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- [00:02]
A
I'm Brian. I work at UnitedHealthcare.
- [00:04]
B
So Brian, why do you care?
- [00:06]
A
I care because I don't want to leave anybody behind. I oversee one of the biggest resource centers in UnitedHealthcare. I see people walking in my office every day just like my parents. They have no idea about the healthcare. I feel like they are my uncles, aunties. I treated people like family.
- [00:25]
C
I'm Brian and I'm committed to care.
- [00:31]
B
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A
Foreign.
- [01:03]
B
Welcome to Fashion People. I'm Lauren Sherman, writer of Puck's Fashion and Beauty Memo line sheet. And today with me on the show is writer Derek Blasberg. We're talking the best of Paris Fashion Week. Up top, how long gone? Host Jason Stewart joins me to chat about his time in Paris at the Loewe Show. Happy Tuesday, everyone. Hope you're having a great week. This is the last day of Paris Fashion Week. Today is Miu Miu. You can read my reports from the shows and so much more in Line sheet. Sarah Shapiro is also back today with a story on the horror and the incredible success of Addicted. This is the sort of big teen brand of the day. If you remember rave and 579, if you don't have kids or teen girls right now or teen children right now, you might remember those. It's kind of like that, this generation's version of that. It elicits a lot of emotions. People really hate it for some reason. So if you need a break for Fashion Month from Fashion Month, enjoy this. But let's get going with Jason and Derek since it is a doubleheader and they are very as, as the kids say, spicy. I'll talk to you again on Friday. Jason Stewart, welcome back to Fashion People.
- [02:22]
A
Hello. Nice to see you. How are you?
- [02:24]
B
I'm so well. How was your first trip to Paris?
- [02:26]
A
Oh, yeah. Still I keep forgetting that was the very first time I've ever been boots on the ground in Paris. I've of course been to the airport, but yeah, I loved it. Amazing.
- [02:35]
B
How so what did you do? You did have dinner with me, which I felt very privileged,
- [02:42]
A
as did I I didn't. We were there for two days, so not much. Just showed up, sat in our hotel lobby for three or four hours, recorded a podcast, went to dinner with you, edited the podcast, went to bed, went to Loewe show, and then, you know, rode a bicycle around until it was time to go to the after party.
- [03:07]
B
Did you get to have. Because we had Japanese at the only. We don't even need to name the place. The only place that fashion industry people eat during fashion week. But did you have, like, real French food on Friday?
- [03:22]
A
No. No, not really. I mean, I.
- [03:25]
B
Cause you're like, a big. I hate to use this word, but foodie.
- [03:29]
A
I am a big foodie. I don't know. I mean, like, Paris is such an international city, and obviously they have authentic, amazing French food. I had a little bit. I had a bowl of spaetzle that's sort of like. Which is. I don't know if it's that French, but it was like a healing broth, not unlike a pot au faux, the classic French dish of beef stew and vegetables. So I had something like that. But, you know, nothing that I could. Nothing I've never had before. I've eaten all the French fruit and I like it, but it's not my fave.
- [04:03]
B
Yeah.
- [04:03]
A
The cheeses are so stinky.
- [04:04]
B
I want you and Carolyn. So stinky. I want you and Carolyn to come back, though, and, like, eat for real. Because there is good food here.
- [04:13]
A
No, there's amazing food. Carolyn sent me a whole list. You know, Shea, Omar, I believe you know all these places. Of course. All the bistros spelled with the t are all there. I'll do it one day. But, you know, I love the life of leisurely drinking and eating and smoking and cycling.
- [04:31]
B
Yeah, I would say that London. Just because I've been in London, Milan and Paris in the last two weeks, and obviously New York and LA before that. I think London is the best eating city in the world. Let's see how long that lasts now that they're cut off from the rest of the world because of Brexit. But it's my favorite food. I would say, like, there. There's just so many amazing restaurants. Yeah, look, there's, like, River Cafe, but then there's Cafe Sicilia, but then there's Strakers, but then there's like, just. And I mean, it's all sort of the same kind of thing. But if you like a wine bar with some nice cheese and veggies, it's a good place to eat.
- [05:08]
A
For me, actually, tomorrow we're podcasting with Ruthie from River Cafe.
- [05:15]
B
Oh my God, I'm so jealous. I've been wanting to do this forever. And a mutual friend tried to. I'm really mad. I better get. She better come on my podcast next.
- [05:25]
A
Okay, we'll tell her.
- [05:27]
B
So I saw another How Long Goner last night, Plum Sykes, who is very excited to return to your podcast soon because I was at a dinner that her and fellow Max Stein client Becky Malinsky co hosted. It was really nice. But anyway, we were chatting about you all. Why were you in Paris? Let's talk briefly about it. You're a quick guest. Derek Blasberg is on next. But I wanted to chat with you about the reason you came to Paris.
- [06:01]
A
Big Blaz. I'm excited to podcast with Blasberg as well one day. I don't know for certain why exactly I was invited to Paris Fashion Week. If you ask Sarah Moonves, she'll tell you that it was her idea that the boys over at Loewe asked her, who are some cool men that we can give clothes to and have them sit at the show? And she threw our names in the hat and I guess we got called up to the big leagues.
- [06:32]
B
The great and powerful Moonves.
- [06:34]
A
Mm. She moves mountains for us.
- [06:38]
B
Someone was like, I'm gonna do you a favor about something. And I was like, no, you could just let Sarah do it. It's her job. Yeah, she's the queen.
- [06:46]
A
I mean, I guess the other thing is just, you know, last minute marketing budgets for brands. They sort of have their standard demographic covered with K pop idols and you know, all the standard fashion people, Satan worshippers. So, you know, throw in some random stuff. We appeal to a bit of a different market than the standard Loewe world of basketball players and gay guys.
- [07:11]
B
I agree. And also the mix of people at the Loewe show was really interesting. Not only were there stuffed lobsters and other sea creatures in the front row taking front row seats from humans, which I thought was extremely funny because I was in the front row, so obviously didn't care. But they there was. I thought it was really interesting. Usually at these shows you're kind of seated with the same group. I always have random seating cause it's just me. And so I get. I am with other different people every time. But at most shows, like all the New York Times people are together, all the Vogue people are together. And then you're sort of like the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, they are all seated next to each other. I know Eva Chen and Derek Blasberg, speaking of, are seated together a lot. Like they're always seated together because they're kind of both like people who are actually do stuff in the industry but are sort of lone wolves, that sort of thing. I also get. I wouldn't call stuck, but seated with them a good amount. But I thought it was Koh Loewe. Like I was next to Nicole Phelps and Brian Malloy the stylist. And then Brian was next. Emily Rajikowski. Is that how you say her surname? But I have no idea. It was like a mix. Like all the celebs were. Has she ever been on your podcast? She's pretty funny.
- [08:34]
A
She has not. We've talked to. I mean, I know her, we've talked about it a little bit. But I don't think she really needs to do it and, you know, wants to do it.
- [08:45]
B
Yeah, maybe next book. But then like. And I also thought there's celebrity everything to lose.
- [08:51]
A
Sorry, go ahead.
- [08:52]
B
Understood. I also thought their celebrity mix was good. Like they had Sissy Spacek, but they also have Julia Garner's their new face. And it was like, it's really hard now with the celebrity thing because all the big brands take all the big celebrities and, and also the cool celebrities too now are all at the big brand. So I thought they did. Not that Loewe is small, but it's like compared to LV and Dior and Gucci and all that stuff, you know, it's. It's a couple billion instead of 15 billion or whatever. But. So I thought they did a good job. But I'm curious, like, what did you think of the venue? What did you think of the clothes? Give me your full review.
- [09:31]
A
Sure, sure, sure. Yeah. The venue was in a Gingham clad castle 45 minutes outside of town. It felt like I was going to Buckingham palace, kind of, if you, you know, speaking of London. But it was, it was. I've been to a couple fashion shows. This is probably the biggest that I've been to and, you know, very exciting. Loved how, I guess I loved how powerful it was and how it started. All of a sudden it went 0 to 100 and with that kind of bad but perfectly awful techno music playing. I mean, I listen to techno music, so I guess I could speak a little bit about it. But the tempo of it was the perfect speed for all these models to walk in their cunti way. And I felt like I was at the future of fashion, the future of fashion shows.
- [10:24]
B
Did you. That was very thoughtful. Jason, did you know the song?
- [10:31]
A
No. Well, I mean, there was a few different songs or one piece of music that evolved through throughout it, but there was a continuous kind of pulsing beat that was perfectly synced to the people stepping down, keep everything moving at the right pace like ants in a colony maybe. But I don't know, I just like it because you can either do the route or the Kate route and play some interesting, esoteric, groovy stuff. But I like it when a fashion show just says, fuck it, let's just play, you know, what you would expect to hear when you're watching Zoolander or something. Just give me some dumb, cheesy techno and let's really do this thing, you know?
- [11:12]
B
Yeah, I agree. I prefer either that it's very. Like, their work is very propulsive and very athletic. Like, it's always been like that. It's very dynamic. It feels like they're very focused on sport here. But it's always felt that way because they. The colors they use, they use a lot of primary colors. They use really saturated colors. It feels like very. And a lot of technical fabric and 40. So. Yeah. So I like that. But I agree. I either like something like boom, boom, boom or I like some music that I know. Hopefully not. What's that song by the Knife? For years it was like every single fashion show is called, like, Deep Heartbeats. It was just like every single fashion show had that song in it, which I do like that song a lot. I'll listen to it after maybe on my train ride to Chanel.
- [12:07]
A
I'll send you the MP3. I went to Copenhagen Fashion Week. I guess that was a year or two ago to the. To the Ganny show. And their show was really like a. It was like a jock jams medley of like, Fergalicious and like all these kind of like 90s 2000s cheesy pop songs remixed with like, modern day. Like. And it was like, so over the top and dumb that everyone loved it and was dancing in their seats. And, you know, I like that as well. But it's risky.
- [12:36]
B
It is risky. I mean, the Chanel show, which will have happened by the time this airs, unfortunately, we couldn't figure it out to record after. But the Chanel show, Matu Blasey's thing has been like, ending with like a really amazing or a couple amazing 90s songs. Cause he's like, around our age. And the first one was I Don't Wanna Wait by Paula Cole. The second one was Natalie Ambruglia. And the third one was like Oasis and The Verve, it was. It was so good. But, like, I love that kind of thing too. If. If they get it exactly right, then I love it. But it's. It is. It is risky. Jason, I'm gonna let you go because I. I'm gonna chat with Derek about the rest of the week, but. Did you buy a Charvet shirt?
- [13:29]
A
I did not buy a Charvet shirt. I unfortunately did not have time to visit the store. I was gonna just go there to get Carolyn some, you know, another pair of velveteen house shoes. She told me I could pick out whatever color I wanted to give her, but I'm a Charvet fan. I just got a tie, but I haven't had the pleasure of the made to measure yet.
- [13:51]
B
Well, next, you and Carolyn have to come while we're here, and we'll go. And we'll all go shopping together. Also, I will leave you, but I'm really sad we don't get to talk about the NOMA scandal. Did you and Chris talk about it on how Long Gone?
- [14:07]
A
Yeah, check out how Long Gone available wherever you listen to podcasts where we can discuss all of this and more at length.
- [14:14]
B
Can't wait. Have a good rest of your day. Say hello to LA for me.
- [14:19]
A
I will. Thanks, Lauren. See you guys soon.
- [14:21]
B
Much love. Bye. Derek Plasberg, welcome back to Fashion People by popular demand.
- [14:29]
C
Was it popular?
- [14:30]
B
Derek, I have to tell you, the messages that I got the last time you were on Polarizing Episode.
- [14:38]
C
Why polarizing?
- [14:40]
B
Some people. Some people were like, you are so mean to Derek. Other people were like, derek hates you. It was awesome.
- [14:47]
C
Wow. I agree with. I agree with both responses. Lauren, I'm so happy to be back. Thank you for having me.
- [14:53]
B
I'm so happy for you to be here. How is your Paris Fashion Week so far?
- [14:57]
C
Paris Fashion Week is incredible. I'm feeling very inspired, very well rested. The weather has been fantastic. I sat out of Milan this season because for the first time ever, I'm gonna go to the Salon design fair. And so I thought, oh, I'm gonna be there too. Wow. Sequel number three coming in hot.
- [15:20]
B
I think we have to do it, actually.
- [15:22]
C
So I came in here fresh as a daisy. So I hit the ground running.
- [15:26]
B
What are you gonna do at Salone?
- [15:29]
C
Well, I don't know. It's my first time. What should I do in Salone? Have you been to go to.
- [15:32]
B
Do you want to go to a. No, but my husband has been and I have lots of friends that go. Would you like to come to my Puck private dinner?
- [15:42]
C
Wow. I feel Like I'm being put on the spot. So I'm gonna say yes here and I'll let you know the real answer later. How about that?
- [15:49]
B
Sounds good.
- [15:50]
C
I know there's a lot going on. Ralph Lauren has a dinner in this incredible palazzo they have there. Martina Mondadori of Cabana magazine. Sort of. I am told she sort of runs the joint. And she has this incredible Maniardino design department in central Milan. Manjiardino is my fantasy decorator. And I know T magazine does a big thing. I am told the best part of Salone is that it's much more democratic feeling than Fashion Week. There's few things that are invite only, Velvet Rose exclusive. So I'm happy to. And I love Milan. So I'll see you soon. Milan, sorry I missed your Fashion Week.
- [16:30]
B
You might not be able to come to my dinner if you are going to one of those other dinners, because they probably are the same night. But it isn't the same night as tea, because I wanted to go to tea as well. But we'll discuss afterwards. Yeah, I think it's. I've heard that it's super fun. I do think it's a little crazy there during this period because I know that my. My housing, my. The apartment I stay in was much more expensive during Salone than it is during Milan Fashion Week. So I think it's a little bit more of a nutty scene in terms of I don't think you're going to be able to get a cap is what I would say. But I think it's a much more fun vibe.
- [17:10]
C
The hotels are also expensive. The hotels are much more expensive than Fashion Week 2. So. So what does that tell us? What can we infer?
- [17:18]
B
I don't know. No. I'm excited for your dispatch on the next the Salone episode of Fashion People.
- [17:24]
C
Me too.
- [17:25]
B
Let's talk Paris. So you skipped Milan. Should we just. Do you want to talk about your favorite shows of the week? Should we just kind of go through the week and start out with Dior, which was. That was before Saint Laurent. Right. So, like, that was sort of the beginning of it for me. I don't know about you.
- [17:43]
C
Dior and Saint Laurent were on the same day. And both, I thought, super immersive fashion experiences, obviously to much different results. Dior was sunny and tropical and we all felt like hothouse orchids sitting in our chairs watching the collection inspired by water lilies and that incredible fountain in the middle of the Tuileries, that special Runway constructed on top of it. And Then of course, Saint Laurent always shows the women's wear collections in the Trocadero. And they built a sexy, clean, minimal glass box. Did you see at the end of the Runway, they built an oversized version of a bust that Pierre.
- [18:28]
B
I didn't see that.
- [18:29]
C
And YSL owned, so.
- [18:33]
B
Oh, interesting.
- [18:34]
C
Those are the kind of shows that I am excited to come to in Paris. There are big productions, booming soundtracks, lots of looks, especially in the case of Dior, a lot of merch, a lot of, you know, great accessories, bags for women of all ages. I think Jonathan Anderson is doing an incredible job. And I imagine LVMH was very pleased with his appointment there because of all the stuff women, my friends of all ages are really. Yeah, you. Some were skeptical. What was your take?
- [19:07]
B
Well, no, I mean, I love the collection. The interesting thing, you know who wore a Dior look this week was Ricky de Soleil. And she looked amazing. She had like the little bar jacket from the first collection and it was perfect.
- [19:24]
C
Did she look better than Harry Styles at the Grammys?
- [19:26]
B
She did. He looked amazing. Best dressed at the Grammys, but. And I think honestly, their best red carpet effort to date. But she looked great. And I was like, okay, now I see this on a person in real life and it feels really, really good. I thought it was interesting. I went to the pre show interview in the morning and it was so helpful because Jonathan Anderson is a very articulate person and brilliant and has a lot of things to say about the industry. And it sort of guided my coverage for the week, all the things he said about the way they think about product. And one thing he mentioned was, you know, what they made for the Runway is like, I don't know, probably 500 of thousands of pieces of clothing and accessories and things for every season that they do. You know, it's not just those 12 collections, it's apres ski collection. It's all this stuff. And yeah, I think to me, I really like the couture as well. To me, this felt the clearest of what he's proposing that you should wear if you shop Dior. And I also thought it was extremely pretty, which my. The first collection in particular, I felt it felt too strained to me. Whereas this just felt so pretty and so dimensional and the fabrics were beautiful. And the one thing I will say is that like looking at it straight on, on in the images, it looked better in person. And I wondered if I didn't go to the first show, like, I wondered if I had seen the first show, would I have liked it more like sometimes you see a show in photos and you like it more than you like it in person. But with his work there in particular, I think it's so textural, too, that it does make a difference to see it in person. And then I also. I went. I've been doing a lot of, like, retail, checking out retail. Not shopping too much, but just checking stuff out. And at Selfridges, they had a popup of his first collection. And I thought the retail looked really good too. But, yeah, it seems like it's really working now and sort of falling into place. And it was so confident. And I loved Saint Laurent, too. I think Saint Laurent is so influential on kind of how women dress today. And I also like that. That felt like a home. The way they set up the glass. It was two glass boxes, which was funny, too. Like two. One day, two. Two mega brands, two glass boxes. But the Saint Laurent one, it felt like we were in someone's house, and I liked that. And it made me also think, wow, they have, like, so much opportunity in home as well.
- [22:09]
C
Well, they've done a couple of collaborations. Did a Charlotte Perry Allen collaboration. Maybe they did a collaboration. And I guess not to mention they've done all of their films and movies. So I guess there's something to be said about designers and brands looking to do more than just shoes and handbags and cocktail dresses.
- [22:30]
B
Yeah, you gotta build a world. What else did you like this week? There's been so much. It's just overwhelming. Every day it's a different story. I could write 5,000 words a day on this stuff.
- [22:47]
C
I loved the Row, which was the next day gorgeous. The Row woman had some more polish and a few less layers this season. It felt more of an uptown sophisticate, which I love. That day also had Tom Ford, Peter Moulier's last show for Alaia. Were you at the Alaia show?
- [23:09]
B
I was not.
- [23:11]
C
That was very emotional.
- [23:14]
B
It was beautiful. I went to the rescind the next day, and it was gorgeous.
- [23:18]
C
But to be in that room, Peter also invited a lot of students to come see the collection. When he did that phenomenal Guggenheim show in New York, which I think was winter 23 or winter 24. And so he invited students to this show, and I think doing that adds so much enthusiasm and excitement into the air because we have these people who have such a genuine passion. And, of course, it was his last show, and Matthieu Blase was there and Raf Simmons was there, and everyone was very emotional at his bow. I'm Very excited, of course, to see what he's gonna do at Versace, but he was so good at Alaia, so there was. It was a bittersweet moment.
- [23:58]
B
Same. I. I was at the Guggenheim show, and that it was. It is nice to have. It felt like I just. From the imagery that I saw from the show, that it was very stuffed, which it. With people who are very enthusiastic, which is always, like, a nice way to end it. Like, it's emotional and all that. I would say that, you know, going to see the collection, and he's so good at shoes and bags too, which is going to be so helpful at Versace. But the one thing I would say is, like, as. As sad as it is, and people love his Alaya, and I was a big customer of it. I bought two dresses and a jacket, which is, like, all of my budget for a year. What I would say is that, like, stuff also runs its course, and sometimes, like, he was there for four years. It's kind of a nice capsule of a time in fashion. And maybe it's okay that he's moving on and someone else comes in and he's gonna have so much more resources and so much more infrastructural support at Versace that, like, he's capable of so much. And I'm excited to see what he can do with a brand that, to me, is truly the Chanel of Italy and has so much potential that Alaia is a precious brand. But it's a small brand, and it may never be big just because of the way it's managed. And so I think it's. It seemed like a nice end.
- [25:33]
C
I don't disagree with any of that, but I think we have to push back on saying that four years is an acceptable tenure for a designer. I'm one of those people who was getting frustrated by the musical chairs. Karl Lagerfeld was at Fendi for half a century. He started at Chanel in 1982, and he passed away in 2019. I always admire designer appointments that stand the test of time when you have good ideas, when you have bad ideas. But having said all that, I'll be excited to see what Peter does at Versace, and I hope he's there for many, many, many years.
- [26:10]
B
Yeah, I don't know. I mean, I don't know if I agree. I think that, like, I understand what you're saying, but I think that, like, sometimes by the end of Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, for instance, there were two things that was about the spectacle of the show and Then the commercial, it wasn't about kind of adding to the fashion conversation. And I do think sometimes they are so much more. And also, Karl Lagerfeld is like a unique person who can produce a lot and his brain could handle it a la Jonathan Anderson. I think some people, who knows Peter might have stayed at alaia for another 5 years or another 10 years and done much more and expanded that world. But I think it kind of reminds me of a TV show. And sometimes TV shows last too long and sometimes they end early and you're sort of like, sad, like My so Called Life. Only one season. Daria Vitali. Only one season.
- [27:15]
C
But I think like, so Daria Vitaly is Jordan Catalano.
- [27:21]
B
Jordan and Jordan Canilano. But I think sometimes it's just like, okay, this is what it was and we should just be happy that it existed in this capsule of time instead of, you know what I mean, like, thinking they should be here for this amount or they shouldn't, when maybe it shouldn't be so focused on the designer themselves and more on the sort of architecture of the brand or what have you. But I see what you're saying. Work moves fast. From emails and reports to proposals and updates. You're expected to think clearly, write confidently, and get it right the first time. And every message counts. That's where Grammarly comes in. It gives you everything you need to think, write and finish in one place or anywhere you type and text. You'll never have to switch tools or tabs. Grammarly's AI agents are built for how you work and where you work so you can find the right words, adjust your tone, and predict how your message might land before you hit send. Your ideas will get a boost while still sounding natural, credible, and just the way you want. For nearly 17 years, Grammarly has been the standard for responsible AI. It's the premier writing tool that 93% of users trust to get more work done in a world of generic AI. Don't sound like everyone else. With Grammarly, you never will. Download Grammarly for free@Grammarly.com that's Grammarly.com it is not hard to destroy a college. Last season, the podcast Campus Files brought
- [29:01]
C
you stories of fraternity, drug rings, stolen
- [29:04]
B
body parts, campus cults, and more.
- [29:06]
C
And now Campus Files is back for another season. There's a guy screaming into his phone. He's like, I just saw Charlie Kirk get assassinated right in front of me. Every week is a new episode and a new story. It was so chaotic.
- [29:18]
B
It's almost like a university under siege. Listen to and follow Campus files available now wherever you get your podcasts.
- [29:28]
C
The next day was the Chloe show, which I thought was the hottest ticket of Paris Fashion Week. There were so many people in that.
- [29:34]
B
Did you like it?
- [29:36]
C
I love what Shamina does after the show. I asked her if she knew what a big deal Oprah is and how cool it would be to have Oprah at her show. And she said that Oprah's actually a big Chloe customer, which I was. Which I was happy to hear, by the way. Oprah has gone to as many shows as I have. She's been very present at Paris Fashion Week this season.
- [29:59]
B
She's shopping. Did you ask her why?
- [30:04]
C
I did I asked Shamina or did I ask her?
- [30:07]
B
I bet she'll be at Chanel.
- [30:09]
C
I saw some pictures of her walking out of the Ritz with Lena Nair, the CEO of Chanel. So I think you're right. I think we will be seeing her tonight at 7pm of course, we're recording this before the Chanel show so we won't be able to talk about that. But yes, I'm looking forward to seeing her at that show too.
- [30:28]
B
I also heard from people who have seen the Chanel that it looked really good. Obviously that's what everyone's really waiting for is the Chanel show. Maybe you'll be seated next to Oprah and you can ask her what she placed for her personal order for all these different things.
- [30:44]
C
Well, watch this space. Follow my substack to see what Oprah is buying from Chanel tonight at the show.
- [30:50]
B
What did you think of Givenchy?
- [30:52]
C
I like Givenchy. I thought that was Sarah Burton's best collection for that brand yet. There were some incredible dresses that I thought would look good on red carpets. In the steps of the Met Gala, you seem a little more skeptical.
- [31:07]
B
I think she's doing an amazing. Well, I didn't love it, but she. I think she's doing an amazing job with the red carpet. I think it's the best red carpet that's out that's going on right now. And I don't know how much budget they have, but it's definitely not as much as some of the other brands and I just think they are. It's, it looks really fantastic. They always had great red carpet with Riccardo Tisci as well and Claire Way color. But I think it really works for me on the red carpet and it makes a lot of sense. The proposition of it makes a lot of sense. I think something that Jonathan said in that pre show interview was trying to find. He said something about finding the why of why something should exist. And he is figuring that out for what that means. A Dior with the hand feel and knowing that the finish is a Dior finish or whatever. I think that's a question a lot of these brands need to be asking. Like, why should someone shop your brand versus another brand? What are you bringing to the table? And that's something that I've been thinking about a lot the last few days of what is like Celine, I think, is answering that question really well. Like, they are making a softer bag than everyone else. Their shoes are the exact right shape of shoe. You want the details on the lining of the trench is right. It just feels like, yes, I know exactly who the person is that's buying that and why.
- [32:55]
C
Celine was one of my favorite shows so far this week. I think all that stuff is super optimistic and fresh. And I think I always tease Harper's Bazaar's editor in chief, Samir Nassar, that she's the muse at Celine because it's always with a wink spot of color. I'm happy for Michael Ryder and he always has a really incredible front row. I was sitting across from Gus Van Santa. I think that's how I say it, right? Gus Van Sant, the own Private Idaho director. So I loved being at that show. Another highlight for me was going to the French palace to see. And truth be told, Oprah said that was the real reason that she had come to Paris from Hawaii. But I guess while you're in Paris, might as well hit up a few shows too, right?
- [33:59]
B
Did you go to that big gala as well, at the Louvre?
- [34:03]
C
I did not go to the Louvre gala.
- [34:05]
B
It was very chic.
- [34:07]
C
I went last year.
- [34:08]
B
Did. I guess it's. No, I didn't go.
- [34:11]
C
I went last year, but this year it overlapped.
- [34:14]
B
I'm good.
- [34:14]
C
I think this year it overlapped with the YSL show, so.
- [34:21]
B
Ah, okay. That's too bad. Well, next year they need to figure that out because they need you to be there for sure.
- [34:30]
C
A tricky time for the Louvre. Did you see the crown? The image? I was so saddened. The Louvre released the pictures of the crown that was stolen and accidentally discarded by the thieves.
- [34:45]
B
Oh, my.
- [34:46]
C
And it was crumbled and had been run over. So it was. And then, of course, the head of the Louvre tried to step down in the wake of the robbery. And it sounded like President Macron did not accept her resignation. But after deeper investigations. There are a lot of issues at the Louvre. So then ultimately she did step Down. So I hope whoever was at that party had a nice time because I think the Louvre has some work to do over there.
- [35:16]
B
There is. There's actually a great air mail story about the situation there that everyone should read. What else? Oh, Loewe.
- [35:27]
C
I'm so excited for those guys. I have been friends with Jack and Lazaro since I was in college. I loved it. I thought it was great since I was in college. And it's been so exciting to see them move to Paris and start this incredible new chapter. And I'm sure you know this, but that show was the first time they showed menswear looks. And so it looks like they're. They're getting their sea legs and. Or stretching their sea legs or whatever nautical appendage analogy we can use here. But were you seated by a stuffed animal from the artist?
- [36:03]
B
No, I wasn't. I was across from a stuffed animal. I was in between. I just actually, we talked about. There was across from the stuffy. Across from me, I believe was a lobster. I can't remember. I was actually. Jason Stewart came on right before you to discuss. Cause he and Chris Black, who apparently you've never been on their podcast, you need to go on it. They were flown to Paris for the Loewe show in particular. And I did think it was funny that there were stuffed animals in the front row. I know they're pieces of art. But they also did take seats.
- [36:45]
C
It was the artist, Kassimo Von Boonen, who created those stuffed animals. Were you surprised that Jason and Chris had been flown in for the Loewe show?
- [36:53]
B
They were very fun.
- [36:55]
C
I listened to their podcast recapping their trip to Paris for the Loewe show today on my walk to Barry's boot camp. Sounded like they had a good time.
- [37:03]
B
That's a very crisp thing to be doing, going to Barry's Boot Camp in Europe. But yeah, they had a great time. And I was saying to Jason, I thought that the front row, or actually all of the seating at Loewe, because there were, I think, only two rows. I thought it was so great. It wasn't. They really mixed people up in a way that. And I actually mentioned how you are seated often by Eva Chen. You and I some days will be seated together multiple times, which is fine, but usually they kind of stick all the New York Times people with the New York Times people, the Wall Street Journal with the Wall Street Journal, the Vogue with the Vogue. And it felt much more mixed up this at Loewe. I thought that their front row was awesome. And I thought the show was great. But, you know, I've been in. I went to the Avenue Montaigne store and then also went to Casa loewe on Rue St. Honore today, which is like their brand new renovated store. And I thought it looked really good. And the product just looked so good from the first collection. Like, I wanted to buy a jacket, a skirt. I thought about buying a sweater. I didn't buy anything because I'm. I'm figuring out my budget because Chanel. But I wanted to buy a bunch of stuff and I thought it looked. I tried on a dress the other day. It looked amazing.
- [38:28]
C
Lauren, let's double click on that. What is your budget? What is your seasonal shopping budget? I would like a dollar amount.
- [38:35]
B
My seasonal shopping budget is whatever I can do and not be in debt and also pay all my mortgage and all my other shit.
- [38:42]
C
Give me a range.
- [38:43]
B
Give me a range, save money and all of that. This is what I will say. I wasn't gonna buy anything this season. Or maybe like one. There's a jacket I want from Loewe that I will get at some point in the next nine months. But the jacket I wanted from Chanel that I was talking to your friend Lauren Santo Domingo about the other night. I'm not gonna say it out loud, but what I will say is that it is less than half of what I originally thought it would be. And so with a discount and the VAT return, it's like a quarter of what it was on the line sheet. And I want this jacket so badly. So I am gonna get it for myself. And that's gonna be the thing I get this season.
- [39:26]
C
I love hearing my girlfriends rationalize and itemize their fashion purchases. It's half as much as I thought it would be. And with the vat, well, Lauren was
- [39:37]
B
like, do you want to split? We should split the jacket.
- [39:40]
C
But it's fascinating to hear.
- [39:41]
A
How
- [39:45]
B
are you dreaming of the perfect prom? That there's just one thing holding you back. Speak English, Mom. Welcome to Ethnosync Ethnic Modification.
- [39:55]
C
What is this place? We help you reach your true potential.
- [39:59]
B
How are you feeling? It's good to be Hawaii.
- [40:04]
C
Hey, new girl. Hey.
- [40:05]
B
Look at what you've done to yourself. For a new plant to grow, the seed has to die. Slanted Rated R Only in theaters March 13th. Side effects may occur.
- [40:16]
C
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- [40:47]
B
are you going to buy anything from Chanel? I heard the men's I don't think
- [40:50]
C
I am destined to buy anything from Chanel, Sam.
- [40:54]
B
I heard they made the shoes in men's sizes.
- [40:57]
C
Do they?
- [40:58]
B
It's not for you.
- [40:59]
C
I have not seen a Apparently there
- [41:01]
B
was a rumor Jose from Vanity Fair
- [41:03]
C
said this if I could look like Jacob Elordi wearing Chanel, I'd wear it all. But sadly I don't know if that's my destiny. I look more like Frankenstein. Zing.
- [41:16]
B
I think you would look great. Have a lot of your friends bought stuff? I saw Samira today in her Chanel jacket. It feels like everybody bought something the last few days.
- [41:27]
C
I did see a lot of people posting from the last three days. I guess this is I guess the first MeToo delivery arrived in shops two days ago. So there was a line outside and so all the girls were pulling strings to get in there. I like that. I'm happy to hear that there is now sort of a frenzied return to buying the day that it comes out and going to stores and having experiential retail.
- [41:57]
B
As a business reporter, I am sad that the numbers are not going to be published until 2027. But it's exciting. I was like, oh wow this worked and that's great. I went into the Royale store and was able to try on my jacket which was already sold out at Cambone. So I got really lucky cause they only had it one left in the two sizes that I was like I could wear either size.
- [42:24]
C
So it sounds like you got the jacket. The jacket has been acquired.
- [42:28]
B
Well, the jacket is waiting for me at the store so I need to go get it. But yeah, I'm very excited. It's a real moment. It's my second. It's the first thing I bought from full price from Chanel since 2010 when I bought a Chanel flatbed.
- [42:48]
C
You haven't bought anything from Chanel in 16 years?
- [42:52]
B
Nope. I have a black lambskin flap bag that is gorgeous and I love it and I have a Chanel jacket that I bought secondhand at re see. But no, I have not bought one thing from Chanel in that period. I wasn't really a Chanel Girl. I appreciated it, but I wasn't.
- [43:13]
C
Well, now I know why you were saying such disparaging things about Karl Lagerfeld.
- [43:20]
B
I just saying the truth. You know, Derek, I speak the truth. That's why I'm not invited to every fashion show.
- [43:28]
C
You do speak your truth, Lauren. I don't know if it's the truth, but I am here to support it.
- [43:33]
B
I speak my truth.
- [43:34]
C
Are you back? Are you back in all the shows now?
- [43:37]
B
Most of them. If I'm not banned from one show every fashion week, something's wrong. I'm not doing my job. That's my feeling.
- [43:46]
C
That's one career goal. Sure.
- [43:48]
A
Yes.
- [43:49]
B
Should I be banned is a question.
- [43:54]
A
No.
- [43:54]
B
But, like, you know, this is how the industry works, and I'm fine with it. I personally had a great week. I got to go to all the shows I wanted to go to.
- [44:06]
C
I think it's the prerogative of the designers to invite whomever they want to invite. There's no freedom of the press in the fashion industry.
- [44:13]
B
It seems like that's the case now. Yeah, the press is freer this season, that's for sure. I know this was the season of. I really got lucky. I got to go to all the shows I wanted to go to, and they were good, which is, you know, sometimes they're not.
- [44:31]
C
I do think this week has been incredible. I've been super inspired.
- [44:38]
B
Yeah. It also feels like everyone's settled. It's like the dust settled or the powder settled on the mountain like it was. The last season was so wild. And so this season, it was kind of everyone settling in and showing what they're really worth. And I think a lot. Not everyone delivered, but I think a lot of them did. And that was. That was exciting. One other thing I wanted to ask you about. Did we go through all the super amazing shows? I mean, obviously, we love. Did you love Tom Ford as much as I did?
- [45:19]
C
You told me Tom Ford was your favorite show. I am such a Heider Ackerman fan, and I thought it was an incredible. I love what Heider does, period. I love the legacy of Tom Ford, exclamation point. And so that. That show, for me, was definitely memorable, but it was. It was funny. Of all the shows, you said this was your favorite one. I was intrigued that you were so inspired by it. Why do you think that is?
- [45:46]
B
I liked. I thought that it was. I think when we discussed it, it probably was the day after the show. So that was Thursday, and there were many more shows to come, but I Would say I would. It still was my look. Here's the thing I think people want right now. They want great clothes that they can wear in their life somehow. And what he's proposing is for. I'm not saying special occasion, but like a more dressed up life. But I thought the colors, the silhouettes, if you're gonna buy a suit, you're gonna buy it from him. And also the thing about Tom Ford Women's previously, which I really liked, it was very eccentric. What I think Heider Ackerman is doing is. It's not. It's still specific, but it feels more again in the conversation of like, how real people dress. And if I was, you know, if I needed a bunch of suits, that's where I would go if I needed. I also thought the styling was really interesting in that it was kind of old school in the way you could see people taking the styling of those clothes and using it in real life, whereas Celine just feels like real life. The styling of the Heider show felt like, oh, I could take these ideas of the banker stripe shirt under the sweater with the sheer skirt and try to make that outfit myself. And it felt like very prescriptive and instructional. So you could just like create those outfits with stuff you have in your wardrobe or what have you. Whereas Michael at Celine, I think is like reflecting how people dress already, people with style. And you could do the same thing. Like on Sunday night. I, like, took a bunch of stuff in my wardrobe and tried to create one of the Celine outfits for dinner. But I think there was something like, very editorial. Like, I could see all the Tom Ford stuff on the COVID of Elle in 1999 or whatever. It felt like old school in this really fun way or in a fresh way. And I also loved that it was a bright white box, which a. You could see the clothes, you could photograph them really well. And it also exposed every single person in the audience for what they really are. Because it was at 7pm on a Wednesday night. And. And it's before you go home to, like, do your makeup. It's. You've been out all day, you feel terrible. And so you could just like, see everyone's age, which I loved. It's just a fun. It was a fun. It was a great show. And it, like, was exactly what that brand should be, which is a growing part of the Zhenya Group and, you know, a cash cow for Estee Lauder. So I just thought he really nailed the assignment.
- [48:56]
C
I saw that Samuel Hine wrote for gq, that those were the jeans, the season's best jeans. Everyone wants these Tom Ford jeans, which I liked. I loved those jeans. And I also have to, I agree with everything you said, but I also want to call out that I loved the presentation, I loved the casting, and I love, I'm such a sucker for 90s era model formations. Multiple exits, three men doing the fake, walking to work, holding the briefcase. I love when we see non traditional walk forward, turn around, walk back on a Runway. In fact, I would like to make this a call to arms for all designers to get more kooky when it comes to staging your runways.
- [49:42]
B
I agree. And also they did make. The models did make some eye contact, but it wasn't too much. It wasn't in like a creepy way. There was just a couple times they would catch your eye and I thought that was very savvy and hard to pull off because if you too much eye contact is uncomfortable. But in this case I thought it was, it was clever. What else did we see? This. You know what I thought was really pretty was McQueen.
- [50:11]
C
I loved McQueen and I liked it. And it was another non traditional Runway. It was a swirling sort of maze of a box with these thin scrims that all raised for the grand finale and you exposed everyone. Another non traditional Runway formation. So we're getting there, Lauren. One thing I will say about this fashion week that was unexpected for me personally was that I, I didn't stay up as late as I used to. I didn't go out as much as I used to.
- [50:42]
B
Why is that, Derek?
- [50:44]
C
I don't know. Maybe I'm making peace with my, my, my middle aged gay dad era. Maybe this is my first season. I didn't stay up past midnight more than maybe once or twice. Last night I went to Carlos Nazario's birthday party and the first night I went to Jonathan's after party for the Dior show. Carlos's party was fabulous. It was at a friend's apartment, but it was a lot of.
- [51:10]
B
It looked really fun.
- [51:13]
C
It was a lot of glamorous people lounged on low slung sofas, Rick Owens furniture, and the smell of cigarettes floating through the air and scented candles. That was very fun. But again, I asked where the bathroom was and made my exit.
- [51:39]
B
Yeah, I mean, do you usually stay out till like 3am?
- [51:43]
C
I used to. I mean, my career started as being a party photographer. Excuse me, a party writer. Remember style.com?
- [51:51]
B
true.
- [51:52]
C
Remember the Blast blog?
- [51:53]
B
I remember Blas blog. Yeah, of course.
- [51:56]
C
So that was my, the PM shift was my bread and my butter. Now I'm waking up clear eyed and bushy tailed for these morning shows.
- [52:07]
B
Do you think that perhaps though that is just not as much of a thing anymore too? Like I know that yes, you are a dad, we are in our 40s, all of that stuff. But do you think I also, I mean I never go out, but I also was, I slept eight hours many nights this season, which is the first time in a long time.
- [52:27]
C
Now you're just showing off.
- [52:28]
B
Lauren, I, I have to sleep, Derek. I don't understand how people don't sleep. It's not healthy. I did not sleep very much in Milan and I felt ill. I was ill. That, that is what I will say. Like it, I did not feel good from it.
- [52:44]
C
In Mark Meducci's first Hollywood issue, I did an oral history of the golden age of clubbing. I don't know if you saw it. It's, it's on vanityfair.com and maybe I'll excerpt it in a new issue or a new post of my substack. But I will say that one thing that kept coming up in that research in my interviews for that piece was that all the people who were organizing those parties in the early 2000s and mid 2000s and early noughties or tens or whatever we're supposed to call them is that that was definitely an era. This is to answer your question earlier, if people are going out as much, that was a time when you really measured fun in broken shoes and blisters in your heels. And we now live in an era when people measure fun in likes and Instagram. And I'm not complaining, obviously. I definitely hitched my career to the social media train. But to your point, maybe people are going out less. I assume that I'm just not invited as much as I used to be to some of these late night shenanigans. But to your point, maybe more people are trying to get eight hours of sleep. There's definitely, there's definitely been a fair amount of reporting on Gen Z's commitment to mental health and wellness, which we definitely didn't talk about in 2005 and 2006.
- [54:08]
B
Well, I also think there was just like now if you get sloppy drunk, there is evidence of it. Like Hanuk Hanuk is the only evidence of you all getting sloppy drunk in 2006. Like there is just, I think that's a big part of it too. Like social media is a part of it. Because if you. Emily, Don Long did a fun thing in New York where she did like A dance party. I'm sure that was fun, but I think that that is part of the thing is that, like, a, yes, everyone is healthier and really thinking about their longevity. But B, you just can't be messy like that. Like, I got into it with someone at the Celine show, was sitting in my seat, and I was not like. I was just like, you have to move. You're in my seat. And afterwards I was like, I hope. Like, it just is. You have to really be careful about how you act. Like, I was just. I was not rude to her, but I also was pretty stern. Like, look, this is my seat. I'm sorry that she claimed her seat had been taken. We'll never know. She ended up getting a very good seat. So it's fine, but it's just an interesting thing. You really have to watch, like, every single thing you say and do. And I think going out and partying is part of that. And also, there is just like, people go to wine bars now. They're not like, going to clubs at 3am or what have you. I mean, they are, but not as much.
- [55:53]
C
Well, I'm happy we did. I had. I had a doozy.
- [56:00]
B
I'm happy for you too. Okay.
- [56:03]
C
You just telling your story. You just telling your story about Celine reminds me of as someone who, in the very, very early days of my career, was obviously not invited to a lot of fashion shows. So I would be that crasher, and I would sort of hold my breath that I would be able to stay in a certain seat until the lights finally went down and the first girl came out. Nowadays, when someone asks me if I'm in my right seat, even if it has my name on it and I'm supposed to be sitting there, I still have this ptsd. Oh, I don't know. Should I move? So I think you saying that. Who are you texting right now? Lauren Sherman.
- [56:40]
B
You were texting someone right before.
- [56:44]
C
Wow.
- [56:46]
B
I'm saying to our Slack channel that we don't need to issue a correction for something about, like, a word being wrong. Like, it's not a. It's not a big deal. I don't think we need to have a correction in the newsletter for this.
- [57:03]
C
Wow. Anyway, are you suggesting that sometimes your newsletter is wrong, Lauren Sherman? Is there always.
- [57:09]
B
I always admit my mistakes. Derek Blasberg. Okay, so is that it?
- [57:16]
C
What else. What else did you
- [57:19]
B
wanted to discuss with you? Your. This little event you're doing at Gagosian on Tuesday.
- [57:29]
C
Oh, fantastic.
- [57:30]
B
Because you do have this other job. Apparently.
- [57:33]
C
I'm so happy that you remembered to ask me since this was the reason I was supposed to be on the podcast today.
- [57:40]
B
You agreed. This is the reason. You agreed tomorrow.
- [57:43]
C
Thank you for reminding me to host my own promo tomorrow night at the Gagosian Gallery here in Paris on Rouge de Castiglione. Wes Anderson, the famed filmmaker, curated a special gallery experience based entirely on the work of the artist Joseph Cornell. Joseph Cornell was this fabulous, eccentric artist who lived in his mom's basement in Queens and built all of these small dioramas and vignettes which basically. And as soon as you see them, you'll understand they inspired a large part of Wes's aesthetic. And so Wes recreated the entire basement in that house in Queens inside the gallery. And you observe it from outside the gallery as if it was one giant life sized diorama. And Lauren, if you are here tomorrow, and I think you mentioned that you are not only here, you're here with the child. It's very kid friendly. So I look forward to seeing you there tomorrow.
- [58:43]
B
I'm gonna bring him. I can't wait.
- [58:45]
C
Anyone else who is in Paris, please come and say hi. We'll be there tomorrow. And it's once again Wes Anderson's curation of Joseph Cornell's exhibition at Gagosian in the same building as the hotel cost.
- [59:00]
B
Derek.
- [59:01]
C
You know, thank you for reminding me.
- [59:02]
B
You might regret that there might be a group of fashion people listeners at the door. Should I bring fashion people person hats for everybody? Do you have one?
- [59:17]
C
I don't think you've ever given me any swag or merch. I've got nothing from you. Just heartache.
- [59:25]
B
And maybe I'll bring one for you.
- [59:26]
C
That's all I've gotten from you.
- [59:31]
B
You know I love you.
- [59:31]
C
Well, great. Well, Lord, what are you wearing to Chanel? What are you wearing to Chanel?
- [59:35]
B
I'm gonna wear a sweater and jeans. I would never wear my Chanel jacket to Chanel. You know that I'm not that kind of person. I'm gonna wear a theory sweater and a Phoebe filo belt and a pair of jeans. But I can't wait to wear my Chanel jacket tomorrow to your event.
- [59:55]
C
A theory sweater to Chanel. I mean, do I need to say anything more?
- [60:00]
B
I'm a woman of the people, Derek.
- [60:02]
C
Nowadays, wow.
- [60:06]
B
I'm a woman of the people. I'm wearing my Chanel to Miu Miu and to Derek Glazberg's thing.
- [60:13]
C
Well, I look forward to seeing you tonight.
- [60:15]
B
I look forward to seeing you too, Derek. Thanks for Being here and for always making me feel like shit.
- [60:21]
C
It is my pleasure. Happy to be here. Easy to work with. I'm looking forward to seeing you tonight. And tomorrow night. Two days in a row.
- [60:27]
B
Same, Same. And then we won't have to see each other for many months.
- [60:32]
C
Oh, because. I don't know. Am I spoiling the surprise? Have you told your listeners that you're going to be living in Paris for the next four months?
- [60:40]
B
I have mentioned it.
- [60:43]
C
Why don't you solicit some activities from your listeners? What should Lauren and her child and her husband do for the next four months while they're here? Luxembourg Gardens. What's a good place for kids?
- [60:55]
B
We're very busy.
- [60:56]
C
Let her know.
- [60:56]
B
I'll see you in like an hour. Thank you for being here.
- [61:00]
C
Don't you put like you. Don't you put your whole phone number and your email in the newsletter?
- [61:04]
B
Yes.
- [61:05]
C
What's your number, Lauren say? Give it to the people.
- [61:07]
B
Get scoops. Okay. Well, I'll see you in an hour.
- [61:11]
C
Tell her what to do when she's here. We'll see you soon. Thanks for having me, Lauren.
- [61:15]
B
Bye, Derek. Fashion People is a presentation of Odyssey in partnership with Puck. This show was produced and edited by Molly Nugent. Special thanks to our executive producers, Puck co founder John Kelly, executive editor Ben Landy, and director of editorial operations, Gabby Grossman. Spring just slid into your DMs. Grab that boho look for that rooftop dinner, those sandals that can keep up with you. And hang some string lights to give your patio a glow up. Spring's calling, Ross, Work your magic.