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Jo Andrews
Foreign hello and welcome to this surprise extra episode of Haptic and Hunter. I know we said there wouldn't be a July episode of Tales of Textiles as this podcaster needed a summer break and there isn't. This is something a bit different. I'm Jo Andrews and I'm the host of Haptic and Hue. I'm a handweaver interested in what textiles and their history tell us about ourselves and our communities. As some of you know, as well as running this podcast, we run a separate monthly podcast for Friends of Haptic and Hu. By we I mean me and Bill Taylor, who's the editor and producer of Haptic and Hume. It's called Travels with Textiles, and it gives us a chance to cover all kinds of subjects that crop up in the news or that we come across in our travels and that we don't get the chance to talk about in the main Haptic and Hu podcast. We thought that this month we'd give you a taste of what the monthly Friends podcast sounds like. Joining Friends costs five pounds a month or fifty pounds a year, and as well as a monthly podcast, Friends get a chance to enter the drawer for the textile gifts that we give away with every episode. These vary from antique French linen towels or woven off cuts from the Scottish mills to next month's giveaway, which are bundles of fabric from the famous London store Liberties, which is marking its 150th anniversary. Friends also get 20% off all the textile travel guides that I write with Rebecca devanny, and there's a new one of those just out for Edinburgh and the south of Scotland. But the important thing about Friends is that they're the people who keep this podcast going. We don't carry advertisements or seek sponsorship because we think there's just too much of that kind of noise already in our lives, and also because for us, it's the story that counts. So without Haptic and Hughes Friends, the podcast simply wouldn't exist. We couldn't afford to fund it out of our own pockets. So if you're already a member, thank you. We appreciate it enormously. And please know that you make a real difference. If you'd like to think about becoming a member, the place to go is www.hapticonhue.com. join where you can find out more. What follows is May's Friends of Haptic and Hu episode It came the day of the announcement from the UK's Heritage Crafts Council that two textile crafts, linen beetling and quilting in a frame had just gone on the list of crafts that are now critically endangered. Both have been entered onto UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list. This episode focuses on how whole cloth quilting got onto the list and what it means for the craft. I hope you enjoy it and meanwhile, we will be back in September with a brand new episode of Haptic and Hue. And until then, have a great time and enjoy whatever you are making.
Bill Taylor
Hello and welcome to the latest edition of Travels with Textiles, the special podcast for friends of Haptic and Hu. I'm Bill Taylor, the editor and producer of Haptic and Hue.
Jo Andrews
And I'm Jo Andrews, the host of Haptic and Hugh.
Bill Taylor
This month we travel in search of a traditional textile craft that has become honoured and endangered almost in the same breath. UNESCO has just announced that it is adding this old quilting practice to the list of crafts that have intangible cultural heritage status. It's called whole cloth quilting and has a history that stretches back certainly to the 16th century and maybe much further. This is one of the original forms of quilting on cloth, creating beautiful and complex patterns as it is done. At the same time as this recognition from UNESCO, whole cloth quilting has also been placed on the red list of endangered crafts by the Heritage Crafts Council. And that's because the number of elderly practitioners of this skill, mainly in Wales, in northern England and the Scottish Borders, continues to dwindle and quilting frames disappear. Joe has been talking to two quilters who are seeking to reverse this by recognizing, protecting and reviving whole cloth quilting and the tools, crucially, and the tools needed to carrie adoads.
Jo Andrews
This is really the most incredible achievement by Deb Maguire and Jess Bailey. And they have spent 18 months filling out forms and proving to the Heritage Craft Council, and inevitably behind that UNESCO, that whole cloth quilting is something that deserves to go on the endangered list, the red list of crafts. It's not often that a textile craft gets on that list. So many congratulations to them. And this was announced today as this podcast goes out. So that is fantastic. But many of you will be asking, what is whole cloth quilting? And there are really two different skills going on in quilting, and most people perhaps don't see that because we've come to focus on one and not the other. And obviously when we think of a quilt, we think of piecing pieces of material together and obviously this used to be scrap material which would make up a patchwork quilt, the patchwork being the top of the quilt. And then you have the bit in the middle, Bill, which is the bit that keeps you warm which is called the batting and adds weight. And then you have the backing, which is the bit you sleep under. And the whole lot is held together by the quilting stitch. And whole cloth quilting makes very little play of the fabrics that are used for the top. Sometimes that's just a plain white, but it focuses on what happens with the quilting stitches and what kind of patterns are made with those. And those can be incredibly complex. This is the original form of quilting in Britain, something that was completely functional and very beautiful. And we know we can prove that it dates back to the 1500s. And we also know that it was practiced right up until the 1970s and 80s in those kind of upland areas that you mentioned.
Deb Maguire
The.
Jo Andrews
But as people get older, as the quilters begin to die out, it too as a practice has been diminishing. And so what Deb McGuire, who's been a whole cloth stitcher of some renown for many years, and Jess Bailey have done, she's also a lifelong quilter, they got together and to try to reverse the decline of whole cloth quilting. They've done a number of things. And what they have done is registered what's called rocking stitch in a flat frame, which is the technical definition of whole piece quilting with UNESCO on its intangible Cultural heritage list of crafts. And at the same time, it's gone on the red list of endangered crafts in the uk. And because it was impossible to get a new quilting frame made in the uk, they have also found someone to make up brand new quilting frames in Britain. So for the first time in many years, you can commission your own quilting frame. When I spoke to them, I started by asking Deb McGuire how it was that she had ended up as a whole cloth quilter. And here's her story.
Deb Maguire
I lived in America for a while with my job, and I was surrounded in New England by beautiful quilts. And I thought I would love to take a quilt home, because at that stage, like many British quilters, actually I thought it was an American tradition. And in my head, having an American quilt that I would take home would be this sort of memory of my time in America. So I bid on what I thought was going to be a quilt to take home from my bed. But because I knew nothing about quilts or quilting at that point, the, the terminology was that it was a quilt top. So it was a 1930s, very classic kind of American style, little butterflies feed sack fabric. So fabrics reused from kind of keeping grain in and, and flour in. So it was really evocative of kind of Americana. And I thought it'd be a lovely thing to take home. And then I spent quite a lot of money on it, more than I had. And when the quilt came to me, it wasn't a quilt. The word quilt top just means the top layer. So there was nothing in between, no quilting stitches through it. And the thing that I loved already was the quilting stitches. And so I heartbroken. And so when I got back to the uk, I thought, I'll quilt it. You know, this. How hard can this be? Shocking. A shocking thought, as it turned out. So I managed to. And this was kind of before social media and the early days of the Internet, you know, kind of 2000, 1999. And I. I managed to find a local quilt shop which had a really generous patron. And she basically explained to me what quilting was and how he did it and sold me a hoop and a pair of thimbles and a spool of thr. And so my investment then was very modest, but it did take me two years to quilt that quilt. And it became very quickly a complete labor of love. So I think partly because I was completely unexposed to the world of patchwork, which is most people's normal route into these sorts of things. So I had no kind of understanding or even really desire to sew bits of fabric together at that stage. I was purely quilting this quilt. And so therefore my whole kind of immersion was in the really simple production of these stitches, quilting stitches. And because I did it for two years, I got quite fast. You know, I had this huge expanse to cover. I was teaching myself. And so I started kind of seeking out examples of quilts in British museums. I started at the American Museum in Bath because they were American quilts, and I thought there were only American quilts. And then from there I kind of followed this trail, which really at that stage was through libraries and, you know, looking at quilt books. And occasionally a quilt book would mention a quilt in the UK in a collection, and so I would start trying to find pictures or go and see examples of quilts in the uk. And the more quilts I looked at and they didn't look like the quilt I had or the ones in the American Museum. They looked like their own thing. And very often they were whole cloth quilts. And so whole cloth quilts for people who aren't quilters and were discovering it in the way that I did, they're basically the quilters quilt. So rather than there being any patchwork at all, they are just an expansive fabric on the top, an expansive fabric on the back, and wadding in between. And all of the design and the kind of beauty and the pattern, the complexity comes just from the stitch line. And so it started this real obsession with the quilting that appeared in the past, and the difficulty in accessing that and finding out about it is something that has really fueled everything else that I've done. So, you know, if you ask to see quilts, people show you patchwork. If you ask people quilting, they talk about patchwork. And I was the person who would go and see a quilt in a museum and then want to look at the back so that I could see what the quilting lines look like, because I didn't care about the front, as we would call it today. I cared about the texture. And from that, really, everything else has flowed. I had a little blog at that point, and I called it plain stitch. And I called it plain stitch because whenever you go back into kind of old technical books about embroidery and quilting in the past, they always talk about this distinction between embroidery, fancy stitching and plain stitching. And plain stitching was the kind of poor relation, although there's a lovely description in. In one book where they talk about it as. So plain stitching is not the Cinderella of the needle, for it can do what embroidery never can do. It can hold materials together. And I thought plain stitching is really the magic. How can it be that just this functional stitch can create all of this beauty when it appears in these different lines and. And different patterns? And something about the kind of humbleness and the sort of understatedness of the idea that it's the plain stitch that then creates this kind of sculpture rather than, you know, kind of fancy stitching and all of the kind of baggage that comes with embroidery and, you know, and kind of stitching in that way. I really like the idea that what I was kind of engaging in was something quite utilitarian, but that output of that turned into something that was unexpectedly beautiful. And so I think when people think about whole cloth quilts and they think about, you know, their. Their role and their place in the kind of, you know, world of the history of quilt making, you know, what you're really having to do is think about what those quilts were doing for the people that made them. And I think when you then kind of come to it from that angle, you then end up with this completely different history. And that's, you know, like what Jess and I have really been, you know, kind of started out talking about the idea about quilting as process is about a thing that you do rather than about a quilt as an object. And once you kind of start following that thread, you end up somewhere really different.
Jess Bailey
Do indeed. And Jess, you're a Californian, definitely not a north country British girl. So how on earth did you get involved in this?
I come from a quilting family. My father's family is from the American south. And I grew up under a full bed size but birth quilt, which three of my great aunts made from family clothes in their trailer homes in the South. And this quilt was hand quilted. And so I have all of these memories of sleeping under it, spreading it out on my bed, playing with our dog. On was a quilt that was very much lived with across my childhood. When I came to make quilts as an adult living in the uk, I was here for work, I was teaching, and I started making quilts. And because of this, this, you know, intense sense memory of the quilt that I grew up with, the quilt that was made, you know, to emphasize family kinship to me as a little girl, there was sort of no thought in my mind that I would ever machine quilt a quilt, because to me, that was not what a quilt was. And so I started hand quilting the quilts that I was making. Being an art historian and being someone, you know, obsessed with the deep past and also someone who has a deep, an enduring trust of the past, I think I, you know, started digging into regional archives and, you know, online museum catalogs and flipping through library books, as Deb says, you know, and sort of going to these older publications and seeing, you know, starting to see all of these images of mostly women sitting or standing at quilt frames. And I was like, of course, if you're going to quilt for the bits of time you have around your life, sitting on the couch in the evening, your hands are going to become very sore. And of course, people have thought of solutions for this. This is not how one actually does this practice. I think I started looking more for where could I obtain a frame. Really found that there was no one making quilt frames in the uk and while I could find frames for sale in the US from kind of inherited sort of families where there was no more quilter and they were selling the quilt frame, I really, for, for, you know, love of money or anything, could not find a quilt frame in the uk and eventually, you know, was very grateful to come across a young quilter who purchased a quilt frame from a Welsh family. It had been made in that family she was no longer using it. And so she was willing to sell me this quilt frame. And I was so excited that I did not ask for measurements. I just said, yes, I want it, Please, I need this. I can't make another a bed quilt without a quilt frame. And thankfully, by, you know, a mere sort of inch of space, it fit in a very small room in my London flat. And I, you know, as Deb was describing, I just sort of fell in love with this, this way of making a quilt where you could really walk up to it, do a few stitches, and then go back to whatever complicated, you know, life reality was happening in the other room. You know, there's something about a quilt frame that just kind of waits for you to be ready to work at it. It sort of never occurred to me to make a quilt in any other way. There's something about that tactility and that. That engagement with your hands at every stage of the process that gives me a deep amount of peace in making a quilt.
Deb, when you started Whole Piece quilting, this wasn't quite a dead craft in Britain. And I'm really intrigued as to who your community was of other Whole Piece Quilters. Who were the people out there that you could reach? I mean, you were a mother of young children. Were the other mothers of young children. Were there other people in your generation or were you looking to another generation?
Deb Maguire
I was just really lucky because I happened to come across, in my kind of local area, a retired curator, Margaret Paul Townley, who was the curator at Goldsmiths of their textile collection in the 1970s and 80s and early 90s. And she worked with the embroiderer Constance Howard. And she's also an embroiderer. So, you know, but these were women who were pioneers in kind of taking, you know, the understanding of textiles into, you know, sort of education and museum kind of practice. And someone had given her a quilt frame in the 1970s. It come from their grandmother in Wales, and she had kept it in her house and attic and, you know, generations, it sat there. But she wasn't a quilter. And she'd come across my work and I'd interacted with her and she said that said, you seem like the perfect person to have this quilt frame. And it really was just one of those kind of life changing moments, actually. It was a sort of meeting of minds, but also just this sort of handing over of really of a baton. And I took the quilt frame, but she wasn't a quilter and there wasn't somebody to learn from and so I went back to those library books, books written in the 1930s, 1950s. They were the first sort of point where women had, you know, access to, of publishing accounts of domestic making really at that stage. And the women who did that, you know, they were, you know, kind of elite women. So there's all sorts of issues around, you know, the accounts that they gave us. But what they gave us was this thread, you know, this history. And so by going back to those books, I could learn how to load a quilt frame. But obviously in doing that, I was searching for people making quilts in frames today. And that's how Jess and I met. Because, you know, Jess was the only other person that I could find on the Internet in Britain who was working in a quilt frame.
Jess Bailey
You telling me that you two are the last two people working quilt frames in Britain?
Deb Maguire
We're not. And the whole lovely thing about that is that, you know, everything else that we've done since then has been about building this community, is finding all the other people who are sitting out there thinking, I seem to be the only person left doing this. And it turns out there's lots of us and we're all in our own little kind of connection. So there are people working within sort of heritage inspired quilting groups, so groups of friends, older women that have been sewing together for a long time in places like Wales, skills. There are older women in places like the north country who still benefited from a kind of transference of this knowledge that, that occurred into the 1970s and the 1980s. I mean, the way we have to kind of think about this is almost like there's a, a kind of thread running through it, like a baton being passed. And the point where there's not someone there to take the baton is when it gets dropped and it disappears. There's still this tentative of connection going back that we're still able to make, but only just so that the women who learned from the women who learned from the women who Learned from the 1900s, those women are, are elderly now. I'm thinking of a woman who I was speaking to just after Christmas, who she's now in her 80s, probably in the later part of that decade, and she's no longer really able to get about very much. And I've had the complete pleasure of a sort of telephone relationship with her over the last 18 months as we' been exploring this project. And you know, her health has declined over that period. And so when we've been speaking, you know, she felt like that she had outlived the interest in the skill that she has. And so being able to tell her about these networks, about the work we're doing and about the people who are interested in this and, and talking about how, you know, that where we want to, you know, celebrate her work has been so important. You know, we've also been talking to the families of quilters who past. And that's also been extremely powerful. Talking to children and grandchildren of women who, you know, were absolutely celebrated in their time within their family and friend networks, but that never received any kind of public recognition outside of that. And, you know, and that's also been really powerful. So, for example, we've been talking to the, the kind of elderly grandsons of a woman who was a prize winning quilter in the 1940s. We've been able to track down newspaper clippings about her work. Work, and they've been, you know, noticeably, you know, moved by the fact that people are interested in their grandmother because, you know, this is the difference between public history and private history. People understand within their families and communities and networks that somebody is important and the work they do is culturally important. But unless public history is connected to those histories, then we don't see what's important to people. We have a privileged position in the sense that we're able to come and say we come from these organizations and we're reaching out because we want to know about this and we want other people to know about it. You know, it has a really important and powerful effect on how families understand the histories that they've been keeping. And it also changes the way that those objects are available to public history as well. The archive of the woman that we're talking about, whose grandsons we were able to speak to, that archive has been collected by a museum, the Quilters Guild Collection now. And, and that is, you know, these cardboard boxes, which effectively came from the loft of somebody's house. House that are literally like a kind of sedimentary layers of patterns that go right the way back through the 1950s, the 40s, the 30s, interspersed with all the things that you'd imagine that you would just toss into a box. You know, certificates, prize winning communications about classes. And so, you know, being able to kind of map that back and being able to make sure that those pieces of ephemera, but that are such important ephemera get taken and, and understood as being historical documents is also a really important part of the kind of validation. It's personal, but it's also public. It's, it's institutional that the networks we we keep coming back to this saying about. It's about networks, it's about people, you know, but what's really important about those networks is about. It's about validation. It's about saying, this was an important skill. It can still be an important skill today. And by. By keeping the technicalities around this, you know, the. The tools, the practice, the history, the stories, you know, by keeping those stories alive, then that's the kind of. Of framework that the. That the skill exists within and without all of those things, it dies, you know, and so we need. We really need to make sure that people understand the stories, but that also that they're able to access things like tools in order to enact their own place in this kind of succession.
Jess Bailey
Yes. That brings me really nicely to the fact that I think we can now buy a quilting frame in Britain thanks to your and Deb's work. So if you would very nicely tell me about that, that would wonderful.
Well, you know, as we've been saying, the lifeblood of hand quilting is the tools that make it possible.
Deb Maguire
Right.
Jess Bailey
Every art form has its incredibly beautifully developed, specified tools, and there is nothing like working with the right tool for the job.
Deb Maguire
Right.
Jess Bailey
It took us a while and through some luck, to purchase quilt frames in the uk and both of our quilt frames come from, you know, families where they were made by someone in the family or, you know, the local butcher and then were inherited. And eventually the tool outlived the quilters in that family, and they came to us. But we really wanted to make sure that this key piece of the puzzle, the tools that a quilter needs, were much more readily available again in the uk. So we looked through a lot of Deb's historical research into, well, you know, what were other moments when quilting in a frame was taken up very seriously as a practice that needed to be sustained. We looked a lot into Elizabeth Hake's 1937 book, English Quilting Old and New, which has a wonderful diagram for a quilt frame. And, you know, Deb thought really carefully about how could we learn from the really intelligent humbleness of how quilt frames were made. Right. That quilt frame is actually not a complicated thing. It's not an expensive thing. And, you know, what if we took that historical knowledge to a contemporary furniture designer and carpenter? So we found a really wonderful, skilled individual named James Torbal, and Deb worked really closely with him in his studio to reconstruct a version of a quilt frame that could be, you know, made for a very reasonable price and which we could Basically get back on the market for quilt quilters to purchase again. So as of today, you can buy a quilt frame in the uk.
Forgive my ignorance, but if I live in America or Canada or Australia, can I buy quilt frames there?
You can, but I think you might want to go to James. James has really produced a very beautiful version of, you know, this core historical object that it really doesn't need updating, it doesn't need changing. It's been like this for hundreds of years. And a very functional, very collapsible, you know, four pieces of wood. And there's something, I think, incredibly beautiful about a simple, excellently made tool.
I know how tactile these things can be. My own weaving loom is made of Canadian maple and I couldn't imagine being without a weaving loom in the house. It isn't a home without a weaving loom. And Debs, I know that the best thing of all we've kept for last, which is that I don't know whether to call it whole piece quilting, I think is the best word, is now going on to the red list of endangered crafts. And please, could you just say a little bit about that?
Deb Maguire
Well, it's an absolutely overwhelming announcement to be able to make really for us because we have, have spent the last 18 months living and breathing this application. So we are delighted to announce that the skill has been accepted to the red list of endangered craft, which is a UNESCO recognized register of intangible culture which is at risk. And the way that the skill has been defined is rocking stitch in a flat frame. And so the idea being that what we're preserving here is the process of making quilts. So there are lots of people making quilts in lots of other ways, and they're all really important too. But what sits at the root of this is this specific partnership of the skill of the stitch and the, and the, and the stability of the frame. And when those two things come together, as Jess has described, you know what this, what we're really preserving here is the pinnacle. It's the evolution of how you stitch and then how the tool holds the quilt for you. And those two things together is really the crux of it. And what that means for us. Why does that matter, matter? It matters so much to us because we are passionate advocates for this skill. But what we, what we know is going to mean a lot to other people. And really the whole of this process was really about making sure that there was the structures in place that would mean that it doesn't take two passionate People who love hand quilting to keep this alive into the next generation. But the. The organization, the structures, the funding, the, the, the power, you know, that sits around the keeping of these things alive was in place for our skill. The Red List means that you are then able to. Or people who are interested in using these skills and developing these tools are able to access things like funding, they're able to access networks. So one of the things that they asked us to do was to what does thriving look like? You know, what does a skill that is thriving look like? And obviously that's led us into things like, know, creating the frames. It's also led us to, you know, wonderful trips to places like small flock mills, where we've been looking at, you know, the texture of wool. Because, you know, the other thing about the frame, which is so important is that it's ecological. It allowed people to use all different substrates of fabric. It allowed them to use wool that hadn't been processed. So modern quilters are reliant on all of these sorts of processes that happen to the. The fibers that they use in order to make it possible to quilt without a frame. If you put the frame back in, you take away the need for all of the additional processes that mean that things have to get shipped and, you know, things done. Done to them in factories, etc, and instead it connects quilters back to the land and the place where they are. Use your scraps, visit your farmer, you know, collect some wool from a barbed wire fence. It was as simple as that. And it can be as simple as that again. And of course, not everybody is going to choose to quilt in that way, but the freedom to have that as part of your practice is so important to this. It also gives visibility, viability, and we really hope that, you know, what we're doing with this work. It's called Heritage Crafts, the organization that create the Red List. But the heritageness is really just about giving the freedom to modern makers today to understand from the past and then reinvent these skills. Skills. You know, Jess and I both work with young people. You know, we work with people who are really creative. And, you know, what we want them to be able to do is to continue this craft on, you know, what we've been describing is something which evolved and changed over time. A whole cloth quilt did not look the same in 1930s. It did in 1850 as it did in 1700. These were people creating new ideas and making new interpretations of the craft. And what the Heritage Craft Red List will enable. Enable people to do is to Continue that process. Young makers, artists, people wanting to make this skill commercial again. They'll all have access to skills, advice, and funding that will enable them to develop that practice. And so, whilst we're historians and art historians, we're interested in the past. What we're really interested in doing is, is connecting people to the past in order to make the future. You know, what does the future look like? And we really want. Want this red listing to enable people to explore ways to use the practice, to think about the kinds of values that quilting was associated with in the past as well. You know, when we think about quilting in the past, it's about communality, it's about creativity without a lot of commerce. And it's about care and kind of care practices, community care, family care, people working together with friends and neighbors and community groups. And I think, you know, when we return, turn the modern creativity of quilting back to the same sorts of tools and processes in the past. What also comes with that is all of those kind of care values. And so what we hope is that people are able to use the frames, use the funding, find ways to come together and reconvene around the quilt frame in ways that build community, that are careful of the environment, you know, that enable people to make quilts in ways that support all of the connection that quilts are really just the manifestation of. You know, when we think about a quilt as an object, and we talked at the beginning about quilters and not quilts, when we think about a quilt as an object, all it's really doing is telling us about this huge iceberg beneath it, which is about networks and friendships and family and your neighbors and the place where you live and your care of the land and the objects that you make and how they pass through generations. You know, these are all about. About much bigger things than just the practices of making. But those practices are manifestations of our emotional world, aren't they? And what we really hope is that if people are making quilts again in the future using these tools and in these ways, that we also get to do some work in that area, too.
Jess Bailey
Jess, where do you hope this will lead, and what would you like the listeners to do?
I really hope that this will lead to sustainable intergenerational knowledge transfer at the level of the hand, but also at the level of the intellect. And combining those two things, right, the mind and the hand, in terms of, you know, if we sustain intergenerational knowledge transfer around the material and physical skill of hand quilting, we also draw out those histories from those communities, from those families. Right. And we shift the priorities then of, of whose histories we're writing down and telling and whose knowledge gets valued as authoritative and meaningful in a historical record. Right. So I see this as a way forward for both of those things, how we write history and how we make quilts. To that, I would really love if listeners would go and enjoy a recent lecture which Deb and I gave together that's available for free on YouTube. You can find it via our website, which is is within the frame.co.uk There's a lot of different resources there both for the history of quilting, the practice of hand quilting, and of course, links to the Hake quilting frame from James, if you would like to order a quilt frame. But on one of our resource pages is this recent lecture which Deb and I gave together at the Paul Mellon center for British Art. It's Yale's center for the Study of British Art here in the uk and they run wonderful public programming and lectures. And we recently gave a history history lecture about quilting in the uk And I think it shares some of these really rich histories, family histories, community histories from Wales and the north country especially. You know, that lecture has many of the images that Deb and I were referencing about, you know, quilters sitting at frames, working at frames. So I really encourage everyone to go find that recent lecture via our website within the Frame Frame.
Deb Maguire
Great.
Jess Bailey
Thank you both very much. It was lovely to talk to you both.
Jo Andrews
You can find details on how to buy your own handmade quilting frame from James Torbull and links to Jess and Deb's website, which is called within the Frame, as well as pictures of some of the antique quilts and quilters of days gone past. On the webpage for this episode episode of Friends of Haptic and Hue. I should also say that we did make an episode of Haptic and Hu, which looked at the entire background and history of Whole Cloth quilts. And that's called Whole Cloth from the Hills North Country Quilts. And it's episode 21, if anyone is interested in having a listen to it.
Bill Taylor
Whole Cloth from the Hills. That has a certain poetry resonance about it. Whole Cloth from the Hills. A little taste now of what's coming up in the coming months on the Haptic and Hugh podcast and on Tales of Textiles. Thanks to you and your ideas, our dear listeners, our travels get ever more exotic and from my point of view, ever more interesting. Coming up is the truly astonishing story of how a newly commissioned tartan is being used to memorialize, to remember, and to celebrate the thousands of women who were tragically executed and harassed as witches in not only the history of Scotland, but, crucially, in the history of the usa. And that is an astonishing story. And very shortly, a couple of days after recording this Tales of Textile, Joe and I are off to Denmark and Norway. And among the things there, we'll be looking at the center for Textile Research in Copenhagen, and we'll be exploring the idea of why it is that indulging in craft, practicing craft, might be very healthy for us, very good for our brains, very good for our whole neurological functioning. And craft practitioners just have known this in their gut and, crucially, in their hands for all of their lives, I suspect. And we're off to Norway, to what is thought to be the wettest place in Europe, Bergen, to catch up with some research about how people in the Arctic used a whole range of, to my mind, bizarre textiles to keep dry and to keep warm. So watch this space for these exciting stories, and thanks again for all of your wonderful ideas. Please keep listening, and I hope that wherever you are, your love of textiles keeps you warm and happy and hopeful.
Jo Andrews
And enjoy whatever making you were doing at the moment. It's goodbye from me.
Bill Taylor
And it's goodbye from me.
Podcast Summary: Haptic & Hue – "Reviving Rocking Stitch and Saving Wholecloth Quilting"
Introduction
In the surprise extra episode of Haptic & Hue's Tales of Textiles, host Jo Andrews and guest Bill Taylor delve into the rich history and current state of whole cloth quilting. Released on July 3, 2025, this episode explores the recognition of whole cloth quilting as a critically endangered craft by UNESCO and the Heritage Crafts Council. Jo Andrews introduces the special episode, highlighting the importance of community support through memberships and the absence of advertisements to maintain the podcast's integrity.
The Significance of Whole Cloth Quilting
Whole cloth quilting, recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage, is a traditional British craft with roots dating back to the 16th century. Unlike patchwork quilts that combine various fabric pieces, whole cloth quilts use a single piece of fabric for the top layer, emphasizing intricate quilting stitches to create complex patterns.
Jo Andrews explains:
"Whole cloth quilting makes very little play of the fabrics that are used for the top... It focuses on what happens with the quilting stitches and what kind of patterns are made with those."
(00:08:45)
The Efforts of Deb Maguire and Jess Bailey
Deb Maguire and Jess Bailey have been pivotal in advocating for the preservation of whole cloth quilting. Their 18-month campaign successfully placed whole cloth quilting on the red list of endangered crafts in the UK and secured its status on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list.
Bill Taylor remarks:
"This is really the most incredible achievement by Deb Maguire and Jess Bailey."
(00:06:29)
Deb's Journey into Whole Cloth Quilting
Deb Maguire shares her personal journey, detailing how her initial attempt to quilt an American-style quilt led her to discover and develop a passion for whole cloth quilting.
Deb Maguire narrates:
"I managed to find a local quilt shop... It did take me two years to quilt that quilt. And it became very quickly a complete labor of love."
(00:10:09)
She emphasizes the beauty derived from the simplicity of plain quilting stitches and the deep emotional connection to the craft.
Revival of Quilting Frames in the UK
One critical aspect of preserving whole cloth quilting is ensuring the availability of quilting frames. Deb and Jess discovered that quilting frames were no longer being manufactured in the UK. Through historical research and collaboration with furniture designer James Torbal, they successfully reconstructed and introduced affordable, high-quality quilting frames back into the market.
Jess Bailey highlights:
"James has really produced a very beautiful version of this core historical object... It's been like this for hundreds of years."
(00:29:11)
This revival allows quilters in the UK and beyond to continue the tradition using authentic tools.
The Importance of Community and Networks
Deb and Jess underline the significance of building a supportive community to sustain whole cloth quilting. They have connected with remaining quilters, archived family histories, and ensured that personal and public histories intersect to validate and preserve the craft.
Deb Maguire notes:
"It's about validation. It's about saying, this was an important skill. It can still be an important skill today."
(00:21:55)
Their efforts have not only preserved the technical aspects of quilting but also the emotional and communal values associated with it.
The Cultural and Emotional Significance of Quilting
Whole cloth quilting is portrayed not just as a craft but as a manifestation of deeper emotional and communal networks. The process embodies values of communality, creativity without heavy commercialization, and care practices that strengthen community bonds and connections to the land.
Deb Maguire explains:
"Quilting is really just the manifestation of... networks and friendships and family and your neighbors and the place where you live and your care of the land."
(00:26:41)
Future Aspirations and Call to Action
Looking forward, Deb and Jess aim to ensure sustainable intergenerational knowledge transfer, allowing both the hands-on skills and the intellectual histories to be passed down. They encourage listeners to engage with available resources, such as their free lecture on YouTube, and to consider supporting the craft through purchasing quilting frames or becoming members of the Haptic & Hue community.
Jess Bailey urges:
"I really encourage everyone to go find that recent lecture via our website within the Frame."
(00:36:19)
Conclusion
The episode concludes with Jo Andrews and Bill Taylor expressing gratitude to Deb and Jess for their invaluable contributions to preserving whole cloth quilting. They tease upcoming episodes that will explore other fascinating textile stories, emphasizing the ongoing mission to celebrate and sustain the myriad ways textiles shape and reflect human history and community.
Jo Andrews summarizes:
"Enjoy whatever making you were doing at the moment. It's goodbye from me."
(00:41:14)
Notable Quotes
Jo Andrews (00:08:45): "Whole cloth quilting is something that was completely functional and very beautiful. And we know we can prove that it dates back to the 1500s."
Deb Maguire (00:15:59): "It's about validation. It's about saying, this was an important skill. It can still be an important skill today."
Jess Bailey (00:26:56): "Everything else that we've done since then has been about building this community, finding all the other people who are sitting out there thinking, I seem to be the only person left doing this."
Additional Resources
Listeners interested in exploring more about whole cloth quilting can access the dedicated lecture by Deb and Jess on YouTube via the Haptic & Hue website, order historic quilt frames through James Torbal, and listen to the detailed episode "Whole Cloth from the Hills North Country Quilts" (Episode 21) for an in-depth look at the history and significance of whole cloth quilts.
For more information and to support the preservation efforts, visit www.hapticonhue.com.