Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty: Episode 221 – Slow Fashion & Inclusivity with Nico and Donnelle

Release Date: December 24, 2024

Introduction

In Episode 221 of Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty, host Amanda Lee McCarty delves deep into the critical topic of inclusivity within the slow fashion movement. Despite a brief delay caused by unexpected plumbing issues at her historic farmhouse, Amanda kicks off the episode with enthusiasm, emphasizing the importance of addressing inclusivity to foster a sustainable and ethical fashion future.

The Necessity of Inclusivity in Slow Fashion

Amanda begins by outlining the core principles of slow fashion, highlighting its multifaceted approach:

• Secondhand Shopping: Prioritizing preloved items to reduce waste.
• Making and Upcycling Clothes: Encouraging personal craftsmanship and repurposing existing garments.
• Shopping from Ethical Brands: Supporting local and small businesses that adhere to ethical practices.
• Mindful Consumption: Focusing on quality over quantity to change our relationship with possessions.

She asserts, “Slow fashion should be everything that regular old fashioned, which is essentially, almost completely fast fashion at this point is not. It should be inclusive, diverse, welcoming, fun and creative” ([07:45]).

Amanda emphasizes that achieving a critical mass of diverse individuals is essential for dismantling the fast fashion industry, urging the shift towards a more inclusive slow fashion community to ensure its success in combating overconsumption and environmental degradation.

The State of Size Inclusivity in Fashion

A significant portion of the episode is dedicated to analyzing the current state of size inclusivity within the fashion industry. Amanda references a Vogue Business report on spring/summer 25 runway shows, revealing disheartening statistics:

• 0.8% plus-size representation ([15:30]).
• 4.3% mid-size representation.
• 94.9% straight size (US 0-4).

Model Emma Davidson from Dazed comments, “It feels like brands were turning their back on inclusive casting for a while, but this season I sat in my seat at shows where bigger models had been present and it was so disheartening to see no representation” ([20:45]).

Amanda criticizes the industry's narrow focus, stating, “Clotheshorse needs to stop centering thin, young, white, cisgendered women in brand marketing and in social media” ([29:50]).

Conversations with Guests

Nico Herzetti – Founder of Foreia

At [23:56], Amanda introduces Nico Herzetti, the founder of Foreia, an online platform designed to assist plus-size and gender-expansive individuals in building a sustainable and ethical wardrobe. Nico explains the motivation behind Foreia:

“I started Foreia because I just tried to make a list of size inclusive brands that I knew that were also gender inclusive...” ([24:17]).

Key Points Discussed:

• Size Labeling Chaos: Nico shares the frustration with inconsistent size labels across brands, making it challenging to find reliable sizing ([26:37]).
• Normalizing Body Diversity: Foreia aims to showcase diverse bodies to reshape perceptions of what is "normal" in fashion ([28:03]).
• Vetting Brands: Foreia meticulously vets brands to ensure genuine inclusivity and sustainability, avoiding scams and promoting transparency ([36:33]).
• Expanding the Market: Nico emphasizes the untapped potential in the plus-size market, urging brands to focus on larger sizes to build trust and loyalty ([52:44]).

Notable Quote: “Size Inclusivity is the first thing I look at, but then also like I'm looking at who's actually running this brand and how are they running it...” ([36:33]).

Donnelle Jagamin – Creator of Philly Plus Swap and Co-founder of Philly Fatcon

Amanda then welcomes Donnelle Jagamin, the creator of the Philly Plus Swap and co-founder of Philly Fatcon ([73:56]). Donnelle shares her journey:

“I started the plus swap in 2021... It was because people were venting about never being able to share clothes with anyone...” ([75:34]).

Key Points Discussed:

• Organizing Clothing Swaps: Donnelle details the logistics of running a plus-size clothing swap, emphasizing accessibility and community building ([76:24]).
• Challenges Faced: From venue issues, such as the sudden closure of the University of the Arts meeting, to logistical hurdles like limited restroom facilities ([83:20], [91:02]).
• Emotional Impact: Donnelle highlights the profound emotional responses from participants who finally have access to plus-size clothing ([84:00]).
• Philly Fatcon Growth: The evolution from a simple swap to a full-fledged convention, incorporating panels, fitness classes, and community networking ([89:25]).

Notable Quote: “There is so much privilege in the fact that I could do these things...” ([75:34]).

Challenges and Solutions for Inclusive Slow Fashion

Both guests shed light on the systemic barriers within the fashion industry that hinder inclusivity:

• Inconsistent Sizing: The lack of standardized sizing makes it difficult for plus-size individuals to find well-fitting clothes ([25:00], [33:04]).
• Economic Constraints: Small, inclusive brands often struggle with limited marketing budgets, making it hard to compete with fast fashion giants ([38:49]).
• Event Logistics: Organizing inclusive events requires careful planning to ensure accessibility and accommodate diverse needs, which can be resource-intensive ([83:32], [91:02]).

Solutions Proposed:

• Platforms Like Foreia: Creating centralized directories that make it easier to discover and support inclusive brands ([24:35]).
• Community Events: Hosting clothing swaps and conventions to build a supportive network and provide tangible access to inclusive fashion ([75:34], [89:25]).
• Educating Consumers: Encouraging mindfulness in consumption and promoting the value of quality over quantity ([60:14]).

Notable Quote: “Brands that are size inclusive have also tended to be the ones that care about the people who help produce their products...” ([65:00]).

Conclusion and Call to Action

Amanda wraps up the episode with a heartfelt call to support small, inclusive brands and participate in community-driven initiatives like Foreia and Philly Fatcon. She highlights the power of collective action in driving systemic change, emphasizing that the future of fashion lies in inclusivity, sustainability, and community engagement.

Final Thoughts: “The future is what so many passionate, talented people are building within the slow fashion community right now...” ([123:10]).

Amanda urges listeners to:

• Support Small Businesses: Emphasizing the importance of backing ethical and inclusive brands.
• Participate in Events: Encouraging involvement in clothing swaps and conventions to foster community and access.
• Stay Optimistic: Believing in the collective power to effect meaningful change despite existing challenges.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps

• Amanda (07:45): “Slow fashion should be everything that regular old fashioned, which is essentially, almost completely fast fashion at this point is not. It should be inclusive, diverse, welcoming, fun and creative.”
• Emma Davidson from Dazed (20:45): “It feels like brands were turning their back on inclusive casting for a while, but this season I sat in my seat at shows where bigger models had been present and it was so disheartening to see no representation.”
• Nico Herzetti (26:37): “Size Inclusivity is the first thing I look at, but then also like I'm looking at who's actually running this brand and how are they running it...”
• Donnelle Jagamin (75:34): “There is so much privilege in the fact that I could do these things...”
• Nico Herzetti (36:33): “Size Inclusivity is the first and the first thing I look at, but then also like I'm looking at who's actually running this brand and how are they running it...”
• Donnelle Jagamin (84:00): “...there were people who were like, oh, my gosh, I've been looking for this. I've been wanting to try this brand.”
• Nico Herzetti (52:44): “I would say focus on the larger sizes and get them right because that's a wide open market.”
• Amanda (123:10): “The future is what so many passionate, talented people are building within the slow fashion community right now...”

Supporting Small Businesses

Amanda concludes by highlighting and thanking various small businesses that support the Clotheshorse podcast. She encourages listeners to explore and support these brands, fostering a more inclusive and sustainable fashion ecosystem.

Tune in to Episode 221 to gain valuable insights into making the slow fashion movement more inclusive and sustainable. Discover how platforms like Foreia and community-driven initiatives like Philly Fatcon are paving the way for a better fashion future.