
Tapestries for Troubled Times The stitches of the Bayeux Tapestry fix the story of the Norman Conquest of England in our imaginations in an extraordinarily charismatic way. But nearly a thousand years later modern stitchers are picking up their...
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Jo Andrews
Nearly a thousand years ago, a group of women were gathered together to stitch the story of the Norman Conquest of England. Almost everyone knows the work of art they made over years of labor. The Bayer Tapestry is recognized by UNESCO as a memory of the world. And it's come to define in stitch an age and a stool. It survives miraculously to this day in northern France in the little town of Bayeux, and it's rightly celebrated. But few think about the Anglo Saxon women who made it, women who came from the families of the defeated and the desperate age of change and deep uncertainty that they faced.
Michael Lewis
We've got a group of women essentially, that are coming together that might have had quite individual experiences, experiences of the Norman Conquest, and those experiences might be quite varied. Maybe their husbands even got killed in the Battle of Hastings or their sons or other people, and they would be reflecting upon that, I guess, as they were creating this work of art. I think they would have quite interesting conversations. Whether it helped them make sense of it, I don't really know, but it certainly would probably trigger quite a lot of different emotions, I would have thought, wouldn't it? And, you know, maybe there was an element where speaking to other people was. Was helpful to a degree as well, but I guess that a lot of them would have had a similar sort of experience of. Of the Norman Conquest, what had happened to their families, and then maybe their kind of fears or hopes for what the future might bring.
Jo Andrews
Michael Lewis is a member of the Bayeux Tapestry Scientific Committee and co author with David Musgrove of a recent book on the tapestry. And I'm Jo Andrews, the host of Haptic and Hughes. Tales of Textiles. And this episode, the first of season seven, is about the power of stitch to define our histories and to tell and retell our stories, particularly in ages of profound change and uncertainty. As many know, the Bayer Tapestry is not a tapestry, a tool, but an embroidery. It got stuck with its name by a French monk called Bernard de Montfaucon in 1729 when he published engravings of the work and called it a tapisserie. Sadly, it got stuck. And ever since, it's been the Bayeux Tapestry. Even though it's unlikely to have been made in Bayeux, the more or less settled thinking is that it was commissioned by Bishop Odo, half brother to the victor of the Battle of Hastings, William, Duke of Normandy, the new King of England. Odo was both Bishop of Bayeux and the newly created Duke of Kent. The thought is that the tapestry was stitched in or close to Canterbury in Kent.
Michael Lewis
It Seems that the Bayer tapestry designers have been influenced by Canterbury, produced manuscript art, or at least manuscript art that was in Canterbury. And so there's a suggestion, which I believe, that the tapestry designer had access to the libraries of both St. Augustine's and Christchurch at Canterbury, or manuscripts based in those. Now, there is another problem with that, in that Canterbury is probably one of the best preserved archives in terms of the books produced there. So maybe we have a bias in the information that leads us to go to Canterbury, but nonetheless, there's a couple of scenes within the Bayer tapestry that almost seem to be directly borrowed from Canterbury manuscripts.
Jo Andrews
We will never know exactly who the stitchers were or what they thought, but the tapestry they made allows us imaginatively to reach back to them and the age they lived in. The tapestry is stitched on linen and worked in wool dyed with plants. A lot of scholars thought it might have been created by nuns. But Michael Lewis says that at that time, embroidery skills were far more widespread.
Michael Lewis
But when you look at the historical sources that talk about embroiderers and people doing this sort of work in the late Anglo Saxon period, into the Anglo Norman period, they talk a lot about aristocratic women. Not to say that aristocratic women made the bare tapestry, but they were certainly doing embroidery and other sorts of textile works. But they also talk about people, you know, on an everyday basis producing garments and materials. And if you look at late Anglo Saxon society, that makes a lot of sense, doesn't it, really, that people are making their own clothes. They would probably learn a lot of the techniques that go with that in terms of embroidery as well. They talk about people making garments for other people, which tend to be high status people, but you could see that that would kind of sink right through the whole strata, really. So I think the pool of women that potentially could have worked on the bear tapestry could be quite large in some respects. And some people have said, well, you know, how experienced were they and how expert were they? And a few other things that can potentially be gleaned looking at the embroidery work itself and the skill needed to do that. Now, if any of us were plucked out of the out there and asked to do a bit of embroidery work, and I've done some myself, you're not very good to start with, are you? But. But I think it is something that a lot of people could potentially be quite good at with some training and some time, and I think a lot of Anglo Saxon women would have had that naturally in the course of their lives.
Jo Andrews
There have also been thoughts about the age of the Embroiderers Other things people.
Michael Lewis
Talk about, which I think are really quite interesting, is in terms of how good is your eyesight and what impact does that have on creating textile works? So, ie, are these mostly likely to be younger women than older women? Potentially. Also, what sort of time of the day is best for embroidery? For example, in the winter, is it really a good place to be embroidering inside a house when it could have been quite dark and all you've got is the fire? Maybe this is a thing that you would do outside when the light is natural. And I think there's kind of quite interesting things here in terms of the mechanics, the. As well as the people that may have produced this. So, in short, I see these as probably what we might call secular people predominantly being brought in to work on this project, probably through kind of different sort of local connections, based on them having a level of expertise saying that when you look at the Bay Tapestry, it's fairly clear that there are some embroiderers who are better than others. Probably.
Jo Andrews
We also don't know how they were recruited or persuaded to carry out this work.
Michael Lewis
What basis were they there? You know, had they been sort of picked out and invited to come and produce this lovely tapestry that was going to tell the history of the Norman Conquest and make everybody feel much better about it all afterwards, or were they sort of wrought by the cuff and neck to say, right, you're doing this. Get on with it. So I suppose that might make a slight difference in terms of how they engage with this project. Maybe they were just grateful, of course, that they were getting kind of a good income as well in terms of producing this work.
Jo Andrews
Clare Hunter has worked as a community stitcher. She's also the author of the much loved book Threads of Life, in which she writes about the Bayer Tapestry. She says that for the women's stitchers, there would have been an emotional side to the work, but also a. A physical one.
Clare Hunter
They would have had an overseer overseeing their work. They were working with difficult materials. You know, wool yarn, for those that use it, know it's actually a very difficult yarn to use because it snags when you work with it.
Michael Lewis
It's.
Clare Hunter
It's tricky. It breaks in the needle's eye. And they were only using four colors, so they were very limited palette, might have had other shades attached to those colors. Only four stitches. And trying to express the whole story of what led up to the Battle of Hastings and then eventually the ghastly aftermath of the defeat in all this incredible river of narrative that they made in just those four stitches with their four colours. And so they had to really think very hard about how to capture the pounding of a horse's hoofs. So all those things were technically difficult. And practically, of course, they'd be sitting for hours and hours and hours over long tables. The way they sewed, they would have one hand underneath a frame, the other hand on top. Repetitive strain injury must have been something that they experienced. So I think all that would have made it arduous. I think it would have been a difficult task and, of course, it would have taken years.
Jo Andrews
On the other hand, they had the solidarity of sitting together.
Clare Hunter
And what I think is interesting is in the biotapestry, while we've got over 200 horses, over 600 men, over 500 other animals, we actually only have six women. And those six women are depicted as being smaller than any of the other figures in the tapestry. So it is thought, and I do believe this, that the women inserted those images covertly and basically put in these tiny, small cameos of what their own experience was. And that's where we get to the kind of emotional sense of what it was like for those women to sow, because what they were having to revisit was their own trauma in terms of that battle, in terms of defeat and sewing it down, sewing down their own dead and wounded soldiers, their own men folk, and sowing their own places that had been decimated. So emotionally, I think it must have been very heartbreaking at times for them to depict what was there. But then, as I say, they put these tiny images. A woman holding the. The hand of her son fleeing from a burning house, another woman being advanced upon by a man with right penis suggests rape. Different kinds of images that would have been dangerous, but which they were determined to put in some evidence of their own personal testimony of what their experience was like. So in that sense, you've got this sense of a different kind of camaraderie between the women themselves, saying, yes, let's do that, let's put in that image. He won't see it, the overseer won't notice it, but at least our story will live on. So you've got the emotional heartbreak of what they were showing and the emotional defiance of what they were then inserting themselves.
Jo Andrews
Michael and others believe the tapestry was started around 1070 and it was commissioned by Bishop Odo at a time when the Normans still believed that the English would welcome them.
Michael Lewis
When William, Duke of Normandy, came over and became king, he believed himself that the English would embrace him. He felt that that was the natural thing that was going to happen. He'd been promised, in his view, the kingdom of England, and when that didn't quite happen, he uses these various tactics, really, to try and bring the Anglo Saxons inside. Sometimes he befriends them, sometimes he punishes them. And you can see these different activities at play, which obviously happens nowadays in a modern political environment as well.
Jo Andrews
And Odo's tapestry is part of that play. It's an attempt to tell the story of the conquest in a balanced way that tries to do justice to both sides. It's a piece of political storytelling, trying to get the conquered to accept their fate.
Michael Lewis
I think what's interesting about the Bayer tapestry is the story is not one of triumphalism, really. In a way, it's clear obviously, what happens in the Bayer tapestry. It's not kind of mixing its words, you know, it kind of shows that the Normans beating Harold at the Battle of Hastings and the events leading up to that sort of result happening, if you like. But there are things in the tapestry which are much more balanced, I think, when you look at some of the other sources. So if you read the typical Norman sources, they're really, really championing William in particular and the Normans in general, at the expense of the Anglo Saxons. And you don't really get that in the Bayer tapestry in quite the same sort of way. It's a bit more of a balanced account, I think, of those. Those years.
Jo Andrews
But the problem for Bishop Odo was that about the time he commissioned his tapestry, William realised that his softly, softly approach didn't work. And to survive, he had to be much tougher.
Michael Lewis
But then he sort of snaps and he's had enough of these Anglo Saxons. And from about the late 1060s, early 1070s, his regime is more of one of oppression rather than trying to work with the Anglo Saxons. And also, I suppose what's really important about this period is there's an assumption that William came over, you know, beat Harold at the Battle of Hastings, became crown king at Christmas Day 1066, and everybody just said, okay, thanks very much, we've got a new king, let's just kind of relax now. But that's exactly not what happened. There was kind of rebellions, you know, all through pretty much William's reign, some of them very destabilising. And now, of course, we know that, you know, that William was able to keep the crown and it was passed on to his sons and onwards. But that wasn't. I don't think Any means certain in 1066 or 1070s, when the Bayer Tapestry potentially could have been made.
Jo Andrews
And that left Bishop Odo with a problem, one that is ultimately vital to the survival of the tapestry.
Michael Lewis
It's kind of interesting that you've got the beat upstream being produced with a more nuanced and balanced version of history in a period where that sort of goes out of the window. And, you know, Odo's basically told, well, this doesn't really work with the new political reality. You can't really use it in the way you thought. So perhaps it could have been, you know, while Odo was establishing himself in Kent and the Normans were establishing themselves throughout the country, that this object would have been tored to various places and somebody would have presented in front of it and said, well, this is what happened, and Harold wasn't that bad. But, you know, you've got William now. And that all just didn't really work later in as you went into the 1070s. So Odo sort of left with this thing to think, well, what do I do with it? And that's probably why it gets presented to Bayer Cathedral. Then it may be changed from something that had a purpose to something that is more like a gift, I guess, that kind of recounts, if you like, his life in terms of the Norman Conquest. That's my kind of working theory at the moment in terms of the purpose of the Bayer Tapestry.
Jo Andrews
And down the ages, the tapestry, as a slightly puzzling gift, stayed more or less safely in Bayeux, brought out only on special occasions, allowing it to survive nearly a thousand years. Claire Hunter believes its continuing emotional power lies in the fact that it's a tactile narrative.
Clare Hunter
It was really interesting when, in the thing with the 19th century, they sent over an artist to draw the biotapestry in its entirety for the London Society of Antiquaries. And when they actually got the drawings back, brilliant though they were, they didn't capture the essence of the tapestry. And so basically they made a mold of it. Now, the only reason they could have done that was in order to capture its textural presence, its three dimensionality and stitching afforded it, because it's in that that lies its emotional potency.
Jo Andrews
Clare understands the power of stitching very well. She's one of over a thousand stitchers who's helped to create a modern tapestry that has just the same kind of charismatic impact as the Bayeux Tapestry. Its scope is much bigger than the tale of a battle. Instead, it reframes the story of an entire nation 10,000 years of history in more than 160 beautifully worked linen panels. The Great Tapestry of Scotland is the biggest community arts project ever undertaken in Scotland.
Alasdair Moffat
I often talk about the music of this thing. You could walk around this tapestry and if you listen really close, you can hear its music. And that music is played by women, completely played by women. And that makes it a unique cultural artifact, in my view, and something that Scotland badly needed and now it's got it.
Jo Andrews
That's the historian and author Alasdair Moffat, who was one among many who played a major role in bringing the girl Great Tapestry of Scotland into being. One of the wonderful things about this modern tapestry, which exercises just the same kind of hold on those who see it as the Bayeux Tapestry, is that we have a wealth of information about how it was created and who made it. Alastair got involved when he was rung up by best selling Scottish author Alexander McCall Smith, who asked him to go and have a look at a tapestry on show in Edinburgh, which was about the Battle of Preston Pans.
Alasdair Moffat
And I thought, tapestry, how old fashioned, how strange. And yet, as somebody who's been in, I suppose, the entertainment business all my life, I looked at the faces of the people looking at it and they were enraptured. And so I rang Sandy back on my mobile, being very modern, and I said, this is brilliant. He said, yes, why don't we do a tapestry of the history of Scotland and why don't you do the narrative? And I said, okay, two conditions. One, we call it the Great Tapestry of Scotland. And two, nobody interferes with me, nobody tells me what to do. It's my narrative or nothing. And he said, fun, fine deal done.
Jo Andrews
He worked with the designer Andrew Crummie to draw up cartoons of different scenes from Scottish history that Alistair thought should be included.
Alasdair Moffat
First of all, it's got to be people's tapestry. We can't have the tired old procession of kings and queens staggering across the landscape, you know, boring everybody to death, battles and all the rest of it, or Columba, you know, hectoring the sinful in the Highlands. What we need is something that is about Scotland's people. That's the first thing. Second thing is it's got to be all over Scotland.
Jo Andrews
And one of the wonderful things about this tapestry is that it includes the fabric of ordinary people's lives. This isn't just the story of elites.
Alasdair Moffat
And I came up with the idea of doing generic panels. So we would do weavers, Fisher lasses, we would do people who made linen, we would do people who Worked on the land plowman and so on. We'd do the harvest, because these are eternal things and ordinary people did that. And so that worked. And the other thing I was very keen to do is to have a laugh. You know, we couldn't be too poor faced about it, because that's just boring. And so in the tapestry, in the great tapestry, there are lots of good jokes.
Jo Andrews
The critical figure in creating any tapestry, particularly one as ambitious as this, is the head stitcher. Andrew Crummey, the designer, and Alastair had someone in mind.
Dori Wilkie
I thought they were mad. I think I was a bit living in denial slightly, because I was thinking about the practicalities of it all. And as more and more panels that Andrew had drawn came into my studio, which was then called the Hub, we were in separate places. They just kept coming and they just kept coming.
Jo Andrews
Dori Wilkie had been the head stitcher on the Preston Pans tapestry, but this was a much bigger job. She and her volunteers had to select the colours and the variety of stitches for the panels, order the linen and the wool and cut it all up into different kits and send it out to the stitching groups the length and breadth of the country.
Dori Wilkie
I made up three pages of suggestions of what stitches could be used, what they could do. They could, you know, just enjoy it, use your imaginations. Most of the volunteers were in groups, and so it was keeping contact with them. Gillian helped me allocate the panels and we allocated them according to geography and where the volunteers were living as much as possible and subject. And so hobbies were listed on this form that was sent out to anybody who applied to do it. And I was very keen. It wasn't just embroiderers, guild ladies and rural ladies. I wanted hobbyists, people who couldn't sew, and there were a load who couldn't sew. And they got themselves involved in this, this project, a meter square of embroidery. But they soon learned, because there's a lot online.
Jo Andrews
Some people were overwhelmed by what they'd taken on. Others simply put theirs away and didn't take it out for months. But others got started straight away. Dorrie had 10 volunteers working with her in the Hub, tackling inquiries and questions from the 60 stitching groups.
Dori Wilkie
There was a lot of angst at the beginning and worry that they would get it wrong and they had to be reassured nothing was wrong. They thought that perhaps they had to do all traditional stitching and it would be judged. But as we had halfway through making the tapestry, we had a meeting and it was called the blether. And all the groups came along that could with their panels at whatever stage, and they could see each other's panels and get excited about how, oh, they've stitched that like that. We weren't sure what to do. That's what we'll do. Or see how loosely they could stitch. By loosely, I mean avoiding necessarily tradition, you know, building up textures and things like that. And then it turned into research. And how. How do you stitch molten. Well, how do you ste. Molten steel? But you should look at the panel, it's beautiful. So they got ideas from each other, loosened up, began to get excited about the end. There were many reports of stitching till 3 and 4 in the morning, exhaustion, exhilaration when it was done, and they just felt as if they'd been bereaved once the panel went away because they'd spent so, so much time working on them.
Jo Andrews
There are tremendous stories that come from this time. One panel was allocated by postcode to the Outer Hebrides. Unfortunately, the two stitchers lived on different islands, with an hour's ferry crossing between them. Between January and April, each would stand in the howling wind and heavy downpours on jetty slipways to hand over their precious cargo to the obliging ferrymen for onward transmission to the other stitcher.
Dori Wilkie
It's storytelling and stitching. Working with thread is therapeutic. And very often we had people saying, oh, I'll just sit down for five minutes and stitch. And then four hours later they're still working on it. A lot of problems were solved sitting stitching and a lot of friendships were formed. So I can only think of beneficial. Once you get over the initial shock of stitching on such a large scale, I can only think of therapeutic moments, stitching and problem solving and bonding. A lot of women bonding and men. There were the occasional men who stitched and did a wee bit. But the other thing was, it brought in all the network of all these stitchers who had expertise on geography of the age area, the history, the whatever. So there was an inclusiveness with it as well.
Jo Andrews
And in time, the stitchers asked for more of their own stories to be included. And to me, these are some of the most beguiling panels.
Dori Wilkie
A lot of women were saying, why is there not more about the women's history? And so about 40 half panels, as we called them, because they were a metre by half a metre, were added depicting jobs that women stereotypically did. So in the Washerwoman one, for example, one of the stitchers grandmothers had to do Work because her grandfather fell in, couldn't earn money for the family, so she took in washing. So she remembered her grandmother, for example, used to roll down her stockings down to her ankle and had these pennies that tied at the back. And the other grandmother used to sew teddy bears for charity. So that's depicted in the panel as well.
Jo Andrews
Clare Hunter believes that the great tapestry of Scotland is a powerful record, partly because it's the work of so many.
Clare Hunter
Hands, because it has been stitched by a thousand women and a few men throughout Scotland, then it is an authentic testimony. It's not the narrative of one person, it's actually the kind of evocation, if you like, by a thousand different people of their country. And a lot of those people are sowing. It's a bit of a history which belongs to them, part of their place, part of their community, part of their legacy. And so the kind of authentic testimony of it, I think, gives it another kind of power. And it's both a celebration and it is a commemoration. Imbued within it are the thoughts and the knowledge and the. And the emotions of the people who sowed it. I sold a footballer in mind. We, a regroup of us from Glass got together and then we basically posted it to each other and we got the football panel, which we were a bit disappointed about the time because we wanted to have something much more kind of. Well, not that football isn't interesting, but, you know, something, you know, a river in sea and landscape or a battle or something might have been more riveting. But as my great, great, great grandfather been one of the founding members of Celtic football club, then, although this doesn't address any particular club, then I felt that I was actually sewing part of my own legacy when I did my footballer. You know, I have to say it was very frustrating to sew because of that wool yarn, but I was very glad to put my little bit into the. Into the tapestry.
Jo Andrews
The great tapestry of Scotland draws some of its inspiration directly from the Bayer tapestry. The centre was designed by Andrew Crummey, but the borders going around each panel, subdivided into squares, was left up to each stitching group to fill as they wished. Dorry says the stitches of a thousand years ago were present with them.
Dori Wilkie
My feeling about the embroiderers of the Bayer tapestry is that this was perhaps their work, depending who did it, and these were people who more commonly did this type of embroidery. But also it made us think about working together as people. I think it's this feeling of kinship doing something and just referring back to them and thinking about the days when women were really tied to the house and had to do housework and chores constantly, but had sewing bees and how they left to do that. Whereas people sewing the Bayer tapestry, probably this is what they did routinely. And then we saw the value of women getting together and talking through problems and encouraging each other with life. So, yes, we thought about them a lot, but we also thought about them more as an influence and what we were actually doing and carrying forward.
Jo Andrews
Eventually, the day came when all the panels were finished, but no one had given a great deal of thought about what happened next. Here's Alastair Moffat.
Alasdair Moffat
So it came to the point where we had to decide how we would show it for the first time. Now, I knew the guy who ran the Scottish Parliament and a lovely man, man Paul. And I said, got this tapestry, Paul, we'll show it. He said, we'll show it at the Scottish Parliament. It's the only place to do it. I said, but you haven't seen it. He said, I don't care. It'll be good. I'm sure it'll be good. I'm sure it'll be good. And so we agreed that we would show it in the foyer of the Scottish Parliament. I remember parking my car in the Queen's park in Edinburgh and walking across for the sort of evening preview, you know, the evening launch, thinking, jeez, there'll be three men and a dog there. It'll be awful. And I got in, I'll never forget this. And I could see away in the corner, Sandy McCall Smith and Andrew Crummey and Jan Rutherford and various others. And I thought, I have never seen this tapestry hung together. I've seen of individual panels, but I have never seen it go from 1 to 165. And so I started to walk around, and after about five minutes, the tears were running down my cheeks. I couldn't believe how powerful it was. It was amazing. What these women had created was staggering, staggering. The thing just sang in a way that I'd never, ever possibly been aware that it could.
Jo Andrews
He returned the next day.
Alasdair Moffat
I went back as the first day open to the public, thinking, yeah, okay, well, maybe I liked it. But you know, who else is going to give it Tinker's toss? And there was a queue around the block. There was a queue round the block to see it. They couldn't cope in the Scottish Parliament, all the officials were really worrying about the capacity of the foyer and the adjacent rooms to cope with a number of people. Alex Salmond was First Minister at the time, and he made a joke in the chamber saying he thought it was people waiting for First Minister's questions. But essentially it was rammed. People were desperate to see it.
Jo Andrews
The same thing happened wherever they took the tapestry across Scotland. Thousands of people came to see it. And when the tour came to an end, Alistair Moffat was determined the tapestry would have its own bespoke building in the old Borders textile town of Galashiels.
Alasdair Moffat
It was a fight to get the money. And, you know, I've done an enormous number of Burns suppers, I can tell you, as political favors. But basically it was. The whole thing was a labor of love. It really was. You know, I've been doing this since 2010. God, you know, involved in it in some way or other. And here I am, still involved in it.
Jo Andrews
Last year, King Charles and Queen Camilla came to visit and Alastair showed the Queen around.
Alasdair Moffat
The women who made this made something completely unique. It's the only huge, all encompassing history of Scotland written by women, made by women, not by men, but by women. I mean, there were five or six guys and about a thousand women who made this. And the Queen said to me, what did the men do? I said, they made the tea, and.
Jo Andrews
I doubt they did that for the women of the Bayer tapestry. TripAdvisor now rates the great tapestry of Scotland among the top 10% of the world's attractions. Many people come back to back.
Alasdair Moffat
Even though I know everything that's in every panel, I still get surprised by it. I mean, you forget stuff, of course, but I still get surprised by it and taken aback by it. I love that. I mean, how many things in your life do that to you? Very, very few. And it's also about. It's about a place we love. I mean, I remember Joanna Lumley saying to me, this is a love story. This is a love story. This is what it is, darling. It's a love story. And she's right. That's what it is.
Jo Andrews
There's something about these embroideries that connects us at a heart level to these stories. Perhaps it's the quality of thought or time that gone into them. Or maybe it's just a rest from written words that makes them so much more accessible and allows us to read our own meanings into them, but never underestimate their power to redefine who we are and how we see ourselves. Thank you to everyone who took part in this podcast, and especially all the stitchers living and now dead, who contributed to both the great tapestry of Scotland and the Bayeux Tapestry. If you find yourself anywhere near Gala, Shields or Bayeux do go and visit. You can find out more about this episode and see a full script and pictures at www. Listen-series/7 Haptic&hu is hosted by me, Joe Andrews and edited and produced by Bill Taylor. It's an independent production generously supported by our listeners who fund us via Buy Me a Coffee or by Becoming a Friend of Haptic and He at the end of last year, 2024 friends of Haptic and Hue adopted two stitches from the Royal School of Needleworks Stitch Wool, which is an effort to preserve the human heritage of every stitch in the world. One of the stitches we've supported is Bayeux Stitch, one of the principal stitches stitches used in the tapestry. There's more on the webpage for this episode. And if you become a friend, there's an extra podcast every month called Travels with Textiles, hosted by Bill Taylor and me, where we cover a whole range of different textile stories and news. This month we'll be looking at another velvet, very special tapestry that tells the story of oil, coal and climate change. But until then, it's goodbye from me and enjoy whatever you are making.
Alasdair Moffat
Sa sa.
Podcast Summary: Haptic & Hue – "Tapestries For Troubled Times"
Introduction
In the episode titled "Tapestries For Troubled Times" from Haptic & Hue's Tales of Textiles, host Jo Andrews explores the profound role of textiles in shaping and reflecting human history, particularly during periods of significant change and uncertainty. This episode juxtaposes the historic Bayeux Tapestry with the contemporary Great Tapestry of Scotland, illustrating how these monumental embroidered works serve as powerful narratives and communal memories.
The Bayeux Tapestry: A Historical Masterpiece
The episode opens with an introduction to the Bayeux Tapestry, an embroidered narrative created nearly a thousand years ago to chronicle the Norman Conquest of England. Jo Andrews sets the stage by highlighting the tapestry's recognition by UNESCO and its enduring legacy in northern France's Bayeux ([00:20] Jo Andrews).
Creation and Craftsmanship
Michael Lewis, a member of the Bayeux Tapestry Scientific Committee and co-author of a recent book on the tapestry, provides deeper insights into its creation. He suggests that the tapestry was likely crafted by Anglo-Saxon women who experienced the Norman Conquest firsthand, possibly losing family members in battles like Hastings ([01:17] Michael Lewis). Lewis emphasizes the diversity of the women's experiences and the emotional complexity they might have faced during the creation process:
“They would be reflecting upon that... maybe their kind of fears or hopes for what the future might bring.” ([01:17] Michael Lewis)
Technical Aspects and Artistic Influences
Jo Andrews clarifies a common misconception about the tapestry's nature, explaining that it's actually an embroidery rather than a true tapestry—a term that stuck due to historical mislabeling ([02:01] Jo Andrews). She delves into the tapestry's probable origins, noting that it was commissioned by Bishop Odo, William the Conqueror’s half-brother, and likely created near Canterbury in Kent ([03:38] Jo Andrews).
Michael Lewis discusses the artistic influences on the Bayeux Tapestry, noting connections to Canterbury's manuscript art and the potential biases in historical archives that have shaped our understanding of its design ([03:38] Michael Lewis).
The Women Behind the Threads
The discussion shifts to the demographics of the tapestry's creators. Michael Lewis dispels the notion that only nuns or aristocratic women were involved, pointing out that embroidery was a widespread skill among Anglo-Saxon women across various social strata ([05:04] Michael Lewis). This broad pool of potential stitchers suggests a diverse and extensive collaborative effort.
Clare Hunter, an author and community stitcher, adds that the embroiderers faced significant challenges, both emotional and physical. Working with limited materials—such as wool yarn and a restricted color palette—required immense skill and perseverance:
“They put in these tiny, small cameos of what their own experience was.” ([08:46] Clare Hunter)
She elaborates on the emotional depth infused into the tapestry, with women covertly embedding personal testimonies of trauma and loss related to the Norman Conquest ([09:54] Clare Hunter).
Modern Parallel: The Great Tapestry of Scotland
Transitioning to contemporary times, the episode introduces the Great Tapestry of Scotland, a massive community arts project inspired by the Bayeux Tapestry. Clare Hunter underscores its emotional potency as a tactile narrative that captures Scotland’s rich history through the collective efforts of over a thousand stitchers ([16:19] Clare Hunter).
Creation and Vision
Alasdair Moffat, a historian and one of the key figures behind the Great Tapestry of Scotland, recounts his inspiration and the collaborative process that led to its creation. Influenced by community reactions to a historical tapestry in Edinburgh, Moffat envisioned a tapestry that tells Scotland's story through the lives of ordinary people rather than just its elites:
“What we need is something that is about Scotland's people.” ([20:21] Alasdair Moffat)
He collaborated with designer Andrew Crummie to develop scenes that reflect everyday Scottish life, ensuring the tapestry remained inclusive and representative of diverse experiences ([19:56] Alasdair Moffat).
Role of the Head Stitcher: Dori Wilkie
Dori Wilkie, the head stitcher, discusses the logistical and creative challenges of coordinating thousands of volunteers across Scotland. She emphasizes the therapeutic and communal benefits participants experienced, fostering friendships and problem-solving through their shared craft:
“It's storytelling and stitching. Working with thread is therapeutic.” ([23:10] Dori Wilkie)
Wilkie shares touching anecdotes, such as stitchers overcoming geographical barriers to collaborate, symbolizing the unity and resilience embedded in the tapestry ([25:34] Dori Wilkie).
Inclusion and Representation
As the project progressed, volunteers advocated for greater representation of women's history, leading to the addition of panels that highlight traditional female roles and personal stories. This inclusivity deepened the tapestry's authenticity and emotional resonance, making it a true communal legacy ([26:42] Dori Wilkie).
Clare Hunter highlights the tapestry's collective power, noting that it serves as an authentic testimony woven by a thousand hands, each contributing their unique perspective and legacy ([27:37] Clare Hunter):
“It's both a celebration and it is a commemoration... imbued within it are the thoughts and the knowledge and the emotions of the people who sowed it.” ([27:37] Clare Hunter)
Unveiling and Legacy
Alasdair Moffat recounts the overwhelming public reception of the Great Tapestry of Scotland during its debut at the Scottish Parliament. Contrary to his initial fears, the tapestry elicited powerful emotional responses, drawing crowds eager to witness its grandeur:
“What these women had created was staggering, staggering. The thing just sang in a way that I'd never, ever possibly been aware that it could.” ([31:00] Alasdair Moffat)
The tapestry's tour across Scotland garnered immense popularity, culminating in a bespoke building in Galashiels to house this monumental work. Moffat reflects on the project's enduring legacy and its recognition as a top attraction:
“Even though I know everything that's in every panel, I still get surprised by it... very few [things] in your life do that to you.” ([34:24] Alasdair Moffat)
Conclusion
Jo Andrews wraps up the episode by reflecting on the timeless power of embroidered narratives to connect us deeply to our histories and each other. She emphasizes that these textiles, rich with thought and time, offer a unique refuge from written words, allowing individuals to interpret and find personal meaning within them. The episode honors both historical and modern stitchers, celebrating their contributions to preserving and sharing invaluable stories through the art of embroidery.
“Never underestimate their power to redefine who we are and how we see ourselves.” ([35:20] Jo Andrews)
Notable Quotes
Michael Lewis ([01:17])
“They would be reflecting upon that... maybe their kind of fears or hopes for what the future might bring.”
Clare Hunter ([08:46])
“They put in these tiny, small cameos of what their own experience was.”
Alasdair Moffat ([17:50])
“You could look at the faces of the people looking at it and they were enraptured.”
Dori Wilkie ([23:10])
“It's storytelling and stitching. Working with thread is therapeutic.”
Jo Andrews ([35:20])
“Never underestimate their power to redefine who we are and how we see ourselves.”
Further Information
For those interested in exploring more about this episode, including a full script and accompanying images, visit www.Listen-series/7Haptic&Hue. Supporters can become friends of Haptic & Hue to gain access to exclusive content and additional podcasts, such as Travels with Textiles, which delves into various textile stories and news.
Visit in Person
If you find yourself near Galashiels, Shields, or Bayeux, consider visiting the Great Tapestry of Scotland or the Bayeux Tapestry to experience their emotional and historical profundity firsthand.
Final Thoughts
Tapestries For Troubled Times beautifully illustrates how textiles transcend mere decorative art, serving as vital historical documents and emotional outlets. Through the dedication of countless women and a few men, both ancient and modern tapestries capture the essence of human resilience, community, and the enduring power of storytelling through fabric.