HISTORY This Week: America’s Restaurants Meet the Michelin Man

Episode Summary: Released February 17, 2025

In this compelling episode of HISTORY This Week, hosted by Sally Helm and produced by The HISTORY® Channel in collaboration with Back Pocket Studios, listeners are taken on an insightful journey into the transformative moment when the prestigious Michelin Guide made its inaugural entry into New York City's vibrant culinary scene. Titled "America’s Restaurants Meet the Michelin Man," the episode delves into the profound impact this event had on American gastronomy, the chefs striving for excellence, and the broader food culture in the United States.

Introduction to the Michelin Guide in New York

The episode opens with a vivid portrayal of Bebendum—the iconic Michelin Man—embarking on his exploratory mission across New York City. From Central Park to Times Square, Bebendum symbolizes Michelin's foray into the American culinary landscape. The narrative sets the stage for understanding how a century-old European tradition was poised to redefine dining standards in one of the world's foremost food capitals.

Notable Quote:

"Bibendum, or okay, a person dressed as Bebendum, has been all over New York City... because Bebendum's employer, Michelin, don't just make tires. They also publish the most famous restaurant guide in the world."
— Sally Helm [04:00]

Background: The Michelin Guide and Its Legacy

The episode provides a historical backdrop of the Michelin Guide, tracing its origins to early 20th-century France. Initially a strategic marketing tool by the Michelin tire company to encourage automobile travel (and consequently tire purchases), the guide evolved into a revered authority in restaurant ratings. By 1926, Michelin had introduced its now-famous star system, categorizing restaurants with one to three stars based on quality, creativity, and consistency.

Notable Quote:

"The Michelin Guide started as a guide of where you can drive in your automobile and potentially wear out your tires... so you could get more people on the road."
— Kathleen Squires [08:24]

Michelin's Expansion into New York City

In the early 2000s, rumors began circulating within New York's culinary circles about Michelin's impending evaluation of the city's restaurants. Despite initial skepticism and cultural tensions—exemplified by anti-French sentiments during the Iraq War era—Michelin's entry was met with a mix of excitement, nervousness, and resistance among local chefs and restaurateurs.

Notable Quotes:

"I thought, oh, this is pretty good. I like the idea of Michelin coming to New York because I thought it would bring something new."
— Eric Ripert [05:31]

"I don't need your validation from Europe. We're doing just fine here."
— Kathleen Squires [16:11]

Profiles in Culinary Excellence: Eric Ripert and Thomas Keller

Central to the narrative are influential chefs like Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin and Thomas Keller of Per Se. Ripert, whose early exposure to the Michelin Guide in Europe shaped his culinary aspirations, views Michelin's introduction to New York as an opportunity to elevate American dining standards. Keller, on the other hand, exemplifies the intense pressure and prestige associated with earning Michelin stars.

Notable Quotes:

"We were looking in the region where we were going on vacation for the three stars... I was dreaming, I was like, this is amazing what they're doing."
— Eric Ripert [10:14]

"Your best marketing is a great customer experience... that is how you build a successful restaurant."
— Peter Esmond [13:39]

The Michelin Inspection Process and Criteria

The episode provides an in-depth look at how Michelin inspectors operate—anonymously dining alone, meticulously evaluating dishes based on five key criteria: quality of ingredients, mastery of flavor and cooking techniques, harmony of flavors, consistency between visits, and the personality or unique point of view of the chef. This rigorous assessment ensures that Michelin stars represent unparalleled excellence.

Notable Quote:

"It's all about the food on the plate. Not necessarily the service, not necessarily the atmosphere."
— Kathleen Squires [19:33]

Release of the Michelin Guide and Immediate Reactions

When the first Michelin Guide for New York City was unveiled in November 2005, it marked a seismic shift in the local dining scene. Out of 1,200 restaurants evaluated, only 39 received stars, with culinary powerhouses like Le Bernardin and Per Se earning three stars—the highest accolade. This revelation was met with jubilation among awardees and skepticism or disappointment from those overlooked.

Notable Quotes:

"We have done it. We're really shocked."
— Eric Ripert [24:21]

"The 2006 New York City Michelin Guide... only four restaurants, including Per Se and Le Bernardin, are given three stars."
— Sally Helm [25:03]

Impact on American Food Culture and Ongoing Controversies

Michelin's entry ignited a competitive fervor within New York's restaurants, influencing chefs to pursue higher standards and fostered a culture where dining became both a battleground and a celebrated art form. However, the Guide's initial lack of diversity—favoring predominantly European cuisines—sparked critiques regarding its understanding of New York's eclectic culinary landscape. Additionally, the rise of digital platforms like Yelp introduced new dynamics, challenging Michelin's authoritative stance.

Notable Quotes:

"Look at what's happened since Michelin came to New York. Food and dining became more of a competition, more than enjoyment in some ways."
— Kathleen Squires [29:49]

"Just because some guy on TikTok likes a chicken salad sandwich... it doesn't really mean that it's the best chicken salad sandwich in the world."
— Kathleen Squires [28:45]

Enduring Legacy and Adaptation in the Digital Age

Despite initial criticisms, the Michelin Guide has continued to evolve, incorporating a more diverse array of restaurants and expanding its reach beyond New York. The Guide's prestige remains influential, though it navigates the challenges posed by the democratization of restaurant reviews through social media and online platforms. Notably, some chefs have pushed back against Michelin's influence, citing the intense pressure and potential commercialization that accompanies such accolades.

Notable Quotes:

"I don't know how he's going to know, but he made a big fuss over that might be publicity stunt."
— Kathleen Squires [27:28]

"Michelin can't ignore the Internet. It's a very tough position to be in."
— Peter Esmond [29:13]

Conclusion: The Enduring Power of Michelin Stars

Le Bernardin's chef, Eric Ripert, remains a symbol of Michelin's lasting impact on American haute cuisine. While acknowledging the mixed opinions surrounding Michelin stars, Ripert emphasizes the Guide's role in upholding culinary excellence. As the episode wraps up, it underscores how Michelin's arrival in New York not only reshaped individual careers but also redefined the very essence of dining in America.

Notable Quote:

"Some people like it, some people dislike it... When we're looking at standards, Michelin is very much right on."
— Eric Ripert [31:16]

Key Takeaways:

• Michelin's Strategic Move: Initially a European phenomenon, Michelin's expansion into New York signified a strategic move to influence and elevate American culinary standards.

• Culinary Excellence and Pressure: Achieving Michelin stars became a pinnacle of success for chefs, accompanied by significant pressure to maintain exceptional standards.

• Cultural and Culinary Impact: The Guide's presence fostered a more competitive and quality-driven food culture in New York, though it faced challenges related to diversity and modern review platforms.

• Enduring Influence: Despite controversies and evolving dining landscapes, Michelin stars continue to hold substantial sway in the global culinary arena.

This episode effectively captures the intricate interplay between tradition and modernity, highlighting how a century-old European guide could so profoundly influence the dynamic and diverse food scene of New York City.