Homing In: Episode with Ruth Rogers - London’s Favourite Chef on Creating an Iconic House

Podcast: Homing In
Hosts: Matt Gibberd and The Modern House
Guest: Ruth Rogers
Release Date: July 25, 2024

Introduction

In the inaugural episode of "Homing In," host Matt Gibberd engages with Ruth Rogers, the acclaimed chef renowned for founding the River Cafe in London. This episode delves deep into Ruth's personal journey, her illustrious career, and the intricate relationship between her life and the spaces she inhabits. Through her stories, listeners gain insight into how Ruth's homes have shaped her identity and fostered a nurturing environment for culinary talents.

Early Life and Influences

Ruth Rogers begins by recounting her upbringing in Monticello, a small town north of New York City, part of the "Borscht Belt," an area historically known for its hotels catering to Jewish immigrants. Her father, a doctor with a passion for contemporary art, played a significant role in fostering Ruth's appreciation for aesthetics and creativity.

Ruth Rogers (04:52): "I think that our house was pretty dire because we lived on a main road opposite a gas station... but we always played in the woods. My father was really interested in contemporary art, which influenced my life significantly."

Her father's art collection, though modest, left a lasting impression on Ruth, embedding a deep-seated love for art and design from a young age.

Formative Years and Moving to London

At 19, Ruth made a pivotal move to London, marking the beginning of her transatlantic journey. This relocation was driven by a combination of personal aspirations and the vibrant cultural milieu of the late 1960s. It was during this time she met Richard Rogers, an architect who would become her husband and creative partner.

Ruth Rogers (09:07): "We knew that time I was working at Penguin Books. Richard and Renzo Piano were working on projects, and the competition to design the Pompidou Centre was our big break."

Winning the competition to design the Pompidou Centre was a monumental event for Richard, catapulting him into architectural prominence. This success was a turning point that influenced Ruth's subsequent ventures, including the founding of the River Cafe.

Founding the River Cafe

The genesis of the River Cafe was born out of a desire to create an authentic Italian dining experience in London. Ruth, with no formal restaurant experience, partnered with Rose Gray to transform a modest space into a culinary haven.

Ruth Rogers (15:58): "The key to our success was being small and limited. Restrictions helped us create rather than hinder us."

Their approach was grounded in simplicity, open kitchens, and a familial atmosphere, which fostered creativity and mentorship. The River Cafe became renowned for its nurturing environment, attracting and developing some of the world's most celebrated chefs, including Jamie Oliver and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall.

Design Philosophy and Home Integration

Ruth's discussion with Matt Gibberd highlights the seamless integration of home design and culinary spaces. The River Cafe's layout, featuring open kitchens and transparent spaces, mirrored Ruth's personal aesthetic of visibility and openness.

Ruth Rogers (18:44): "We wanted a visible kitchen so that it didn't become lonely or mystified. It was about creating a democratic space where everyone could see and interact."

This philosophy extended to her personal home in London, an iconic modern house transformed to reflect both functionality and aesthetic appeal. The home, described as a blend of heritage and modern design, features expansive glass walls, vibrant colors, and a double-height living space that encourages openness and light.

Ruth Rogers (37:07): "I walk up the stairs every single night and I still probably feel, 40 years later, slightly gasp, that it's our house."

Challenges and Resilience

A significant portion of the conversation revolves around the tragic loss of Rose Gray and its impact on Ruth and the River Cafe. Despite the immense emotional toll, Ruth emphasizes the importance of carrying on as a tribute to Rose's legacy.

Ruth Rogers (22:39): "The greatest tribute to Rose would be to carry on. We worked 25 years to create the River Cafe, and we didn't want to close it."

The support from the culinary community was pivotal during this challenging period, reinforcing the familial bonds Ruth had cultivated within the restaurant.

Cultivating Talent and Community

Ruth attributes the River Cafe's success as a breeding ground for culinary talent to its non-hierarchical structure and emphasis on trust and versatility.

Ruth Rogers (24:50): "We don't have a traditional hierarchy of sous chefs. We teach people to perform and cook different things, fostering optimism and trust."

Her inclusive hiring practices, welcoming individuals from diverse backgrounds and experiences, further enhanced the restaurant's dynamic and innovative environment.

Personal Aesthetics and Legacy

Ruth's aesthetic sensibilities are deeply intertwined with her life and work. She appreciates color, simplicity, and meaningful possessions that reflect personal and professional relationships.

Ruth Rogers (41:53): "I love color, maybe not as traffic lighty as Richard. I like simple things and meaningful possessions, like my grandchildren's drawings next to my bed."

Her home embodies these principles, serving as both a sanctuary and a space that inspires creativity and communal living.

Reflections and Future Aspirations

Looking ahead, Ruth envisions maintaining her love for urban life, emphasizing the importance of light, accessibility, and community in her future spaces.

Ruth Rogers (41:02): "I love being near the street, being able to walk out and buy a liter of milk or meet a friend down the road. I love urban life."

Her reflections underscore the profound connection between her environments and her personal well-being, highlighting the essence of what "home" signifies in her life.

Conclusion

Ruth Rogers' narrative is a testament to the profound interplay between personal spaces and professional endeavors. Her journey from a small town in New York to becoming a culinary icon in London encapsulates themes of resilience, creativity, and the enduring significance of home. Through her story, listeners gain a deeper appreciation for how the spaces we inhabit shape our identities and legacies.

Notable Quotes:

• Ruth Rogers (04:52): "Our house was pretty dire because we lived on a main road opposite a gas station... but we always played in the woods."
• Ruth Rogers (15:58): "The key to our success was being small and limited. Restrictions helped us create rather than hinder us."
• Ruth Rogers (18:44): "We wanted a visible kitchen so that it didn't become lonely or mystified."
• Ruth Rogers (22:39): "The greatest tribute to Rose would be to carry on."
• Ruth Rogers (24:50): "We don't have a traditional hierarchy of sous chefs. We teach people to perform and cook different things."
• Ruth Rogers (37:07): "I walk up the stairs every single night and I still probably feel, 40 years later, slightly gasp, that it's our house."
• Ruth Rogers (41:53): "I love color, maybe not as traffic lighty as Richard. I like simple things and meaningful possessions."
• Ruth Rogers (41:02): "I love being near the street, being able to walk out and buy a liter of milk or meet a friend down the road. I love urban life."

Additional Resources:

• To explore more about Ruth Rogers and the River Cafe, visit The Modern House.

• For visual insights into the spaces discussed, check out the Modern House website linked in the podcast's show notes.

Produced by:
Feast Collective and The Modern House
Music by: Father

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