Podcast Summary: Haptic & Hue
Episode: The Quilts That Hold the Heart of Hawaii
Release Date: February 6, 2025
Host: Jo Andrews

Introduction

In the February 6, 2025 episode of Haptic & Hue, host Jo Andrews delves into the vibrant world of Hawaiian quilting, exploring its deep cultural significance and the intricate craftsmanship that keeps Hawaiian traditions alive. Titled "The Quilts That Hold the Heart of Hawaii," this episode highlights an exclusive exhibition at the Pitt Rivers Museum in Oxford, showcasing the unique artistry of Hawaiian quilts and their role in preserving and narrating the stories of the Hawaiian people.

Pitt Rivers Museum and Marenka Thompson Odlum's Exhibition

The episode opens with Jo Andrews describing the contrast between the dimly lit, sepia-toned displays of the Pitt Rivers Museum and the vibrant Hawaiian quilts that bring color and life to a modern gallery within the museum (00:20).

Marenka Thompson Odlum, the curator of the exhibition, emphasizes the dynamic nature of Hawaiian communities:

"Marenka Thompson Odlum: 'The Pitt Rivers is great in many ways, but it also gives people the idea that either a lot of these cultural groups are dead, dying, or stuck in like a dragon flying amber. I wanted to show that these are thriving communities... changing it and growing.'" (01:50)

Marenka commissioned new quilts for the museum, aiming to demonstrate that Hawaiian textiles are living traditions that continue to evolve and reflect contemporary Hawaiian life.

The Art of Hawaiian Quilting with Pat Gorlangton

Jo introduces Pat Gorlangton, a seasoned Hawaiian quilt maker with nearly two decades of experience. Pat explains the distinctive nature of Hawaiian quilts:

"Pat Gorlangton: 'Hawaiian quilts are immediately recognizable... they're appliqued quilts, designed in a balanced, repeating pattern, just as you would a snowflake.'" (03:41)

Pat details the meticulous process of creating these quilts, which involves cutting fabric folded into eight layers—a technique reminiscent of making a paper snowflake (04:08). The emphasis on symmetry and the challenge of handling large-scale designs are central to maintaining the aesthetic harmony of each quilt.

One of Pat's notable works for the Pitt Rivers exhibition, Tea Leaf and Lau Ia Fern, features intricate native Hawaiian flora patterns on an oxblood red background:

"Pat Gorlangton: 'The tea leaf is very much involved in the past culture of Hawaiian islands as well as the present.'" (06:10)

Cultural and Environmental Significance

Marenka Thompson Odlum discusses how Hawaiian quilts embody the relationship between family and the environment, reflecting the Hawaiian concept of ōhāna (family):

"Marenka Thompson Odlum: 'It’s the family, the tradition of family in quilting, but also the idea of the Hawaiian environment being your family... being stewards of the land.'" (03:11)

She further elaborates on contemporary environmental challenges faced by Hawaiians, such as the Rapid ʻŌhiʻa Death fungus, and how these impact traditional practices:

"Marenka Thompson Odlum: 'Hula practitioners have to change their practices to fit the current situation... shifting how they interact with natural resources to ensure sustainability.'" (07:53)

The Poa Kalani Quilting Group and John Sarao's Legacy

The Poa Kalani Quilting Group is introduced as the creative force behind the 15 quilts in the Pitt Rivers Museum. This group is led by Sissy Sarrau, daughter of John Sarao and Poa Kalani, who founded the group:

"Poa Kalani Quilting Group: 'The designer, John, was able to adapt patterns to suit individual stories and needs... making quilting a personal and evolving art form.'" (15:42)

Sissy shares personal anecdotes about her father’s innovative approach to quilting, especially how he adapted patterns for his wife, Poa, who was born with one hand:

"Sissy Sarrau: 'My dad made the patterns smaller and created a special square frame that allowed Poa to quilt effectively. He enabled her to express her creativity despite her physical limitations.'" (16:22)

John Sarao's ability to incorporate personal stories and cultural motifs into quilt designs revolutionized Hawaiian quilting, making each piece a unique narrative.

Stories Embedded in Quilts

Pat Gorlangton emphasizes the narrative aspect of Hawaiian quilts, where each piece tells a story or commemorates an event:

"Pat Gorlangton: 'The story behind the quilt is just as important as the quilt pattern itself... Hawaiian quilting is all by hand, we feel that it's your mana, your spirit, your energy is passing through to the quilt.'" (09:55)

This mana (spiritual energy) is further enhanced by tradition, where quilters sleep under their finished quilts to imbue them with additional personal energy:

"Pat Gorlangton: 'Once you complete a quilt, you sleep under it for a night so that even more mana is passed on.'" (11:20)

The Kalo Quilt: Symbolism and Story

One of the standout pieces in the exhibition is the Kalo Quilt, depicting the taro plant, a cornerstone of Hawaiian agriculture and culture:

"Marenka Thompson Odlum: 'Kalo is the Hawaiian name for taro... it nourishes the people, and you take care of the taro as you take care of your sibling.'" (12:22)

Marenka explains the mythological background of taro, symbolizing the bond between people and the land, and the interconnectedness of all life:

"Marenka Thompson Odlum: 'The taro plant grew from a stillborn child of the sky father and earth mother, representing a symbiotic relationship between people and their environment.'" (12:22)

The intricate design incorporates poi pounders, traditional volcanic rock tools, connecting the quilt's visual elements to practical Hawaiian life.

Historical Context of Hawaiian Textiles with Catherine Imai Kalani Ulap

Catherine Imai Kalani Ulap, a historian of Hawaiian material culture, provides a comprehensive overview of the evolution of textiles in Hawaii:

"Catherine Imai Kalani Ulap: 'Woven fabrics began to appear in the late 1700s, largely due to European trade. Cloth became almost like currency in early Hawaii...'" (28:24)

She details how European contact introduced new fabrics and sewing techniques, initially through sailors like Francisco di Paolo Marin (Manini), who sewed for Hawaiian chiefs even before the arrival of missionaries:

"Catherine Imai Kalani Ulap: 'Manini was sewing shirts for the chiefs before missionaries arrived, indicating that needlecraft was valued and practiced early on.'" (33:55)

The introduction of Victorian fashion through missionary influence gradually transformed Hawaiian quilting from patchwork to the distinctive appliqued patterns rooted in Hawaiian motifs.

Missionary Influence and Evolution of Quilting

The influx of missionaries in the 1820s introduced Western sewing techniques and cultural norms, including sewing circles and Victorian clothing styles such as bonnets:

"Sissy Sarrau: 'Missionary wives held the first sewing circles in Hawaii, teaching Hawaiian women how to sew and adopt Western clothing styles.'" (31:14)

However, Hawaiian women adapted these new skills to create their own quilting traditions, emphasizing central motifs inspired by nature rather than the traditional patchwork approach:

"Sissy Sarrau: 'In the 1940s-50s, Hawaiian women began quilting with central designs that reflected Hawaiian nature, diverging from the time-consuming patchwork method.'" (33:15)

This evolution marked the birth of modern Hawaiian quilting, characterized by symmetry, native motifs, and personal storytelling.

Cultural Appropriation and Intellectual Property

Marenka Thompson Odlum addresses the sensitive issue of cultural appropriation, highlighting the unauthorized use of Hawaiian quilt designs by commercial entities:

"Marenka Thompson Odlum: 'We used designs specifically created by John Sarao to ensure we respected intellectual property. Appropriating indigenous designs without permission is unacceptable.'" (23:28)

She stresses the importance of recognizing these designs as family heirlooms and intellectual property, advocating for respectful use and acknowledgment.

Enduring and Evolving Tradition

Despite historical challenges, Hawaiian quilting remains a vibrant and evolving art form. Sissy Sarrau underscores the balance between tradition and personal expression:

"Sissy Sarrau: 'The tradition of the center medallion remains, symbolizing both personal and cultural centers. Quilting lines radiate from the center, representing love and connection out into the world.'" (20:39)

Sissy shares examples of quilts that convey personal loss and love, illustrating how the art form continues to serve as a medium for storytelling and emotional expression:

"Sissy Sarrau: 'Quilts like Kamakani Kaili Aloha represent personal stories, such as the loss of a loved one, blending traditional motifs with individual narratives.'" (19:15)

Conclusion

Jo Andrews wraps up the episode by acknowledging the remarkable contributions of the Poa Kalani Quilting Group and encouraging listeners to appreciate the beauty and cultural depth of Hawaiian quilts:

"Jo Andrews: 'These quilts represent so much about Hawaiian life and the stories of the people who first settled here. If you can, do go and see the quilts in person.'" (38:19)

She also promotes the upcoming giveaway of "Mauka Tumakai," a book edited by Marenka Thompson Odlum, featuring images and interviews related to the quilts.

Key Takeaways

• Hawaiian Quilting is a living tradition that combines intricate craftsmanship with deep cultural narratives.
• Symmetry and Native Motifs distinguish Hawaiian quilts from other quilting traditions, emphasizing the connection between family and environment.
• Poa Kalani Quilting Group plays a pivotal role in preserving and evolving the art form, with significant contributions from John Sarao and his family.
• Cultural Appropriation is a critical issue, underscoring the need to respect and protect indigenous intellectual property.
• Historical Influences from European traders and missionaries shaped the development of Hawaiian quilting, blending traditional Hawaiian elements with new sewing techniques.
• Personal Storytelling through quilts allows for individual and collective expression, maintaining the relevance and vitality of Hawaiian traditions.

Notable Quotes:

• Marenka Thompson Odlum: "I wanted to show that these [Hawaiian] are thriving communities. They are still working towards reclaiming a lot of their cultural heritage, but also changing it and growing." (01:50)
• Pat Gorlangton: "Hawaiian quilting is all by hand, we feel that it's your mana, your spirit, your energy is passing through to the quilt." (09:55)
• Sissy Sarrau: "Quilts like Kamakani Kaili Aloha represent personal stories, such as the loss of a loved one, blending traditional motifs with individual narratives." (19:15)

For more information about this episode and to explore the full transcript and pictures, visit www.hapticandhue.com.

Presenting a heartfelt exploration of Hawaiian quilting, this episode of Haptic & Hue celebrates the artistry and cultural significance of quilts that embody the spirit and stories of Hawaii.