Collector’s Gene Radio: Episode Summary

Title: Matteo Violet-Vianello - Founder, Anoma Watch
Host: Cameron Ross Steiner
Release Date: February 26, 2025

Introduction

In this engaging episode of Collector’s Gene Radio, host Cameron Ross Steiner sits down with Matteo Violet-Vianello, the visionary founder of Anoma Watch. The conversation delves deep into Matteo’s journey from a passionate watch collector to an innovative watchmaker who seamlessly blends art and horology. Listeners gain insights into Matteo’s inspirations, the philosophy behind Anoma Watch, and his perspectives on the evolving landscape of watch collecting.

Matteo’s Journey: From Collector to Creator

Matteo begins by reflecting on his lifelong passion for watches, which ignited at a young age. “I got fairly obsessed with watches when I was about five or six. I discovered a set of broken vintage watches in a drawer at home… I quickly fell down the rabbit hole of watches for all the reasons that we all do,” he shares (02:04). This early fascination led him to roles at prestigious establishments like Sotheby’s and A Collected Man, where he honed his expertise and broadened his perspective on watchmaking.

Cameron acknowledges the significant impact of Matteo’s professional experiences, noting, “Anoma is, in my opinion, and I'm sure yours too, so much more than just a watch brand. It’s this artistic expression” (02:18). Matteo concurs, emphasizing that his time curating for others enriched his understanding of why people cherish certain objects, ultimately informing his approach to creating Anoma’s distinctive timepieces.

Influences and Design Philosophy

Raised between Paris and Venice, Matteo attributes his diverse design sensibilities to his multicultural upbringing. “We were constantly surrounded by culture, whether it was kind of music at home, books, endlessly dragged to museums on family holidays,” he reminisces (06:23). This exposure fostered an appreciation for the blending of different cultural elements, evident in Anoma’s designs which draw from various artistic inspirations.

Matteo discusses his eclectic taste in watches, highlighting his preference for pieces with strong, undiluted points of view. “What I like isn't necessarily coherent in terms of a specific taste. It's when you come across something that is like an undiluted point of view,” he explains (09:06). This philosophy is embodied in Anoma’s inaugural watch, the A1, which merges influences from Charlotte Perriand’s freeform tables, Brancusi’s modernist sculptures, and the natural elegance of primitive tools and river stones.

Watches as Art and Collectibles

A central theme of the discussion is the dual role of watches as both functional objects and art pieces. Matteo posits, “The only purpose that watches serve is ultimately to generate emotion” (12:36). He draws parallels between horology and art, suggesting that well-crafted watches transcend their functional nature to become personal art objects. “They come down, when done well, to that same point [as art], which is, does it have an ability to generate emotion?” he asserts (14:07).

Matteo elaborates on how the A1 serves as a canvas for artistic expression while remaining wearable and accessible. By integrating complex artistic inspirations into a minimalist design, Anoma makes bold creativity more attainable for everyday collectors, not just art enthusiasts.

Innovative Design and Future Plans

The conversation shifts to the innovative aspects of the A1 design. Matteo describes the watch as “incredibly simple” yet “visually striking,” composed of “two rounded triangles tilted inside one another and kind of curved all the way around” (22:49). This simplicity allows for endless reinterpretation and adaptation, ensuring the watch remains timeless and versatile.

Looking ahead, Matteo outlines Anoma’s plans to expand the A1 collection with core variants and experimental iterations. “The focus for this year will be putting in place a core collection for the A1… we’ll release those three variants… The black is very stark, very monochromatic, very masculine. The red is super sensual… the emerald is much calmer, nature-inspired” (28:23). Additionally, Matteo envisions the A1 as a foundation for more avant-garde projects, exploring concepts like prehistoric tool aesthetics through hand-engraved cases that evoke primal craftsmanship.

Collaborations and Special Editions

Matteo shares details about a unique piece created for the Time for Art Auction, inspired by artists Bridget Riley and Ferruccio B. Rancusii. He explains how he transformed their optical illusion techniques into a “super masculine, avant-garde” watch dial, resulting in a piece that captivates both visually and conceptually. “We were able to work with engraving and depth and light and lacquering… push those, like, hypnotic ideas even further” (25:09). This collaboration exemplifies Anoma’s commitment to merging art and watchmaking, creating pieces that are both aesthetically pleasing and intellectually stimulating.

Emotional and Narrative Connections

Drawing from his experience as a curator, Matteo emphasizes the importance of emotional and narrative connections in collecting. “You first connect with these things deeply…and curating them for other people widens your sensibilities as to why other people care about things” (35:17). This dual awareness informs his design philosophy, ensuring that Anoma watches resonate on a personal level while also appealing to broader collector sensibilities. Matteo strives to create watches that evolve with their owners, enhancing their emotional significance over time.

Collector’s Gene Rundown

To conclude the episode, Matteo participates in the “Collector’s Gene Rundown,” answering a series of personal collecting questions:

• What's the one that got away?

  Matteo recounts his missed opportunity to purchase Jean Prouv’s iconic black metal chairs, which skyrocketed in value from an estimated £50-100 to over £10,000 (39:37). This experience underscores his deep appreciation for design beyond horology.

• What’s next for you in collecting?

  Shifting focus to jewelry, Matteo expresses interest in Elza Peretti’s 1970s Tiffany pieces, particularly the organic bone cuffs. “Jewelry has been… a whole new area of collecting” (40:54).

• What is unobtainable for you?

  Matteo dreams of owning the Patek Philippe 3424 in white gold with baguette diamonds, currently housed in the Patek Philippe Museum. “It's just indescribably good” (42:21).

• If money was no object, what would you collect besides watches?

  Matteo would invest in architecture, specifically iconic designs like Villa Savoye by Le Corbusier. “Architecture shapes the way we exist with the world and live in the world more than anything else” (43:37).

• Who do you admire in the collecting world?

  He praises Todd Levin, an art advisor and client at A Collected Man, for his genuine and eclectic collecting approach. “It's all about the emotional connection to those things” (45:20).

• Do you prefer the hunt or the ownership?

  While appreciating the thrill of the hunt, Matteo finds greater satisfaction in ownership. “For me, ownership until you own something, you don't fully understand it…I love living with objects” (48:13).

• Do you feel that you were born with the Collector’s gene?

  Matteo affirms his innate collecting tendencies, recalling his childhood obsession with Coca-Cola cans. “The gene was well implanted” (49:05).

Conclusion

Matteo Violet-Vianello’s interview on Collector’s Gene Radio offers a profound look into the mind of a collector-turned-creator. His ability to intertwine art, design, and horology not only sets Anoma Watch apart in the competitive watch market but also invites collectors to experience timepieces as dynamic works of art. As Anoma continues to innovate, Matteo’s passion and vision promise exciting developments for both the brand and the broader collecting community.

Notable Quotes

• Matteo Violette Vianello:
  “I don't think I ever would have been able to create if I hadn't first been a collector and enthusiast that kind of connected with these things deeply.” (35:17)

• Matteo Violette Vianello:
  “The only purpose that watches serve is ultimately to generate emotion.” (12:36)

• Cameron Ross Steiner:
  “I think the juxtaposition between Patek 3919 and the Urwerk is something that speaks to probably who you are as a person.” (11:39)

• Matteo Violette Vianello:
  “It's incredibly simple… it’s two rounded triangles tilted inside one another and kind of curved all the way around.” (22:49)

Timestamp Key:

• 02:04: Introduction and Matteo’s early fascination with watches.
• 02:18: Cameron introduces Matteo and Anoma Watch.
• 06:23: Matteo discusses his multicultural upbringing in Paris and Venice.
• 09:06: Matteo talks about his eclectic taste in watches.
• 11:39: Cameron comments on the juxtaposition of different watch influences.
• 12:36: Discussion on watches as art objects.
• 14:07: Further exploration of watches transcending functionality.
• 22:49: Matteo describes the minimalist design of the A1.
• 25:09: Special edition inspired by Bridget Riley and Ferruccio B. Rancusii.
• 28:23: Future plans for expanding the A1 collection.
• 35:17: Matteo reflects on his journey from collector to creator.
• 39:37: Collector’s Gene Rundown - "The one that got away."
• 40:54: Next collecting interest in jewelry.
• 42:21: Dream piece in the Patek Philippe Museum.
• 43:37: Architectural dream collection.
• 45:20: Admiration for fellow collector Todd Levin.
• 48:13: Preference for ownership over the hunt.
• 49:05: Affirmation of having the Collector’s gene.

Collector’s Gene Radio continues to explore the intricate world of collecting, offering listeners enriching conversations with passionate individuals like Matteo Violet-Vianello. Stay tuned for more episodes that celebrate the art, emotion, and stories behind cherished collections.