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Jessica Matlin
All right, listen. If you listen to this podcast or really are just a podcast listener in general, I know that you love to learn, you love to expand your world and just get in there. I am the same way. And Masterclass has been heaven sent because it has exposed me to an entire universe of people who I would never get to meet in real life. For example, right now I'm hanging out with a bunch of CIA officers. Do you think I know them in real life? I don't. I wish I did. The art of Intelligence. Masterclass has completely inspired me. They've taught me skills that have been kept secret until now that have been applicable in every area of my life. And like you guys know, I'm not a CIA agent.
Jen Sullivan
I think we know that. That class is really cool. And Masterclass has so many options. It's the only streaming platform where you can learn and grow with more than 200 plus of the world's best instructors for just $10 a month. An annual membership with Masterclass gets you UNL access to every instructor. And you can access Masterclass on your phone, computer, smart tv, or even in audio mode. Make it like a podcast.
Jessica Matlin
Right now, our listeners get an additional 15% off of any membership@masterclass.com fatmascara that's 15% off@masterclass.com fat mascara masterclass.com fat mascara it is that time of the year. I really cherish the quiet time after the holidays. And I really use it to get my life in order.
Jen Sullivan
Order.
Jessica Matlin
I was just going through my closet, taking stock of what I need, and I know that Quince has all of the best closet essentials at a sharp price point at a quality that cannot be beat.
Jen Sullivan
Oh, my gosh. All of my best staples come from Quints, and I do not have a problem buying more quints this year because it is so affordable. Okay, here's what everybody needs in their closet in my opinion. Oversized cotton cardigan sweaters. They're washable silk skirts. And we love these. Jess and I love these. The organic stretch corduroy. She likes the cropped wide. I like the straight leg. But they're just so gorgeous and comfortable. Whatever you're looking for. All Quint's Items are priced 50 to 80% less than similar brands. And they're able to do that by partnering directly with top factories and cutting out the cost of the middleman, passing the savings on to you.
Jessica Matlin
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Jen Sullivan
Hi everybody. Welcome to Fat Mascara. I'm Jen Sullivan. My co host who you know, Jessica Matlin will be here just momentarily. Is it still January, the longest month? I think it is. But we have a great episode for you today. Sorry if my voice is a little bit messed up. Apparently I'm not taking the vocal zone lozenges I told you all about last week. But this is Fat Mascara. Did I say that? Hi, welcome. It's a podcast about beauty culture. We love, love, love when you throw us some reviews. Couple stars over on Apple or you can comment on individual episodes or the show in general on Spotify. We love that. In fact, that's where I've been engaging with a lot of you lately, replying back to your comments and things. So I love to read those at the beginning of the show. I have one. This is just the most fat mascara comment I think we've ever gotten. I love it dearly. This is from someone called Nora from Jersey. She said, ari, shower efficiency in phones. I take my phone in the shower. That's where I listen to you guys. Listen, I have six kids, a husband, animals and an intense job. I have all the life hacks. And then we got the smiley face. I did not know this was a thing. As you know, it came up when we were talking about cleansing makeup brushes and one of our listeners does it in the shower multitasking with the shampoo, which I have now tried. And it is possible to keep the ferrule and the handle outside of the shower stream if you sort of leave it on the side of the shower. You have to be very careful about it. But I just love this listener. I feel like she is all of us. And now I'm thinking there's probably other people out there that listen to us in the shower. So if that's what's happening to you right now, I hope you're enjoying your cleanse. I hope the conditioning is going well. Maybe a nice exfoliation. Enjoy it because what you're about to have is an amazing, inspiring episode. We have the one and only Laura Mercier here. She's the woman who's like the fairy godmother to all of the complexion foundation, concealer type makeup products that are in your makeup bag today. The legend behind it all, oil free tinted moisturizer. Ring a bell? Secret camouflage. That's her. So if you're not familiar. And in fact, I. I learned this recently from someone a bit younger than me, but she did not know Laura Mercier was a person. I think that happens a lot when people have eponymous makeup lines. But she is indeed. She's a celebrity makeup artist. She started her line in 1996. So you'll hear about her early career. We got some behind the scenes intel about her work with Steven Meisel. We talked about her longtime client, Madonna. It was a great interview. We spoke with her originally in the spring of 2023. We thought it was absolutely deserving of being in the best of FM canon, which is what you're listening to. Those are some of our best interviews ever. So let's head into the virtual studio where Jess will join us with Laura Mercier. Laura Mercier, welcome to Fat Mascara. Hi, how are you?
Laura Mercier
Hi. I'm very well, thank you. Thank you for having me.
Jessica Matlin
Thank you for coming.
Jen Sullivan
This is major, so major. Your career is legendary. You're an icon and we want to talk about it a little bit. So, you know, we do our research here at Fat Mascara. I know you went from being a 17 year old student at art school in Paris and then less than 10 years later, you're launching American Elle in New York City, doing test shoots, finding the models. How did that happen? It seems quick to me. Was it, did it feel quick to you, take us through your career path?
Laura Mercier
Yeah, it was quicker than that, actually. I left Paris. I was 24 years old with the team of Elle magazine when they wanted to launch Elle magazine in America. The American Ellen. So that's when I first came to New York and got to feel the energy and the city and thinking, hey, I would love to spend some time in New York. So once I came once, twice with Elle magazine, I found an agent and was done. And basically I've been living for 38 years in New York City.
Jen Sullivan
But you were. So at 24, you were already an established makeup artist.
Laura Mercier
I was a young makeup artist. I was working a lot for Elle and Marie Claire at the time because they're very sectaire in France. You know, they have their team. So those who are working for Marie Claire don't work for Elle magazine and vice versa. So. But I happened to work a little bit for Marie Claire as well. I was an Elle girl first, to be honest, and it was a great learning experience. But yes, I was an established makeup artist, but of course, still tons to learn. So I was happy to really make my marks in another country.
Jen Sullivan
Yeah. And I think of you as a new York City girl. I was just reading this New York magazine story about the it girls of the 80s and 90s and I was looking at some of the women and I was like, Lara was probably there doing their makeup. Then like the late 80s, early 90s, what was the scene like? Were you going out to clubs, having fun with all the models?
Laura Mercier
Oh my God, you would be so bored with me because I actually I was the non conformist girl working in fashion. Meaning the only thing that I was obsessed with was my job and make sure that I felt good and happy and energetic to do my job. So not going out, not taking drugs, not smoking, not drinking. I mean literally. So I gave my entire life into makeup from day one. This is the type of girl I was. The way I was brought up, I was not a go out girl, first of all, was not my thing, never been. So I preferred go back to my home apartment and see a good movie or read a good book. So boring. But I was very content with that. And I could arrive, I was always on time at the job when everybody else didn't care and arrived at just any time and be completely tired and exhausted because they had spent the night out. I was always fresh and up and running. That was me. And I really built my career that way all the time.
Jessica Matlin
It served you, didn't it? I'm sorry, I said it served you, didn't it? It worked to your advantage.
Laura Mercier
I guess so. I mean it's not a guarantee because you're a boring girl. You're going to get a great career for sure. But one thing is that my ethic.
Jessica Matlin
If only.
Laura Mercier
My ethic of working was really I'm asked a performance. I'm asked to do something, I'm gonna do the best I can and I'm gonna give my all. So it's always been my principle in life, always in everything I did, no matter what. And I had fun. I had fun in the studio. I mean I remember with Steven Meisel. The 10 years with Steven Meisel were, oh my God, exhausting. But the best learning experience.
Jessica Matlin
Why was it exhausting?
Laura Mercier
Because Steven, if he doesn't have his picture, you hear there at 1:30 in the morning, still looking at Polaroid, basically. And you got to stay until the picture is really good. But the creative energy is absolutely amazing.
Jessica Matlin
Since we are an audio podcast and I don't know if everyone listening can picture a Steven Meisel, just kind of paint the picture for us. Cause this is very romantic. This is very romantic to me. Like I just like I'm Loving this. I'm loving talking to you. I'm loving this whole moment that you're painting. Give us, like, one of your favorite Steven Meisel shoots that had you up till like one in the morning.
Laura Mercier
It would be the Vogue, obviously, at the time we were doing the covers for Vogue. So it would be the content inside where a fashion spread would have to be done the right way, the way Stephen had it in mind. And everybody was. Everybody's always on the creative bridge where everybody must give an idea and must participate so Stephen can have his team, can trust his team to do the job. And we had some challenging moment. Obviously, we had good laugh. I mean, like, he's a funny guy. He's so smart. He's such a genius person. So hardworking, though. So you know when you enter the studio, but you don't know when you actually leave the studio at the same time. You are embarking on the same boat of creativity. So you find yourself not waiting on the side like, okay, let's wait until he knows exactly what he wants to do. It's like, you think, you search, you try. I mean, sometimes you try several thing and we change. And it's just a creative pot. It's like, it's just creative pot of genius. I mean, this photographer in particular, I have always dreamt of working with Steven Meisel since an early age in my career. And you can't come in the studio of Steven Meisel if he doesn't choose you. I mean, it doesn't happen like that. You don't send the book and, okay, so let's take this makeup artist. He chooses you, and then it's a family thing. If he trusts you, if he trusts you, if he likes you, you on board. But you better perform. It's not about you. It's about sharing the creativity and at the same time, learning. Because he's a great teacher. I mean, he's like, it's amazing. It's difficult to describe. It's really a moment of pure creative fashion.
Jen Sullivan
This is why you didn't go. Yeah. You couldn't be coming in hungover to the Steven Meisel shoot.
Jessica Matlin
No. And it's interesting. You're not just waiting for him to be like. I'm thinking like a. And I'm not saying there's nothing wrong with a nude face, but it's not. You're waiting. You're not waiting for direction or just giving your one idea and going with it.
Laura Mercier
I'm gonna tell you something. He actually taught me how to work for Black and White. Picture. Because the makeup is very different when you work for black and white. Picture. The technique is different. Sometimes he would come in the makeup room, and, I mean, the early years I was with him, he would take the. He's a great artist as well. And he would take the pencil and he would draw an eyebrows. It would say, okay, this is something I love. You know, do it stronger. I mean, what do we do with our eyebrows? Look at that. I mean, could we go there? And he's with you. He's literally with you creating, and he shows you. He knows about makeup, he knows about technique, he knows about hair, he knows about clothes. He knows about everything. He lives and breathes fashion. This person is a true fashion genius. The best I've ever seen.
Jen Sullivan
Laura. He would pick up your tools and do the makeup. Sometimes a little bit.
Laura Mercier
Yeah, Just show me, like, how he wants the brow. And we said, okay, I get it.
Jen Sullivan
And you'd perfect it.
Laura Mercier
Yeah. No, he would do it perfectly. I mean, this man could have been a makeup artist, literally. Actually, he went to art school himself. I mean, he is very talented. Still. We never see him. He's very shy. He's very private. You don't see him, but, boy, he is a power of genius in the fashion industry. Yeah.
Jen Sullivan
And you and that team created some amazing images then. I know you were working so much with the models and everything, but you sort of. Your career then shifted. You started doing, like, Madonna, Julia Roberts, Sarah Jessica Parker, a lot of these celebrities. Did that come from your fashion work or was it part of your fashion work?
Laura Mercier
Well, actually, Stephen is the one who told Madonna about me. And I said, stephen, never. It won't happen.
Jen Sullivan
Why?
Laura Mercier
Because I was scared. I was shy. I was not an outgoing person. I had to have people who trusted me. I had to have a comfortable environment to be myself. I was not like, oh, I want to do that star, and then I'm going to become famous. And I didn't want to become famous at all. I wanted to be quiet in my corner, be the best I could at doing what I wanted. But please don't look at me. Don't ask me, no, no, no, I'm not doing this star. Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. I heard she's difficult. That was me. So when she said, you are doing Madonna, I said, no, Stephen, I'm not doing Madonna. I said, you are doing Madonna. It went on and on like that until I said, okay, Laura, if you want to pass over this fear, you're going to have to confront your fear, and it's okay. It's not life and death if she hates you. If she rejects you, then be it. So I went and I met with her, and from that moment, I really fell in love with her because of her creative inspiration, because of her energy. She's very smart. I mean, she's very provocative in the interview because she doesn't let a lot of who she is inside, but she's a super smart woman and very creative.
Jessica Matlin
Because she doesn't let a lot of herself. Of who she is inside show.
Laura Mercier
Yeah, exactly. Yeah. She's very protective of herself and her world, even though she seems absolutely like an exhibitionist. I mean, she has both sides in her creativity, coming from her education, coming from what she wanted. Everything that she wanted to do as a creative person when she was young. Whatever she became is her own trajectoire.
Jessica Matlin
What did you just say?
Jen Sullivan
Trajectory.
Laura Mercier
Trajectory. Sorry. Thank you, Jenna. I went back to France.
Jen Sullivan
I'll provide translation. It's fine.
Jessica Matlin
Jen's doing her. What is our sponsor again?
Jen Sullivan
Babbel. I have a language learning app. It's really working. That's good.
Jessica Matlin
But what does it mean, a character?
Jen Sullivan
No trajectory of her.
Jessica Matlin
Trajectory. That's right.
Laura Mercier
In the intimacy when you know the real woman. I mean, I adored her. I mean, really, I had no ever any issue with her whatsoever. It's been like eight years of perfect coordination. Communication, very demanding. It was perfect for me. One day, I arrived five minutes late. We were in London, and everybody, all the team was sitting in the corridor waiting for me. Five minutes late. I have never been late in my life. And she looked at me and she said, that's the last time. And I looked at her, I said, sure, it's the last time. Promise. And from that point on, it said it all. I mean, you had to be. But the beauty of her was the respect she has for the creative people around her. Saying hello to all, the technician, being super pro, super pro is what I loved also doing with her. Not only creative, but very respectful. So she would say, okay, Laura, how long are you gonna do? How long do you need for the makeup? I mean, of course, we would have seen what kind of makeup. Everything would have been organized in advance. And I would say, okay, I need an hour and a half. And you better say the right thing, because it's an hour and a half and not an hour and a 45 minutes. But just because everything is organized around her. Of course, at that point. But she knew I wanted to be quiet. I'm not like the bubbly makeup artist, you know, talking about everything as I'm doing my thing, it's like I like to be with a quiet around and very Zen and concentration on doing it perfectly and staying on time. So everybody out. We close the makeup room. She's in the chair, she doesn't talk, and she gives me her face for an hour and a half entirely with no moving around whatsoever. That was absolutely brilliant. But this is the way she works. I like that way of working. I've worked with other celebrity, which is a zoo. It's a complete zoo. You work days and nights. You don't know when you're going to be finishing. You're exhausted. You have the worst condition of working, because that's the way it is. And I prefer to. The modern house way is the way that I prefer. Obviously, I could write a book, but, you know, I have to wait the old dead, because I, you know, otherwise I have to. Confidentially, there are things that I can't say.
Jessica Matlin
So I mean, when I'm sure. I mean, we would all be, like, dying for your book. When did you parlay your experience into making a product line?
Laura Mercier
There was another love that I had beside the artistry was the making of the product. That was an aspect of the job that I was looking for. I was cooking a little bit, making my own recipe, putting some yellow in my foundation, mixing things. I mean, like, you know, doing like the little mad scientist at home. You know, it's a dream of every makeup artist to have their own liner, of course, and make your own color. I don't think I was unique that way, so that part interested me as well. Just not I'm going in studio. And I guess also I was tired of traveling, which I little. I knew that I would travel even more with my brand, but I thought I would be. I saw myself in the lab creating product. I mean, this is the vision that I had, which was all wrong, of course, because I did go there. But I traveled even more than I used to, touring the world to show the brand, literally. But it was all an incredible experience, for sure. I think I was ready to do something different.
Jessica Matlin
You were just ready for a change.
Laura Mercier
In your life, for change, and going into that part of the industry, the color, which is my first learning.
Jessica Matlin
But you know what's interesting? I just was thinking about this now, like, when you came out with your line, I'm thinking about the other lines that were out there. You were one of the first big makeup artist brands. There were other makeup artist brands at the time, too.
Jen Sullivan
Yeah, this was 1996.
Laura Mercier
1996. You had Francois. Francois Nars had already come out with his brand as well, but there.
Jessica Matlin
But it wasn't what it is now. That's my larger point. It wasn't like now I feel like a makeup artist is successful for five years. They have a big Instagram following. And the natural follow up question, probably from their agent or their followers, is when are you coming out the line? It's a natural.
Laura Mercier
Yes, it's true. Yeah.
Jessica Matlin
I'm not, I'm not gonna attempt to say the word part of their trajectory, but I don't think it was very expected. I think it was, I don't know, it's kind of unusual. It was, it filled a gap in the market, had a very specific point of view. You had a one. I don't know if it was your intention to have a hero product, but if you could strip down. What is Laura Mercier cosmetics about? You have a lot of different products now, but you were very clear about complexion. You had the secret camouflage and the tinted moisturizer. I mean, Jen and I probably like, how many times did we write about the tinted moisturizer? How many times do we put that in our stories, Jen?
Jen Sullivan
Yeah, well, also for a long time you couldn't get products like that from any other line. What gave you the inspiration to do those two products?
Laura Mercier
The camouflage is really basically the reason to be for the line. That's what I was using in my makeup case. That was the basic of my technique. I was kind of known for makeup. No makeup, I mean, meaning perfecting the skin to the point it doesn't look like makeup, but it looks perfect. So it just gave me the idea that we couldn't find something like that on the market. All you had to hide. A pimple or scar or redness was considered.
Jessica Matlin
That was the idea for the line.
Laura Mercier
That was the idea for the line. So when my partner approached me, I said, okay, at that point in my career, I want to do it my way. So if you don't want to do it my way, I'm not interested. So I want to go to the lab and I have hero product that I want to bring out. It's going to be challenging because it's more makeup artistry. So we're going to need to educate women. It's going to need to be demonstrated. It's not something that you pick up on the counter and you go, but okay. She said, okay. We went for it. I went to the lab literally doing the foundation. I mean, we came out with 150 product the first year in 18 months. Exactly. And camouflage was part of that. And if I knew at the time how challenging it's been to demonstrate the camouflage. But at the same time, the reward today is that our client learned, they were willing to learn, and they did. And we have the most beautiful story around that camouflage. It would take too much time to tell the stories, but it really shows that there was a true interest for something that didn't exist and that responded to some needs. Women who had issues on their skin were able to actually camouflage these issues without putting a kilo of foundation trying to hide. And that just by itself made their life different and new. And so the witnessing part of that success was unbelievable. People wrote letters, people came back to the store and said, oh, my God. I mean, it was really. Some people cried because they looked at themselves, they had a burn on their face. And they said, I can go out and not be ashamed because. Or self conscious about it. You saved my life. I mean, so many stories. So this to me confirmed that I was doing this brand for a reason, which became the first reason, in a way, that I was going to make women happy and confident. Because I know what it is not to have confidence in ourselves. And that's a handicap for life. If all of a sudden, with any tool, with sport, with diet, with anything, you can get more confidence in your life, you're going to go further, you're going to be able to evaluate in a different way. So to me, makeup is not futile. It's something that is absolutely part of the well being for a woman. And I'm thinking the same way today, even more so. So that brand was not just like a little fashion moment has never been for me. It had a more profound goal, which I think today, seeing the reputation and what people think of it, I'm like, wow, surprised myself.
Jessica Matlin
It is that time of the year. I really cherish the quiet time after the holidays. And I really use it to get my life in order. I was just going through my closet, taking stock of what I need, and I know that Quince has all of the best closet essentials at a sharp price point at a quality that cannot be beat.
Jen Sullivan
Oh, my gosh. All of my best staples come from quints. And I do not have a problem buying more quints this year because it is so affordable. Okay, here's what everybody needs in their closet, in my opinion. Oversized cotton cardigan sweaters. They're washable silk skirts. And we love these. Jess and I love these. The organic stretch corduroy. She likes the cropped Wide. I like the straight leg, but they're just so gorgeous and comfortable. Whatever you're looking for. All Quince Items are priced 50 to 80% less than similar brands. And they're able to do that by partnering directly with top factories and cutting out the cost of the middleman, passing the savings on to you.
Jessica Matlin
Treat yourself this winter without the luxury price tag. Go to Quince.com FatMascara for 365 day returns plus free shipping on your order. That's Quince.com FatMascarA to get free shipping and 365 day returns. Quince.com FatMascARA.
Jen Sullivan
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Jen Sullivan
I know it smells great and it works. Love it. For a limited time only, our listeners get 20% off your entire order when you use the code mascara@laundry sauce.com that's 20% off your order. @laundry sauce.com with the promo code Mascara, it's time to get saucy. You said you were shy though, and here's your name everywhere on all these products. Do you ever meet people who are like, oh, you're a real person.
Laura Mercier
Oh my God, it happens. I mean, it's very unpretentiously. I'm certainly not a big star, by all means, but believe it or not, it happens so quite often that I'm in a store purchasing something and when they see the name, they said, oh, funny, you have this cosmetic company that I'm saying, mm. And say, it's not you, right, it's you. You mean you, you, the Laura Mercier. I mean it's Just funny. It happened in the plane with the stewardess. I mean, like, it happens usually. Wherever they see my name, they just question they heard it, so they wander.
Jessica Matlin
Do you think that part of that is because you don't put yourself out there?
Laura Mercier
Oh, I don't do it on purpose. I'm not cultivating the secret thing as a strategy. I truly had a handicap in my life that I didn't want to show myself. So working in studio, trying to make something of myself, using my talent, if I had a little talent in my hand, then I was going to try to see what I could do as long as people would not look at me and judge just what I did.
Jessica Matlin
This is so crazy because, like, you're. She's like, I feel like I'm a cheerleader, but I'm like, you're the whole package, Laura. Like, she's talented, she's beautiful. She is obviously smart in business. You're, like, lovely to be around, but what do you mean? Like, tell me more about this handicap. Cause I think this is very relatable.
Laura Mercier
That is very sweet of you, but I've learned. I've learned.
Jessica Matlin
She's like, well, I don't care. She's like, also, I know, but, yeah, keep going.
Laura Mercier
No, I've learned. I've learned. I've done my homework. I was brought up this way. The education was basically, you don't pay compliment. There is no compliments. Like, you come back from school and you say, oh, I got a B. And she said, yeah, well, why didn't you get an A? And everything is like that. I mean, you're too fat, you don't dress well. You don't know how to do your hair. I mean, it's like constant judgment and never building confidence. And the three girls, my two sister and I, were brought the same way. We're very different, but we were all handicapped in one way or another because we were not given confidence. And that stayed with me in a way that I thought, how unfortunate. This is the first thing you have to give to a kid. No matter how your kid is, if you don't say to your kid you love him or her and she or he is beautiful, and whatever she or he does, well, we should acknowledge, then you are naked with no tool to take life in your own hand, you going to have a gap. So I finally decided to move to the States because I thought, I'm going to stay away from my family. I have to be born again. I have to build. Laura, first of all, I changed my name. They changed it at this esthetician school where I learned aesthetic, the Carita School, they changed my name. They gave me Laura. So Michelle was gone, so my birth name was gone, and I could be a different person. So I came to America as a Laura. And I was by myself, living in a little tiny studio, a shitty studio with cockroaches everywhere and mice. I mean, literally having my futon on the floor in the middle of the studio because I thought the mice are going to go all around. They're not going to pass in my hair. I mean, this is like, I'm just laughing today, but this is great experience at the same time. But I was going to build my life from scratch. And I had to do that by myself because no one could do it for me. So it was hard work. It was really starting over, doing catalogs and not having an apartment, living with someone, sharing collocation because you don't have enough money to do that. Then people pay you. When they think about it, sometimes they don't pay you at all. You go through agency, you go take your money and don't give you the money. You go through everything that's possible and you learn and you learn the hard way, which today my philosophy is, if you don't get through harsh experience, you don't grow. Okay, you know what we say? What? This stuff make you grow even better. And that's true. So it was not easy. It was fabulous because I did it. And all of a sudden it was not about me being ugly and fat and stupid and not able to do anything. It was about me being someone living, breathing, having two hands, two legs, a head, and the little talent that I had. I was going to try to experiment and become a better person the best I could. I never dreamt of being famous, never dreamt of having money, never dreamt of all that. And it just happened.
Jen Sullivan
It sounds like you've been through such a big evolution, hard one that you worked on. Are there still things where you feel out of your comfort zone or feel little Michelle coming back, whispering in your ear?
Laura Mercier
When I went back to France, I became the little Michel again. I went back to France four years ago, actually, when Covid happened, of course, everybody was closing offices. And then I was in France when the confinement, everybody was confined. We couldn't travel anymore. And then I said, okay, this is it. I have to take a decision. I'm back in France. I'm an old cookie now. I'm going to. I'm on the edge of retirement. Basically, I have to choose my country. It's enough. New York is over for me and the line had been just bought out. I didn't know what I could expect, so I took the decision. And then here I am, back with my family. I lost my mom three weeks ago, and that's okay. She was 91 years old. And you think, okay, dad is gone, Mommy's gone, and my older sister's gone. So I'm left with one sister and my nephew and nieces. This is my family now. And then I still don't feel at home. For some reason, the little Michel, the little demons came back because there is a lot of jealousy around me. Like I've become somebody. And who am I? Like, they know Michelle. They don't really know Laura. I was away for 38 years. I was not around for 38 years. And so that creates a big uncomfort within my family. I'm having a little bit of a tough time over there. But hey, I'll work that out. It's gonna be fine.
Jen Sullivan
What do you use to help you when you have moments like that? Any practice or.
Laura Mercier
I use my American side.
Jen Sullivan
Ah, what does she do?
Laura Mercier
I'm very proud to say that I am Franco American. I am a citizen of America and happy to be in the sense that you know, you know it better than other people. It's about positivity, hard work, convincing yourself that of course you can do it. Sure. And the fact that I've worked on myself for so long, through therapy, through meditation, through Buddhism, learning, through metaphysics, I see the world now with a different eye. It's not about me and complaining about me anymore. Who cares? Me, Fat me, ugly me. Who cares about you? Put your ego on the side and look at how beautiful life is and look at the positive side.
Jessica Matlin
When did you get into Buddhism?
Laura Mercier
I would say about 10 years ago.
Jessica Matlin
But did somebody open your eyes to it?
Laura Mercier
I was always interested in it. Always reading metaphysical book, always into metaphysics. Why are we here? I mean, what's the purpose here? I mean, basically I want to understand. And through all this learning experience, you know, I met. I went to real teaching. I met a Buddhist nun who actually created her own temple. And I've learned and read and talked and it was like a discovery by itself of looking at life a different way. I'm actually finishing Tina Turner's book. She wrote about Buddhism saving her. And it's very interesting. Obviously it's. Yes, sure, it makes you look at life differently. So it's not about the religion, it's not about a sect. This is not my thing. So I'm not into the rituals. We'll say it's the philosophy. I love that philosophy. You here for a purpose and then you go on to many lives after that. And death is just a passage which I love.
Jen Sullivan
So what would you say then? Your purpose in this life has been so far and then we're gonna have to ask you about beauty products afterwards.
Jessica Matlin
I'm sorry, I don't want to. The purpose of life and then.
Jen Sullivan
No. What would you say your purpose is?
Laura Mercier
Everybody has a purpose. No matter what. There is a purpose for everyone. Even if you don't see it, it's there. Learning how to love myself and be grateful that I have the luck of being a human being on this planet and have this life which is already quite wonderful. Even though you go through tough time, this is what you're supposed to do in order to learn. If you don't go through tough tests and bad moments, you're never going to learn anything. If you spoil all your life. And you see it in spoiled people who are more lucky than some others, they don't really see life in the right way. Their vision is not right, in fact. So the more you suffer, the better you become and you have to happy about it.
Jessica Matlin
Yeah, well, we don't want you to suffer too much. We don't want anyone to suffer too much. Yeah, yeah. So we do have to ask you some beauty questions because I'm sure there are people who are dying to hear your take on it, given that you're just an icon. Tell us about. The industry has sped up so much more and you know, products and trends are going so quickly. I mean, you've seen so much like, what is your take on the industry right now? Is there anything that excites you or do you kind of feel like bored by it?
Laura Mercier
It's overwhelming. It's oversaturated for sure. I mean, and this social media thing has very good side and very bad side. As we all know, women are confused out there. I can tell you that if it's to have a brand for a moment, to me it makes no sense. If a brand has a purpose, that brand will remain. And I just look at it this way, who cares? If you want to try, sure, do it. And there are people that are talented and have great ideas, actually. Really? And you wish they would stay on and they would have the opportunity to stay longer. So I have no criticism for that. I'm just thinking of the client out there. What is she going to understand with all this after that? It's a choice of everyone. I think we still here because we still carry the same message. If you're consistent in what you believe in and if you think you can still continue to bring something to the world out there in terms of cosmetic, well, and if you try to do it very well and do it your best, then you'll have longevity.
Jessica Matlin
Foreign Listen. If you listen to this podcast or really are just a podcast listener in general, I know that you love to learn, you love to expand your world and just get in there. I am the same way. And Masterclass has been heaven sent because it has exposed me to an entire universe of people who I would never get to meet in real life. For example, right now I'm hanging out with a bunch of CIA officers. Do you think I know them in real life? I don't. I wish I did. The art of Intelligence Masterclass has completely inspired me. They've taught me skills that have been kept secret until now that have been applicable in every area of my life. And like, like, you guys know I'm not a CIA agent.
Jen Sullivan
I think we know that. That class is really cool. And Masterclass has so many options. It's the only streaming platform where you can learn and grow with more than 200 plus of the world's best instructors for just $10 a month, an annual membership with Masterclass gets you unlimited access to every instructor. And you can access Masterclass on your phone, computer, smart tv, or even in audio mode. Make it like a podcast.
Jessica Matlin
Right now, our listeners get an additional 5015 off of any membership@masterclass.com FatMascara that's 15 off@masterclass.com FatMASCARA masterclass.com FatMascara I just thought of this question on the fly. This is not something that Jen and I discussed. Is there a makeup artist brand besides your own that you admire?
Laura Mercier
What I have loved in makeup artist brand is when they brought their own personality. When Francois came out with his brand, it was him. I know him. His brand illustrated exactly who he is. Fashion, fashion, show colors. And I love that he represents really the makeup artist personality. If you look at Charlotte Tilbury, it's her. This is who she is. The time we had other.
Jessica Matlin
And what is that like? I mean, yeah, most people listen to.
Laura Mercier
The show, know, glitch, Glee and Glamour, you know, it's all about her, darling. Yes. And she's a sweetie. But this is who she is. And I like that. She's outgoing with what she believes in and she go for it. She goes for it. I like that instead of just creating a brand, just take a piece of the market and just sell a bunch of color. If you go with a reason to be, because this is you, I mean, go for it. And Kevin Aucoin, I mean, bless his heart, I used to admire him as a makeup artist, but he also had in his brand, particularly at the beginning product that represented what he did in his technique, and I like that.
Jen Sullivan
Which product are you referring to?
Laura Mercier
Oh, for example, he had, like, a superb creamy camouflage concealer, which I absolutely adored. He came out with a product that really served what it did as a makeup artist. And I like that. I like when there is a point of view.
Jen Sullivan
And what would they say is your point of view? What is Laura Mercier? If we ask Charlotte?
Laura Mercier
Oh, I don't know what she would say.
Jen Sullivan
What would you say?
Laura Mercier
The way I see mine, I think, yes, it's true that it's complexion. I've always been obsessed with complexion, but not just complexion. I mean, I love everything else. And I'm dying to show that we also about colors and other things. But yes, probably everybody is remembering Laura Mercier for camouflage and foundation and Tintin moisturizer and primer. Anything that touches the skin is definitely our forte.
Jessica Matlin
I would say, Laura, you mentioned all of the fabulous complexion products, but what we did not mention. You want to be known for that, and you are known for that. You were also a trend forecaster when it came to body and fragrance. Yes, the gourmand trend.
Jen Sullivan
We've been talking about pistachio, by the way, on the podcast. It came up as. This is a fragrance trend.
Laura Mercier
Wow.
Jen Sullivan
And like, how many years ago did you make a pistachio perfume?
Laura Mercier
Oh, my God.
Jessica Matlin
My parents lived in, like, three houses before that. Like, they've been.
Laura Mercier
Exactly. Well, don't forget. Not just pistachio tart, citron, creme brulee.
Jessica Matlin
Creme brulee.
Laura Mercier
Okay. We still have almond coconut. That has not gone. I mean, it was supposed to be pyjama sans. I mean, no one has ever understood the purpose of coming out with creme brulee? We were not supposed to go to work with creme brulee whatsoever. It was supposed to be cocooning a scent for home pajama scents. Oh, my God, I love that scent where your kids and your husband can bathe in it and you go to bed and it smell good. Like if you bake a vanilla cake, basically. But not going to work with creme brulee, which became like this crazy frenzy about everybody would smell creme Brulee. I was, like, horrified.
Jen Sullivan
It bothers you that we took. We really liked your gourmand idea. We took it to work. We took it to the streets.
Laura Mercier
I never thought it would be so popular that way. And I was, like, eager to move on to different things. Fresh and green and lemony and no one would let me do that. No, no, no, no, no. People love it. We've got to have.
Jessica Matlin
No one would let you.
Laura Mercier
They wouldn't let me have any other thing. And no. Bless them. I'm super happy that it was such a hit, but it was a surprise.
Jessica Matlin
Oh, my God. That's so funny. Sorry. I couldn't move on until we addressed this.
Jen Sullivan
What do you. Yeah, what do you wear?
Jessica Matlin
Which.
Jen Sullivan
Is there a fragrance that's.
Laura Mercier
Well, I have signature scent for fragrances now for body and bath. Finally, I did a Neroli, which I love. And, you know, we moved on from Gourmand, although we kept some. We have Amber Vanille. I love amber. I'm a big amber person. I love rose amber. Of course, in America, everybody hates rose. I love rose. But these are not commercial scents. But Amber Vanille is nice because it's soft and sensuous.
Jen Sullivan
Yeah, they're delicious.
Jessica Matlin
So funny.
Jen Sullivan
I love that.
Jessica Matlin
So funny. Thank you.
Jen Sullivan
Well, before I do this fat mascara five, one more. I just have to ask you about products. How about of your line, like, is there a signature lipstick or, like, the sleeper hit that's Lara's favorite that you just keep in the line for you?
Laura Mercier
For me, personally, I always have my shade done one way or another. So in our petal soft crayon for the lip, I have one that's called Laura, and that's my shade. That's it. It's a brown red.
Jessica Matlin
All right.
Jen Sullivan
Okay, you ready for this now, Jess, are you done?
Jessica Matlin
I'm ready for questions. Yes. I'm sorry. I'm done. I just had to talk to you all day.
Jen Sullivan
Yeah.
Laura Mercier
So funny.
Jen Sullivan
Okay, we'll give you a couple more questions. So what's. These are quicker ones. What's your proudest accomplishment, Laura, to have.
Laura Mercier
Become meaningful in life somehow?
Jen Sullivan
And I know you have such an art background, and I was thinking about art when I was preparing for this. What's a work of fine art that has moved you the most? Like, you saw this artwork and you had a deep experience with it.
Laura Mercier
I am very inspired by artwork, many type. I think I was stuck very much with the Impressionist. The impressionist. That's a period in the painting era that has inspired me very, very Much for many things.
Jen Sullivan
I could see that it comes out in your makeup work, too. I could totally see that. Okay. Whose makeup would you like to do that you haven't done yet? Whose face do you.
Laura Mercier
To be honest with you, I don't have a wish of doing anybody anymore. I'm just very proud of the career I had because I ended up by only doing who I loved to do because I could and I have. Very deep in my heart are special people that I have done a lot, like Julia Robert and Sarah Jessica Parker, who have been not only fabulous professional actresses and stars, but fabulous human beings. And in my work, that counts a lot. I mean, it's just not about doing the next cookie in town who's gonna be the big star for this or this reason is what kind of human being is she? And I was very spoiled to have been able and flattered and lucky to have worked with these women.
Jen Sullivan
Okay, this is an easy one. Maybe. What is your favorite dessert?
Laura Mercier
Oh, gosh, don't get me there. I should not have any ever, which.
Jen Sullivan
That's little Michelle talking. Shut her up. What does Laura. What does Laura want to eat?
Laura Mercier
Laura loves strawberry shortcake, apple tart. I have an entire list. We can talk later if you want.
Jen Sullivan
I. I mean, we've smelled your perfume, so I knew you had a sweet tooth.
Laura Mercier
Of course I do.
Jen Sullivan
But I wanted to see.
Laura Mercier
I do.
Jen Sullivan
Okay. And last question. What do you need for a good night's sleep? Like, what makes you sleep well and get your beauty sleep at the end of the day?
Laura Mercier
A bath is still my favorite ritual. A bath. It helps me unwind. A good meditation moment and quiet, nice music. A good book. I'm still very attached to my book and certainly not on the computer. I am a dinosaur.
Jessica Matlin
Just like everybody knows I'm a dinosaur.
Laura Mercier
I'm a dinosaur. And I don't know if I'm proud of it, but no matter what, there is nothing I can do. I am not a technology person. I'm so dumb. I'm so stupid. I hate it with a passion.
Jessica Matlin
Stop with these words. I don't like these. Do not use these words, Laura.
Laura Mercier
No, you're right.
Jessica Matlin
You're not a dinosaur. You're always relic.
Laura Mercier
Oh, I can be relevant, but in a very concrete way. Technology doesn't talk to me.
Jessica Matlin
You know what? I'm not big on it either.
Laura Mercier
Oh, you not. Look at me. Look at you.
Jessica Matlin
No, not that big on it.
Jen Sullivan
Look at you with a podcast. Jess.
Laura Mercier
That is funny.
Jen Sullivan
We figured it out.
Jessica Matlin
Every evil, it's a necessary evil.
Laura Mercier
It is a necessary evil and I feel lucky I don't have to do it.
Jen Sullivan
Yeah, we're so grateful that you chose to do a little technology today to be here with us. Thank you so much for such a wonderful interview.
Laura Mercier
I heard of you and the podcast and certainly very flattered that you have me.
Jessica Matlin
Oh my God, you're. Thank you so much. This is awesome.
Laura Mercier
I know. I love what you do. It's so smart.
Jessica Matlin
We hope you enjoyed the show.
Jen Sullivan
It's your reviews and feedback that help us make the podcast even better. Head over to itunes to rate and review us or email your thoughts to infoatmascara.com we also want to answer your.
Jessica Matlin
Repeat question and hear what products you love, to share a Razoon product review or to ask a beauty question. Email us at infoatmascara.
Jen Sullivan
If you send it as a voice memo file, we can even share your voice on the podcast. You can also do that by leaving us a voice message. Our phone number in the United States is 646-481-8182.
Jessica Matlin
Thanks so much for listening.
Podcast Summary: Fat Mascara - Best of FM: Makeup Artist Laura Mercier
Episode Details:
In this standout episode of Fat Mascara, hosts Jennifer Sullivan and Jessica Matlin welcome the iconic Laura Mercier, renowned for her "makeup that looks like nothing is there" philosophy. Laura shares insights into her illustrious career, her transition from Paris to New York, and the creation of her beloved cosmetic line.
Laura Mercier begins by recounting her journey from being a 17-year-old art student in Paris to joining the Elle magazine team in America at 24. “I left Paris with the team of Elle magazine when they wanted to launch Elle magazine in America,” Laura explains ([05:34]). This move marked the beginning of her 38-year residency in New York City, where she rapidly established herself as a talented makeup artist.
A significant portion of Laura's early success is attributed to her decade-long collaboration with famed photographer Steven Meisel. She describes the intense yet rewarding experience: “The 10 years with Steven Meisel were, oh my God, exhausting. But the best learning experience” ([09:38]). Laura highlights the demanding schedules, often working late into the night to achieve the perfect shot, and the deep creative synergy she shared with Meisel. “He's a great teacher. I mean, he's like, it's amazing. It's difficult to describe. It's really a moment of pure creative fashion” ([09:56]).
Laura discusses how her collaboration with Steven Meisel led to opportunities with high-profile clients like Madonna. Initially hesitant, Laura overcame her shyness to work with the pop icon, a decision that significantly boosted her reputation. “From that moment, I really fell in love with her because of her creative inspiration, because of her energy” ([15:11]). This transition allowed Laura to work with other celebrities such as Julia Roberts and Sarah Jessica Parker, further cementing her status in the beauty industry.
Driven by her passion for product creation, Laura ventured into the cosmetic business in 1996, launching her own line inspired by her desire for impeccable complexion products. “The camouflage is really basically the reason to be for the line. That's what I was using in my makeup case” ([21:58]). She emphasizes the brand’s mission to empower women through makeup, enabling them to feel confident without heavy, cakey products. Laura highlights the initial challenges of educating consumers about innovative products like the Secret Camouflage ([22:25]), which eventually became a beloved staple.
Laura delves into her brand’s philosophy, focusing on complexion-enhancing products that offer a natural, flawless look. She reflects on the enduring popularity of products like the Tinted Moisturizer and Secret Camouflage, which addressed specific consumer needs for lightweight coverage. “If a brand has a purpose, that brand will remain,” Laura asserts ([39:23]). She also touches upon the evolution of her product line, including her ventures into fragrances and bath products, while maintaining the core values of quality and simplicity.
Laura opens up about her personal journey, including challenges faced while re-establishing connections with her family after moving back to France. She shares her insights on overcoming insecurities and building self-confidence, influenced by her studies in Buddhism and metaphysics. “Learning how to love myself and be grateful that I have the luck of being a human being on this planet” ([38:00]). Laura emphasizes the importance of resilience and personal growth, both in her professional and personal life.
Reflecting on the modern beauty landscape, Laura expresses mixed feelings about the rapid pace of trends and the oversaturation of the market. “It's overwhelming. It's oversaturated for sure,” she notes ([39:23]). However, she remains optimistic about brands that stay true to their mission and maintain consistency. Laura encourages emerging beauty professionals to focus on their unique purpose to achieve longevity in the industry.
The episode concludes with light-hearted personal questions, revealing Laura's favorite desserts and her nightly rituals for relaxation. She humorously admits her aversion to technology, stating, “I'm a dinosaur” ([50:36]). Despite this, Laura appreciates the role of technology in connecting with her audience through platforms like the Fat Mascara podcast.
This episode of Fat Mascara offers an in-depth look into Laura Mercier's remarkable journey in the beauty industry. From her disciplined beginnings in Paris to becoming a household name in cosmetics, Laura's story is one of passion, resilience, and unwavering commitment to empowering women through makeup. Her insights provide valuable lessons for both beauty enthusiasts and professionals alike.