Podcast Summary: Let's Get Dressed

Episode Title: Meet The Fashion Archivist Behind Chloe Sevigny’s Wardrobe, Plus Her Best Closet Preservation Tips
Release Date: January 27, 2025
Host: Liv Perez
Guest: Julianne [Last Name], Founder and Head Archivist at The Wardrobe

Introduction

In this insightful episode of Let's Get Dressed, host Liv Perez welcomes Julianne, the innovative founder and head archivist at The Wardrobe, an exclusive fashion archive in Los Angeles. Julianne's expertise in preserving the wardrobes of high-profile celebrities and renowned fashion brands provides listeners with a unique glimpse into the meticulous world of fashion archiving.

Guest Background and Career Path

Educational Foundation:
Julianne holds a master’s degree in the history of fashion and textiles from FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology). Her academic journey was driven by her ambition to become a top-tier fashion journalist, which initially led her to pursue a museum studies degree.

“I had the goal of being the best fashion writer ever. I thought, I'll be super informed... I had to take college level chemistry before I could get into the program.”
[02:00]

Professional Journey:
After graduating, Julianne transitioned from journalism to museum and gallery work. Her pivotal career moment came when Tom Ford approached her to establish and maintain his personal archive after his departure from Gucci.

“Tom Ford had approached my grad program at FIT because he had recently left Gucci... I created an archive for him.”
[03:54]

Over a decade, Julianne meticulously built Tom Ford’s archive, later branching out to serve other prestigious clients such as Jason Wu and Carolina Herrera. This experience culminated in her founding The Wardrobe, where she expanded her services to manage archives for various designers and private collectors.

The Role of a Fashion Archivist

Defining Fashion Archiving:
Julianne emphasizes that a fashion archivist’s role extends far beyond collecting clothes. It involves managing each client's personal “mini museum,” ensuring the longevity and integrity of their collections.

“Each of my clients has a mini museum... we're the collections managers or curators of this museum.”
[05:23]

Responsibilities Include:

• Preservation: Maintaining optimal conditions to prevent fabric degradation.
• Documentation: Cataloging each piece with detailed records and photographs.
• Monetization: Helping clients leverage their archives for future opportunities.
• Collaboration: Facilitating designers’ needs to reference past collections for new inspirations.

Building and Maintaining a Fashion Archive

Establishing the Archive:
Julianne recounts her experience with Tom Ford, where she started with minimal resources and progressively amassed a comprehensive collection of his designs and beauty products over ten years.

“I built that back over the course of about 10 years. I collected back all of his important designs...”
[04:30]

Operational Dynamics:
Her team acts as the guardians of these invaluable collections, ensuring that each garment is preserved correctly and is accessible when needed for reference or revival of specific design elements.

Preservation Tips and Best Practices

Julianne shares her expert advice on maintaining a pristine wardrobe, applicable to both fashion enthusiasts and everyday closet keepers.

1. Cleaning Before Storage:
Always clean garments before storing to prevent fabric degradation and pest attraction.

“You can't put away dirty things because it degrades the fabric over time... pests can be attracted to your garments.”
[17:36]

2. Proper Storage Techniques:

• Hanging vs. Folding:
  • Avoid hanging knitwear to prevent stretching.
  • Use thick, supportive hangers to maintain garment shape.
• Material of Storage Containers:
  • Avoid Plastics: They trap moisture and chemicals, leading to yellowing and damage.
  • Use Muslin Bags: Allow garments to breathe while protecting them from dust and light.

“Plastic is generally a no no because it doesn't allow things to breathe... Muslin bags are the best.”
[21:17]

3. Control Environment Factors:
Maintain consistent temperature and humidity levels, manage light exposure, and implement rigorous pest control measures to safeguard against damage.

“We manage the light. We have like hospital grade air filtration... serious pest control is a precaution.”
[25:02]

4. Regular Maintenance:
Vacuum frequently, wipe down storage areas, and ensure ample space between garments to prevent dust accumulation and pest infestation.

“You need to vacuum religiously... wipe down those cabinets, like, underneath everything.”
[26:20]

Insights on Collectible Fashion Pieces

Looking ahead, Julianne identifies several brands and designers whose pieces are poised to become highly collectible in the next fifty years. Current clients are actively investing in works by Alaia, Peter Mueller, Loewe, and Jonathan Anderson. Additionally, McQueen’s legacy under Sarah Burton is highlighted as a significant future collectible.

“I have clients that collect Alaia right now... I have clients that collect McQueen... will be legendary.”
[30:09 – 31:13]

Red Carpet Fashion and Archiving

As red carpet season unfolds, Julianne sheds light on the fate of the iconic dresses featured at major events like the Oscars. Typically, these garments are either returned to the designer’s archive or retained by the celebrities themselves, depending on their status and agreements.

“Usually they're archived... big enough stars that they're allowed to keep all of their own, like, all the pieces they wear.”
[28:24]

She also discusses the common misconception that all dresses are readily available for borrowing and emphasizes the importance of proper archival processes even during high-demand seasons.

Advice for Aspiring Fashion Archivists

Julianne offers guidance for those inspired to enter the field of fashion archiving:

1. Formal Education:
Pursue specialized degrees in museum studies or fashion history to gain the necessary scientific and historical knowledge.

“You've got to go to school for it... we really only hire people that have the degree because they have very specialized knowledge.”
[31:54]

2. Continuous Learning:
Leverage digital resources and platforms to stay informed about fashion history and archival techniques.

“In the Internet age... you have all the knowledge now at your fingertips.”
[32:42]

Conclusion

Julianne’s expertise underscores the critical role fashion archivists play in preserving the industry's rich history. Her meticulous approach ensures that iconic designs remain intact for future generations to study and draw inspiration from. Aspiring archivists are encouraged to pursue specialized education and remain passionate about fashion history to contribute effectively to this essential facet of the fashion world.

“It's a lot of value in an archive... it's capturing the industry's history and making sure that it survives.”
[29:32]

Notable Quotes:

• Julianne: “Each of my clients has a mini museum... we're the collections managers or curators of this museum.”
  [05:23]

• Julianne: “You can't put away dirty things because it degrades the fabric over time.”
  [17:36]

• Julianne: “Plastic is generally a no no because it doesn't allow things to breathe... Muslin bags are the best.”
  [21:17]

• Liv Perez: “I have doors on my closets because of that reason.”
  [25:55]

• Julianne: “I've gotten contacted by assistants for stylists who work for our clients... she has no idea that I have this person's actual archive.”
  [28:11]

This episode provides a comprehensive exploration of fashion archiving, blending professional insights with practical advice to inspire both fashion aficionados and aspiring archivists. Julianne’s dedication to preserving fashion’s legacy ensures that the beauty and history of iconic designs remain accessible and appreciated for years to come.