Haptic & Hue – "Flax is Back! The Great Linen Revival"

Host: Jo Andrews
Episode Release Date: October 3, 2024
Podcast Series: Haptic & Hue's Tales of Textiles
Episode Title: Flax is Back! The Great Linen Revival

Introduction to the Linen Revival

The episode "Flax is Back! The Great Linen Revival" delves into the resurgence of flax cultivation and the revitalization of the Irish linen industry. Hosted by Jo Andrews, the podcast explores the historical significance of linen in Ireland and its promising future amidst modern sustainability trends.

Flax Cultivation Resurges in Northwestern Europe

Jo Andrews begins by painting a vivid picture of flax fields blooming across northern France, Belgium, the Netherlands, England, Scotland, and notably, Ireland. He remarks on the unexpected yet heartwarming sight of flax at the Palace of Versailles, hinting at Ireland's deep-rooted connection with linen.

Jo Andrews [00:20]: "All over northwestern Europe, the past few years have brought the mid south sight of small blue flowers dancing in the fields in the most unexpected places."

Historical Significance of Irish Linen

Fiona McKelvie provides an insightful perspective on the intertwined history of Northern Ireland and the linen industry, emphasizing its pervasive influence on the region's population and economy.

Fiona McKelvie [01:37]: "If most people in Northern Ireland were to scratch their skin, they've got flax growing through their veins."

Origins and Growth of the Industry

The narrative traces back to the late 1600s, highlighting how political tensions between England and Ireland inadvertently spurred the growth of the linen industry. Kieran Toll, Keeper of Collections at the Irish Linen Centre in Lisbon, explains how protective tariffs on Irish wool led landowners to support flax cultivation and linen production instead.

Kieran Toll [07:29]: "If you grew X amount of flax, you'd be given a spinning wheel. If you grew more, you're actually given a loom."

Impact of Huguenot and Quaker Influence

The influx of skilled Huguenot weavers fleeing France and Quakers from Britain in the 18th century significantly bolstered the Irish linen industry. Their expertise and craftsmanship set the stage for Ireland to become synonymous with high-quality linen.

Kieran Toll [09:11]: "The Irish were quite good at producing flax, but they were never the best at producing flax. They were the best at producing linen."

Rise and Challenges of the Linen Industry

The Golden Era of Irish Linen

In the late 19th century, Belfast Mills exemplified the zenith of Irish linen production, with staggering output figures illustrating its global dominance.

Fiona McKelvie [04:13]: "In 1892, there were 12 million miles of vineyard being spun in Belfast Mills every week."

Transition from Cottage Industry to Mechanization

The traditional domestic setting of linen production began to decline with the advent of the putting-out system and mechanization introduced by James K of Preston in 1824. This shift resulted in the erosion of independent weavers and spinners, leading to lower wages and diminished craftsmanship.

Kieran Toll [12:12]: "Wet spinning comes in and almost overnight it kills off the domestic Irish spinning industry."

Impact of the Irish Famine and World Wars

The Irish Famine of the mid-1840s and the American Civil War further accelerated industrialization and mechanization in the linen industry, positioning linen as a crucial material during wartime, as evidenced by its use in aircraft during World War I.

Fiona McKelvie [14:01]: "By 1911, [Belfast] was the fastest growing city in Victorian Britain."

Decline in the 20th Century

Post-World War II, the introduction of synthetic fibers and changing lifestyles led to the gradual decline of the linen industry. Government subsidy removals and shifts away from formal living further diminished the demand for traditional linen products.

Fiona McKelvie [17:16]: "By the late 1990s and early 2000s, the last spinning mills were closing."

Preservation and Modern Revival Efforts

Surviving Beetling Mills

William Clark's of Upperlands stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Irish linen. Their 200-year-old beetling mills continue to produce highly coveted, lustrous beetled linen sought after by tailors and couture houses.

Duncan Neill [19:54]: "Beetled linen is incredibly thin and strong and valued by tailors and couture houses."

Reviving Traditional Techniques

The episode highlights the efforts of Helen Keyes and Charlie Mallon Star, who embarked on a mission to revive flax cultivation and linen processing in Ireland. Faced with the absence of existing processing facilities, they undertook the daunting task of restoring old machinery, including a scutching turbine, to process flax into usable fibers.

Helen Keyes [24:02]: "We just had this really naive assumption that somewhere...there would be a scutch mill and a spinners and a weavers and we would just send it off to be processed."

Restoring Wet Spinning Machinery

Mario Sierra of Mourn Textiles is pivotal in bridging the gap in spinning technology. By restoring a 70-year-old wet spinning machine, he aims to create a complete linen production cycle within Ireland.

Mario Sierra [31:37]: "We need to retain...the gold that needs to learn. They've spent years of being an apprentice to get that knowledge."

Innovative Applications of Flax

Fiona McKelvie broadens the scope by exploring modern uses of flax beyond traditional textiles. From composite materials in automotive and sporting goods to insulation and sound absorption, flax demonstrates versatility that aligns with sustainable and eco-friendly trends.

Fiona McKelvie [33:36]: "If we think of Irish linen, we can't just think of it in a traditional way any longer."

Global Recognition and Future Prospects

Kieran Toll underscores Ireland's fortunate position in maintaining global brand recognition for Irish linen. As mindful consumerism grows, there is renewed appreciation for locally and ethically produced fabrics, positioning Irish linen for a promising resurgence.

Kieran Toll [35:24]: "When you think linen, you think Irish linen... we're very, very lucky to have that."

Vision for a Sustainable Future

Helen Keyes expresses a hopeful outlook for the future, envisioning widespread flax cultivation and the replacement of synthetic materials with natural fibers to enhance biodiversity and sustainability in agriculture.

Helen Keyes [36:55]: "I'd be really disappointed if in the next five years we're still the only ones growing flax."

Conclusion

The episode concludes with a heartfelt acknowledgment of the dedication and passion of individuals like Helen, Charlie, Mario, and others who are pivotal in reviving the Irish linen industry. Their efforts not only honor a rich heritage but also pave the way for sustainable textile practices in the modern world.

Jo Andrews [38:03]: "Without their deep knowledge, determination, and skill, there would be no story of Irish linen to tell, and certainly no hope for it as a modern fibre in a different world."

Listeners are encouraged to explore more about the linen revival and view visuals of the beetling mill and flax fields at www.Hapticandhew.com. The episode is part of a series supported by its dedicated audience, ensuring the continuation of these insightful textile stories.

Key Takeaways

• Historical Legacy: Irish linen has a storied history intertwined with the region’s socio-economic fabric, particularly in Northern Ireland.
• Revival Efforts: Enthusiasts and modern artisans are restoring traditional flax processing techniques and machinery to rejuvenate the industry.
• Sustainability: Flax’s versatility and eco-friendly properties make it a valuable resource for sustainable and innovative applications.
• Global Recognition: Ireland's reputation as a premier linen producer offers a competitive advantage in the modern textile market.
• Future Outlook: With growing demand for ethical and locally produced textiles, Irish linen is poised for a significant comeback.

Notable Quotes

• Jo Andrews: "All over northwestern Europe, the past few years have brought the mid south sight of small blue flowers dancing in the fields in the most unexpected places." [00:20]

• Fiona McKelvie: "If most people in Northern Ireland were to scratch their skin, they've got flax growing through their veins." [01:37]

• Duncan Neill: "Beetled linen is incredibly thin and strong and valued by tailors and couture houses." [20:24]

• Mario Sierra: "There are people who still use these machines or members of their family who have spun on these machines... it's bits of gold that need to learn." [31:37]

• Helen Keyes: "I have to confess, I was a little bit dubious that we might be taking on a little bit too much..." [25:49]

• Kieran Toll: "When you think linen, you think Irish linen... we're very, very lucky to have that." [35:24]

• Fiona McKelvie: "If we think of Irish linen, we can't just think of it in a traditional way any longer." [33:36]

Explore More:
Visit www.Hapticandhew.com for additional resources, photos, and information on the linen revival.

This detailed summary captures the essence of the "Flax is Back! The Great Linen Revival" episode, providing listeners and newcomers with an in-depth understanding of the resurgence of the Irish linen industry, its historical context, modern challenges, and future prospects.