Saturday Matinee: The History of Fresh Produce

Summary

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History Daily: Saturday Matinee – The History of Fresh Produce (The History of Asparagus)

Podcast: History Daily – Saturday Matinee
Date: August 30, 2025
Hosts: Patrick Kelly and John Paul (from The History of Fresh Produce)

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Overview

This lively Saturday Matinee episode, featured on History Daily, spotlights an episode from “The History of Fresh Produce,” focusing on the rich, curious, and surprisingly dramatic story of asparagus. Hosts Patrick Kelly and John Paul blend culinary passion, historical depth, and offbeat anecdotes to uncover how asparagus has evolved from an ancient medicinal plant to a globally traded, sometimes controversial, delicacy. Deep dives cover its cultural roots, place in art and literature, science (why does pee smell after eating it?), and present-day production challenges.

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Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Asparagus Through the Ages: An Elegant Vegetable with a Storied Past

• The show opens with John Paul reading Marcel Proust’s luxurious praise of asparagus, setting a tone of sensual delight and historical reverence.
  [05:05] John Paul reads Proust describing asparagus as “a rainbow loveliness that was not of this world.”
• Asparagus “officinalis” is introduced as a plant with ancient roots, possibly cultivated by Egyptians and beloved since at least Roman times.
• The vegetable's scientific ties: related to leeks and onions, and often called “grass” in the agricultural business.

2. The Etymology and Varieties of Asparagus

• The hosts trace the complicated linguistic journey from “asparagus” in medieval Latin to slang forms like “sparrow grass.”
  [07:50] “The name traces back to medieval Latin... over time, it morphed... but the official spelling remained asparagus.” – John Paul
• Explanation of three main types: green, white (grown in darkness), and lavender-tipped.
  [08:30] “White asparagus... produced a somewhat subtler, albeit more fibrous, texture.” – John Paul

3. Symbolism and Status in Antiquity

• Revered by ancient Greeks for sacred and aphrodisiac qualities.
• The Romans highly prized asparagus and even developed an “asparagus fleet” to transport it fresh to Rome. [09:53] “Emperor Augustus even created... the asparagus fleet... to bring the vegetable fresh right to Rome.” – Patrick Kelly
• References to medicinal and culinary uses by Hippocrates and Roman authors. Pliny the Elder praised its “bountiful” variety from Ravenna.

Notable Quote

• [12:00] “Caesar’s legions deserved special mention... they brought asparagus back to Europe... and froze it in the Alps for preservation.” – Patrick Kelly
• Pliny the Elder and ancient poets immortalized asparagus in literature.

4. Art, Medicine, and Social Symbolism in Europe

• During the Middle Ages, asparagus vanishes, only to reemerge with vigor in the Renaissance as a delicacy of the elite. [14:54] “The Arabs... kept that flame alive... it wasn’t till the Renaissance that asparagus reemerged as a status symbol.” – John Paul
• Louis XIV (“The Sun King”) was obsessed, building greenhouses for a year-round supply and dubbing asparagus the “queen of vegetables.” [17:34] “...He even dubbed asparagus the queen of vegetables, didn’t he?” – Patrick Kelly
• The Catholic Church reportedly banned asparagus from convents, fearing its aphrodisiac reputation.

Memorable Exchange

• [19:04] “That’s the idea that plants resembling a body part were thought to benefit the specific area...” – Patrick Kelly & John Paul discussing Renaissance beliefs.

• Casanova had asparagus in his seduction arsenal.

• French and Flemish refugees introduce commercial-scale root plants, including asparagus, to England, democratizing its consumption.

5. Asparagus in Art and Popular Imagination

• French Impressionists and Dutch masters painted asparagus, giving it a prominent place in still life. [23:54] “Manet painted ‘A Bunch of Asparagus’ in 1880... a simple yet evocative study of the vegetable.” – John Paul

6. Science and Sensation: Asparagus and Urine

• The sulfurous smell after eating asparagus is caused by asparagusic acid breaking down into detectable compounds. [26:54] “While everyone who eats asparagus produces these compounds, not everyone can smell them. It’s a quirk of genetics.” – Patrick Kelly
• Not everyone can detect the odor, and the hosts riff on this, sharing personal stories about sensory perception.

7. The American Story: From Colonial Kitchens to Supermarkets

• Dutch and English settlers introduced asparagus to America in the 17th century; early plantings were in New Netherland (later New York), and Pennsylvania. [30:19] “By the early 1650s... asparagus had already made its way to North American gardens...” – Patrick Kelly
• By the 19th century, asparagus was a sign of spring and appeared in American cookbooks.
• Today, production concentrates in California and Michigan, but the United States now imports the majority of its asparagus.

8. German Obsession: The “Royal Vegetable” and a National Fest

• White asparagus (Spargel) is a seasonal, cultural phenomenon in Germany, celebrated with festivals, tours, and Monarchs of Asparagus crowned. [34:58] “Known as the königliches Gemüse, or royal vegetable, the love affair... goes back centuries.” – John Paul
• The Nazis and East German Communists restricted its production, but spargel endured through home gardens and was celebrated anew after reunification.

9. Modern Trade, Globalization, and Sustainability Challenges

• Today, 70-80% of US asparagus is imported, predominantly from Peru and Mexico, due to economic and climatic factors. [41:54] “In 1970, the US barely imported any asparagus. By 1999, annual imports had soared to over 150 million pounds.” – Patrick Kelly

• The Andean Trade Preference Act (1991) incentivized Peruvian asparagus as an alternative to coca, but water overuse in the Ica Valley now threatens an ecological crisis. [44:22] “Over-exploitation of the Ica Valley’s aquifer has created a water crisis... the ecological and social costs are staggering.” – Patrick Kelly

• The hosts discuss the complex trade-offs between economic benefits (jobs, exports) and environmental damages (water scarcity). [45:43] “A thriving export industry built on a collapsing ecosystem... As this climate changes and El Niño worsens water shortages, the situation grows more dire.” – Patrick Kelly

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Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• Proust’s Asparagus:
  *[05:05] “A rainbow loveliness that was not of this world.” – Marcel Proust (read by John Paul)
• Ship of Veggies:
  *[09:53] “Emperor Augustus even created what he called the asparagus fleet... to bring the vegetable fresh to Rome.” – Patrick Kelly
• Aphrodisiac Allure:
  *[19:11] “Asparagus, with its elongated form, was associated with enhancing passion.” – John Paul
• Personal Anecdote:
  *[47:56] “Which I smell it all. Listen, I can smell your baby going in its diaper from New York. OK... It is a superpower I’ve had with all my kids.” – Patrick Kelly

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Timestamps for Important Segments

• [05:05] — Proust’s poetic description of asparagus
• [06:56-08:32] — Etymology and varieties of asparagus
• [09:53] — Ancient Rome’s love, “asparagus fleet”
• [14:54] — Renaissance rebirth; status symbol
• [17:34 & 19:11] — The Sun King, aphrodisiac beliefs and “shape analogy”
• [23:54] — Asparagus in art: Manet’s and Monet’s still lifes
• [25:19 & 26:54] — The science of asparagus urine odor
• [30:19-33:24] — Colonial America and US production history
• [34:58-39:58] — Germany’s “spargelzeit” and asparagus cult status
• [41:54-44:22] — Modern import, NAFTA, and Peru’s aquifer crisis

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Conclusion

With humor, detail, and admiration, the hosts track asparagus across empires, languages, continents, sciences, and social classes. Each phase—Greek medicine, Roman logistics, Renaissance luxury, American farms, German festivals, and Peruvian export drama—adds something to asparagus’ mystique. The humble stalk proves to be a vegetable of fascinating complexity, linking culinary tradition, economics, biology, and global politics.

Final Reflection:
“You really have everything... love, comedy, drama, some sex... it's quite a vegetable, the asparagus, with quite a complicated, rich history.”
— John Paul [46:41]

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This episode is ideal for listeners craving witty historical deep dives, curious culinary facts, or anyone who’ll never look at an asparagus spear the same way again.

Transcript

[Narrator/Announcer]

There are more ways than ever to listen to History Daily ad free. Listen with Wondry plus in the Wondery app as a member of Noiser plus at noiser.com or in Apple Podcasts. Or you can get all of History Daily plus other fantastic history [e-mail] I love to cook. From scrambling an egg for my daughter in the morning to an elaborate multi course celebration dinner, the planning, preparation and execution of a meal done well is a great thrill for me. But though my knife skills are impressive and I have a well stocked pantry and kitchen full of gadgets and utensils, no amount of equipment or technique will help you make a meal better than better ingredients do. For instance, if you really want a pasta a matriciana that sings, choose your ingredients carefully. A bronze cut semolina pasta guanciale instead of bacon Fresh grated pecorino Romano instead of parm from a green can Whole San Marzano tomatoes instead of industrial crushed in a dish with only four ingredients. Each one counts, but also every one of those ingredients has a story. I mean, how did Italy's pasta culture even develop? Could it really be true that such iconic Italian cuisine is built of noodles borrowed from China and tomatoes borrowed from the Aztecs? Even individual vegetables have a fascinating history. Potatoes too came from the New World, so how did they become the staple food crop for the Irish? Did you know that celery was once such a status symbol that stalks of the stuff would be displayed by well to do households in dedicated celery vases? Ever since the beginning, we humans have been eating, so it's not surprising that our food has a long and fascinating history. On today's Saturday Matinee, we bring you an episode from the podcast History of Fresh Produce, which delves into the fascinating story of asparagus, one of the most intriguing vegetables in history. I hope you enjoy. While you're listening, be sure to search for and follow History of Fresh Produce. We put a link in the show notes to make it easy for you.

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[John Paul]

Reading lists for every episode on the History of Fresh Produce, a chat community discounts for all the books mentioned in the week's podcast ad, free listening and a bi weekly newsletter. Sign up to the History of Fresh Produce Club at the Produce Industry Podcast.

[Narrator/Announcer]

Hello everybody and welcome back to the History of Fresh Produce, the podcast series.

[Hellman's Mayo Advertiser]

That explores the fascinating and often overlooked history of fresh fruits and vegetables.

[Narrator/Announcer]

Here are your hosts, Patrick Kelly and John Paul.

[John Paul]

What fascinated me would be the asparagus, tinged with ultramarine and rosy pink, which ran from their heads, finely stippled in mauve and azure, through a series of imperceptible changes to their white feet, still stained a little by the soil of their garden bed, a rainbow loveliness that was not of this world. I felt that these celestial hues indicated the presence of exquisite creatures who had been pleased to assume vegetable form, who, through the disguise which covered their firm and edible flesh, allowed me to discern in this radiance of earliest dawn, these hinted rainbows, these blue evening shades, that precious quality which I should recognize again when all night long, after a dinner at which I had partaken of them, they played lyrical and coarse in their jesting as the fairies in Shakespeare's dream at transforming my humble chamber into a bower of aromatic perfume. Hello everybody. And that was French novelist Marcel Proust in one of his novels titled Swan's way in 1913. And Patrick, that was quite a emotional, sensual description. I mean, that guy, I'm like, wow, asparagus.

[Patrick Kelly]

He does.

[John Paul]

I mean, when I first read that, I was like, wow. That this is wow. I don't think we'll be able to beat that. As an introduction to what we're going to be talking today, which is obviously the history of asparagus. Asparagus.

[Patrick Kelly]

I love it, man.

[John Paul]

You like asparagus?

[Patrick Kelly]

One of my favorites, man. Love asparagus. I normally, on any given week, I would say two times a week, we probably buy. What are they called?

[John Paul]

Like the stocks?

[Patrick Kelly]

I guess batches, like bundles. Yeah. So I guess I probably buy two to four bundles a week, I would say. Yeah, I'm an asparagus guy, man. I never used to be, but I've learned how to cook them. So I. I love asparagus. And I got a buddy who worked for a couple asparagus companies. Fun fact, everybody. Asparagus in the business world of ag is also called grass.

[John Paul]

Grass. Well, actually, it's funny you mentioned that, because we're going to talk about some of the terms that we're talking about.

[Patrick Kelly]

Grass.

[John Paul]

We're going to be talking about grass, asparagus, Bermuda. But before we. We already get off, off, off.

[Patrick Kelly]

Gear up on another tangent.

[John Paul]

Yeah, let's. Let's dive into this because it's. It's a rich history and we're probably not even touching all of it, but we're gonna. We're gonna do this all in one episode today.

[Patrick Kelly]

Listen.

[John Paul]

So asparagus officinalis, to use its formal name, is part of the Ask me Lilia ch. Family, and it's a distant relative of leeks and onions, which kind of makes sense. So you could say it's. It's the aristocrat of the Allium world. And we'll. We'll explain more why that is. And what's fascinating is just how ancient this vegetable is. So people have been savoring asparagus for well over 2000 years, and it's thought to have originated in the eastern Mediterranean. The wild varieties have been discovered as far afield as Africa, and archeologists even believe that ancient Egyptians cultivated it. So just imagine Cleopatra nibbling on a spear of asparagus. Really an image to conjure, isn't it? Don't you think, Patrick? That's a nice little. I like it. I like it.

[Patrick Kelly]

It's a nice little scene, you know, just everybody, you know, close your eyes for a few seconds and think about it. Yeah, it's not bad.

[John Paul]

Now, let's get back to its name, right? Asparagus. It's a weird word if you really think about it. But many believe that the term sparrow grass was a product of rustic slang, later refined to the more elegant asparagus. But the truth, as ever, is somewhat more layered. So the name actually traces back to medieval Latin, where it was first known as asparagus. And over time, it morphed in late Old English to sparage and then in Middle English to asparages. And by the 16th century, it took on forms like sparich or sparage, but the official spelling between all that still remained asparagus, the way you spell asparagus today to align with its Latin roots. So, interestingly, this adherence to Latin gave the word a reputation for stiffness and pedantry, leading to the more colloquial sparrow grass. And protest isn't language marvel. It's. It's a linguistic journey almost as layered as asparagus itself. And speaking of layers, Patrick, there are three main types of asparagus. And you probably know this depends on from base what you told me, how much asparagus by each week. But the most common is probably all that we know, the. The all green variety with its tender spears and robust flavor. Then there's the white asparagus, cultivated in darkness by earthing up the tips and producing a somewhat subtler, albeit more fibrous texture. And lastly, there's a lavender tipped asparagus, which is essentially white asparagus that's been reintroduced to sunlight. Yeah, it's like a culinary version of rewilding, don't you think?

[Patrick Kelly]

I saw that? Yeah. I don't know all the versions of the asparagus I'm learning right now. I mean, I'm just a asparagus guy that I love eating it. I don't know about it as much as we've talked about right now.

[John Paul]

No, no. But what does this tell us about its role in history and culture? So why don't we explore that next, Patrick?

[Patrick Kelly]

Listen, it's definitely, I would tell you, a poetic comparison, John. Okay. And I'll tell you this. I'm curious how the same plant can yield such different results depending on how it's grown. But beyond its culinary variations, asparagus has always been a symbol of refinement. The Romans, for instance, prized it highly, and it said that Emperor Augustus even created what he called the asparagus fleet. So that's to bring the vegetable fresh right to Rome. Right. So they had a fleet for the asparagus. Yeah. That's amazing, right, John?

[John Paul]

It is, it is. So why don't we. Why don't we look at that part next? The Ancient World. Let's explore how asparagus plays in the ancient civilizations that we're all familiar with.

[Patrick Kelly]

I agree. And who doesn't want asparagus in the ancient world. So let's start with ancient Greece. It always starts with ancient Greece, I feel, John. But let me ask you a question. Did you know that the Greeks believed asparagus had sacred and aphrodisiac properties?

[John Paul]

Well, between all the episodes we've done, I'm not surprised at this point that there's more aphrodisiacs.

[Patrick Kelly]

I'm definitely not surprised. I am 100% not surprised. So they revert it not just for its flavor, but also for its biological and medicinal qualities. So even Hippocrates, the father of medicine, recommended it for treating diarrhea and urinary complaints.

[John Paul]

Well, that's pretty fascinating. So basically, it was seen as more than just food. It had a certain divine and medicinal allure. And then, of course, we have the Romans who took things, as usual, to the next level. They loved asparagus as an appetizer alongside their fish dishes. But more than that, Patrick, they were pioneers in asparagus logistics.

[Patrick Kelly]

That's what's cool about it, right, John? Yeah, I mean, indeed itself, Caesar's legions deserve a special mention now. Okay. They brought asparagus back to Europe from the Orient and the Romans even went so far as to freeze it in the Alps for preservation. Now, according to. This is a tough one for me. Everyone, they. Suetonius. Emperor Augustus famously used the phrase quicker than you can cook asparagus to emphasize the need for speed. Talk about a vegetable with imperial flavor. And let's not forget the poets and authors who immoralized it. Immortalized it. Pliny the Elder praised the bountiful asparagus from Ravenna, where three shoots could weigh a Roman pound.

[John Paul]

Wow.

[Patrick Kelly]

Myrtle the epigrammatist compared cultivated asparagus to its wild counterpart, noting John. Okay. Its delicate tastes, which I agree with. Now, clearly asparagus was a gastronomic and cultural icon and its significance was just limited to cuisine. So Roman polymath Marcus Porcius Cato wrote about its cultivation in d' Agricultura around 150 BC. This treat seed provided detailed methods for growing asparagus, many of which remained unchanged until the 19th century. Talk about enduring agricultural practices. Asparagus also left its mark on the art and archaeology of ancient civilizations. Carvings of the plant have been found on a 5000 year old Egyptian frieze, and it appeared in the Roman still life paintings from Pompeii. There are even traces of asparagus on crockery excavated from the pyramid of Saqqara alongside figs and melons. Clearly, it was a prized vegetable across the ancient world, John.

[John Paul]

Oh, obviously. And, and what about the Syrians and Chinese? Right. The ancient Syrians cultivated asparagus while in China it was used symbolically. So they basically, in China they would honor guests by welcome with an asparagus foot bath. Odd but intriguing custom.

[Patrick Kelly]

I would definitely say so myself, John. Now what's fascinating is how is this vegetable so cherished by ancient civilizations, seemingly disappeared after the fall of Rome. It wasn't until the 12th century that asparagus re emerged in Europe and this time classified as an herb.

[John Paul]

Yeah, that's right. That's right. So let's, let's leap forward from that ancient world into the Middle Ages where.

[Patrick Kelly]

Middle Ages, Right.

[John Paul]

It takes a bit of this nose dive. Right. So during the Middle Ages, asparagus all but disappeared from European culinary landscape. And its cultivation as a, as a result was largely forgotten, save for the Arabs, who fortunately kept that flame alive. And trust the Arabs to keep hold of something so valuable. Just as we've seen in other episodes, they were there to kind of pick up the pieces when Europe entered this period of darkness. And so it wasn't really until the Renaissance that asparagus reemerged in Europe. And when it did, it wasn't just food, it was a status symbol. I feel like we see so many patterns when we do these episodes, but lo and behold, asparagus is following a very comparative path to a lot of other products that we've touched on. So by the 16th century, asparagus was gracing the tables of royal and princely courts in France. Louis XIV became particularly obsessed. He adored asparagus so much that he actually commissioned greenhouses to ensure year round supply. And his royal gardeners cultivate what were described as stalks the size of swan feathers. Wow. Big wow.

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[Patrick Kelly]

John, I'm going to tell you something right now. Always so understated, he even dubbed asparagus the queen of vegetables, didn't he?

[John Paul]

He did. He did.

[Patrick Kelly]

That's pretty cool.

[John Paul]

That's. I mean, if you're Sun King, you're going to come up with those sorts of tags for what you love, right? But. But it wasn't just about luxury was believed to have, let's say, special properties. So it was widely regarded even again in this period. Once re emerges as an aphrodisiac. And you have Madame de Pompadour, Louis XV's famous mistress, who was said to favor asparagus for precisely this reason, though not everybody was thrilled about its reputation as an aphrodisiac or what it stood for. So the Catholic Church, for an instance, reportedly banned asparagus from convents, fearing it might inflame the passions of the nuns. You don't want impassioned nuns in the convent. So. A wise precaution perhaps, by the Catholic Church. But asparagus wasn't purely for indulgence. You had herbalists of the time valuing its medicinal properties, using it as a diuretic, a laxative, and even to dissolve kidney stones. And some believed its spear like shape held the key to its powers. And, and this is a nod once again to the Renaissance theory of shape analogy.

[Patrick Kelly]

That's the idea that plants resembling a body part were thought to benefit the specific area, isn't it, John?

[John Paul]

Yeah, basically. So I don't need to really describe why somebody would have thought asparagus would fit that tag. You can use your own mind to figure that out. But Swiss physician Paracelsus championed this concept of. Of Shape analogy. And asparagus, with its elongated form was associated with enhancing passion, which no doubt added to its allure.

[Patrick Kelly]

What does that mean for the people that don't understand that?

[John Paul]

Why don't you just.

[Patrick Kelly]

Because, you know, when I think of what you would assimilate or, you know, you know, replicate, an asparagus stock would be me and your legs. Like, we're tall, we're skinny, we're like that way.

[John Paul]

Sure, why not?

[Patrick Kelly]

Okay. All right, all right, all right. I imagine that made it quite the conversation starter at banquets, John. Yeah, speaking of which, did you know Casanova supposedly included asparagus in his rather legendary seduction repertoire?

[John Paul]

Well, certainly doesn't surprise me in the slightest, especially after the shape analogy concept that's being exercised during this period. And actually. But going to your banquet point, banquets featuring asparagus became really all the rage. Guests were served elaborate asparagus dishes. They were paired with delicacies like oysters, which are also considered an aphrodisiac at this point. And of course, let's not forget the wine to compliment them. So people, this was just aphrodisiac laden events. So it was, it was a fun time to be alive. But by the late 16th century and early 17th centuries, though, refugees from France and the Low Countries that are fleeing the religious persecution settle in England. And with them they bring an agricultural revolution. And these were the first people really to grow root plants on a commercial scale, introducing a variety of vegetables to the English marketplace. And Battersea, on the south bank of the Thames became a hub for this burgeoning trade. And Battersea was transformed by these French and Flemish market gardeners who turned this district into a patchwork of thriving vegetable plots. They played a crucial role in basically feeding London's growing population at this time. And of course, one of their most popular crops was asparagus. And it actually became so closely associated with this area that a local tavern was named the Asparagus. I think it even still exists today. And so asparagus was sold in bunches, just like you're describing at the top of the episode, Patrick. They were still, they were sold in bunches, making it more accessible to ordinary Londoners. And no longer was this just a delicacy for the elite. It began to find slowly its way into kitchens across the capital.

[Patrick Kelly]

Well, and, and that's, and that's amazing in itself, John. So speaking of the elite, there's a rather delightful story about William III of Orange and asparagus, isn't there?

[John Paul]

There is, there is. So William III is said to have introduced Jonathan Swift and William Temple to the Dutch way of eating asparagus served with basically a sauce made of melted butter, hard boiled eggs and ground pepper and nutmeg. And there's our nutmeg again. So if you want to learn more about nutmeg and the English Dutch connection there and listen to our two part series on that and this, this was a quite a culinary statement. So by the 18th cent, asparagus, along with other vegetables like artichokes, had shed its exclusive image and became as common in English households as cauliflower and cabbages. Really remarkable transformation in the availability of this, of this vegetable. But Patrick, this isn't just a story of gastronomy. I'm probably going to slaughter this French town name, but I'm going to try new anyway. Agent. A suburb of Paris famous for its asparagus also became a retreat for impressionist painters. So you have actually Claude Monet who settles there in 1871, and Edouard Manet visited him in 1874. Drawing inspiration from these serene landscapes and vibrant local produce. Produce of the area.

[Patrick Kelly]

John, as I always say, always something. Right. And obviously if it's drawing inspiration from that vibrant local produce, didn't. And I, you know, Monet wasn't just inspired by the scenery, was he? He had a fascination with Flemish and Dutch still life painting, a tradition that often gave humble vegetables like asparagus a starring role.

[John Paul]

Precisely. And actually one Dutch master in particular, Adrian Court, painted a series of these still lives that gave asparagus a peculiar prominence. It's likely that actually Manet had these works in mind when he painted his work titled A Bunch of asparagus in 1880, which was a simple yet evocative study of the vegetable. And we'll post that probably somewhere on our social channel, so. Or you can google it while you're listening, if you're not driving. A bunch of asparagus by Manet.

[Patrick Kelly]

Just a bunch of asparagus, right? Just a bunch of asparagus. A perfect blend of history, art and fresh produce. Am I right? Seriously. From the fields of Battersea to the art saloons of Paris, asparagus carved out a curious multifaceted legacy in the Middle Ages and Renaissance.

[John Paul]

And yet, Patrick, it's remarkable really, I mean, how this humble vegetable weathered the storms of history, always somehow finding its way at a seat at the table. Now we kind of covered Europe, let's. Should we go on to America next?

[Patrick Kelly]

I, I think, I mean, I think we should. It's probably the best thing the, the. I Would say the curious case of asparagus and the odorous of urine, too. Right, John? That's always something we hear. Am I right? Yeah, we always hear that.

[John Paul]

Association asparagus.

[Patrick Kelly]

Right. I'm just. I'm telling you, like, your pee smells like asparagus. We hear it all the time. But, yeah, let's talk a little bit. And before we go there, you know, backing it up, let's touch on one of life's greatest mysteries, okay. Or perhaps miseries. The peculiar smell of asparagus laid in urine. It's been puzzling to people for centuries, hasn't it, John?

[John Paul]

Yeah, of course.

[Patrick Kelly]

As far back as 1702, French botanist and chemist Louis Lamry was laminating or lamenting this phenomenon. He noted that asparagus spears cause a filthy and disagreeable smell in the urine, as everybody knows. Fast forward to 1781, and none other than Benjamin Franklin weighed in on this delicate matter. In a letter, he complained that a few stems of asparagus eaten shall give our urine a disagreeable odor. Eve, ever the optimist, Franklin hopes scientists might one day invent a drug to turn that foul smell into something as pleasant as perfume. I disagree with that. I'd rather have my pee smell like urine. Like urine. I'd rather have my pee smelling asparagus.

[John Paul]

Well, if nothing more, it's a classic Franklin observation, right? Equal part wit and practicality. But of course, today we. We know what the culprit is, right? It's the asparagusic acid. Asparagusic acid.

[Patrick Kelly]

Ah, the wonders of modern chemistry.

[John Paul]

Oh, yes.

[Patrick Kelly]

Asperg. Aspera. Aspera gustic. Asparagastic. Look, I mean, think about it like that's. That's why we don't know about it. Asparagusic acid itself is odorless, but once metabolized, it breaks down into sulfur, containing compounds like methanol and demethyl sulfide. These are the smelly offenders detectable within just 15 minutes of eating asparagus. And here's the twist. While everyone who eats asparagus produces these compounds, not everyone can smell them. It's a fascinating quirk of genetics. Scientists believe it all comes down to whether you possess or you possess the specific olfactory receptors needed to detect that scent. So, John, if you don't smell anything after a plated asparagus, you're either lucky or missing out on one of life's more peculiar sensory experiences.

[John Paul]

Well, I think I'll take my chances with luck on that one.

[Patrick Kelly]

But.

[John Paul]

But, but this unique characteristic certainly has added to Asparagus mystique over the centuries, that, that's for sure. It's not, it's not just a vegetable. It's a bit of a scientific enigma.

[Patrick Kelly]

I mean, an enigma that's been delighting or tormenting, you know, dinners since at least the 18th century. And, and who knows, right? Like maybe one day Franklin's dream of asparagus scented perfume will come true.

[John Paul]

Well, I hope not. One can only. Well, I, I will say one can only hope, but. Right, let's, let's, let's take a quick break here to catch our breath or our sense of smell, depending on where you are. And when we return, we'll head to America. We'll be right back. This episode of the History of Fresh Produce is brought to you in part by Cornell University. Patrick, what an amazing institution in an amazing state, if I may say so.

[Patrick Kelly]

Absolutely. The brightest minds in food are developing new ways to improve food supply chain efficiencies, marketing strategies to increase consumption and so much more. I mean, John, we've seen it time and time again. The university produces the future leaders of the produce industry.

[John Paul]

That's right. And it's really no surprise given their world renowned faculty. Did you know these programs are not just for college students?

[Patrick Kelly]

Really?

[John Paul]

Their executive development programs, like the one with the International Fresh Produce association, help career professionals level up their skills for sure.

[Patrick Kelly]

And let's not forget about the impressive research being performed at Cornell.

[John Paul]

Exactly right. So if you are looking for the next step in your professional career, visit Cornell University's food Industry management program at Dyson Cornell. Edu Outreach Fimp. Hello everybody. Welcome back to the History of Fresh Produce. We just got finished talking about urine or asparagus odor. Urine. And we took a little detour from our way from Europe to America. But now we're going to get into America, Patrick. After that little other way around. And when we think of European settlers in America's. Patrick, obviously we tend to picture them, you know, armed with muskets, maybe some bibles, the occasional bottle of brandy. But they also brought along something far less ominous. Right? The asparagus roots.

[Patrick Kelly]

Well, John, this is what I'm going to tell you. There's, there's, there's roots in everything that we're, we're involved in. Am I right? And I'll tell you, it's, it's a whirlwind. And I will say you're right on, right on it. So by the early 1650s, okay. Asparagus had already made its way to North American gardens, adapting quickly to the New World's conditions. One of the earliest recorded mentions comes from the Dutch settlement of New Netherland, where asparagus took root quite literally, thanks to men like Adrian van der Donach. That's a good one. Right. Was an entire an early settler, a legal official, and a man with an eye for detail. He arrived in new Netherland in 1642, where he mingled with both Dutch colonists and the indigenous people. So his Bescher van neue Netherland, or description of New Netherland, published in 1655, offers a fascinating glimpse into the life in the colony. And asparagus, it turns out, had already become a part of that life. Van der Donk recorded its cultivation in local herb gardens alongside other crops, but brought all from Europe. His account not only documented farming practices, but also encouraged others to join him in developing the colony. JOHN so asparagus, like the Dutch settlers themselves, had a transatlantic story. And van der Donink influence extended beyond farmy. His estate north of Manhattan earned him the title of junkier, which eventually evolved in the name of junkers. The Dutch weren't alone in their love for asparagus, though. In English, settlers also embraced it. William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, noted its success in his colony as early as 1685. And here's the twist. John Penn had visited the Netherlands in 1677, where he likely encountered Dutch asparagus cultivation firsthand. A lovely connection, don't you think? John oh, yeah. So by the 19th century, asparagus had moved beyond the herb garden and into the commercial market. It found a home in California and the Midwest, where the climate was perfect for large scale cultivation. And soon it became a staple of springtime American cuisine. Asparagus recipes appeared in cookbooks like Fanny Farmer's Boston Cooking school book in 1896. Whether served on toast, in soups or drenched in hollandaise sauce, asparagus cemented its place on American tables. But here's the thing, John. Asparagus just wasn't another vegetable, okay? It was a marker of the seasons. Its short growing period meant that, like the first sweet corn of summer or pumpkins in autumn, it was eagerly anticipated, depending on where you lived. Asparagus season ran from early March in California to early May in Michigan, which remains the top domestic producers to this day.

[John Paul]

Yeah, it's, it's really extraordinary how this once European vegetable became such a beloved part of American culture. And we've seen that obviously, with a few other crops, but here it is again with the asparagus, and it's just a perfect example of how food connects us to our environment, our history, and ultimately our shared experience of time itself.

[Patrick Kelly]

Right, and that, John, is the beauty of asparagus. A humble stock with rich history.

[John Paul]

That's right.

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[John Paul]

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[Patrick Kelly]

Why are there ridges on Reese's peanut butter cups? Probably so they never slip from her hands.

[Hellman's Mayo Advertiser]

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[Patrick Kelly]

I'd lose it. Luckily, Reese has thought about that. Wonder what else they think about. Probably chocolate and peanut of butter.

[John Paul]

Let's turn our attention back to Europe. Right? So there's more going on on that side of the world. And more specifically Germany, who has a particular love affair with asparagus.

[Patrick Kelly]

Oh, yeah.

[John Paul]

And so listening to everything we've talked about, asparagus may still seem like a simple vegetable at the end of the day, but in Germany, it is so much more. And it's known as the Koninkleischemuce, or royal vegetable. And this love affair is a reason, Patrick, this goes back to centuries. So let's tell that story. So as early as 1565, asparagus, or spargo, made its debut in a German prince's pleasure garden. Cataloged as, quote, delightful fare for lovers of food. End quote. And at that time, it was basically a delicacy reserved exclusively for nobility. So imagine gilded banquet tables, silver cutlery designed specifically for the slender stock. It was just the ultimate status symbol. But fast forward a few centuries, and by the mid-1800s, Germany democratized its obsession with Spargel. And no longer just the preserve of kings and princes, it became a staple for the average German. And then you fast forward a little further to today, and Spagel Zeit or Spargel Zeitgeist. Asparagus season is a cultural phenomenon. And so from April to, I believe it's about June 24, the Christian feast day of St. John the entire country just goes completely mad for it. And it's quite a spectacle. So in towns like Schroberhausen, Schweitzinger and Abensberg, you have the spagel, which takes center stage. And what I mean by that is that restaurants just completely revamped their menus to showcase asparagus at every conceivable dish. There are asparagus tours, there are asparagus competitions, and Patrick, there's even the crowning of an asparagus king or queen based rather whimsically on the size of their stalk. And let's not forget about Schweitzinger's famous statue of the Spagel Frauen. And that's a statue honoring the women who toil in the fields during this brief but intense harvest. And it really is a community effort. It's deeply tied to the land and this tradition in Germany. Yet Germany's history with Spargel hasn't always been smooth and making an appearance. The not so much friends of the show, the Nazis, ever pragmatic, deemed the asparagus to be too labor intensive for its caloric return. So in, In World War II, the young women of the Brunt Dautre Medel who once picked Spargel were reassigned to munition factories. And after the war in East Germany, communist policies prioritized staple crops like wheat potatoes over these, what they considered luxury vegetables. But Spargel was, was, was resilient. It was, didn't give up. So even under communist rule, it endured in these home gardens. And so you have these enthusiasts that would barter, sell, and occasionally even smuggle the asparagus into West Berlin. And so when reunification came in 1990, Western, Western Spargel farmers ventured east to reclaim this, this beloved crop, restoring its rightful place in the soil. And so it's not just the history, right? It's. It's the taste that has solidified its status. You know, the story is one thing, but if, if it's not tasting good and it's not enjoyable to eat, it's, you know, there's no real point in keeping going. But. So the German spagel is a variety of a white asparagus. And as we kind of mentioned at the beginning of the show, it. This, this asparagus grow underground to prevent chlorophyll from turning green. So to the untrained eye, it might resemble this limp larvae, but Germans call it white gold. And this spagel, it's thicker, it's fibrous, and when boiled just right, subtly sweet. And it's an entirely different experience from its green cousin. I can't say firsthand, you know, that I've had this, but this is what I've read. And so it's a delicacy, and it's one that Germans pay really dearly for, sometimes more per kilo than meat. Just wrap your head around that one for a second, and it's a reminder of how food traditions, no matter the upheavals of history, remain deeply rooted in one's culture. So whether it's banquets in 16th century castles or on modern German dinner tables, asparagus has always held a certain regal charm. And Spargel zeit is not just about eating. It's about celebrating heritage, resilience, and quite simply, the joy of good food. It's truly the Koninklish kamusa. Right. That term that the Germans give this fruit or this vegetable. But Patrick, what. Turn our heads back to asparagus in America. What is asparagus today? Because obviously you're. You're one that buys a lot of asparagus every week. I know. I see a lot of it in stores today, but from what I understand being within the industry, a lot of it actually comes outside the country. So let's explore asparagus in America and why we see so much of it coming outside of America.

[Patrick Kelly]

Yeah, so true. And I always laugh because people always want to say they want their food to be in the United States, which is totally true. We definitely want to support, you know, American farmers. But, you know, I always laugh and I always say, like, do you realize where, like, 70 to 80% of your asparagus comes from? And, you know, it does. It comes from places like Chile, Peru, and, you know, the Michigans and the, you know, the Californians are very small programs, still very impactful to the supply chain for North America. But definitely, you know, it's a. It is. It's a. It's a small fraction and isn't even economical to grow asparagus in the United States, you know, versus the actual imports. And, and sometimes too, John, like the seasons counteract with each other. So nafta, right? So the North American Free Trade Agreement, asparagus and the war on drugs is what we're going to talk about. And John, I never thought asparagus would lead us into a discussion about trade agreements and the war on drugs, but you know what? Here we are. By the late 20th century, this humble vegetable was swept into the swirling forces of globalization. Okay. Asparagus is a case study in how modern agriculture has been reshaped by politics, economics and international agreements. So let's start with nafta, the North American Free Trade Agreement, which you heard me say, which went into effect in 1994.

[John Paul]

Yes, the NAFTA. That's that notorious deal that removed tariffs and kurch free trade between the U.S. canada, Mexico, and really like you said for agriculture, it was revolutionary.

[Patrick Kelly]

Absolutely.

[John Paul]

Landscape.

[Patrick Kelly]

Absolutely, John. It allowed for a flood of imported goods. Okay. And guess what that was. Including asparagus.

[John Paul]

Yeah.

[Patrick Kelly]

So back in 1970, he said, back in 1970, like we're going back to like 150 BC. We're like back in 1970. In 1970, the US barely imported any asparagus at all. But by 1999, annual imports had soared to over 150 million pounds. By 2010, that number had doubled again. With more asparagus in supermarkets and now available year round, more people ate more asparagus. By the mid-1900s, the United States had become the world's largest importer of asparagus. And by 2007, it was importing more than next five largest importing countries combined. While domestic production of fresh asparagus has gone down, in US Asparagus exports plummeted.

[John Paul]

And all this asparagus, where, where was it coming from?

[Patrick Kelly]

Largely from two places, Mexico and Peru. But Peru's asparagus industry, interestingly enough, owes much of its existence to the US Government's war on drugs.

[John Paul]

Well, that's quite a leap. So how did that happen?

[Patrick Kelly]

Well, in 1991, the first Bush administration introduced the Andine Trade Preference act, or the atpa. It aimed to reduce coca farming, which could be processed into cocaine in countries like Peru. By offering trade incentives for farmers to grow alternate crops. Asparagus became one of those alternatives, especially in Peru's Ica Valley.

[John Paul]

The Ica Valley. Okay, so that Ica Valley, which for those that are listening that know those, it's actually one of the driest places on earth. I believe they receive something like an average of 0.02 inches of rain per year, so not much. So that seems unlikely candidate for asparagus farming, doesn't it?

[Patrick Kelly]

Unlikely, yes. But it's perpetually sunny climate made it ideal. So with the help of the extensive drip irrigation systems fed by the region's aquifer, Peru began exporting millions of pounds of asparagus annually to the U.S. by the mid-1990s, Peru had become a leading global supplier.

[John Paul]

But Patrick, there's a darker side to this green gold rush, isn't there?

[Patrick Kelly]

Ah, there is over exploitation of the Ica Valleys Aquifer has created a water crisis. While agribusinesses thrived, local communities often struggled to access basic water, though for drinking and sanitation, some survive on as little as 10 liters a day, far below the World Health Organization recommended minimum. And yet, stopping the asparagus trade would be disastrous for the local economy. The asparagus industry employs a vast number of people in Inka, but most of them work on temporary contracts and remain below poverty line. The ecological and social costs are just, Honestly, John, they're just staggering. But the economic lifeline provides complicates and potential solutions. And I'll tell you what, it's a grim paradox, okay? As a thriving export industry built on a collapsing ecosystem, like, what a great way to promote, right? And as this climate changed and El Nino worsened water shortages, the situation grows even more dire. When that happens, the World bank has pledged millions of irrigation projects. But as local organizations argue, the real issue lies in controlling demand, not just increasing supply. John?

[John Paul]

Yeah, it really is a complex and deeply human story and not how I expected our story on asparagus to end today, but here we are. But it just shows you again, this, you know, just how significant that trade agreement had in this case on asparagus, and how, you know, in ica, they're kind of just trapped in this cycle and they can't get out. And it's long term. Something's going to have to give because either water is going to run out or, or, or, or, or, or trade agreements are going to change. Who knows? But it's, it's complicated. And yeah, it really rounds off that full story of asparagus up to today. You know, you really have everything, you have. We had some love in there, we had some comedy, we had some drama, some sex. It's, it's, it's quite a vegetable, the asparagus with quite a complicated, rich history.

[Patrick Kelly]

I mean, it sounds great to me.

[John Paul]

Yeah.

[Patrick Kelly]

Makes me want to buy more.

[John Paul]

So you're part of that problem.

[Narrator/Announcer]

Dang it.

[Patrick Kelly]

And listen, I've only, I mean, listen, my pee does smell like asparagus. But I will tell you, you know, if you look at those sensual, you know, senses and the sensations that come with that, right? I will tell you, some people don't smell it at all, like they said. So like, I, I've literally been like, oh my gosh, like, my pee smells like asparagus. And then you have someone like my daughter, they're like, I don't smell anything.

[John Paul]

Yeah, right.

[Patrick Kelly]

So your senses again, even I, I, we laugh about this. Because, you know, I talk about this all the time. You might be able to smell someone else's smell, Right. Whether it's pee or. Or, or something else, right?

[John Paul]

Yep.

[Patrick Kelly]

But sometimes you can't.

[John Paul]

Yeah.

[Patrick Kelly]

So I love that they've talked about that. That that's that sensation. You might not have it. So when someone, you walk out of the bathroom and you're like, whoa, that person might have never even smelt that same smell that you smelled. Because each of our, I would say our chemical and how we are wired will let us know that, Right?

[John Paul]

Yeah. Well, I have a terrible sense of smell, so I will not smell anything.

[Patrick Kelly]

Which I smell it all. Listen, I can smell your baby going in its diaper from New York. Okay. Like, I can be like, John, you.

[John Paul]

Changing the kid, you enjoy that superpower.

[Patrick Kelly]

I don't. It is a superpower I've had with all my kids. I could be in the bedroom and be like, I think someone craft herself.

[John Paul]

On that note, that is going to conclude our. Our history of the asparagus today. As always, thank you for the support and. And listening to our storytelling of the history of fresh produce. And until next time, you can decide to become a member of the history of fresh produce club. Yes, if you are a member already, we won't go into the deep details of that, but definitely a club you want to be part of if you are enjoying being a listener of the regular lineup. And. And until next time, it'll be goodbye.

[Patrick Kelly]

For me, John Papp, and goodbye for me, Patrick Kelly.

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[John Paul]

Com.