Design Matters with Debbie Millman: Best of Design Matters – Stella Bugbee

In this compelling episode of Design Matters with Debbie Millman, Stella Bugbee, the Styles Editor at The New York Times, delves into her multifaceted career, her passion for fashion and design, and the personal challenges she has overcome. Through an engaging conversation, Stella shares insights on democratizing fashion, balancing ambition with personal happiness, and her transformative journey in the world of media and design.

Early Life and Influences

Stella Bugbee begins by reflecting on her unconventional upbringing. Born in a remote mesa in New Mexico, Stella's early life was marked by her parents' quest for a simpler existence away from Los Angeles. This unique start influenced her perception of design and aesthetics from a young age.

Notable Quote:

Stella Bugbee [04:13]: "I didn't know where to start... there was something so soothing, an escapist about seeing all this fashion and just kind of fitting in."

Stella recounts her move to Washington D.C. and later Brooklyn, where her fascination with fashion blossomed. At just ten years old, a visit to Canal Jeans on Broadway ignited her lifelong passion for style and self-expression.

Education and Early Career

Stella pursued her interests by enrolling in design school, where she embraced seeing the world through a designer's lens. Her academic journey included a double major in design and writing at Parsons and Eugene Lang, respectively. Initially intent on a career in poetry, Stella found herself drawn more towards design, particularly after being captivated by publications like Raygun and Wired.

Notable Quote:

Stella Bugbee [10:59]: "Sestinas in particular, very hard form. But I also loved concrete poetry. And I think that actually that's what led me into thinking about typography and was one of the reasons that I ended up choosing design."

Stella's early professional experiences were diverse, ranging from working at Kate Spade during its nascent stages to interning with legendary magazine designer Roger Black. These roles provided her with a robust foundation in graphic design and editorial decision-making.

Challenges and Resilience

Stella candidly discusses the personal and professional challenges she faced, including her diagnosis with Crohn's disease and unexpected pregnancies. Balancing a demanding career with health issues and motherhood was tumultuous, leading her to question her professional path.

Notable Quote:

Stella Bugbee [22:54]: "I thought it was a career apocalypse. I thought my career was over."

Despite these obstacles, Stella's resilience shone through. She navigated her career shifts by viewing each challenge as an opportunity to grow and learn, ultimately leading her to pivotal roles at Domino Magazine and later at The Cut.

Leadership at The Cut

As the editorial director of The Cut, Stella played a pivotal role in transforming it from a fashion blog into a comprehensive magazine brand. Her leadership emphasized creating a space where creativity and diverse voices could flourish without being confined by traditional advertising categories.

Notable Quote:

Stella Bugbee [42:18]: "My main goal was to create a space where the people working on that project could say whatever they wanted to say in the tone they wanted to say it in."

Stella's approach fostered a community-driven environment, allowing for a blend of high fashion and everyday style, making fashion accessible and relatable to a broader audience.

Philosophy on Fashion and Inclusivity

A recurring theme in Stella's discourse is the democratization of fashion. She challenges the traditionally exclusive nature of fashion journalism, advocating for inclusivity and personal expression regardless of one's economic status or body type.

Notable Quote:

Stella Bugbee [46:22]: "I sort of reject that. And I kind of want everybody to feel like it's something that they can and should embrace for themselves..."

Stella emphasizes the importance of cultivating personal taste and breaking down the hierarchies that often make fashion feel exclusionary. Her coverage aims to celebrate both high and low fashion, encouraging individuals to find joy and self-expression in their unique styles.

Balancing Ambition and Happiness

Stella explores the intricate balance between professional ambition and personal happiness. Initially skeptical about reconciling the two, her perspective evolved over time, especially in the wake of cultural shifts prompted by events like the COVID-19 pandemic.

Notable Quote:

Stella Bugbee [34:54]: "There’s a certain amount of misery that comes with ambition because you’re just always wanting something you always want a little bit more."

She acknowledges the perpetual striving that comes with ambition but also highlights the importance of setting boundaries and finding fulfillment beyond professional achievements.

Current Role at The New York Times

In her current capacity at The New York Times, Stella oversees the Style section, aiming to maintain its relevance and impact in the digital age. She discusses the challenges of curating content that resonates with a diverse readership while fostering an environment where creativity and authenticity thrive.

Notable Quote:

Stella Bugbee [61:22]: "We’re taking what’s happening and we’re explaining it to people, but we’re not saying, you know, here’s the 10 greatest coats you can buy right now."

Stella's commitment to providing insightful and inclusive fashion journalism ensures that the Style section remains a source of inspiration and information without dictating trends or consumer behavior.

Lessons and Reflections

Reflecting on her career, Stella attributes her success to viewing every experience, including setbacks, as opportunities for growth. This mindset has allowed her to navigate the complexities of the media and fashion industries with resilience and adaptability.

Notable Quote:

Stella Bugbee [64:32]: "I looked at all these things as opportunities. So they felt accidental or they felt like unexpected is maybe a better word... I saw these people and these opportunities, not necessarily in a connected way that was obvious at the time, but that they each offered opportunity for growth and to complete a sort of thing I was lacking."

Her journey underscores the importance of embracing unforeseen paths and continuously seeking knowledge and experiences that contribute to personal and professional development.

Conclusion

Stella Bugbee's episode on Design Matters offers a profound exploration of the intersections between fashion, design, and personal growth. Her narrative serves as an inspiring testament to the power of resilience, the importance of inclusivity in fashion, and the continual pursuit of balance between ambition and happiness. For listeners seeking motivation and insight into the creative industries, Stella's story provides valuable lessons on navigating a dynamic and often challenging career landscape.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps:

• Stella Bugbee [04:13]: "I didn't know where to start... there was something so soothing, an escapist about seeing all this fashion and just kind of fitting in."

• Stella Bugbee [10:59]: "Sestinas in particular, very hard form. But I also loved concrete poetry. And I think that actually that's what led me into thinking about typography and was one of the reasons that I ended up choosing design."

• Stella Bugbee [22:54]: "I thought it was a career apocalypse. I thought my career was over."

• Stella Bugbee [42:18]: "My main goal was to create a space where the people working on that project could say whatever they wanted to say in the tone they wanted to say it in."

• Stella Bugbee [46:22]: "I sort of reject that. And I kind of want everybody to feel like it's something that they can and should embrace for themselves..."

• Stella Bugbee [34:54]: "There’s a certain amount of misery that comes with ambition because you’re just always wanting something you always want a little bit more."

• Stella Bugbee [61:22]: "We’re taking what’s happening and we’re explaining it to people, but we’re not saying, you know, here’s the 10 greatest coats you can buy right now."

• Stella Bugbee [64:32]: "I looked at all these things as opportunities. So they felt accidental or they felt like unexpected is maybe a better word..."

This detailed summary encapsulates Stella Bugbee's insightful discussion on her career, her approach to fashion journalism, and her personal journey of overcoming challenges. It highlights her dedication to making fashion inclusive and her strategies for maintaining a balanced and fulfilling professional life.