Canal Street Dreams: Episode Summary Episode: Carry Bradshaw AKA J Lee
Release Date: July 18, 2025
Hosts: Eddie Huang and Natashia Perrotti
Guest: Jay Lee, Esteemed Food Writer

Introduction

In this engaging episode of Canal Street Dreams, hosts Eddie Huang and Natashia Perrotti welcome Jay Lee, a prominent food writer renowned for his work on Instagram and Interview magazine. Jay Lee shares his unique journey from fine arts to becoming a respected figure in the culinary critique world.

Jay Lee’s Journey into Food Writing

[06:34] Jay Lee:
"It's pretty random, actually. I've always been into food. I've always been kind of like a hedonist and a glutton or something."

Jay Lee delves into his passion for food and wine, tracing his transition from a visual artist traveling the world to immersing himself in the culinary scene. His initial foray into wine led him to document his gastronomic experiences on Instagram, which gradually evolved into comprehensive food reviews.

The Evolution of Jay Lee’s Writing Style

[10:10] Jay Lee:
"There's no objectivity. I mean, I'm lucky in that I don't really feel any responsibility to be a journalist in any way, shape, or form."

Jay Lee emphasizes his approach to food writing—prioritizing personal experience and passion over traditional journalistic objectivity. This authentic and playful style has resonated with his audience, earning him accolades and a loyal following.

Critique of the New York Times’ Restaurant Lists

[12:03] Jay Lee:
"The New York Times is for Cuomo supporters, Amy Schumer fans. The New York Times is not for us. No. It's for white ladies."

A significant portion of the conversation centers around Jay Lee's critique of the New York Times' top 100 restaurant lists. He argues that the selections often reflect a narrow demographic and fail to represent the diverse culinary landscape of New York City.

[13:07] Eddie Huang:
"The list is flawed. And it should be debated. And that's half the fun of it, really."

The hosts discuss how such lists may prioritize certain types of establishments, sometimes overlooking hidden gems like Eel Bar, despite positive reviews.

Jay Lee’s Top 10 New York Restaurants

Jay Lee shares his personal top 10 list of New York City restaurants, highlighting establishments that offer both exceptional food and unique dining experiences.

1. Superiority Burger

   • [32:24] Jay Lee:
     "It's a little bit more than I would like to pay, but it's so damn good."

2. Noodle Pudding

   • An Italian-American spot known for its fresh ingredients and homey atmosphere.

3. The Voodoo

   • Celebrated for delivering special meal experiences without exorbitant prices.

4. Four Horsemen

   • Praised for its contemporary cuisine rooted in historical flavors.

Other notable mentions include Maxi's, Ops, Kabawa, and The Grill, each selected for their distinct offerings and ambiance.

The Impact of Reviews on Careers

[61:00] Jay Lee:
"I write a slam piece, but I do feel a sense of guilt surrounding it. I don't really want to hurt anyone's bag, honestly."

Jay Lee discusses the delicate balance between honest criticism and supporting fellow restaurateurs. He reflects on his past experiences, including a pivotal moment when a zero-star review by Sam Sifton inadvertently propelled him into opportunities like writing a memoir that inspired "Fresh Off the Boat."

[62:35] Eddie Huang:
"Without that, like, we don't have Fresh Off the Boat."

This anecdote underscores how critical reviews, even negative ones, can lead to unexpected and positive career trajectories.

The Changing Landscape of New York City’s Food Scene

[49:20] Jay Lee:
"There's so much exciting new business models. A lot of DIY culture being back is. I think New York and DIY is synonymous."

The conversation shifts to the revitalization of New York's culinary scene, especially post-COVID. The hosts express optimism about the resurgence of independent restaurants, innovative business models, and the overall entrepreneurial spirit that is reshaping the city’s dining landscape.

[54:57] Jay Lee:
"So many new restaurants. Just went to this new restaurant, Bong. That's Crown Cambodia. They're good friends with Haas."

They highlight the influx of diverse cuisines and the emergence of establishments that prioritize both quality and unique dining experiences, further enriching the city's gastronomic diversity.

Navigating the Challenges of the Food Industry

Jay Lee and the hosts candidly discuss the challenges faced by restaurateurs and food writers alike, including maintaining authenticity, balancing financial constraints, and the inevitable struggle between artistic integrity and commercial success.

[57:00] Jay Lee:
"I never try to punch down. I only try to..."

Jay emphasizes his commitment to constructive criticism, aiming to foster improvement rather than just tearing down.

Conclusion

The episode culminates with reflections on the symbiotic relationship between food critics and restaurants, the importance of diverse and independent voices in shaping culinary standards, and the enduring passion that drives both Jay Lee and the hosts in their respective creative endeavors.

Notable Quotes

• Jay Lee on Objectivity:
  "There's no objectivity. I mean, I'm lucky in that I don't really feel any responsibility to be a journalist in any way, shape, or form."
  [10:34]

• Jay Lee on NYT Lists:
  "The New York Times is not for us. No. It's for white ladies."
  [12:03]

• Eddie Huang on Restaurant Energy:
  "The first year I worked the hardest. I just wanted it. And everyone was excited to be there and work and do the thing and. And it was never the same as the first."
  [46:44]

• Jay Lee on Critical Reviews:
  "If you think the restaurant's terrible and you're the critic, I was like, I'll just cop to it."
  [61:15]

For a deeper dive into this conversation, access the full episode on Substack here.