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To tell you, I was just looking.
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Dan Snow (1:48)
One of the rarest.
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Dan Snow (2:14)
I remember very vividly the first time I encountered a whale out at sea, probably about halfway between Bermuda and the Azores in the middle of the Atlantic. And it was dead calm and the boat wasn't moving. It was just lolling around on the flat sea and I was lying in my bunk and I was wondering whether I should turn the engine on. I Was worried about using up the fuel. And then a giant spout. It felt like it was right next to the hull of the boat. And I think my whole body hit the bulkhead above. More recently, later in life with my family, I went whale watching. And you first see the fluke of its tail and then you wait in anticipation for it to come back to the surface. And sure enough, a few minutes later, you see its broad back breaching the surface of the water. It was thrilling, its size, its nature. But I think it's also thrilling because my generation came to think that whales were gone. If we persist in destroying animals that ask nothing more than to be left alone to reproduce. Growing up in the 1980s, they were a battlefield in the culture wars. Save the whale was the shout at the time. And I think we've all come to understand the commonality we share with these creatures. They yearn to build connections. They have the most extraordinary communication systems. They have a profound bond with their young. That is what drives whales to migrate thousands of miles to feeding grounds and back again. They understand our earth in ways that despite all our technology, we just haven't come close to understanding ourselves. They are the original ocean going voyagers. And having said all that, it might come as a bit of a surprise that this episode is all about whaling. It can be easy to see we're going to talk about an evil practice that pushed these incredible creatures to near extinction in kind of black and white. But actually it's much more complicated than that. We also have a drive to survive, to keep our families going, to provide for our young. That's true of the humans, the whalers who traverse the world's most dangerous oceans, further than they'd ever dreamed they'd go, facing enormous waves, floating icebergs, savage weather. They too were hunting to provide for their families, to enable their communities back home to survive. So I don't want to ignore the human history of whaling. I'm fascinated by that social history, the communities these whalers came from, the world that whaling emerged from and the world that it created. The best place for us to explore that story, at least the European aspect of that story, is from the Scottish port of Dundee. It was once Britain's leading whaling port. It was famous for its hardy ships and its hardier men. You're listening to Dan Snow's history, and this is the history of whaling. For anyone listening to this pod for a few years now, you might remember that in early 2022, I came here to the east coast of Scotland. I came Dundee, to announce to launch that expedition down to the Antarctic to find Shackleton's lost endurance shipwreck. Now, don't worry, I'm not going to tell you that story yet again of how Shackleton and his were left stranded on the Antarctic ice after their ship sank. And then furthermore, how Shackleton led the most astonishing open boat journey of all time, 800 miles on a little tiny wooden boat to South Georgia where they'd begun their expedition well over a year earlier. I'm not going to tell that story, but I'm going to talk about the reason that Shackleton went to South Georgia, and that's because he knew it was inhabited. It was inhabited because there were whaling stations there. There were little ports, little communities with factories, there were little pinpicks of settlement and otherwise empty, well, certain as far as humans were concerned, empty stretches of the South Atlantic. One of those whaling stations was called Gritviken and it was established by a Norwegian sea captain at the turn of the 20th century. It was the first and longest operating shore based whaling station in the Antarctic. A place where Antarctic whales were processed in vast numbers over six decades to serve an industry that changed the world. And one of the amazing things about Gritviken is it really relied on the expertise, on the resources, on the people power from places like Dundee to operate. This city had been a hub for whaling. Expeditions were sent from here in northeast Scotland all the way down to the southern oceans. And this city built some of the most advanced whaling vessels of the time. And by 1890 it was the only UK whaling port left and it was serving, if you like, it was sort of supporting satellite locations in the South Atlantic like Gripvik and keeping them going. I've come here today to explore the complicated, but also the fascinating history of whaling. Because now as I'm recording this, there is a weekend events being held here by the South Georgia Heritage Trust. It's celebrating the historical connections between Dundee and South Georgia. There's a new interactive time capsule that's called the Whaler's Memory bank and it's preserving the testimonies of whalers and their communities for future generations. And while I'm here, I'm going to be speaking to some of Scotland's last living whalers to discover more about what life was really like. But I'm also talking to some historians and meeting scientists looking into the modern threats whales still face today. For better or for worse, commercial whaling has shaped the modern world in so many stark and revolutionary ways. Whaling oiled the cogs of the Industrial Revolution. It gave US illuminated nights and it gave us Victorian fashions. I'm talking there about whaling in the 19th century. Industrial whaling. That's the image we might have of men in wooden boats launching their harpoons into roiling seas and then dragging the mortally wounded whales alongside the hull of the whaling vessel. But the practice actually goes back thousands of years. Indigenous communities around the world have hunted whales to sustain themselves for generations. And their version of whaling was inevitably a bit more symbiotic and a bit more sustainable. It was a balance between man and nature. This is Jane Pearce, she's curator of the South Georgia Heritage Trust. And a heads up, it's worth saying this episode does contain descriptions of practices that listeners may find grisly and upsetting.
