Haptic & Hue: Episode Summary – "Pleats Please: The Story of the World's Oldest Fashion Technique"

Released on March 6, 2025

Introduction: The Timeless Allure of Pleats

In the latest episode of Haptic & Hue's Tales of Textiles, host Jo Andrews delves into the enduring charm of pleats, a fashion technique that has transcended millennia. Andrews highlights the remarkable continuity of pleating, noting, “It seems pleats please us all” (00:00). This episode explores the historical significance, technical mastery, and cultural impact of pleats, weaving together insights from fashion historians, textile experts, and contemporary practitioners.

Historical Significance: Unearthing the Taqan Dress

The episode opens with a journey to the Pea Tree Museum in London, home to the Taqan dress, recognized as the world's oldest complete woven garment. Curator Anna Garnett explains, “The pleating is sort of all over the bodice and down the sleeves... it’s a type of knife pleating, which is a technique that’s still used today” (03:20).

Discovered in 1913 by Professor Sir William Matthew Flinders Petrie, the Taqan dress dates back to between 3482 and 3102 BC. Garnett recounts the garment's treacherous preservation journey: “They laid in wait during the period of the Second World War... eventually re-excavated in the 1970s” (04:50). The dress exhibits signs of wear, including creases and sweat stains, humanizing the ancient Egyptians who once wore it.

The Art and Science of Pleating: Insights from George Kaladjian

Transitioning to the technical aspects, Andrews introduces George Kaladjian, a master pleater from New York’s garment district and author of The Fundamentals. Kaladjian breaks down pleating into fundamental types: “There are only three ways to fold a piece of fabric... and only two shapes of pleating” (10:43). His expertise underscores the complexity and precision required to create pleats that enhance garment shape and movement.

Kaladjian shares his passion for pleats, emphasizing their unique capacity to add volume and drama: “What is unique to pleating... is volume. It has a way of collapsing a tremendous amount of volume in a very neat, systematic way” (17:43). He highlights iconic pleated garments, including Marilyn Monroe’s famous dresses, affirming the timeless appeal of pleats in high fashion.

The Delphos Dress: Fortuny’s Revolutionary Creation

A significant portion of the episode is dedicated to Mariano Fortuny’s Delphos dress, an early 20th-century masterpiece that reinvigorated pleating techniques. Fashion historian Rachel Elspeth Grose provides context: “When the Delphos gown came out, people referred to it as a tea dress because it had the implications of informality” (22:03). The dress broke societal norms with its free-flowing, revealing design, challenging the restrictive fashions of the Victorian and Edwardian eras.

Grose delves into the enigmatic origins of the Delphos pleats, suggesting that Henriette Necron, Fortuny’s partner, was the true innovator behind the technique: “The patent is the property of Madame Henriette Brassart... Henriette had all the skills to do this” (25:02). Despite Fortuny’s prominent name, Grose argues that Necron’s contributions were pivotal yet historically overshadowed.

Recreating the Delphos Pleats: Liane Kanda’s Scientific Approach

The episode introduces Liane Kanda, an associate professor of biology at Ithaca College, who embarked on a decade-long quest to replicate the Delphos pleats. Kanda describes her methodical experimentation: “The first thing I tried was a shibori technique...but they wouldn’t last” (33:44). Her breakthrough came with the use of an autoclave, enabling high-temperature pressure to set the pleats permanently: “The autoclave delivered a great permanent pleat” (35:04).

Kanda’s persistence culminated in a precise pleating process that honors the original Delphos design. She reflects on her achievement, stating, “She has now made seven dresses out of her beautiful pleated silk... they look like pretty perfect replicas” (37:35). Her success not only pays homage to historical techniques but also bridges the past with modern scientific methods.

Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of Pleats

Jo Andrews wraps up the episode by celebrating the multifaceted legacy of pleats: “A dress is never just a dress. It carries with itself its own stories and messages” (38:13). From ancient Egyptian tombs to Hollywood glamor and scientific recreation, pleats continue to be a significant element in the narrative of fashion and textiles.

Listeners are encouraged to explore further through Haptic & Hue’s website, where photographs of the discussed garments and additional resources are available. The episode underscores the intricate interplay between tradition and innovation, illustrating how a simple fold of fabric can encapsulate centuries of human creativity and expression.

Notable Quotes:

• Jo Andrews (00:00): “It is incredible to think that there's a fashion technique that we can say with confidence has been in continuous use for over 5,000 years.”

• Rachel Elspeth Grose (02:02): “People sometimes write fashion off... But clothing also tells us about what its wearer likes, loves, fears, worries about.”

• Anna Garnett (03:20): “This is a type of knife pleating, which is a technique that’s still used today.”

• George Kaladjian (10:43): “There are only three ways to fold a piece of fabric... and only two shapes of pleating.”

• Rachel Elspeth Grose (25:02): “The patent is the property of Madame Henriette Brassart... Henriette had all the skills to do this.”

• Liane Kanda (35:04): “The autoclave delivered a great permanent pleat.”

Further Listening:

In the next episode, Jo Andrews will converse with Professor Andrew Groves from the Westminster Men's Archive, exploring the distinct functions and perceptions of men's and women's clothing.

Connect with Haptic & Hue:

Visit www.hapticandhue.com for more episodes, detailed notes, and resources related to the stories of textiles that shape our world.