Podcast Title: Homing In
Episode: Dame Zandra Rhodes: the fashion legend on living a life in Technicolor
Host/Author: Matt Gibbard and The Modern House
Release Date: March 11, 2025
Introduction
In this captivating episode of "Homing In," Matt Gibbard invites listeners into the vibrant and eclectic world of Dame Zandra Rhodes, a legendary figure in fashion and textile design. Recorded just before Christmas, the episode radiates warmth and color, much like Zandra's own living space in Bermondsey, southeast London. Throughout the conversation, Zandra shares her remarkable life story, from her dramatic birth during World War II to her illustrious career in fashion, her unique personal style, and her enduring optimism despite facing significant health challenges.
Early Life and Family Influences
Zandra Rhodes opens up about her unconventional beginnings, sharing that she was born in 1940 amidst an air raid in Chatham, Kent. Her father, described as a "rough diamond" reminiscent of Elf Garnet ([08:58] MM:SS), was a lorry driver who clashed with her mother's artistic ambitions. Despite a tumultuous family environment, Zandra credits her mother as the primary influence shaping her future. Her mother, a ballroom dancing champion and seamstress, infused Zandra's upbringing with creativity and high expectations.
Zandra Rhodes ([07:31] 07:31): "I am an extension of her ambition."
Zandra recounts how her mother's encouragement allowed her to pursue art passionately from a young age, contrasting with her sister's more conventional career path.
Educational Journey and Career Beginnings
Zandra's passion for art led her to attend art college, where she initially aspired to become a book illustrator. However, under the mentorship of Barbara Brown, she discovered her love for textile design. Despite graduating with first-class honors, Zandra faced early setbacks when her work was initially rejected by prominent designers like Emilio Pucci. Undeterred, she pivoted to garment design, leading to a pivotal encounter with Diana Vreeland of American Vogue.
Zandra Rhodes ([17:42] 17:42): "I dressed Lauren Bacall and Jackie Onassis...," showcasing her breakthrough in the American fashion scene.
This serendipitous meeting with Vreeland marked the beginning of Zandra's international acclaim, as her designs began to grace the likes of Freddie Mercury and Andy Warhol, solidifying her status in the avant-garde fashion world.
Rise to Fame and Iconic Collaborations
Zandra's career flourished in America before returning to the UK, where she continued to influence fashion trends. Her collaboration with Freddie Mercury is particularly notable, highlighting her innovative approach to design:
Zandra Rhodes ([19:37] 19:37): "That was a bridal piece that he had."
Zandra describes the memorable experience of designing for Mercury, emphasizing the organic and authentic interactions that characterized her relationships with her clients. Additionally, her interactions with cultural icons like Salvador Dali and Andy Warhol further underscore her integral role in the creative circles of her time.
Personal Style and Creative Expression
A significant portion of the conversation delves into Zandra's distinctive personal style, characterized by her signature pink hair and consistent makeup. She explains this as a form of self-expression and a "suit of armor," allowing her to present herself confidently to the world.
Zandra Rhodes ([38:49] 38:49): "I always make sure I'm made up with jewelry and my hair done...represent myself in some manner or other."
Zandra's home serves as a direct extension of her creative spirit. The vibrant colors and eclectic decor are not just aesthetic choices but reflections of her identity and artistic philosophy. Her Bermondsey residence, designed by Ricardo Liguretta, is a testament to her belief that a designer's living space should inspire and represent their work.
Current Home and Creative Space
Zandra recounts the transformation of a cash and carry building in Bermondsey into a multifaceted space housing her Fashion Textile Museum, studio, and residential flats. The building's bold colors—orange, pink, and blue—mirror her flamboyant style and create an inviting environment for both herself and her guests.
Zandra Rhodes ([22:47] 22:47): "I just feel that if you're a designer, you should often live design as well."
This space not only serves as her personal sanctuary but also as a hub for creativity and collaboration, fostering connections with young designers and cultural enthusiasts.
Health Challenges and Resilience
In a deeply personal segment, Zandra shares her battle with cancer, diagnosed in 2020 with a grim prognosis of six months to live. Through determination and innovative treatment—immunotherapy—she defied the odds and regained her health. This experience reinforced her optimistic outlook on life and her relentless drive to continue her creative endeavors.
Zandra Rhodes ([44:29] 44:29): "Since then we've been sending work to Los Angeles County Museum, the Metropolitan. We're working with the V and A now where stuff's going."
Her resilience is further reflected in her ongoing projects and the establishment of the Sandra Rose Foundation, aimed at preserving and promoting her extensive body of work.
Legacy and Future Endeavors
Zandra is focused on ensuring her legacy through collaborations with prestigious institutions like the Victoria and Albert Museum and Cooper Hewitt in New York. She expresses a strong desire for her textiles to be remembered and studied, highlighting her commitment to inspiring future generations of designers.
Zandra Rhodes ([50:05] 50:05): "I hope my textiles will be my great legacy."
Looking ahead, Zandra is enthusiastic about upcoming projects, including new book ideas, textile collections, and further museum collaborations. Her unwavering passion and forward-thinking approach underscore her enduring influence in the fashion world.
Conclusion
Dame Zandra Rhodes' life is a vivid tapestry of creativity, resilience, and relentless passion. From her colorful upbringing and groundbreaking career to her vibrant home and unyielding optimism, Zandra embodies the essence of living a life in technicolor. This episode of "Homing In" offers listeners a profound glimpse into the heart and soul of a true fashion icon, inspiring all to embrace their uniqueness and pursue their passions with unwavering dedication.
Notable Quotes:
- Zandra Rhodes ([07:31] 07:31): "I am an extension of her ambition."
- Zandra Rhodes ([17:42] 17:42): "I dressed Lauren Bacall and Jackie Onassis..."
- Zandra Rhodes ([22:47] 22:47): "I just feel that if you're a designer, you should often live design as well."
- Zandra Rhodes ([38:49] 38:49): "I always make sure I'm made up with jewelry and my hair done...represent myself in some manner or other."
- Zandra Rhodes ([44:29] 44:29): "Since then we've been sending work to Los Angeles County Museum, the Metropolitan. We're working with the V and A now where stuff's going."
This structured and detailed summary captures the essence of Zandra Rhodes' life and career as discussed in the podcast, providing valuable insights and memorable quotes for those yet to listen.
