Culture Apothecary with Alex Clark
Episode: Why a Dermatologist Can't Solve Your Acne | Acne Nutritionist Maria
Release Date: May 13, 2025
Guest: Maria Marlowe, Certified Nutritionist and Founder of Kuma

Introduction

In this enlightening episode of Culture Apothecary with Alex Clark, host Alex engages in a deep conversation with Maria Marlowe, a certified nutritionist known as the Acne Nutritionist. Maria shares her personal journey with acne, delves into the root causes of the condition, and offers holistic solutions that go beyond conventional dermatological treatments.

Maria’s Acne Story and Journey to Nutritionism

Maria begins by recounting her struggle with severe acne for nearly five years. Despite using over-the-counter products like Clean & Clear and Clearasil, as well as seeking dermatological prescriptions—including Accutane—she found no lasting relief. "I had really bad acne for almost five years despite trying all the things," Maria explains (02:13). The side effects of Accutane, particularly severe depression, led her to abandon the medication and reconsider her approach to treating acne.

Diet, Blood Sugar, and Gut Health as Root Causes of Acne

Maria posits that acne is fundamentally a disease of Western civilization, closely tied to diet and lifestyle. "Acne is a disease of western civilization. Wherever the western diet goes, acne follows," she states (00:00). She emphasizes the critical role of blood sugar in managing acne, asserting, "If your blood sugar is on a rollercoaster all day, you're never gonna clear your skin" (00:19). According to Maria, gut health is the cornerstone of clear skin: "The most important foundational piece is really working on gut health. That is the key to clear skin" (00:23).

Critique of Conventional Acne Treatments

Maria critiques the dermatological approach to treating acne, which she describes as merely a "band-aid approach" that fails to address underlying issues. She shares her personal experience with Accutane, highlighting its temporary benefits and severe side effects: "Accutane doesn't get to the root. I feel like all of these medications are really a band aid approach without getting to the root" (05:48). Maria advocates for identifying and treating the root causes of inflammation rather than relying solely on medication.

Identifying and Treating Root Causes

To uncover the underlying causes of acne, Maria employs a comprehensive approach that includes a detailed health history and a food diary. "If you give me a week's worth or even three days worth of what you're eating on a regular, I can look at it and kind of get an idea of like, okay, well, you're not really eating any foods with this particular nutrient or that particular nutrient," she explains (05:54). This method allows her to identify nutrient deficiencies, blood sugar imbalances, and gut health issues that contribute to acne.

Common Dietary Triggers for Acne

Maria identifies dairy as one of the most significant dietary triggers for acne. Referencing a 2018 meta-analysis involving 80,000 subjects, she notes, "Any dairy in the age group of 7 to 30 increases the risks of acne" (07:27). This finding underscores the impact of conventional dairy products on skin health and supports her recommendation to eliminate or reduce dairy intake for those struggling with acne.

Hormonal Acne and Gut Health

Addressing hormonal acne, Maria emphasizes the connection between hormone balance and gut health. "With hormonal acne, don't blame your hormones. Blame whatever is causing your hormones to become imbalanced," she advises (07:34). She explains that poor gut health and constipation can disrupt hormone elimination, leading to imbalances that manifest as acne: "If we are not eliminating regularly, daily, completely, those excess hormones can actually get reabsorbed back into the bloodstream, contributing to imbalances" (07:40).

Cultural and Historical Perspective on Acne

Maria provides a historical and cultural analysis of acne, illustrating how its prevalence skyrockets with the adoption of Western diets. She cites a 1970 study on U.S. male inmates, revealing that white inmates were significantly more prone to acne than their Black counterparts. "In America, the white Americans were eating milkshakes and hot dogs and hamburgers and Coca Cola... whereas the African Americans were eating meats and beans and vegetables and whole real foods," Maria explains (09:01). She further notes the dramatic increase in acne rates in Japan following westernization, reinforcing her theory that diet and lifestyle are primary drivers of acne.

Treatment Recommendations

Maria's treatment strategy focuses on a balanced diet rich in whole foods, proteins, healthy fats, and fiber. She recommends eliminating sugary and processed foods to stabilize blood sugar levels. For example, she suggests starting the day with a high-protein breakfast: "Start day with three eggs. I like to do a veggie omelette... to get you to 30 grams of protein" (24:30). Additionally, she emphasizes the importance of anti-inflammatory foods like wild salmon, vegetables, turmeric, flaxseed, garlic, and onions to reduce systemic inflammation.

Skincare and Lifestyle Tips

Beyond diet, Maria advocates for minimalist skincare routines using probiotic skincare products to support skin health from the outside. She recommends brands like Eminence Organics and Kovo Essentials for their gentle, probiotic-infused products. "Tea tree oil is a must-have... it helps reduce inflammation and... prevent any infection" (22:39). Maria also highlights the importance of oral health, noting that poor dental hygiene can contribute to systemic inflammation: "If you have bleeding gums, you have inflammation... You're getting body wide inflammation" (17:45).

Additional Factors Affecting Acne

Maria discusses the role of stress and lifestyle in exacerbating acne. Chronic stress can elevate cortisol levels, increasing sebum production and leading to breakouts. She also touches on the impact of alcohol consumption, stating, "Anything more than two drinks can actually increase your markers of inflammation" (30:31). Furthermore, she advises against harsh skincare practices like over-washing and using abrasive scrubs, advocating instead for gentle cleansing methods to maintain skin integrity.

Specific Skincare Advice

When addressing skincare routines, Maria provides practical advice on managing breakouts and maintaining healthy skin. She dispels the myth of "skin purging," advocating for gentle skincare products that do not strip the skin of its natural oils: "Your skin should not feel tight after washing" (18:03). For pimple management, she advises properly popping whiteheads while avoiding cystic acne: "You got to do it properly... don't try it with a cyst. It's going to just be a disaster" (18:05).

90-Day Protocol for Healing Acne

Maria outlines her comprehensive 90-day protocol aimed at healing acne by addressing its root causes. This includes:

1. Diet Overhaul: Emphasizing whole, unprocessed foods, high protein intake, and balanced macronutrients.
2. Blood Sugar Stabilization: Implementing a low-glycemic diet to prevent blood sugar spikes.
3. Gut Health Optimization: Incorporating probiotics and addressing leaky gut to reduce systemic inflammation.
4. Stress Management: Techniques to reduce chronic stress and its impact on hormone balance.
5. Lifestyle Upgrades: Replacing processed foods with healthier alternatives and adopting consistent skincare routines.

She shares impressive results from studies, noting, "In 90 days, it was upwards of 90% of the participants cleared their skin" (37:18).

Conclusion and Key Takeaways

Maria reinforces the importance of treating acne holistically by focusing on diet, gut health, and lifestyle adjustments. She emphasizes that acne is not merely a skin condition but a sign of deeper bodily imbalances. "You have to heal your gut. If you heal your gut, you're gonna heal your brain, your skin, your immune system, really your whole entire body," she concludes (40:04). Maria encourages listeners to view acne as a message from the body, prompting them to address underlying health issues for long-term skin clarity.

How to Work with Maria

For those seeking personalized guidance, Maria offers one-on-one consultations and a self-guided 90-day program. Interested individuals can visit her website at mariamarlo.com and follow her on social media at Instagram: Maria Marlowe and TikTok/YouTube: Glow by Marlo.

Notable Quotes:

• Maria Marlowe (00:00): "Acne is a disease of western civilization. Wherever the western diet goes, acne follows."
• Maria Marlowe (05:48): "Accutane doesn't get to the root. I feel like all of these medications are really a band aid approach without getting to the root."
• Maria Marlowe (07:34): "With hormonal acne, don't blame your hormones. Blame whatever is causing your hormones to become imbalanced."
• Maria Marlowe (37:18): "In 90 days, it was upwards of 90% of the participants cleared their skin."
• Maria Marlowe (40:04): "You have to heal your gut. If you heal your gut, you're gonna heal your brain, your skin, your immune system, really your whole entire body."

This episode provides a comprehensive exploration of acne beyond surface-level treatments, offering listeners actionable insights into achieving clear skin through holistic health practices. Whether you've struggled with persistent acne or are seeking preventive measures, Maria Marlowe's expertise offers a refreshing perspective grounded in nutrition and lifestyle.