Haptic & Hue: Tales of Textiles
Episode: The Point of The Needle - How the Ancient Craft of Stitching Shapes Us
Host: Jo Andrews
Guest: Barbara Berman
Release Date: December 7, 2023

Introduction

In the final episode of Series Five of Haptic & Hue's Tales of Textiles, host Jo Andrews bids farewell to 2023 and the current series by spotlighting Barbara Berman's newly released book, The Point of the Needle. This episode diverges slightly from previous ones, delving deeply into the history, significance, and evolving role of stitching in human society.

Barbara Berman's Book: The Point of the Needle

Barbara Berman, a historian with previous works on textiles and women's roles, introduces her book as a celebration of the ancient craft of stitching. She emphasizes that stitching is not merely a practical skill but a profound human endeavor that shapes our lives and societies.

Barbara Berman [01:55]: "The Point of the Needle is really about thinking about sewing. And I think that that's how you celebrate something is to think as deeply as you can about it."

Barbara's objective is to elevate sewing into serious conversations about making and human flourishing, highlighting its benefits for problem-solving and mental well-being.

Sewing in the Blood: Generational Transmission

Barbara shares insights from her interviews, revealing that for many, sewing is an intrinsic part of their heritage, passed down through generations.

Barbara Berman [04:10]: "Sewing in the blood...sort of sewing in the blood in some families, right back to the 19th century... learning from mothers and aunts and grannies and great grannies."

Growing up in a financially constrained environment, Barbara witnessed her mother's dedication to dressmaking, instilling in her a deep respect for the craft.

Barbara Berman [05:24]: "I never reached the levels of skill that she did, and I don't want anybody to think that I'm talking about only skilled things mattering."

She underscores that both skilled and less-than-perfect sewing endeavors hold value, fostering personal satisfaction and creativity.

Changing Values in Sewing: 25 Years Apart

Barbara's research includes two sets of interviews conducted 25 years apart. The initial interviews in the 1990s faced skepticism from academic peers but revealed rich, autobiographical stories from elderly women about their sewing experiences.

Barbara Berman [05:50]: "They moved from it can't be interesting because it's women's work...to realizing that there was a lot to say."

During the COVID-19 pandemic, Barbara revisited this project, this time collecting written accounts due to restrictions. The newer cohort exhibited a heightened awareness of sustainability and mental health, reflecting societal shifts.

Barbara Berman [07:58]: "There are more ingenious ways of describing their gender where there was a much greater emphasis on sustainability and environmental issues."

Sewing as Political Expression

Modern stitchers are increasingly using sewing as a means of political expression, creating garments that reflect their identities rather than conforming to prevailing fashion trends.

Barbara Berman [10:19]: "If you feel that you're excluded from the language and the look of fashion...you can sew your way into a place that's yours that expresses you."

Examples include movements like the AIDS Memorial Quilt and the Curvy Sewing Collective, which empower individuals to express themselves and challenge industry norms.

Barbara Berman [10:19]: "It's quite radical...allowing them to express themselves and be what they want to do."

The Rise of Men in Sewing

Barbara observes a growing number of men engaging in sewing, breaking traditional gender barriers. Terms like "sutores" have emerged, reflecting this inclusivity.

Barbara Berman [11:56]: "More men are taking it up...how they have to, in a way, break through some kind of gender barrier."

Retailers report increased male participation, often starting with simple projects like making shirts, demonstrating the craft's expanding appeal.

Barbara Berman [12:49]: "They want to make a shirt...and off they go."

Sewing vs. Fast Fashion: A Shift in Consumerism

Barbara highlights a significant shift in consumer behavior: while fast fashion remains prevalent, a renaissance in home sewing is emerging. This movement fosters thoughtful consumption and a deeper appreciation for the people behind clothing production.

Barbara Berman [12:49]: "Buying fast fashion is now cheaper than making your own...stitching changes our relationship to consumerism."

She critiques the exploitation in the textile industry, where workers often receive minimal compensation, advocating for greater awareness and ethical consumption.

Barbara Berman [13:38]: "How much of that £20 is the maker getting? Usually disturbingly little."

Thoughtful Consumption: Barbara’s Approach

Barbara practices mindful consumerism by investing in long-lasting pieces and scrutinizing product labels for material and ethical standards.

Barbara Berman [16:35]: "Don't buy immediately, don't rush at it...the next thing I buy, is it going to work with something I've already got?"

Her approach involves minimizing unnecessary purchases and ensuring that new acquisitions complement existing wardrobes, fostering sustainability.

The Undervaluation of Sewing

Barbara discusses the societal undervaluation of sewing, often relegated to "women's work" and thus marginalized and underappreciated. This perception contributes to a lack of practical skills among younger generations.

Barbara Berman [19:23]: "It's a bit like the air we breathe...plausibly overlooked and to label as women's work."

She warns that this division between manual and intellectual labor is detrimental, depriving individuals of essential skills and a fuller human experience.

Emotional and Sensory Connection to Sewing

Sewing is depicted as a deeply emotional and sensory activity, fostering connections to memories, family, and personal identity. The tactile love of fabric drives many to engage passionately with the craft.

Barbara Berman [22:35]: "The love of fabric is a very important one and that's a clearly a multisensory relationship."

Sociologist Mary Beth Stout notes the addictive nature of fabric collecting, intertwining guilt and passion, highlighting sewing's profound emotional resonance.

Barbara Berman [22:35]: "They felt slightly guilty that they were taking time to themselves...their sewing machines."

Conclusion: Mending as Hope

Barbara posits that mending garments symbolizes hope and resilience, intertwining practical action with emotional preservation.

Barbara Berman [29:45]: "Mending is hope and optimism...preserve emotion and memory to maintain attachments."

This sentiment encapsulates the episode's overarching theme: stitching is not only a practical skill but a fundamental human expression of creativity, identity, and resilience.

Final Thoughts

Jo Andrews wraps up the episode by acknowledging Barbara Berman's contributions to understanding the multifaceted nature of sewing. She also shares an extract from Barbara's chapter on mending, reinforcing the theme of sewing as a testament to human resilience.

Join Jo and Bill Taylor in the upcoming Series Six of Haptic & Hue’s Tales of Textiles, launching January 2024. For more information, visit www.hapticandhew.com.

Notable Quotes

1. Barbara Berman [01:55]: "The Point of the Needle is really about thinking about sewing. And I think that that's how you celebrate something is to think as deeply as you can about it."

2. Barbara Berman [04:10]: "Sewing in the blood...sort of sewing in the blood in some families, right back to the 19th century..."

3. Barbara Berman [10:19]: "If you feel that you're excluded from the language and the look of fashion...you can sew your way into a place that's yours that expresses you."

4. Barbara Berman [19:23]: "It's a bit like the air we breathe...plausibly overlooked and to label as women's work."

5. Barbara Berman [29:45]: "Mending is hope and optimism...preserve emotion and memory to maintain attachments."

This episode of Haptic & Hue offers a comprehensive exploration of the enduring and evolving significance of stitching, intertwining personal narratives with broader societal implications. Whether you're an avid stitcher or simply intrigued by the cultural dimensions of textiles, Barbara Berman's insights provide a profound understanding of how an ancient craft continues to shape and reflect our lives.