FASHION PEOPLE — “Mad Mag”
Host: Lauren Sherman
Guest: Alistair McKim (Founder of Prototype)
Date: March 13, 2026

Episode Overview

In this vibrant Fashion People episode, Lauren Sherman welcomes Alistair McKim—founder of the creative studio and magazine Prototype, and former Editor-in-Chief of i-D—to dissect the Fall 2026 Fashion Month circuit. They dig deep into what’s energizing and frustrating about the big luxury houses, the rise of independent designers, editorial inspiration for a new magazine, fashion show culture, and fashion’s role amid global events. With candor, warmth, and plenty of inside-baseball, they offer an essential postmortem on the current state of high fashion.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. The State of Fashion Month (06:27 – 11:29)

• Lauren and Alistair reflect on the season’s lack of major headlines but find optimism in designers’ creativity and brands’ clarity of vision.
  • Alistair observes “a lot of strong collections” and claims Paris was “really good … exciting week. The weather being good definitely helped.” (08:00)
  • He laments there are “probably not enough independents” and highlights Marc Jacobs, Simone Rocha, and Rick Owens as singular creative voices.
• Lauren notes big brands are beginning to understand that “repetition, product doesn’t sell anymore,” as Jonathan Anderson recently told her (09:19).
• Discussion of the essential task for designers and brands: to give consumers a “why” for wanting to buy anything at all (09:54).
  • Lauren: “No one needs to buy anything. … They’re giving people a reason to be excited about getting dressed and about buying stuff.” (09:59)
• Paris felt more energized than Milan, which was “a lot tougher” despite good weather (10:20).
• Alistair: “Anybody that’s not 100% convincing is over. You know, that’s how it feels.” (11:22)

2. Editorial Inspiration & Alistair’s New Venture (11:29 – 13:59)

• Alistair describes Prototype as “a creative studio and a consultancy agency and … a magazine,” emphasizing editorial as the “shop window” for creative ideas (11:47).
• Intends for Prototype’s inaugural issue to launch in September, with the magazine as one product in a bigger creative ecosystem.
• Both note emerging runway trends—notably, dirt and grassroots themes at Miu Miu, Hermès, and Stella McCartney (13:08–14:18).
  • Memorable exchange:
    Lauren: “There were bugs on the ground at both Hermès and…” —
    Alistair: “Yeah, I don't like getting dirty, so it wasn't ideal.” (14:11)

3. The Power of Wonder & Childlike Inspiration (14:28 – 18:49)

• Discussion of Matthew Williams’ playful, working-class codes at Chanel and emotional set design with crayon motifs. (14:35)
• Lauren likens the wonderment of seeing great fashion to the feelings of childhood, referencing Bottega’s Richard Scarry-themed collection:
  • Lauren: “He’s like trying to get to the core of this wonderment of seeing something for the first time and really enjoying it… it’s fulfilling this childhood fantasy.” (17:14–18:35)
• Alistair: “He really understands that world of wonder and the naivety and the excitement…very childlike.” (18:35)

4. Marc Jacobs, Influence, and Criticism (18:49 – 24:52)

• Lauren and Alistair geek out over Marc Jacobs’ latest credits/receipts page and openness about influences.
  • Alistair: “The credits and receipts is super cool because... for designers to not try and hide the fact that they’re influenced by other designers…especially for Marc. Marc’s such a fashion lover.” (19:02–19:45)
• Marc as “gateway drug to fashion for all of us.”
• The toll of online criticism:
  • Alistair: “Criticism is...an open platform today. That’s what it is…you just sort of have to…how do you deal with that as a creative? It really can…affect your mental health and creativity, but also your business.” (20:10)
  • Cites old i-D mantra: “We’re fans, not critics. Just focus on what you love rather than what you don’t love.” (22:26)
• Lauren acknowledges the complexities of online criticism: “I am pro criticism…but everything is so polarizing, and there’s a lack of understanding the gray area.” (24:52)

5. Clarity vs. Confusion: Calvin Klein & Fashion’s Middle Market (27:26 – 31:03)

• Calvin Klein’s collection dissected:
  • Lauren: “She’s handicapped in so many ways…but I did think [the show] was a clearer idea.” (28:51)
  • Alistair: “You’re not leaving that show with a clear idea of what’s being said… It has to be so crystal clear… Calvin was not crystal clear. Balenciaga was not crystal clear. Those are the collections, for me, that stood out as not precise.” (29:56)
  • Argues the fashion “middle” is falling out; survival depends on “super high luxury fashion” or “amazing high street”—the in-between is struggling (30:33).

6. Independent Designers & Talent Spotlights (32:12 – 34:16)

• Lauren singles out Colleen Allen as a true up-and-comer in New York: “She…makes really commercial, really specific, really beautiful stuff…She could potentially do something more.” (32:12–34:13)
• Simone Rocha gets lavish praise from both for her organizational skills, creative focus, and independence (“That’s vision,”—Alistair, 34:34). Rick Owens named as another ideal of indie success.

7. The Journeys of Big-Name Designers (37:22 – 42:57)

• Daniel Lee’s work at Burberry:
  • Alistair: wanted a more “Northern England” feel—“Like, the coal miner’s Burberry.” (38:07)
  • Lauren agrees the current direction is more “playful,” fitting the trench as key item. (39:57–41:13)
• Discussion on whether big heritage brands could benefit from more playfulness and from hiring younger “responsible” designers (41:53).
• Prada and Miu Miu:
  • Lauren describes Miuccia Prada’s latest as contemplative, “makes you think about life in a way…like, wow, our world is so complex.” (44:09–45:41)

8. Fashion in a Tumultuous World (48:33 – 50:41)

• They reflect on fashion’s frequently “insulated” nature—global events are rarely addressed directly, especially in the U.S., whereas in Europe, politics is ever-present.
  • Alistair: “In the US...you’re either red or blue, that’s it. In Britain…there always felt like more than two sides.” (48:33–49:43)
  • Lauren notes the surprising absence of war talk this season.

9. Milan’s Highlights & Online Hysteria (50:41 – 53:03)

• Gucci’s Demna collection described as “so Demna, but it’s a new Demna.”
  • Lauren: “Speaking of online critics: fuck off about the quality, people. You don’t know what you’re talking about.” (51:31)

10. Celine, Comme des Garçons, Alaïa, and the Power of Styling (53:03 – 56:07)

• Michael Rider at Celine—heralded for his unparalleled styling (54:35).
• Comme des Garçons called “my church” by Alistair (56:07).
• Both discuss the importance—and sometimes the frustration—of backstage interviews (58:42).

11. Raf & Miuccia at Prada: Partnerships & Merchandising (59:44 – 62:40)

• Both deeply admire the partnership:
  • Alistair: “It says a lot about her…that she can do that…She’s just like Wonder Woman.” (59:57)
  • Lauren has become a Prada shopper since Raf joined. “It’s felt so much more connected to me, personally.” (62:16)
  • “There’s always amazing product in the stores.” (62:40)

12. Isabel Marant’s End-of-Day Joy (64:07 – 65:17)

• Lauren and Alistair found the Marant collection “cute,” “energetic,” and fun—a perfect way to close out a show day. (65:09)
• Kim Becker, the new designer, praised for her cool, no-nonsense attitude.

13. Designers in the Right Places—Versace, Alaïa, & More (65:54 – 68:41)

• Alistair happy to see Peter Mulier head to Versace (“it’s a no-brainer…an amazing merchandiser” 65:54).
• Speculative fun on designer “switcheroos”: Christopher Kane and Daria Werbowy floated for Alaïa (68:41).

14. Balenciaga’s Struggle with Clarity (69:17 – 73:53)

• Lauren and Alistair dissect Pierre Paolo’s Balenciaga struggles, feeling his creative strengths aren’t being utilized (“I wanted to see big shapes and feathers…We saw a showroom. No point of view.” – Alistair, 70:24).
• General agreement: Balenciaga lacks a fresh, cohesive vision since Demna.

15. Design Repetition & Retail Frenzy at Chanel (76:26 – 82:58)

• Lauren confesses ongoing obsession with Chanel jackets. (77:00)
• Alistair on fashion’s cyclical frenzy: “Chanel is kind of like the brand that can lift the whole industry up… It’s Chanel’s moment, and he’s brilliant.” (77:27)
• On repeated silhouettes: “Your job as a designer is to propose new silhouettes…if they don’t work, that’s also okay…You have to push.” (81:03)
• The consensus: Matthew Williams at Chanel is successfully merging his aesthetic with the house’s DNA; both are excited to be part of the generation now leading luxury fashion. (83:00)

Notable Quotes & Moments

• Alistair McKim (08:00):

  "When I look back at the month...there’s only a couple of shows...that I’m still focused on or still remember. And Paris was really good. There was a lot of strong collections...it just felt like an exciting week."

• Lauren Sherman (09:19):

  "Jonathan Anderson...sounded like a CEO and he was like, repetition, product doesn’t sell anymore. The consumer has changed the way they think about buying stuff."

• Alistair McKim (29:56):

  “You’re not leaving that show with a clear idea of what’s being said... It has to be so crystal clear... Calvin was not crystal clear. Balenciaga was not crystal clear.”

• Lauren Sherman (51:31):

  “Speaking of online critics: fuck off about the quality, people. You don’t know what you’re talking about. ...the quality is perfectly fine… people are just... full of shit.”

• Alistair McKim (62:40):

  “There’s always amazing product in the stores, you know?”

• Alistair McKim (77:27):

  "Chanel is kind of like the brand that can lift the whole industry up. If everybody's out shopping in a frenzy because of Chanel, it's good for our industry."

• Lauren Sherman (81:03):

  "Your job as a designer is to propose new silhouettes. So if they don't work, that's also okay. He's still proposing something."

Timestamps — Key Segments

• State of Fashion Month: 06:27–11:29
• Editorial Inspiration & Prototype Magazine: 11:29–13:59
• Childlike Wonder in Fashion: 14:28–18:49
• Marc Jacobs & Criticism: 18:49–24:52
• Calvin Klein and Clarity in Fashion: 27:26–31:03
• Spotlighting Colleen Allen; Simone Rocha: 32:12–34:16
• Daniel Lee at Burberry & Brand Identity: 37:22–42:51
• Prada, Miu Miu & Fashion’s Place in the World: 42:56–48:33
• Gucci & Online Quality Disputes: 50:41–53:03
• Celine, Comme, and Show-Stopping Style: 53:03–56:07
• Raf & Miuccia at Prada; Merchandising: 59:44–62:40
• Isabel Marant’s College Nostalgia: 64:07–65:17
• Designers “in their Place” at Major Houses: 65:54–68:41
• Balenciaga’s Growing Pains: 69:17–73:53
• Chanel Retail & Design Repetition: 76:26–82:58

Conclusion

This episode offers a rollicking, candid, and insightful look at the highs and lows of Fashion Month, the seismic shifts shaking up big heritage houses, the enduring value of creative clarity, and the evergreen magic of seeing fashion through the delighted eyes of a child—or at least a life-long fashion obsessive. Lauren and Alistair balance industry realism with a contagious wonder that reminds listeners why anyone falls in love with fashion in the first place.

(Want more insider coverage? Subscribe to Line Sheet for daily scoops from Lauren Sherman at Puck.)