
The American cotton feed sack is the stuff of legend. From the 1850s onwards it was skilfully repurposed by women across America into all kinds of garments and household goods. By the late 1930s when it became highly patterned, it's estimated...
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Joe Andrews
The cotton feed sack is a humble thing. I have one given to me by a listener. It dates from the middle of the 20th century and it's an oblong of soft, plain weave fabric with a small blue and brown print. It's lock stitched up one side and at the bottom so that it can be opened out and used as a single piece. It's extraordinary to think that this simple piece of fabric, fabric has had such an impact on so many people around the world.
Lindsay Kuhl McCrae
Feet sacks embody an important facet of the American dream, where people lift themselves up by their bootstraps and make do and mend and use and reuse and have a sense of thriftiness in them.
Rose Sinclair
In the Caribbean, its flower is like an all consuming material that's used for cakes, for bakes, for cocoa, breads or whatever. It's the dough for your patties. And so the fabric that then results from it is also a precious piece of fabric. You're not going to chuck it, throw it away, or throw it in the bin.
Annelien van Kempen
The flour sacks with the logos were so exotic for the Belgian people when they arrived in the bakeries. It was also a kind of pride and also a patriotic thing against the Germans, the German occupiers. So when the bakers emptied these flour sacks, they presented the empty flour sacks in their windows to show that they had American flour. And people were so excited by these sacks that apparently they asked, okay, may we use these sacks?
Joe Andrews
Welcome to this episode of Haptic and Hughes Tales of Textiles. I'm Joe Andrews, a hand weaver interested in the stories textiles tell us and the often hidden hands that fashion clothes into something useful and beautiful. These tales almost always have something new to tell us about ourselves and cast a fresh light on our families and communities. The feed sack has traveled far and wide, and while it and its contents have unquestionably brightened millions of people's lives, even saving some from starvation, it also has its dark side. It was born out of America's cheap cotton crop, which was grown and harvested on the back of enslaved peoples and then poorly paid and exploited sharecroppers.
Jamie Schwartz
Well, bead sacks or cotton sacks started in the mid-1800s. I think it was 1847 when Elias Howe patented the sewing machine, the lock stitch sewing machine, and that allowed bags to be held tightly shut in a way that they hadn't before. And that coincided with a plethora of cotton in the United States, which in large part was due to slavery because we had all of this cheap labor. I'm doing air quotes on cheap labor, you know, that. That so much cotton was being grown and produced. And so this combined and that was the beginning of the Sac era.
Joe Andrews
That's Lindsay Kuhl McCrae, who's written the classic book the Colourful History of a Frugal Fabric. Lindsay says that before the sacks appeared, goods were moved around in heavy and awkward wooden barrels and boxes. The sacks were much lighter. But they also had an unexpected impact.
Jamie Schwartz
These sacks were largely just plain sacks. Sometimes they would have the logo stamped on them from the mill or whatever. But as soon as that happened, people started using the fabric. I mean, right away, fabric was something that costs money. And if you were a rural person or a city person and didn't have much money, this was like free fabric. And it didn't take manufacturers long to figure that out. And then as time went on, they started trying to make their sacks more and more desirable. So they, you know, would print embroidery patterns on them and they would print instructions on, sew these four together to make a bed sheet or a tablecloth, or instructions on how to get the ink out from the label that was printed on the sack.
Joe Andrews
And people began using the plain sacks for lots of things.
Jamie Schwartz
And in Dearborn Historical Museum in Dearborn, Michigan, has a wedding quilt handpieced in 1850, and the top contains more than a thousand pieces of fabric, and the back is sacks. And that was a common thing that, you know, if you had a logo that was hard to get out of a white piece of fabric, you would use it where it wasn't going to show. Like the back of a quilt or the underwear was very common. You would use it in your undergarments because then you didn't have to worry about getting the label out. And there's the apocryphal story of the woman who was making undergarments for her husband and she didn't bother to remove the label from the flower sack that said self rising.
Joe Andrews
You know, in America in the late 1930s, flour millers started printing fashionable patterns onto the feed sacks.
Jamie Schwartz
Manufacturers realized that these women, many of them rural farm women, were not maybe the people who were going into town and making the actual purchases. They were not the person who had the pay, the paycheck or the money in hand, but they very clearly drove the decision making. You know, I interviewed many, many people who told stories about their mother or their grandmother sending the father or the son into town with a swatch of fabric and saying, get me two more sacks that look like this so that they had enough to make a garment or whatever they needed. So, yes, women were very clearly driving the market for this. And the goal, I think, was to make the sacks almost as valuable as what was inside of them.
Joe Andrews
This was one of the first marketing campaigns in America directed at women. And it worked.
Jamie Schwartz
Yes, it was very successful. In. Sometime in mid-1940s, there were something like more than 3 million people in the United States wearing clothing made from feed sacks. People use feed sacks, the fabric from feed sacks, for absolutely everything. One of the women that I gave a talk at my aunt's retirement community, and she told me a story which I thought was really a good example of feed sacks. She said her mother would make the girls dresses, and then as they would outgrow them, of course, they would pass them down to the younger daughter and the younger daughter, and then when they got to the point where no one else could wear them, she would take the fabric from them and make pajamas. And then she would. When those started to get worn out, she would take the fabric and that was still good, and make aprons. And when that got worn out, she would make dish towels. And then that fabric would wind up in the barn as a rag.
Joe Andrews
No part of a sack, however trivial, was wasted.
Jamie Schwartz
And in some homes, every bit of cloth was once a sack. Another interesting aspect of that is that people saved the string, too. The string that held the sack together. People saved the string. And one woman that I interviewed told me stories about on her farm where she grew up, there was always a ball of string. And that string got used for tying up plants, for tying up packages, for mending her father's overalls. You know, it was kind of a thick. Thicker than a regular thread. So, yeah, this. Even the string was saved. And I've seen doilies that were made out of the string crocheted from the string. And one woman in Texas told me a story that her mother knit socks out of feed sack string, which I can't figure out how they. They stayed up. But.
Joe Andrews
But in the 1930s and 40s, the big draw were the prints. Over the years, more than 18,000 different designs were used by the flower and feedsack companies.
Jamie Schwartz
Well, it was very important for the feed sack prints to be fashionable. I did have some wonderful stories about girls who got to go into town with their dad and pick out the fabric for their dress in the feed store. And these stories of them hopping from sack to sack of these big stacks of them and choosing their own fabric. So some people certainly did get to pick their own fabric, but the. The prints, they wanted them to be stylish. They wanted them to be fashionable. Unfortunately, I have not been able to find out who these amazing designers were. And one of the things that has happened with many of the records of these companies is the companies would be bought by one other company and then by another company and the records were thrown away or lost some. Sometimes someone will refer to a woman who designed the fabric with no name. And the only name that I have been able to find was someone named Charles Barton. And he was a European trained New York designer who was hired by one of the fabric or the bag companies to bring glamour to Feed Sachs. And there are stories that he came to the Midwest and drove around and saw what people were doing and wearing and got ideas for his designs. But other than his him, I have never found a name designer, very sadly.
Joe Andrews
This land is your land this land is my land From California to the New York island From the redwood forest to the Gulf Stream water this land was made for you and me. Lindsay thinks that what made the feed sack so successful in America was the mindset of the times.
Jamie Schwartz
I guess I would go back again to that waste not, want not use every last bit. It was just a matter of survival for many people. It was like if you wanted to have a diaper for your child, this is where you got the fabric. If you wanted a dress, this is where you got the fabric. And you know, all those little scraps that got left over from the dresses would sometimes be made into quilts or other things. And there was just no waste.
Joe Andrews
There's an exhibition on at the moment at the International Quilt Museum in Nebraska in the American Midwest, called Feed Sax An American Football Fairy Tale. It's co curated by Sarah Walcott and Jamie Schwartz.
Lindsay Kuhl McCrae
A lot of the research around it characterizes the manufacturers of these feed sack bags or cloth commodity bags as benevolent, bestowing beautiful printed fabrics upon all these poor rural people for their reuse. And a lot of the time people treated the marketing of feed sacks as sort of a gospel in a way, not kind of questioning the motives behind the manufacturers. And you know, cotton that was grown for the feed sacks was largely produced by poor people and African Americans in the South. And that sort of facet of the history of feed sex is largely undiscussed or not discussed at all. And people often think of feed sex as being like purely American phenomenon when their use and reuse was global.
Sarah Walcott
I guess sort of spinning off the last thing Jamie said. And I think our research kind of bore out this idea that feed sacks are one of these kind of points of myth. In American culture around quilt making and textiles. A lot of Americans tend to see quilts and quilt making as the very American phenomenon, when obviously we borrowed it like everybody else, and their roots go back thousands of years further and, you know, in India, in the Middle east and elsewhere. But I think part of the fairy tale is like Jamie was saying, that feed sacks and repurposing feed sacks in order to create clothing, quilts or other objects is some kind of product of, like, American thriftiness and ingenuity. It's really not. And I think that those myths are really interesting. I think why we want to believe in them is interesting, But I think we can't really get to the heart of that until we understand what the actual facts of the production and use were.
Joe Andrews
For Jamie and Sarah, the story of Feed Sachs is much more complex than just the accepted mythology. And one of the ways the exhibition seeks to add layers to the tale is to include quilts made by the people who harvested the cotton.
Sarah Walcott
And the first, the older of the quilts was made by Rella Thompson, who was born in 1887 to formerly enslaved parents in North Carolina. She lived and worked as a sharecropper, and she would trade eggs and produce in order to be able to purchase thread, fabric, things like that, for creating quilts and other items for her household. And so on the quilt that we have that she created, you can still see part of a paper label affixed to one of the feed sacks. There's also a pretty thick cotton thread used to do quilting. And so we think there's a good chance that was the thread that originally held the bag closed. The other quilt is by her oldest daughter, Geneva, who was the oldest of her five children. And Geneva's quilt features over dyed feed sacks on the back, so the print is still faintly visible, but she over dyed all of them in a really lovely blue. So we were really happy to feature these because it really shows that not only were feed sacks used for through generations, but also quilt making is something that was passed down as a tradition among families who have been historically left out of that kind of quilting narrative.
Joe Andrews
Jamie says that the feed sack era also covers a period of rapid change as rural families moved into the cities.
Lindsay Kuhl McCrae
Agricultural production in America shifted so rapidly throughout the 20th century, and we saw the evaporation of the family farm as a means for people to gain money for employment for also like people were trying to make a living on the family farm, and it was becoming increasingly hard with the rapid industrialization of agriculture. That's Another important facet, too, I think.
Joe Andrews
The exhibition has a range of items made with feed sacks, from trivets to boxer shorts, dresses to dolls clothes. But as ever, it's the quilts that have the best stories.
Lindsay Kuhl McCrae
I would say my favorite piece is going to be the first piece you see when you enter the gallery. It is a quilt that we've called the Flag Quilt. I'm not sure if the maker called it that. We don't know. But we know who made it. And her name is Sarah Durthula Hooper Taylor. She lived her life in Tennessee. She made the quilt about 1920. And it's made entirely of repurposed fabric. The front side is made of small cotton sacks that were used to house tobacco. Even tobacco was sold in little cotton sacks. And she dyed them, hand dyed them all. And she made this incredibly beautiful quilt that is an American flag waving on a pole in this kind of checkerboard background that's blue and pinkish red. The back side of the quilt is entirely made out of sugar sacks. It said that she dyed the thread that she used to quilt it with. She dyed it to match the front patchwork. So it's either dyed red or blue or kept white. And her life, we know a little bit about her through genealogical research. And she was born into a sort of prominent family. Her father was a judge. She married a guy who ended up, for whatever reason, going insane and entered an asylum. He committed suicide by drowning in a river that was up near the insane asylum. There's a really dark story, a newsprint article that appeared at the time of his death where it said people at the asylum tried to raise his body from the river through the use of dynamite, which is something I had never encountered, never heard, never heard of somebody doing this. They ended up finally dredging his body up near the banks of the river. And she gave some of her children up to an orphanage and got them back. At some point throughout all these life events, she made this quilt that is a symbol of America. That's why we chose it as the first piece you see when you come into the gallery. Just because it embodies the story of America. Life is hard, but through it all, she still, like, created this quilt. And it's just so cool. So that's why it's my favorite piece.
Joe Andrews
Sarah thinks that the way in which the feed sacks were promoted and has echoes for us today in the age of fast fashion, and that the marketing of feed sacks was one of the first efforts to promote over consumption.
Sarah Walcott
Yes, exactly. I think there's a lot of great things about, of course, all the creativity and the frugality of the reuse. But I also think there was. There were huge pushes in advertising as well as even from the United States government encouraging people to buy and reuse these sacks. During World War II, feed sacks were classified as an industrial use. So the government really wanted people to be buying and using them in order to make clothing, rather than purchasing ready to wear clothing or trying to purchase yardage when there were shortages of those. And so I think between manufacturing and a big government push to encourage people to buy, buy, buy, use, use, use. I think it really. Yeah, it really does boil down to capitalism.
Joe Andrews
Like most things, the quilt Museum's exhibition has a number of items from outside the us, from India, Pakistan and Japan. But the place where flour sacks have a culture and a mythology all of their own is in the Caribbean. Flour is a vital part of Caribbean cooking. Here's Rose Sinclair, who's a lecturer at Goldsmiths University in London and an expert on the histories and craft practices of black Caribbean women.
Rose Sinclair
Flour is used for key things, like if you want to make your soup, you make spinners. So spinners are like a fine kind of finger dough that you make to put into your soup, or they make them for their fried dumplings or their fritters. It's the food thing that you go to. So it's your hard dough, bread, it's your bun, it's your whatever, the foods that you have, it's something that's used every day.
Joe Andrews
And with flour came flour sacks. These were plain cotton with blue Millers brand names on them from America and Canada. And it took a great deal of work to get these logos out.
Rose Sinclair
My mum said it was the soap plant. There's a plant called a soap plant, but she didn't tell me that what the Jamaican name was. She just called it a soap plant. You kind of rub it onto the cloth and it creates a soap lather and then they bash it and wash it on the rocks. So they would wash it in the river, or if you're at home, you would wash it on a ridged board. You would wash it, rinse it, wash it, rinse it. And the soap would actually let that blue stain come out or the dye come out. Once you've done that, you would then use what they call the blue, which is like a little pot of dye, but it has a whitening agent in it and it kind of enhances the white. Then you hang it up and because the sun's so hot out There it bleaches. So they come out ultra white.
Joe Andrews
And after all that work, the sacks could be sewn into garments. Shorts, skirts, short pants, bloomers. And of course, this being the Caribbean cricket whites.
Austin Clark
If you were watching, watching a cricket game and your eyes were good, you would often spot a small speck of blue as large as a comma or a period on a player's shirt, and you would immediately recognize that the shirt was made from a flour bag. All that bleaching and bluing and the rays of the Hudson failed to obliterate all the letters that spot. That lingering fraction. Perhaps part of the letter C in the word Canada would be all it took to stamp this young, ambitious cricketer with the poorness of his social origins. Blame would rest at the door and in the washtub of the poor cricketer's mother. And the cricketer would suffer the teasing and the many reminders of class and poverty for years and years afterwards until he was welcomed into his grave. Boy, you're wearing flour bag.
Joe Andrews
That's from Austin Clark's Barbadian memoir, Pigtails and Breadfruit, written some years after the legendary West Indian cricket team, captained by Clive Lloyd, stormed the world. It intrigues me that some of them may have begun their illustrious careers in cricket whites made of feed sacks. Because it's clearly shameful to be dressed in flour bags.
Rose Sinclair
Yeah, it's because the element of shame was thrown back at the woman because she hadn't been able to wash out the blue dye. So is that because she didn't know how, or that knowledge hadn't been passed to her, or she just missed that spot? That's the bit that makes me laugh. Why is it thrown back on the woman? And this is about passing on intergenerational knowledge. And I think if people ever read that piece of Austin Clark's work, what they see is that legacy that's been going on for 300 years, that kind of work, that union of the flower SAP, because they don't grow wheat in Barbados or in any of those Caribbean islands. So that knowledge came out of necessity. So he's going by what his mum was doing, but his grandma would have done. His great grandma would have done that. So that's learned knowledge that he's then passing on through his literature.
Joe Andrews
Rose has also found evidence that flour sacks were used to make demob suits for Caribbean soldiers that had served in the British army during World War I.
Rose Sinclair
Well, there were no jobs, but they needed outfits and stuff. So what I found so far is that men were given rations and one of Their rations was flour sack fabric to make d mob suits. I think what would have happened, they would have either got fabric from either the Americas or Canada and had that imported into the islands, that would be the only way they could make the suits out of flour sacks. Or there would have been surplus flour sacks on the island. From the pictures that I saw, I don't think they were dyed or bleached. I think they were just left plain because you've got to remember we're in a hot country, so you don't need to dye it or bleach it. I don't think there was any printing on them, so I think that they might have acquired the fabric before it got printed. But it does say their demob suits were flour sacks.
Joe Andrews
For Rose, flour sacks and the way they were used is about so much more than make do and mend. It's about the knowledge and the skill women in the Caribbean pass down the generations. It's about the craft and the know how that helped them and their families live with dignity.
Rose Sinclair
These were valued pieces of fabric that meant that you could go out in your Sunday best. That meant that you could embroider the best pieces of designs on them. And they were saluted when they were on display at the farmers fairs. So this tells us that this cloth had value. It was regarded as high status as a piece of craft.
Joe Andrews
And Rose says if anyone has any of this buried in their trunk in the UK or in the Caribbean, she'd love to see it. And she's not the only one. In London, one of the Victoria and Albert Museum's new acquisitions is a set of beautifully made table mats, a gift to a windrush generation migrant. Turn them over and put them together and they spell out the words flower bleached hard wheat. Buffalo, New York. Once those words spelt the difference between starvation and survival, flour and the sacks they came in played an extraordinary role in saving the Belgians from famine in the First World War. This is a tale of American and Canadian generosity that had unexpected consequences.
Annelien van Kempen
There was a rich harvest in 1914, summer 1914, in North America. And it was usual to bring the grains from North America to Europe. Europe didn't grow their own crop anymore.
Joe Andrews
Annelien van Kempen has made the story of the flour sacks that were sent to Belgium her life's work.
Annelien van Kempen
When the war broke out, there was around the world a lot of concern about the situation in Belgium. Belgium was occupied by the German army and very soon, because they were used to import their flour or no, their grains, I Must say, because they would grind it in Belgium. But there was a shortage. Within two, three months, were no imports available anymore.
Joe Andrews
And that's because the British were blockading the big ports to try to stop the Germans supplying their army and people with weapons and food. In London, Britain, which had no wish to see the Belgians starve, agreed that the independent International Commission for Relief could transport American and Canadian flour to Belgium. And the Germans agreed it could be distributed, overseen by the Americans, which at that stage was still a neutral nation.
Annelien van Kempen
Now, in the meantime, because of the war, United States, as in Canada, as in Australia, as in Britain, as in everywhere, the people, the population, really wanted to help the country that was in need, and it was Belgium. Now, in the United States, there were a lot of Belgian immigrants, and their roots were from Belgium. So they started their collection of money, but also of products and said, okay, let's send these to Belgium to help our people.
Joe Andrews
Until then, flour had come into Europe as grain to be ground locally. But because this was so urgent, there was a change, and it was decided to send flour already milled in flour sacks.
Annelien van Kempen
There were three reasons. First of all, the cotton industry in the United States was under pressure. They really needed help. So cotton was a good thing for America to export. Secondly, it would be handy to have them in 49 pounds sacks, which would enable the people to carry them. And then third, they were already aware of the fact that the cotton could be used to, or reuse, I must say, to make clothes of it. And in fact, they also marketed the ID of use of cotton sacks and said, well, let's do these cotton sacks, because three reasons we help our own industry, it's handy for the people there. And thirdly, they can reuse because we don't need these sacks back to the United States, which of course, was even thinking about it, a really ridiculous idea that you could, in wartime send back these flowers.
Joe Andrews
So one of the great American fundraising drives of the 20th century began in the autumn of 1914.
Annelien van Kempen
If every village, every church, every school was involved, for example, in Kansas, in Minnesota, in Ohio, they collected money to buy flour from the local mill.
Joe Andrews
Mills across America and Canada charged friendly prices for their flour, and they stamped each bag with their own logo and different texts, like Colorado's flower donation to Belgian non combatants or from Pornee county donated to Belgian sufferers.
Annelien van Kempen
From the end of November, the railways accepted these flower transportation for free. So that was the reason that all the states in the United States were encouraged to immediately send their flower in a very short time. And after the 20th, December 20th, the flour was in the ports and from then transported by ships to Rotterdam.
Joe Andrews
And the impact was extraordinary. This really did save the Belgians from hunger, and it also gave them hope.
Annelien van Kempen
And imagine that you are in an occupied country having no food, and then comes in these flour sacks. And flour, I mean, that looks the same wherever it comes from. But here come in the packaging, and packaging can be decorated already with prints. So it was colorful prints. It was with maybe one or two colors, but some were really with three or four color.
Joe Andrews
The Belgians used the flour sacks for children's dresses and table runners, underwear, sheets and pillowcases, just as the senders imagined they would. But what they also did was to embroider the sacks, often incorporating the logos into their designs as a way of saying thank you to the generous and Americans and Canadians who had rescued them from the brink of starvation.
Annelien van Kempen
And many Belgians thought, okay, we will embellish these flower sacks. But they also wrote letters, postcards, etc, and they donated all this and brought it to the minister, the American minister in Brussels. He had to organize all this, all these gifts into his residence. And we know from representatives who traveled back to see their family In May, June, July 1915, they took some presents that they received back to the United States. And then, of course, to show the Americans how well they had done with the charity that they did to send flour in the cotton sacks to Belgium. They wanted also in the papers, in the newspapers to show how grateful the Belgians were for this help.
Joe Andrews
The quality of work on many of these sacks is very beautiful. Several hundred of them, expressing thanks to the American people, are held in the Herbert Hoover Presidential Library Museum in West Branch, Iowa. Others are still in Belgium. The vast majority of them are unsigned. No one now knows who made them. But Anneline has been able to find a number that do have names on them. And one of them from Liege was signed Nelly Satharat.
Annelien van Kempen
Nelly was 15 or 16 years old. She lived with her father and her sister, and she had a stepmother. Nelly painted a very nice kind of little story on the flour sack, and she also embroidered it. But really she did a very nice aquarelle painting.
Joe Andrews
Nelly was the daughter of a dentist in Liege, and on her flour sack she painted and embroidered scenes of how wheat is grown and milled. So how she imagined the flour reached Belgium after the First World War. She married and had three children. But the 20th century had more horrors in store for her. Because Nellie and her family were Jewish, she and her children went into hiding at the start of World War II. But horrifically, they were betrayed and sent to Auschwitz. Nelly was killed there, but her daughters Betty and Claudine, amazingly survived.
Annelien van Kempen
So by knowing that there had been two daughters surviving, Hubert and I were thinking, did these girls marry and have children themselves and are they still alive? And we finally found the granddaughter of Nelly Saserrath living in the United States.
Joe Andrews
And.
Annelien van Kempen
And it was such a touching story to be connected with someone who in fact didn't know anything about this flour sack. But we were able to get it all together because of the flour sack, and that's because the educational collection in the museum is there. This ordinary flour sacks. What stories they still tell to us about wartime and very sad circumstances.
Joe Andrews
What was the reaction of Nelly's grandchild when you told them this?
Annelien van Kempen
A complete shock. It was a complete shock.
Joe Andrews
Did they know about their grandmother?
Annelien van Kempen
They knew about their grandmother. Oh, yes. Yes. Then you come into the whole history of the Jewish people and Jewish families and it's. That is such a fragile. And I really was overwhelmed myself by going from this educational collection of flour sacks in the Jewish museum to the. Yeah, horrifying story of the Jewish people in the Second World War for every everyone. It's still so precious.
Joe Andrews
So Annaleen's work did enable Nelly's grandchildren to be in touch with something that had been made by their grandmother all those years ago. Her work painted and embroidered onto a flour sack the last part of her that survives. Thank you to everyone who took part in this podcast. Without their knowledge, research and interest in the story of feed sacs and how they've changed the world, this episode could not have come into being. A special thanks to Glenn Charles for voicing Austin Clark's extract from pigtails and breadfruit. Haptic and Hu is hosted by me, Jo Andrews, and edited and produced by Bill Taylor. It's an independent production supported by its listeners who bring us ideas and generously fund us via Buy Me a Coffee or by becoming a friend of Haptic and humor. This keeps the podcast free from advertising and sponsorship. It also brings you something extra every month with a separate podcast called Travels with Textiles, hosted by Bill Taylor and me, where we cover a whole range of different textile news and topics. You can find out more about this episode and see pictures pictures of the feed sacks we've talked about, get details of the music, and a link to Annaleen's blog with more on the story ofnelly@www.hapticandhue.com. listen-series-6 we're taking our summer break for the next two months. And we'll be back in September with some brand new episodes of Tales of Textiles. Friends of Haptic and Hugh will continue for June and July with a couple of special episodes, but I want to sign off this time by saying that we've now reached the milestone of 50 episodes of haptic and Hu. No one is more amazed than I that the podcasts have been listened to around the world. So many of you who love textiles and social history, and I wanted to salute you all, each and every one of you, for coming with me on this extraordinary textile journey over the past three and a half years. So thank you for listening. Enjoy your making. I'll be back in September.
Haptic & Hue Podcast Summary: “America’s Cotton Feed Sacks: And How They Changed The World”
Release Date: June 6, 2024
In the episode titled “America’s Cotton Feed Sacks: And How They Changed The World,” host Joe Andrews delves into the profound impact of the seemingly simple cotton feed sack. Andrews shares a personal connection, describing a mid-20th-century feed sack gifted by a listener:
“It's extraordinary to think that this simple piece of fabric, fabric has had such an impact on so many people around the world.” (00:20)
The story begins in the mid-1800s, coinciding with Elias Howe’s patented lock stitch sewing machine in 1847. This innovation enabled the production of tightly shut sacks, coinciding with a surge in cotton availability in the United States—largely fueled by slavery. Jamie Schwartz explains:
“...the lock stitch sewing machine... allowed bags to be held tightly shut in a way that they hadn't before.” (04:02)
This period marked the onset of what Schwartz refers to as the "Sack era," a time when cotton feed sacks became ubiquitous.
Lindsay Kuhl McCrae emphasizes the feed sack as a symbol of the American dream, embodying thriftiness and the ability to make do:
“Feet sacks embody an important facet of the American dream, where people lift themselves up by their bootstraps...” (00:58)
Before their introduction, goods were transported in cumbersome wooden barrels and boxes. The lightweight feed sacks revolutionized this process and introduced an unforeseen cultural artifact. Schwartz notes that feed sacks transitioned from mere transportation tools to invaluable household fabrics, especially for those with limited financial means:
“...fabric was something that costs money. And if you were a rural person or a city person and didn't have much money, this was like free fabric.” (04:29)
In the late 1930s, flour millers began printing fashionable patterns on feed sacks. This strategic move targeted women, recognizing their pivotal role in household decision-making. Schwartz highlights this as one of America's first marketing campaigns directed at women:
“This was one of the first marketing campaigns in America directed at women. And it worked.” (06:52)
Over time, more than 18,000 different designs adorned these sacks, transforming them into canvases of creativity and style. Women used these prints to craft everything from dresses to quilts, ensuring no part of the sack was wasted:
“No part of a sack, however trivial, was wasted.” (07:55)
While feed sacks are often viewed through an American lens, their influence was truly global. Rose Sinclair sheds light on their significance in the Caribbean, where flour—and by extension, the sacks—are integral to daily life:
“Flour is used for key things... it's the dough for your patties. And so the fabric that then results from it is also a precious piece of fabric.” (01:15)
In the Caribbean, feed sacks were meticulously cleaned and repurposed into garments and other essentials, reflecting a deep-seated cultural craftsmanship.
An intriguing aspect of the episode is the discussion of an exhibition at the International Quilt Museum titled “Feed Sacks An American Football Fairy Tale,” co-curated by Sarah Walcott and Jamie Schwartz. This exhibit showcases quilts made from feed sacks, including pieces crafted by the very individuals who harvested the cotton. Highlighting personal stories, Lindsay Kuhl McCrae critiques the often overlooked exploitation behind feed sack production:
“Cotton that was grown for the feed sacks was largely produced by poor people and African Americans in the South. And that sort of facet of the history of feed sacks is largely undiscussed or not discussed at all.” (12:43)
Sarah Walcott expands on the complexities surrounding feed sacks, arguing against the simplistic narrative of American thriftiness and ingenuity. She points out the capitalistic motives behind marketing feed sacks and government encouragement during World War II:
“...these myths are really interesting. I think why we want to believe in them is interesting...” (13:58)
Walcott draws parallels between the promotion of feed sacks and today’s fast fashion, suggesting that the early marketing efforts for feed sacks laid the groundwork for patterns of overconsumption.
Annelien van Kempen shares a poignant chapter in the history of feed sacks—their critical role in alleviating famine in Belgium during World War I. In response to a blockade that cut off grain imports, the International Commission for Relief facilitated the shipment of American and Canadian flour in cotton feed sacks. Van Kempen explains:
“...manufacturers... marketed the use of cotton sacks and said, well, let's do these cotton sacks, because three reasons we help our own industry, it's handy for the people there.” (32:04)
These flour sacks became symbols of hope and survival, repurposed by Belgians into everyday items like dresses, table runners, and even intricate embroidered artworks as expressions of gratitude.
The episode beautifully intertwines personal stories with historical facts. One such narrative is that of Nelly Satharat, a young Belgian girl who intricately painted and embroidered her flour sack with scenes of wheat cultivation and milling. Tragically, Nelly and her family fell victim to the Holocaust during World War II. Her granddaughter, unaware of the significance of the flour sack, was later connected to this legacy through research by van Kempen:
“...Nelly was the daughter of a dentist in Liege... she was killed [in Auschwitz], but her daughters Betty and Claudine, amazingly survived.” (36:57)
This story underscores the enduring human connections and the powerful narratives woven into these humble sacks.
Joe Andrews wraps up the episode by reflecting on the multifaceted legacy of cotton feed sacks. From their origins in an era marked by exploitation to their role in global humanitarian aid and cultural craftsmanship, feed sacks are more than just fabric—they are storytellers of human resilience, creativity, and complex socio-economic histories.
“Life is hard, but through it all, she still, like, created this quilt. And it's just so cool. So that's why it's my favorite piece.” (19:35)
The episode serves as a testament to the intricate tapestry of history, culture, and personal narratives embedded within everyday objects.
Notable Quotes with Timestamps:
For those interested in exploring more about this intricate tapestry of history and textiles, visit Haptic & Hue’s website to view photographs of the discussed feed sacks, learn about the exhibition, and access additional resources on the legacy of these fabric tales.