Podcast Summary: Fashion People – "Fashion in the Golden Age of Magazines and Sabato’s Farewell (Finally)"

Episode Information:

• Title: Fashion in the Golden Age of Magazines and Sabato’s Farewell (Finally)
• Release Date: February 7, 2025
• Host: Lauren Sherman
• Guests: Cynthia True and Dennis Galanka, co-hosts of the podcast Blow Up

1. Introduction

Lauren Sherman kicks off the episode by introducing her guests, Cynthia True and Dennis Galanka, who co-host the narrative podcast Blow Up. The primary focus of their discussion centers around the transformative years of Liz Tilbaras at Bizarre magazine during the 1990s, exploring the evolution of the magazine industry, notable rivalries, and the eventual farewell to influential figures within the fashion publication world.

2. Guests’ Background and Collaboration

Lauren Sherman (01:07):
Lauren expresses her admiration for Cynthia and Dennis, highlighting their deep connection and the meticulous work they’ve done in chronicling Liz Tilbaras's impact on Harper's Bazaar.

Cynthia True (06:35):
Cynthia recounts her journey, starting as an assistant to Sarah Mower and Laurie James at Harper's Bazaar. She details the supportive environment and the mentorship she received, which fueled her passion for fashion journalism.

Dennis Galanka (06:43):
Dennis shares how he and Cynthia reconnected during the COVID-19 pandemic, leading to the conception of the Blow Up podcast. Their mutual admiration for Bizarre magazine’s legacy prompted them to embark on an in-depth exploration of Liz Tilbaras's tenure.

3. Experiences at Harper's Bazaar and Bizarre

Lauren Sherman (01:07):
Lauren provides context about the declining collaboration between Carrie and Gucci with Sabato Dasarno, setting the stage for deeper industry insights.

Dennis Galanka (14:36):
Dennis reflects on the inclusivity at Bizarre, emphasizing the non-judgmental environment regarding sexuality:
"There is no judgment on your sexuality. So my coming into working there, having that sort of embrace of who you are, it changed my world." (15:26)

Cynthia True (16:28):
Cynthia discusses the gifting culture prevalent in the 1990s fashion magazines, detailing how free accessories and lavish gifts were common:
"They used to send great accessories to Sarah Mower all the time... I would take those right down to the Strand and get cash to pay my rent." (16:38)

4. Budgeting for Magazine Shoots: Then vs. Now

Lauren Sherman (23:47):
Lauren inquires about the budgeting differences between magazine shoots in the 1990s compared to the present day.

Cynthia True (23:55):
Cynthia cites Stephanie Albertson’s estimation of $200,000 per page for shoots:
"A shoot... a page run to 200,000." (23:55)

Dennis Galanka (23:56):
Dennis contrasts this with current budgets, highlighting a significant reduction:
"An eight-page shoot... it's fraction, less than half." (24:04)

Cynthia True (24:33):
She adds that extravagant setups, like renting an aircraft carrier for a shoot, were once standard but are now rare:
"I just remember Tawny Goodman talking about renting an aircraft carrier for a shoot." (24:38)

5. Relationships with Designers and Brand Influence

Cynthia True (29:16):
Cynthia outlines the favored brands at Harper's Bazaar, mentioning Prada, APC, Chanel, Ralph Lauren, and Donna Karan:
"Prada was big... Donna Karan embodied a certain accessibility that Liz was trying to go for." (29:40)

Dennis Galanka (30:09):
Dennis adds to the list, recalling favorite brands like Helmut Lang and Chanel:
"Helmut Lang, for sure. Chanel. Ralph Lauren, too." (30:10)

Lauren Sherman (31:20):
Lauren discusses the shift in brand diversity and body positivity, referencing Donna Karan’s inclusive sizing:
"Donna Karan was such a big thing then... she was like a person who lives in the world and it's glamorous and cool and is not a size 2 or 4." (31:20)

6. Rivalry Between Liz Tilbaras and Anna Wintour

Lauren Sherman (37:50):
Lauren delves into the competitive dynamic between Liz Tilbaras and Anna Wintour, pondering how the fashion industry might have evolved differently had Liz not succumbed to illness.

Cynthia True (37:59):
Cynthia agrees, speculating Liz’s potential ascent to the helm of Vogue:
"Liz would be the editor in chief of Vogue... she would be that now." (37:59)

Dennis Galanka (40:03):
Dennis elaborates on their distinct leadership styles, emphasizing Liz's unique approach compared to Anna’s:
"Liz was amazing. And Anna led differently." (40:49)

7. Liz Tilbaras’s Illness and Departure

Dennis Galanka (43:29):
Dennis narrates an incident where misinformation about Courtney Love led to unintended consequences, revealing the internal pressures surrounding Liz Tilbaras’s health status:
"We did not want people to know Liz was sick... like, what is wrong with you?" (44:45)

Cynthia True (45:55):
Cynthia shares insights from Liz’s memoir, detailing Liz’s struggle with ovarian cancer while maintaining her role:
"Liz had the first 18 months to enjoy... she was feeling tired and weak and attributed it to starting a new magazine." (45:44)

8. Lessons from the Golden Age of Magazines

Dennis Galanka (47:10):
Dennis underscores the importance of trusting and granting creative freedom to employees:
"Give them free reign to really create... risk-taking is so important for success." (47:10)

Cynthia True (47:37):
Cynthia highlights Liz's exceptional judgment in recognizing talent and fostering a warm, inclusive workplace:
"Liz was a great judge of character, a great judge of talent... there was a real warmth to it." (47:37)

Lauren Sherman (48:58):
Lauren reflects on the enduring impact of Liz and the Harper's Bazaar ethos, advocating for creativity without excessive constraints:
"You don't have to torture people for fashion... you don't have to go there to get creative, work out into the world." (48:58)

9. Conclusion and Future Endeavors

Lauren Sherman (49:18):
Lauren encourages Cynthia and Dennis to consider authoring a comprehensive, visually rich book, recognizing the depth of their research and storytelling:
"You guys should do a book... it could be really in-depth and also visually." (49:21)

Cynthia True & Dennis Galanka (49:30):
Cynthia and Dennis express enthusiasm for the idea, appreciating the suggestion and contemplating future projects.

Final Remarks:
Lauren Sherman wraps up the episode by promoting another Puck podcast, The Grill Room, and thanking the production team and partners.

Notable Quotes Highlighted:

• Dennis Galanka (15:26):
  "There is no judgment on your sexuality. So my coming into working there, having that sort of embrace of who you are, it changed my world."

• Cynthia True (16:38):
  "They used to send great accessories to Sarah Mower all the time... I would take those right down to the Strand and get cash to pay my rent."

• Dennis Galanka (23:56):
  "An eight-page shoot... it's fraction, less than half."

• Cynthia True (29:40):
  "Prada was big... Donna Karan embodied a certain accessibility that Liz was trying to go for."

• Lauren Sherman (31:20):
  "Donna Karan was such a big thing then... she was like a person who lives in the world and it's glamorous and cool and is not a size 2 or 4."

• Cynthia True (37:59):
  "Liz would be the editor in chief of Vogue... she would be that now."

• Dennis Galanka (47:10):
  "Give them free reign to really create... risk-taking is so important for success."

Key Takeaways:

1. Golden Era Insight: The 1990s were a transformative period for fashion magazines like Harper's Bazaar and Bizarre, marked by creative freedom, significant budgets, and influential leadership.

2. Gifting Culture: High-end magazines thrived on generous gifting, which fostered strong relationships with designers but also led to ethical challenges.

3. Diverse Relationships: Editors like Liz Tilbaras fostered relationships with a mix of luxury and accessible brands, promoting a versatile and inclusive fashion narrative.

4. Rivalries and Leadership: The competitive relationship between Liz Tilbaras and Anna Wintour played a pivotal role in shaping the direction of fashion publications during that era.

5. Legacy and Lessons: Trusting employees, embracing creativity, and fostering an inclusive and warm workplace environment are crucial lessons from the golden age of magazines that remain relevant today.

6. Personal Connections: The deep personal and professional bonds formed within the magazine environment contributed to the vibrant and dynamic culture that defined Harper's Bazaar during Liz Tilbaras's tenure.

This episode of Fashion People offers a nostalgic yet insightful look into the inner workings of 1990s fashion magazines, emphasizing the importance of leadership, creativity, and workplace culture in shaping the fashion industry's landscape.