Fashion Neurosis with Bella Freud: In-Depth Conversation with Jürgen Teller

Podcast Information:

• Title: Fashion Neurosis with Bella Freud
• Host: Bella Freud
• Guest: Jürgen Teller
• Episode Release Date: February 19, 2025

Introduction

In this episode of Fashion Neurosis with Bella Freud, renowned fashion designer Bella Freud engages in a profound and intimate dialogue with acclaimed photographer Jürgen Teller. Known for his candid and raw approach to fashion photography, Teller delves into the symbiotic relationship between fashion, identity, and personal expression. The conversation traverses Teller's early inspirations, his unique photographic philosophy, and the intricate dynamics of his collaborations with fashion icons like Vivienne Westwood.

Clothing and Style

Comfort and Practicality: Teller begins by discussing his personal style, emphasizing comfort as paramount.

[01:20] Jürgen Teller: "It's very important for me to be comfortable because I kind of always, in my mind, I could always be working or I'm always working."

He mentions a consistent wardrobe of jumpers, jeans, and trainers, subtly varying his outfits to maintain practicality without sacrificing personal comfort.

[01:25] Jürgen Teller: "I pretty much wear the same thing in a slightly different arrangement."

Signature Shorts: Bella Freud observes Teller's penchant for short, satiny shorts, which he attributes to practicality and personal preference rather than a desire to provoke.

[49:04] Jürgen Teller: "I never do anything for effect. These shorts suit me. I have very short legs and they make my legs look good."

Early Influences and Journey into Photography

Discovery of Photography: Teller recounts picking up a camera at 18, which was a transformative moment that shaped his career.

[06:02] Jürgen Teller: "Looking through the viewfinder really helped me to shape and focus on something. I immediately knew what I wanted to do. I wanted to be a photographer."

Initial Forays: Record Covers: His early work involved photographing record covers, where fashion and music intersected, influencing his later ventures into fashion photography.

[02:33] Jürgen Teller: "I started doing record covers. Fashion gets completely influenced by the music, by the musicians."

Work in Fashion Photography

Approach to Fashion: Teller emphasizes that his interest lies not in fashion itself but in the people who wear the clothes, using fashion as a medium to express human behavior and identity.

[02:33] Jürgen Teller: "I'm not so interested in fashion per se, but it's really the people who wear clothes that I'm interested in."

Collaborations with Vivienne Westwood: A significant portion of the discussion revolves around his long-standing collaboration with Vivienne Westwood, highlighting mutual trust and creative synergy.

[27:30] Jürgen Teller: "Vivienne said, this is the most sexiest picture of anybody ever taking of her. It made me so proud."

He shares anecdotes about their shoots, including memorable sessions where Westwood confidently embraced nudity, showcasing their deep professional and personal rapport.

Personal Insights and Vulnerability

Self-Portraits and Naked Photography: Teller explores his venture into self-portraiture, particularly his naked self-portraits, as a means to understand being photographed by himself and to maintain authenticity in his work.

[21:52] Jürgen Teller: "I wanted to feel how it feels like to be photographed by myself. It was to be as natural and pure as possible, which meant being naked."

Emotional Connection to Photography: He shares a poignant story about photographing himself on his father's grave, revealing the emotional depth and personal struggles intertwined with his artistic endeavors.

[19:17] Jürgen Teller: "I wanted to do self portraits on my father's grave. It was an extremely important photograph... it was about showing a certain vulnerability."

Relationships and Collaborations

Trust with Vivienne Westwood: The conversation highlights the trust and mutual respect between Teller and Westwood, which allowed for groundbreaking and honest creative expressions.

[33:10] Jürgen Teller: "Vivienne was incredibly beautiful, naive, and playful. That's where we connected to create something new and inspiring."

Collaborative Process: Teller discusses his collaborative approach, where both he and Westwood contributed ideas, leading to innovative campaigns that broke conventional fashion photography norms.

[32:47] Jürgen Teller: "Vivienne made everything go further. She was exacting yet patient, pushing me to rise to the occasion even when I stumbled."

Artistic Philosophy

Instinct and Honesty: Teller attributes his ability to capture authentic moments to instinct and a commitment to honesty, both with himself and his subjects.

[13:37] Jürgen Teller: "It is instinct. I have a really good sense of that. I can feel and sense the aura around the person."

Brutal Honesty: He believes in being brutally honest in his work, which sometimes involves difficult conversations and making tough decisions to stay true to his artistic vision.

[45:01] Jürgen Teller: "I have to be brutally honest that I need to have this photograph published. It was about showing my emotional closeness to my father."

Psychological Sensitivity: Teller emphasizes the psychological aspect of photography, being sensitive and sharp in guiding his subjects to express their true selves.

[17:18] Jürgen Teller: "It's a lot about psychology. You have to be very clever and very sensitive."

Personal Life and Style Choices

Managing Depression: Teller opens up about his struggles with depression, particularly in creative stagnation, and how collaboration with his wife has become a source of continuous inspiration and support.

[52:15] Jürgen Teller: "When I get down, I have to let go and wait for new inspiration from life to propel me forward."

Practical Clothing Preferences: His dislike for dress codes and authority reflects his broader philosophy of personal freedom and authenticity.

[51:37] Jürgen Teller: "I really hate when people tell you what to wear. These sort of dress code scenarios are a nightmare for me."

Conclusion

Bella Freud's conversation with Jürgen Teller offers a deep dive into the mind of a photographer who uses fashion as a lens to explore human identity and vulnerability. Teller's candid reflections on his personal life, artistic philosophy, and professional relationships provide listeners with a nuanced understanding of how fashion and authenticity intertwine. His journey from seeking comfort in his wardrobe to embracing vulnerability in his photography underscores the profound connection between what we wear and who we are.

[54:14] Jürgen Teller: "Pleasure."

This episode not only highlights Teller's contributions to fashion photography but also celebrates the raw and honest exploration of self through the art of fashion.

Notable Quotes

• On Comfort and Work Ethic:

  [01:25] Jürgen Teller: "I pretty much wear the same thing in a slightly different arrangement."

• On Instinct in Photography:

  [13:37] Jürgen Teller: "It is instinct. I have a really good sense of that. I can feel and sense the aura around the person."

• On Brutal Honesty:

  [45:01] Jürgen Teller: "I have to be brutally honest that I need to have this photograph published."

• On Managing Depression:

  [52:15] Jürgen Teller: "When I get down, I have to let go and wait for new inspiration from life to propel me forward."

• On Personal Style:

  [49:04] Jürgen Teller: "I never do anything for effect. These shorts suit me. I have very short legs and they make my legs look good."

This structured summary captures the essence of the conversation between Bella Freud and Jürgen Teller, highlighting key themes, personal insights, and philosophical discussions that define Teller's approach to fashion photography and self-expression.