, like, properly. And I would say the microneedling, I had less downtime.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
But at the same time, they are numbing your face.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah, exactly.
Carlene Higgins
And the liquid microneedling from Beyond Miracles, you could do it on active acne.
Jill Dunn
That was the other thing. Whereas microneedling.
Dr. David Kim
You can, you can.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
It's a whole thing.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah. I wouldn't do anything on active acne.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
Dr. David Kim
I would not do that.
Carlene Higgins
The doctor has spoken. Yeah.
Everyone talk about Korean skincare and the idea of how you apply it. Finger patting or slapping, does it really make a difference?
Dr. David Kim
Honestly, I don't know.
Carlene Higgins
That was going to be my question.
Dr. David Kim
I think it's just like a routine. Like, that's what we grew up seeing our moms do and our dads do. They apply and they tap to let it dry quicker. What people don't talk about is how we actually layer skincare. And I don't do this myself, but a lot of Koreans will apply a thin layer of moisturizer, wait for it to dry, and apply another layer.
Carlene Higgins
Right.
Dr. David Kim
So they apply multiple layers. And I think that's what makes it actually more unique because then you can apply more products more evenly instead of doing like five pumps and applying all over.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
Doing like one layer at a time.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
I think that's actually more beneficial than tapping or any of that.
Carlene Higgins
See, this is what. I can't remember who I brought this up with before, but, yeah, there's like different schools of thought. So some estheticians will be like, you want to get your steps on quickly because if you put on your, let's say, toner essence, you want to get your serum on quickly because it's going to help with absorption. Is the thought, the thinking.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah, yeah.
Carlene Higgins
And then same thing. You want to get the moisturizer on, on top of that serum, it's going to help to basically, like, suck it in. Like, so you don't have a dry sponge. It's not picking up anything.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
But then I feel like there's another school of thought that's like you want, you actually want to apply it, go away and do something and let it.
Dr. David Kim
Dry and then, and then reapply.
Carlene Higgins
So what say you as a derm?
Dr. David Kim
I don't really know if either really makes a difference, honestly.
Carlene Higgins
Okay, fair.
Dr. David Kim
Let's just start with having a solid skincare routine to begin with.
Jill Dunn
Okay.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah, Sounds good.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah. And I think one, if you have consistent routine, I think that's what more what's most important.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah. There, there's no studies to balance.
Dr. David Kim
Exactly.
Carlene Higgins
So. Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
But if you slap, like sometimes I will slap my face. If I had a really like salty meal the night before and I looked puffy, then I was slap for sure with cold water.
Carlene Higgins
And I like the ice night.
Why not stop drinking this water?
Dr. David Kim
I love it. But other than that, I. Day to day.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah. I'm not sure what is the number one question? Because you're seeing patients all day and we're so grateful you're spending time with us.
Dr. David Kim
I'm so happy to be here.
Carlene Higgins
What are they asking you about in your practice from a K beauty point of view? Because you are the K beauty.
Jill Dunn
Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
Like just, just. I'm curious because you're the expert around this town in, in this subject matter.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah. Right now there are two main things that I got consistently asked. One is, is salmon sperm DNA real? Yeah. And is it safe? Is it effective? When is it going to get FDA approved? And I think we already addressed that and see if it's effective. The other question that I get is how do I get a lift without any downtime? I don't want to get a facelift. Also, a lot of people have been asking me about facelifts. When is the right time to get a facelift? I'm seeing all this post on social media and the news about facelift face and really like the one standout moment was I have a 65, 66 year old female who is a breast cancer survivor. Beautiful. And she was like, Dr. Kim, every time I open social media I see something about a facelift and I feel pressure to get a facelift.
Carlene Higgins
That's the algorithm for you.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah. But I'm also like, if you are a 66 year old, year old breast cancer survivor and you feel pressure to get a facelift, there's a, there's a problem there. Right. And she's not someone who's obsessed with looking a certain way. She's a very minimal. She will come see me three to four times a year and we always have a lovely chat. And she's not the person who Cares about the tiny, tiniest little fine lines. She's not obsessed. So I was really shocked to hear that from her specifically. And then so. And then the conversation always shifts to like, what are the non surgical things that you can do? So there's a new treatment that just got FDA cleared in the United States called. It's called Zurf xcrf. It's a radio frequency based lifting treatment with minimal downtime and minimal pain. I don't know if you've heard of Thermage. Yes, Thermage. Super popular. A lot of people do it once a year, but it's very painful. It is effective, but it is very, very painful. And then so Zurf got approved in Korea two years ago and it made a splash because it has minimal downtime and the pain level is like 1 out of 10. You don't need topical numbing. You can come in and you can start right away. And what makes it unique is that it uses two different frequencies, so it can give you tightening on the superficial level and the deep level. So it's all the rage right now in Korea and it just made it over here. Now I do so many Zurfs.
Carlene Higgins
Really?
Dr. David Kim
Yeah, because people.
Carlene Higgins
I'm googling the before and after.
Jill Dunn
Zoom.
Carlene Higgins
Damn.
Dr. David Kim
And people love that treatment. And because now it's. It's all about how do I maintain and how do I lift my face without impressive injectable I'm seeing.
Carlene Higgins
Can you do your neck?
Dr. David Kim
You could do your neck.
Carlene Higgins
Can I do my.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah, absolutely. Yeah, yeah, you can do your neck. You can do a double chin jowls.
Carlene Higgins
Look at this jowling around the mouth. That's gone.
Yeah. Wow.
That's not surgery. That's crazy.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah, that's pretty crazy. Yeah.
Jill Dunn
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
Pretty crazy, right?
Carlene Higgins
How long would that last, that result?
Dr. David Kim
Usually it's six months.
Carlene Higgins
Okay.
Dr. David Kim
So I recommend patients to do it twice a year or so. The recommendation varies. And I think in Korea they do recommend people to do it one month apart. In my opinion, that's too close. And I think you can like wait a little bit longer and you can do the second treatment anywhere between four to six months, and then you will have equally good results and maybe potentially for longer. And you can. When you, when you do a treatment like that and you're stimulating your skin cells to produce more collagen, sometimes you'd still need injectables. Right. But you need less injectables because you're now tweaking it.
Carlene Higgins
Guys, you're saving money.
Jill Dunn
You're saving.
Dr. David Kim
You're saving money. Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
You can tell your husbands.
Dr. David Kim
You can space it out. You know, do treatments like ultherapy or reserve.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
Or thermage first. Wait, you know, six to eight weeks, tweak a little bit with a little bit of filler, and then you're really set for the rest of the year. And that way, it looks so natural. You don't look puffy. And again, you require less products by doing it that way.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Have you done it yourself, Zurif? Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah. Funny story. So when I was in Korea in October, I met with the people who built the device. I met the scientists. It's by a company called Lutronic Cynosure. And I met the scientist who designed the device, and I got treated by the lady who created the treatment guidelines that all the doctors.
Carlene Higgins
Incredible.
Dr. David Kim
She's done, like, 2,000 treatments. And I was, like, pushing the treatment guideline aside, I was like, give me the real tips. Give me the tips that you learned from. So the way I do it is slightly different because she gave me all these nuanced tips. That's not in the treatment guidelines, because treatment guidelines have to be very conservative and easy to follow. But there's a beauty and art into creating something that's more custom and different. Right. And I asked them, can you just treat the right side of my face?
Jill Dunn
No, you didn't.
Dr. David Kim
I did.
Carlene Higgins
No way.
In the name of science.
Jill Dunn
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
Dr. Kay. I'm gonna try it on my face first, and I'm gonna do just one half of my face, and I'll show you the photos. And I posted on my Instagram. Hundreds of people voted. I said, which side did I treat? And 65% guessed right.
Jill Dunn
Okay.
Dr. David Kim
And it was the right side. Yeah, it was sharper. It was more lifted. This was little bit. So a quick way to look at it is look at the distance between your mouth and the jaw. Is it narrow or is it wide? Because if we. When we sag, when we have laxity, the distance between the corner of your mouth and jaw will be wider, and it kind of masculinizes your face. And if it's lifted and sharp, then it will be narrower. And you can see the position of my cheekbones, and my jaw is sharper and smoother. And it was really interesting. It was a really fun exercise. And so when I came back six weeks later, I treated myself on the other side to balance it out. Yeah, but that was really fun. That was like.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
I was like, wow, I really see the difference. And after the treatment, it feels different. I don't know how to explain it other than to say your face does feel lifted.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
Okay.
Okay, cool.
Jill Dunn
Today's episode is brought to you in part by Oneskin. So I love hearing about the trending ingredients in skin care, but when it comes to my personal routine at home, I really go for products that have ingredients that have stood the test of time that are science backed. One of those ingredients is definitely peptides. Now not all peptides are built the same. So one of my go to brands is One skin. We interviewed the founder about a year ago. You can go back and have a listen. It tells you all about the whole science behind this brand. The before and afters are incredible.
Carlene Higgins
You can have a look on their.
Jill Dunn
Site, on their Instagram and they're really known for cult favorite formulas like OS one Body, OS one face and OS one Eye. I use the body cream on a regular basis. I'm just getting back into the face cream again. And One Skin stands out for their science first approach to aging. It's validated in four separate clinical studies to deliver hydration, barrier strengthening and visible improvements to the skin with every product. Now for me, because I have sensitive skin, I love that every formula is certified skin safe for sensitive skin dermatologist, tested free from over 1500 known irritating ingredients and it's been awarded the national eczema association seal of acceptance. So you're getting these powerful results without the irritation or harsh side effects. That's the perfect ideal that I am going for. So no wonder One Skin products have over 10,000 5 star reviews. Born from over 10 years of longevity research. One Skin's OS1 peptide is proven to target the cells that cause the visible signs of aging, helping you unlock your healthiest skin now and as you age. And we have a special promo code for a limited time, One Skin is making it even easier to stay consistent with 15 off when you use code BREAKING BEAUTY at One Skin Co slash BREAKING BEAUTY. That's 15 off with code BREAKING beauty. After you purchase, they'll ask where you heard about them. Please support our show and tell them that we sent you.
Carlene Higgins
We have to ask you about your sunscreen.
Jill Dunn
Oh yeah, it's called lightsaber.
Dr. David Kim
Lightsaber, yes.
Carlene Higgins
And of course Korean sunscreens are famous here in North America. So tell us how you kind of. But we also know that like we don't have the filters here that they have in Korea. So how did you go about creating yours? What do we need to know?
Dr. David Kim
So I really wanted to make a mineral sunscreen that felt really smooth and silky and that didn't feel chalky. But this all goes back to when I was in medical school, really. There was. When I was in medical school, I was very actively involved within the Department of Dermatology, an initiative called Sunsport. And this is how I why I love my mentors. Back at school, there was an initiative called Sunsport, and the goal was to educate NCAA athletes about the importance of sun protection. So we would offer free skin cancer screening to all NCAA athletes at Stanford every year. And without fail, at least 1 or 2 18, 19 year olds would have skin cancer. Yeah. Anywhere from basal cell, squamous cell to melanoma. And so. And what's interesting is a lot of the athletes know they should wear sunscreen, but they just didn't want to because they hated the way it felt. They hated the way it smelled. And they have to reapply it. And they're like, no.
Carlene Higgins
Or it stings when you're sweating, gets in your eyes.
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
So that was a real moment in my mind when I was a student. I was like, I really want to become a dermatologist and one day create a sunscreen that people actually want to wear. So that was the inspiration. And, you know, Fast forward, like 10 years later, that's when I decided to actually do something. It was like during COVID and I was like, okay, now I have time and the flexibility. Let's look into this. And I wanted it to be mineral. I wanted it to be gentle on sensitive skin. So all our products are national ECMO association approved, which was really important to me. And I. Every product required at least 12 to 13 iterations, because the. It just takes time to get the formula right. And I also wanted the sunscreen to actually have skincare ingredients and clinical levels, not marketing levels, but clinical levels. So our activated mineral sunscreen, prior to launch, I submitted for a lower base of beauty. This was pre. We didn't exist. Lifesaver did not exist. I submitted the sample in the white lab sample tube with a small card, and I sent it off to Conde Nas Allure. And I literally never thought anyone would find it, get it, read it, use it. And then it was amazing to find out that we won the award, like, even before we launched, like, just because.
Carlene Higgins
All of it's based on a lab sample. So it's not like they were taken away by the beautiful packaging.
Dr. David Kim
No, packaging like lightsaber did not exist even then. So. But I think they really understood the mission that we wanted to make mineral sunscreen. And we are working on chemical sunscreens too. But initially we Want to make mineral sunscreen feel really nice and velvety. That gave a sheer tint that actually has skincare benefits too. And I think they appreciated the mission and the dedication that went into formulating this product.
Carlene Higgins
Amazing to try it.
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
Oh, my gosh. I brought you a sample.
Carlene Higgins
I also need to ask about your news. Like, we're publishing this a little later. So you have some news around your clinic.
Dr. David Kim
Oh my gosh. My clinic. I know, I'm so excited. It's called soho Dermatology. It's going to be in soho, obviously, and it's going to be state of the art facility. I'm going to bring all the best products and treatments from Korea that are FDA approved that we can safely administer here. And I go to Korea all the time to learn different techniques from my derm colleagues there and we exchange information. So I want this to be a hub where you can really come learn about the latest, greatest innovations and try different treatments and have a customized plan that's perfect for your skin type. What I'm known for just like very minimalistic approach. So I never push products or treatments that people are not comfortable with. It's a place for you to come educate yourself and learn and just understand what treatments are even available because have the conversation overwhelming.
Carlene Higgins
Right.
Dr. David Kim
Like, what is microneedling? What's microneedling with radio frequency. Yeah. All the lasers. Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah. And I think more people are understanding. Well, I think the FDA can't coming out with that.
Jill Dunn
Not warning.
Carlene Higgins
But this is warning about.
Dr. David Kim
Oh, the radio frequency.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah. Like how these devices are administered.
Jill Dunn
And I think more and more people.
Carlene Higgins
Are like, I'm only gonna go to a dermatologist for these types of treatments because you understand the frequency. Dialing it up, dialing it down. You're doing it on yourself.
Dr. David Kim
Exactly. I treat myself before I bring anything to the office. I do it on myself first. Yeah. And I do it multiple times because it's. You have to get the settings. Right. Right. And you have to play with the settings and you have to. That's what makes you an expert. Right. Like you're not just following a manual. You have a manual as a reference. But you, you know better. So you tweak it the way it makes sense.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
And there are so many terrible stories that you don't hear about, you know?
Carlene Higgins
Yes.
Jill Dunn
Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
If someone's listening and they want to buy one cool K beauty product that you think is like so good.
Dr. David Kim
Oh my gosh.
Carlene Higgins
What do you recommend?
Dr. David Kim
That's a hard question.
Carlene Higgins
I know. I'm putting you right on the spot.
Dr. David Kim
But it's. It's really easy for me. There's a product, there's a brand called Estra.
Carlene Higgins
Okay.
Dr. David Kim
Have you heard of it? Is that how you say it?
Carlene Higgins
No. That's what we say. Probably not.
We could be wrong.
Dr. David Kim
My patients all love this brand. It's a number one derm recommended brand in Korea for sensitive skin.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
Their autobarrier365 cream is a phenomenal product. It's used. It was initially used only in hospitals and clinics, and because it was such a good product and people were asking for it, it became more commercialized, and now you can hear it. You can get a Sephora now, too. Yeah, on Amazon.
Carlene Higgins
It's a. It's like we always say, it's the La Roche Posay of Korea. Yeah.
It.
There's. It's unscented, and we love that line as well, so we will link to that. Guys.
Dr. David Kim
Yeah.
Carlene Higgins
We have so many more questions that we don't have time to ask you. And what that means is that you have an invitation to come back.
Dr. David Kim
Oh, my gosh.
Carlene Higgins
We will absolutely have you come back.
And I'm just noticing because I'm looking at your Instagram right now. We're based in Toronto, and I see you have a little Canadian play.
Dr. David Kim
Yes, I grew up in Toronto.
Carlene Higgins
Where you did so fit.
Oh, my God.
Dr. David Kim
North York.
Carlene Higgins
I went to York.
Dr. David Kim
No. Do you really?
Jill Dunn
Yeah.
Dr. David Kim
Oh, my gosh. Yeah. I grew up in Toronto. I moved from Korea when I was 14. Yeah, I love Toronto. Like, my teachers were so lovely. I was in ESL for, like, five years.
Jill Dunn
Oh, my goodness.
Dr. David Kim
Never got bullied. Everyone was so nice to me. I got invited to all the parties, even though my English was broken. And I just have the best memories of Toronto. My family, my parents, my brother still lives there, so I love going back. My best friend, A lot of my best friends are still in Toronto. I love Canada.
Carlene Higgins
Well, thank you so much.
Dr. David Kim
Thank you so much for having me.
Carlene Higgins
Yeah. Everybody, follow Dr. David Kim and we'll see you next time.
Jill Dunn
Thanks for listening. You can find details on every product mentioned in today's episode, along with our exclusive promo codes on our blog@breakingbeautypodcast.com While.
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Carlene Higgins
Every episode will be delivered directly to.
Jill Dunn
Your inbox, so you won't miss a.
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Carlene Higgins
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Dr. David Kim
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Carlene Higgins
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Podcast: Breaking Beauty
Hosts: Jill Dunn & Carlene Higgins
Guest: Dr. David Kim, Board-Certified Dermatologist
Episode Title: The Exact K-Beauty Skincare and Treatments That are Worth Your Money
Date: February 4, 2026
In this episode, Jill and Carlene dive deep into the world of K-Beauty with renowned dermatologist Dr. David Kim. Bridging knowledge from Seoul and Manhattan, Dr. Kim demystifies current K-Beauty trends, from breakthrough ingredients (like salmon sperm DNA and tranexamic acid) to buzzy devices, effective routines, and his own SPF line. The conversation aims to separate science from hype, offering practical advice for listeners keen on innovative, effective skincare and treatments.
Timestamps: [02:23]–[05:18]
Prevention vs. Correction:
Aesthetic Differences:
Timestamps: [06:01]–[09:09]
Not New, but Trending:
Notable Quotes:
Recommended Products:
Timestamps: [12:06]–[13:18]
Definition:
Lasers & Skincare for Even Tone:
Timestamps: [14:13]–[18:57]
In Asia:
Lifestyle Approach:
Safety Note:
Timestamps: [18:59]–[22:08]
Glutathione, NAD, Snail Mucin:
Gold Standard:
Timestamps: [23:59]–[29:20]
What Are Spicules?
Key Advice:
Comparison to Physical Exfoliants:
Timestamps: [29:21]–[31:26]
Patting and Multiple Layers:
Consistency Over Technique:
Timestamps: [31:33]–[37:22]
Demand for Non-Invasive Lifting:
Zurf (XCRF) Radiofrequency Lifting:
Personal Anecdote:
Timestamps: [39:40]–[42:51]
Inspiration:
Formula Priorities:
Recognition:
Timestamps: [43:00]–[44:49]
Mission:
Expertise:
Timestamps: [44:54]–[45:49]
"People start coming in to see a dermatologist when they have a problem... In Korea, they start much younger, focusing on prevention."
— Dr. David Kim [03:11]
"It’s not this new trendy thing…It’s been really well studied."
— Dr. David Kim [07:00]
"The ingredients that stick around are the ones that are really well studied—it’s based on evidence and science."
— Dr. David Kim [21:00]
"You have to do a screening test...because it can increase your risk for clot formation."
— Dr. David Kim [16:02]
"I am a strong believer in doing something gentle more consistently than something harsh and aggressive once a week."
— Dr. David Kim [26:22]
Dr. Kim’s dedication to safety and science shines, especially in testing devices on himself:
“I treat myself before I bring anything to the office. I do it on myself first. And I do it multiple times because…it makes you an expert. You’re not just following a manual.” [44:27]
Dr. Kim offers a science-first, patient-centered guide through the crowded world of K-Beauty, balancing cultural ritual and clinical efficacy. Key takeaways: focus on prevention and consistency, favor well-researched ingredients, and always prioritize safety—whether with supplements, treatments, or trendy devices. His top product for sensitive skin: Estra Autobarrier365 Cream.
For full product details and promo codes, visit BreakingBeautyPodcast.com.