This episode is all about training for ice climbing, mixed, drytooling and speed.

To discuss these diverse disciplines, we’re joined by Kevin Lindlau, Aneta Loužecká, and Zac St. Jules and dive into how they think about and structure their training for their respective specialties.

Kevin is a leading roof-climbing drytooler and the first American to send D16, Aneta was last year's World Cup Champion in speed, and Zac is a strong all-around ice and mixed climber who manages to send hard while also working full-time and raising 4 kids.

In this episode, we discuss:

🧊 Each climber’s unique journey and some surprisingly common training mistakes
🧊 Why defining your goals is so important
🧊 How to break things down to first principles in order to structure your training
🧊 Why mastering technique matters as much as being strong
🧊 Mental tricks and tips for getting in the right head space
🧊 Cost-effective training solutions if access to drytooling is hard to come by

Resources and links:

To see how Kevin, Aneta, and Zac are training, you can follow them on IG:

Be sure to send them a thank you message if you found their advice useful.

A few other useful resources:

Uphill Athlete has an article about Training for Ice and Mixed Climbing that I’ve personally used
Furnace Industries has a series about Training for Ice Climbing
We also had an episode about training for drytooling specifically last season, with Eli Ellis
Lastly, if you don’t have access to a drytooling gym or crag, Furnace Industries' wooden tools are climbing gym safe and also make for great options for training at home. And if you do want to build out your home wall, they also have the largest selection of drytooling-specific holds in the U.S.

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📸: Episode cover photo courtesy of Aneta

Credits:

Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.
And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!

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Training for Ice Climbing, Mixed, Drytooling, and Speed with Kevin Lindlau, Aneta Loužecká, and Zac St. Jules