
Creativity and invention aren’t words often associated with hardship and suffering, but in the Second World War women in America and Britain faced with clothes rationing rose to the challenge in many different ways. Those days are long past,...
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Clare Bradley
Foreign.
Jo Andrews
Welcome to the new episode of Haptic and Hughes, Tales of Textiles. Hi, I'm Jo Andrews and I'm a handweaver interested in how textiles and fiber change what we know about the human story. This information has been overlooked and often ignored in the formal accounts of our communities and whatever else is going on in your life. I hope you find the next 40 minutes a calm space in which to hear tales that change the way you think about history. Because it seems to me that being able to understand the past in a better way helps each one of us find a surer path through the present and the future. This month's episode about clothes rationing and the impact it had in Britain and America in World War II isn't just an exercise in nostalgia. Nostalgia, as enjoyable as that might be, textile rationing has an interesting history. In both countries, it permanently changed people's attitudes to garments and caring for them. It also brought change and opportunity. More importantly, all these years later, it has some lessons for us in an age of. Of textile overabundance. Clare Bradley, who was the winner of the popular TV program the Great British Sewing Bee in 2020, has re adopted rationing. She has limited herself to the British wartime standard for the past eight years.
Megan Mason
I definitely do it mostly to think about the environmental impact of our clothes, but also the sort of ethical side. Thinking about all the fast fashion and the working conditions of people who make cheap clothes and some of the stories and pictures that you see of the conditions that those people work in is really terrible. And I don't want to perpetuate that system. So I think it's probably a twofold concern.
Jo Andrews
There will be more about how Claire manages her modern system of rationing, but the environment and labour conditions were the last things on the British government's mind. In June 1941, what happened was that.
Clare Bradley
Basically half of all factory production for clothing went over to making uniform for a third of the population. So the remaining 2/3 of the population has only 50% of the factory production that it had pre war. So as you can see, that isn't just going to add up. So the idea of clothes rationing was to reduce the demand for clothes and to ensure that when people bought, they bought thoughtfully.
Jo Andrews
That's Julie Summers. Her book Fashion on the Ration is an enjoyable account of how rationing worked and the impact it had on people. She says the government had been thinking ahead about how they were going to provide for. For all the uniforms they knew they would need.
Clare Bradley
And rather brilliantly, the British government bought the entire Australian, New Zealand and South African wool clip in 1939, in the full knowledge that it would be having 15, even possibly 20 million people in the armed services and various other services that required uniforms. So clothing was very much on the government's mind from the get go. And by 1941, several things had happened. One was that a lot of shipping had been lost in the North Atlantic, so there was a real shortage of materials and there was a real focus on concentrating the clothing manufacture towards uniform.
Jo Andrews
Julie says this wasn't just about uniform though, it was about all the clothing they needed for the different jobs they were asking women to do as well.
Clare Bradley
And if they were going to ask girls, for example, to go and work on the land, or it be the timber girls, they had to have clothes for them. So it was very much part of government thinking all along. And although Churchill initially was very much against rationing, Oliver Lyttelton, who was the president of the Board of Trade, managed to persuade him on the grounds that they simply did not have enough clothing to keep the country closed if they didn't start to ration.
Jo Andrews
So on June 1, 1941, over 18 months after the war had started, the government issued clothing coupons for everyone in the country. People got 66 coupons to last them a year. And under the scheme it took 18 of those to be allowed to buy an overcoat, 11 for a woollen dress with six sleeves, eight for a pair of men's trousers, four for a woman's blouse and two for a pair of underpants or briefs.
Clare Bradley
And that was calculated based on some research done by a person at the Board of Trade and a woman in the bank of England. And between them, for 10 years they'd been looking at what the British clothing average clothing purchase was and therefore the Board of Trade based the 66 coupons on average spending. People had very, very few clothes in those days. And Mass Observation did a survey in 1941, just after clothes rationing was introduced, where they established that the average working class woman had one skirt, one dress, one pair of shoes, two blouses. The average working class man had had one suit, one pair of shoes and a pair of clogs. A middle class woman might have two skirts, three dresses, a couple of cardigans and maybe one two piece suit. So people had very, very many fewer clothes in their wardrobes than we do today.
Jo Andrews
Even so, rationing was extra labour, especially for women who had to manage the coupons for their families. Clothes became horribly expensive and it didn't solve the government's problems.
Clare Bradley
But, of course, what happened was there was colossal shortages throughout because clothes rationing helped, but it didn't solve the problem of lack of factory space, which had been basically put over towards uniform production.
Jo Andrews
So the government then introduced austerity design. It told the factories exactly what kind of fabrics they could produce and they seriously limited the sort of designs they could make with them.
Clare Bradley
And what that did was to gather together the little factories and try to turn them into bigger factories, so people had to work together. And they also limited the number of runs of material dramatically. So rather than having something like 1,700 different types of cotton, they reduced it to six different types of cotton, so you could do massively long runs, which was far more economical. But the Government realised this was going to be very unpopular because it would limit the different fabrics. So in a really brilliant move, the Board of Trade got in contact with Audrey Withers and Harry Yoxhall, who were Vogue. And Harry Yoxall was the managing director of Conde Nast publications and Audrey Withers was Vogue's editor. And in consultation with them, they came up with not only the idea of the austerity measures, so limited lengths of skirts, number of buttons and so forth, but also with the idea of getting people like Molyneux and Hart Hartnell and Digby Morton to design the clothes in order to give the women of Britain the confidence that they could dress like the Queen, but on a tiny budget. So a dress would cost 30 shillings rather than 30 guineas, but would be designed by Norman Hartnell. And it really worked. The press loved it and Vogue loved austerity design. They really thought it was a very much better solution to the British clothing problem than just fresh.
Jo Andrews
And while there still were shortages, people loved the simple, unfussy utility clothes that came complete with a very recognisable double cheese symbol. Designed by open competition, these garments were well made and smart and for many, they were a huge improvement on what they'd had before the war, when you could get them.
Clare Bradley
Oh, I think it was. And a lot of people who I spoke to were very pleased with their utility clothes and said they were extremely comfortable and they fitted very nicely, but they said they were not always available. This was one of the issues. You know, they'd go into a shop and they'd want a size, for the sake of argument, size 10 skirt, and they just were non available. It. It was a problem of supply.
Jo Andrews
The Government had an unbelievable amount of control over how clothes were made.
Clare Bradley
The Government had so much control over our clothing that it dictated the width of the gusset in women's knickers, which is just extraordinary. On the other hand, it didn't ration hats, so you could buy hats. If you could buy hats, you could wear any hat you liked. So what they wanted to do was to ensure that the staple was utility and minimal in its need for the amount of material. But they wanted you to have fun as well. So if you could get a hat, you could stick feathers in it, you could wrap tape around it. They didn't ration gloves. I mean, gloves were difficult to come by, but, you know, gloves were not rationed. So they were very clever at allowing a little bit of freedom, while all the time being certain that the coats, the dresses, the skirts, the blouses and the underwear was all perfectly designed. And the other thing that is a bit heartbreaking, I have to say, is that they only permitted six new designs per year, which, if you look nowadays, if you go into Marks and Spencer, for example, and you look at the range of, say, Brasil, there must be 500 different types of bra. You can buy Marks and Spencer, but in Britain the design for the bra would be set and that's what you'd have to buy for that year.
Jo Andrews
Julie says that initially people panicked about clothes rationing, but they settled down.
Clare Bradley
I think there was just shock because it was so out of the blue. Unlike food rationing, which had been pre warned, clothes rationing came out of the blue, literally. It was announced on 1 June, 2 June was a bank holiday, so the shopkeepers had time to get used to it. And I think a lot of women went into panic because they would have stocked up on, for example, stockings or blouses or whatever. So initially there was panic and then people began to settle down and think, well, actually, you know, my old suits will work and we can make alterations and so forth. But quite quickly there became a very vigorous black market in clothing coupons. And there are stories and it doesn't reflect very well on the upper classes, but there are stories of women buying their maids clothing coupons from them. And the government clamped down on this. So you could only use your clothing coupons if they were still in the booklet that they were issued in, which.
Jo Andrews
Had your name on it, which had.
Clare Bradley
Your name on it, had your number on it, and it was very strict.
Jo Andrews
It brought a different way of thinking about clothes, material and yarn, one that never really left the women who lived through that period. It marked them all, as any one of us who's rummaged through our grandmother's sewing boxes knew these were a rich repository of curious things. I used to hold them up and say, what's this forgotten? Said my grandmother. But it might come in useful. The famous make, do and Mend booklet was issued in 1943. And as the war went on, the number of clothing coupons Sank to just 24 per person for one dreadful eight month period.
Clare Bradley
People made their own clothes, made their children's clothes and what make, do and Mend did, it did two things. Firstly, it gave very sound advice, but secondly, it made it not only possible, but actually fashionable to wear patches. So you could patch clothes, you could stitch up clothes, you could wear multicolored leather shoes, but leather was in short supply. So people had, you know, three different types of leather shoes and those became fashionable as opposed to looking like a poor disgrace, which is to some extent what they really were.
Jo Andrews
And so people didn't mind darns and visible darns and patches. They were seen as a kind of badge of honour.
Clare Bradley
They were a badge of honour that was encouraged by the Board of Trade. Lyttleton was quite clear. He said, you know, I don't want women to go round looking slovenly, but to wear a patch is a sign that they've made a sacrifice for a man overseas who's doing his duty for his country. So there was an element of that, but there was always this thought that actually women were very proud and they did not want to look scruffy. So there was a super trend in mending stockings and there were specialist hosiers who would have little booths in the big clothes shops and they would specialise in blind darning stockings. So women could wear their stockings again and again, even though they had, you know, rips in them, because the government forbade the sale of silk stockings in October 1941, or even earlier, I think December 40. So, you know, those precious, precious stockings were much loved and desperately sought after. So anything you could do to mend stockings, to keep them looking as whole as possible, people did.
Jo Andrews
It's 80 years since the Second World War ended and there are very few people still alive in Britain or America who remember clothes rationing. But my father Michael, now in his late 90s, has a vivid recollection of going without a vital piece of clothing.
Michael
My memory was that going back to school in, I think it was the easter term of 1940, 42, must have been without an overcoat. I just took a Macintosh and I suffered for that. I don't know why my parents allowed this to happen because they were very good parents, but I went back without an overcoat. I can't remember why not, but I got a terrible chill as a result of what? Standing on the touchline watching first 11 football matches, which was de rigueur. You had to do that, it's mandatory, and you froze if you hadn't got an overcoat.
Jo Andrews
Michael and both his parents spent much of the war in uniforms which were provided. And he says clothes rationing was just one of those things you put up with.
Michael
We didn't bemoan it in any way and I don't think it was discussed very much. But then you see, on the whole, during the war, people weren't cared a lot about what they looked like. They kept clean and tidy because you jolly well had to, and they tried to keep warm in the winter. But there was no question of being smart. This extraordinary description of smart casual was decades away from then. Nobody had thought of that. I don't think it reflected on us much at all. I don't think we thought about it.
Jo Andrews
Across the Atlantic, America entered the war in December 1941. They had wisely learnt the need for fabric in wartime from the British and didn't wait long to bring in clothes. Rationing, silk and rubber had already disappeared from the shops because of the problems with supply from Japan and China. But just over a month after Pearl Harbor, American manufacturers were being instructed what they could and could not make by the new War Production Board.
Julie Summers
Stanley Marcus of the Neiman Marcus dynasty, he came in as the head of the textiles division of the War Production Board. So they're the ones that came up with our limitation orders, which were the L85s. So anything that was under a limitation order on the tag, it would have the little L85 next to it, which meant it had been approved to be sold under the limitations. Because the difference in the United States versus, like the UK was that the limitations were not placed on the civilians, they were placed on the manufacturers. That's the main, big, big difference between the two rationing programs, especially with the clothing. So it really kind of was very effective because the War Production Board relied heavily on propaganda to sell the idea of patriotism and doing your part to get people to go along with this. And one of the things they could say was, you don't have to lose your creativity, you can still buy whatever you want. But the things that were given to them to buy were mandated by the government. So I could go and buy it, but I had to buy whatever was in the store.
Jo Andrews
That's Megan Mason, who works as the hair and makeup supervisor for Houston Ballet. She's also a World War II enthusiast and wrote her thesis on the impact of clothes rationing in the UK and the us. She says that what Stanley Marcus did was to take the 1941 silhouette for men's and women's clothing in America and to freeze it. His aim was that with every year the war went on, 15% less fabric would be used in the production of garments.
Julie Summers
So by doing that, that's when they put in the orders of, you can't have a hood, you can only have one pocket. You can't have a fake pocket. There's no more fake pockets. You cannot have any Norfolk jackets, which were really popular because they have, like, the gathering in the back. So it has, like, a little baby peplum in the back, but it's extra fabric. So they were like, nope. I mean, it went down to, like, sleeve circumferences. They had measurements out for that. The only exceptions were, like, wedding gowns, maternity clothing, and then any religious garments. That was it. That there were no other exceptions outside of that.
Jo Andrews
Manufacturers did not step out of line.
Julie Summers
And they would have very heavy fines if the manufacturers were found to not be complying with the L85 orders. They were heavy fines. There could be jail time. They were pretty serious about it.
Jo Andrews
And Hollywood was recruited to play its part, but more particularly to dress its part. Gone with the Wind was one of the last big costume movies released in 1939, before the wartime era of austerity came in.
Julie Summers
Oh, my gosh. I mean, the costumes are amazing. They're huge. They're elaborate and luxurious. So much fabric, so much hooping. It was just all the ribbon, all the ribbon in the world. And the budgets kind of reflected that. And so when we get into the war, what happened is we have what's called a backstock, right? So in the costume shops that I work in that anybody works in, there's just usually a wall of bolts of fabric. Just bolts and bolts and bolts of fabric. And that's because if you have to repair a costume or it's just the leftovers from what you made, you just have this back stock of inventory. And so the same was with the. The movie studios. They had a backstock of inventory of clothes that they could repurpose, things they could make. So if they really did want to use kind of a luxurious fabric, it's not that they would have to buy it, it's that they already had it. Sequins weren't rationed, so they could use sequins and things like that. And Then later, you know, sequins were made out of plastic, so that helped a lot. You know, they. That wasn't rationed at all. So the studios kind of got around having to deal with the rationing in that way.
Jo Andrews
But was it right in wartime for Hollywood to use this kind of glamour, even if they had the fabric in the backstock? Megan has uncovered memos going back and forth about the way in which the stars were dressed in that iconic wartime movie, Casablanca, which was released in 1942. Hal Wallace was the film's producer.
Julie Summers
He is talking about the new costume changes that came across his desk for Ingrid Bergman's evening outfits. And he is not happy about it. He said, I need you to look at them and talk to me, but I'm writing you because the point is we should think seriously about whether this girl would ever appear in an evening outfit. After all, these two people are trying to escape from the country. The Gestapo is after them. They are refugees making their way from country to country, and they are not going to Rick's Cafe for social purposes. It seems a little incongruous to me for them to dress up in an evening clothes as though she carried a wardrobe with her. I think it would be better for Henry to wear a plain sport outfit or a Palm beach suit and if she just wore a plain little street suit. Somehow or other, these evening costumes seem to rub me the wrong way. And I. I was so taken aback by that, because it is so true. Like, they really were conscious of what the American person was consuming. Even though it's Ingrid Bergman. I mean, she's so glamorous. And he said, absolutely not. Like, we need to have a little bit of a reality check here. They're not allowed to wear these things right now.
Jo Andrews
It had a dramatic effect on costs. The costumes for Gone with the wind cost over $165,000. Casablanca came in at just $22,000. But Megan says she doesn't think cost was the point.
Julie Summers
It doesn't seem so. It seems like it's more for the reality of what's happening. Looking back at photos, Winston Churchill, he went to go visit heads of state, right, during this time, and he didn't have suits on. And it's the same thing. This guy is only in this thing. She's only in this thing. It's not appropriate for them to be in these lavish things during this time, and they're running from the Gestapo. She's not going to be like, oh, I'm so sorry. We're going to dinner. Let me Put on my beaded gown like she's probably hot. You know, it's just wants a cocktail and just to relax for a minute. And when you go back and watch Casablanca, the lines and everything in that film are very simple. Nothing is over complicated and overworked at all.
Jo Andrews
Rationing changed American women's experience of fashion. And like their British sisters, they learnt to make do and mend lessons that stuck with them all their lives. But this new era also set free American design. Up until then, everyone had looked to France for the new fashion trends, but Paris was effectively cut off. And that gave American designers a chance to shine and they were a breath of fresh air. One of the best known was Claire McCardell.
Julie Summers
She really came to the forefront in this time period. And she had already been working in the 30s and early 40s and was a really big proponent of like American women in sportswear. Think Katharine Hepburn, Marlena Dietrich to a certain extent, but wearing the pants and riding the bikes and going to the beach and just a kind of a woman of practicality and was like, we don't have time to deal with all this. I have kids and can I have something that's easy to wash, that didn't need to go to the dry cleaner? So she came out with some really amazing designs during this time. One was called a popover dress, which was really more of like a wrap. But it was very easy, right? It's very quick. It could be belted. It was a really light weight material. Of course, it did have to go with the L85 regulations. But the popover dress was originally like a $7 utilitarian dress. And so then she could put in different colors and things like that and have a lot of fun with it.
Jo Andrews
And even though Paris reasserted its dominance after the war with Christian Dior's new look, that clean all American girl trend never quite left us either. The other thing that happened in the US is that the war gave the production of synthetic fibers a huge boost.
Julie Summers
So wool was out, right? Wool was also one of the first things that was pulled for the military for their uniforms. And so you had to repurpose the wool and things like that. So one of the things that they had to come up with was a synthetic fiber that could mimic wool. So they came up with, you know, the different polyesters. So once this ball got rolling really in the late 1930s, it has never stopped. And with the accessibility of natural fibers and textiles being taken away, the man made fibers. I mean, these companies made just hand over fist money with all of these things so that other companies could keep going.
Jo Andrews
In America, clothes rationing ended as soon as the war did in 1945. In Britain, which was essentially bankrupt, it dragged on horribly until in 1949, a reluctant government finally rescinded all restrictions in both countries. The experience of war really set the scene for mass production of textiles, as it was the first time that factories had had to gear up to produce such large runs of government mandated cloth. It's hard for us to believe that this difficult period of our history may have anything to teach us today. But Clare Bradley, the winner of the 2020 Great British Sewing Bee, had a moment of insight in August 2017.
Megan Mason
I had a phase when I found a shoe brand that I really liked and I bought quite a lot of pairs of shoes from them, five in about two months. And I still wear some of them now and I've had them repaired many times, but I looked at the shoes and I thought, oh, that's a bit obscene in terms of commodities and stuff. And I wanted to set myself a challenge or give myself a structure of some sort. And I looked around and I came across various schemes that people had used over the years to reduce their own clothing consumption. People have done things like nothing new for a year, one garment in, one garment out. And some of the schemes particularly nothing new for a year. I thought, well, what if you get to the end of the year and all your clothes have worn out? Are you going to buy a whole new wardrobe? That's not something you can do every single year. So I wanted to find a scheme that I could repeat if I got on well with it. And being interested in 40s clothing, I was aware of the rationing scheme, so I had a look at it on the Internet and I gave it a go. And with a few modifications, I kept it up.
Jo Andrews
Part of the reason this probably came to mind for Claire is that she's always been known for her love of 40s fashion.
Megan Mason
The reason I particularly like and wear more 40s styles is I like the balance it gives of. You can look stylish, I hope, and there are also a lot of them very practical. So for a party dress, I might still wear a 50s big poofy skirt or a pencil skirt, but those are not practical for riding around town on your bike, whereas 40s is, you can wear a lovely dress and still cycle into town to go out for a drink in that shape of dress. The wide leg trousers that I really like, I've made three from the same pattern. I do have to tuck them into my socks because they are quite voluminous. But yes, it's. It's that balance of realistic work where, you know, denim was coming in very casual, but you can put those kind of very practical fabrics into your wardrobe and still look feminine. It's not my ultimate goal. But a lot of kind of very practical clothes are not very flattering. And so I like that balance of being able to look a bit girly, but also go out and tromp through the mud in it.
Jo Andrews
At the beginning of each of her clothes years, Claire awards herself 66 coupons.
Megan Mason
When I first started, I really made a game of it. I printed out little coupons. There are pictures. If you search on the Internet, you can find little pictures of coupons. I printed them out and I cut them off as I went along to really see how my allowance was going down. Now I keep notes in a little notebook, but I will, as I go along, I will make notes, usually just on an app on my phone, of things that I might need in the next year.
Jo Andrews
But when she started, not everything went to plan.
Megan Mason
I started in August originally, and I found myself using up all my coupons over the winter for heavyweight winter jackets and jumpers and things. And I'd get to about April and not really have much for summer clothes. So last year I shifted my dates, and I'm now doing April to April, and I've now used up all my coupons till April, so I'm not sure how well that's working. But at the start of the year, I have my 66 coupons. I will mentally set aside a small number for things that I definitely need to replace. And as I go through the year, I think of something I need or I want or a project I need fabric for. And I'll just consider to myself, how many coupons is that going to take? Is that going to leave me short of something else?
Jo Andrews
Later in the year, when we spoke, Clare still had four months to run on her year and had used up all her coupons. I'm sure it's a feeling every woman alive in the 1940s would have recognized. But as winner of the sewing bee, Clare is obviously a hugely competent seamstress, and she says that making for yourself does help you get much more out of the system.
Megan Mason
Part of the coupon cost of the garments takes into account the amount of labor required to make them. So a very complicated men's jacket, for example, would be a lot more coupons than a women's cardigan, for example, because it takes into Account not only the cost of the materials, you know, the multiple layers of fabric required, but also the hours of labour required to make that garment, because labour was also a restricted commodity. So if you bought the fabric, yes, you could definitely get more out of your coupons. You could eke more clothing out of perhaps a smaller amount of fabric than the commercial patterns were using. You could piece your fabric and there were patterns released that were designed for using very little fabric remaking clothes. So definitely. And obviously then if you bought your own fabric, you could have scraps left over to use for something else later, perhaps.
Jo Andrews
When I met her, she was wearing an incredibly stylish pair of beautiful tweed trousers. How many coupons had those cost her?
Megan Mason
The trousers I'm wearing at the moment are a replica of a Land Girl British pattern taken from. There's someone who's got a blog on the Internet who traced off an original pattern and these cost zero coupons because I made them out of an old coat.
Jo Andrews
But Clare says her rationing system has changed the way she sees her clothes.
Megan Mason
It's definitely made me more inventive and I do look at things in my wardrobe and think, how much do I wear that and what could I turn it into? I try not to be too much along the line of remaking something just for the sake of it or just for novelty. And there are definitely booklets from the 40s that talk about that, that say, don't remake this just as a frivolous thing. Remake it if it's worn out or if you're genuinely not wearing it, you know, if it's completely out of style. So I try not to just do rapid upcycles kind of things, but genuinely transform something into a garment I will wear more frequently.
Jo Andrews
She says she finds it difficult to say if it's just the rationing that has changed her wardrobe.
Megan Mason
I think that's a little bit tricky to answer because it's hard to say whether it's just my style changing as I've got older. I don't care so much what people think about how I look. So I do dress more eccentrically than I used to five or six years ago. I've stopped caring, and my colleagues have accepted that I think the styles are probably perhaps a little bit different. I've always been a relatively plain dresser, so not lots of frills and laces and trims and things. The styles are definitely on the minimalist side. Plain shirts and plain cardigans and things that can be used in different ways or layered or a top that can be worn with a skirt or with trousers or over something else. So it probably does mean that the things in my wardrobe have to serve multiple purposes where maybe they didn't before.
Jo Andrews
She doesn't make everything for herself. She's a keen hiker and buys all her cold weather and waterproof clothing, but so far she says the system hasn't let her down. She's found an entry in the old ration books for everything she needs.
Megan Mason
I definitely encourage anybody to give it a go. They could use this scheme. I found it helpful because it's a pre formed scheme. It gives you very clear breakdowns of the coupon cost, but different people have different habits and I would just encourage everybody to find a scheme that works for them, whether that be the one in, one out, or they're nothing new for a year. Just try it. And if you've been keeping something like that up for a year, you suddenly realize what you can and can't do without. So it doesn't have to be this scheme. I've just personally found it really helpful.
Jo Andrews
And if you do want to try this scheme, we'll be giving away copies of the book make do and Mend Keeping Family and Home Afloat on War Rations with the next episode of Friends of Haptic and Hume. Thanks to everyone who took part in this episode, Julie Summers and Megan Mason for their research and expertise, Claire Bradley for putting it into practice and showing us that rationing still has something to teach us all, and to my father for searching his long stock of memories. If you'd like to see pictures of ration books and some of the clothes we've talked about, then head over to the webpage for this episode at www.hapticandhue.com. tales-og-textiles-series-haptic and you is hosted by me, Jo Andrews. It's edited and produced by Bill Taylor and sound edited by Charles Lomas of Darkroom Productions. Haptic and Hu is an independent podcast free of ads and sponsorship, supported entirely by its listeners, who generously fund us through Buy Me a Coffee or by becoming a friend of Haptic and Hugh. Friends get access to an extra podcast a month hosted by me and Bill Taylor, and in the next episode we'll be talking to Mary Ann Williams about the beautiful new book called Textiles of Ireland, and to Mary Schaser about her ambitious new Extra exhibition, which celebrates the ancient and deep entanglement between textiles, people and our world. To join friends, go to www.hapticandhue.com join, but until then it's goodbye from me and enjoy whatever you are making.
Podcast: Haptic & Hue
Host: Jo Andrews
Release Date: April 3, 2025
In this episode of Haptic & Hue's Tales of Textiles, host Jo Andrews delves into the intricate history of clothing rationing during World War II in both Britain and America. Exploring how wartime restrictions reshaped societal attitudes towards garments, consumption, and sustainability, Jo aims to uncover lessons from the past that resonate in today's era of textile overabundance.
Clare Bradley, the 2020 winner of The Great British Sewing Bee, serves as a primary voice in illustrating the British experience of clothing rationing.
Implementation of Rationing: In June 1941, Britain introduced clothing rationing to address severe shortages exacerbated by halted factory production and significant resources diverted to military uniforms. Clare explains, "Basically half of all factory production for clothing went over to making uniform for a third of the population. So the remaining two-thirds of the population had only 50% of the factory production that it had pre-war." (02:56)
Coupon Allocation: Each citizen received 66 clothing coupons annually, which allocated specific amounts to various garments. For example, "18 coupons to buy an overcoat, 11 for a woollen dress with six sleeves, eight for a pair of men's trousers," and so forth (05:01). Clare highlights that prior to rationing, the average British had significantly fewer clothes, with a working-class woman owning just "one skirt, one dress, one pair of shoes, two blouses" (06:36).
Austerity Design: To maintain morale and fashion standards, the British government introduced austerity designs, collaborating with Vogue's Audrey Withers and designers like Norman Hartnell. Clare recounts, "The Board of Trade got in contact with Audrey Withers and Harry Yoxhall, who were at Vogue, and came up with the idea of getting prominent designers to create stylish yet material-efficient garments." (07:18)
Adaptation and Black Markets: Initially met with panic, especially among women managing household coupons, rationing soon led to adaptation. However, scarcity gave rise to black markets where coupons were illicitly traded. Clare observes, "There became a very vigorous black market in clothing coupons. Women were buying their maids' coupons, and the government clamped down on this." (11:11)
'Make, Do and Mend' Initiative: Introduced in 1943, this program encouraged citizens to repair and alter their clothing. Clare notes, "Make, Do and Mend gave sound advice and made it fashionable to wear patches and visible mends, turning them into badges of honor." (12:58) This initiative fostered a culture of thriftiness and pride in maintaining one's wardrobe, despite the restrictions.
Personal Recollections: Jo's father, Michael, shares a poignant memory: "Going back to school without an overcoat, I took a Macintosh and I suffered a terrible chill... clothes rationing was just one of those things you put up with." (14:34). His experience underscores the everyday hardships faced during this period.
Transitioning across the Atlantic, Julie Summers, author of Fashion on the Ration, provides insight into the American approach to clothing rationing.
Government Oversight: Following Pearl Harbor in December 1941, the United States swiftly implemented rationing, much like Britain. However, unlike the UK, the US imposed limitations directly on manufacturers rather than on consumers. Julie explains, "The limitations were placed on the manufacturers. They had to comply with strict orders, and non-compliance resulted in hefty fines or even jail time." (18:12)
Role of Hollywood and Design: American studios adapted by utilizing existing backstock fabrics, allowing some continuity in fashion. However, this period also saw the rise of American designers like Claire McCardell, who championed practical sportswear. Julie mentions, "Claire McCardell introduced designs like the popover dress, blending practicality with style, which resonated with American women." (24:59)
Synthetic Fibers: The war accelerated the production of synthetic fibers in the US, as natural resources like wool were repurposed for military needs. Julie notes, "The development of polyesters was a direct response to the shortage of wool, and this innovation has had a lasting impact on the textile industry." (26:19)
The episode culminates by bridging historical practices with contemporary movements towards sustainable fashion.
Clare Bradley's Modern Rationing: Inspired by WWII rationing, Clare adopted a similar system to reduce her environmental footprint and counteract the detrimental effects of fast fashion. She meticulously manages her wardrobe using a 66-coupon system, mirroring the wartime allocations. Clare shares, "At the beginning of each of my clothing years, I award myself 66 coupons... It's a structure that helps me limit consumption and stay creative with my wardrobe." (31:00)
Megan Mason's Insights: Megan Mason, a World War II enthusiast and academic, elaborates on how contemporary individuals can draw inspiration from rationing. She recounts her own experience: "I found it really helpful because it's a pre-formed scheme. It gives you a very clear breakdown of the coupon cost." (36:39). Megan emphasizes the balance between practicality and creativity, advocating for personal adaptability in modern applications of these principles.
Enduring Influence: Although the war ended in 1945, with Britain lifting restrictions only in 1949, the legacy of clothing rationing persists. It not only reshaped fashion but also instilled values of sustainability and mindful consumption that continue to influence contemporary approaches to clothing and textile use.
Through detailed accounts and personal narratives, this episode of Haptic & Hue illuminates how wartime clothing rationing fundamentally transformed societal attitudes towards textiles. By examining both British and American experiences, Jo Andrews and her guests reveal that the lessons from this period—sustainability, resourcefulness, and the balance between practicality and style—remain highly relevant today. As we navigate a world grappling with overconsumption and environmental concerns, the strategies developed during World War II offer timeless guidance for creating a more sustainable and thoughtful relationship with our wardrobes.
Notable Quotes:
Clare Bradley (02:56):
"Basically half of all factory production for clothing went over to making uniform for a third of the population. So the remaining two-thirds of the population had only 50% of the factory production that it had pre-war."
Clare Bradley (07:18):
"The Board of Trade got in contact with Audrey Withers and Harry Yoxhall, who were at Vogue, and came up with the idea of getting prominent designers to create stylish yet material-efficient garments."
Julie Summers (18:12):
"The limitations were placed on the manufacturers. They had to comply with strict orders, and non-compliance resulted in hefty fines or even jail time."
Clare Bradley (31:00):
"At the beginning of each of my clothing years, I award myself 66 coupons... It's a structure that helps me limit consumption and stay creative with my wardrobe."
For more visual insights, including images of ration books and garments discussed, visit the episode's webpage at www.hapticandhue.com.