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Nick Qureshi
Germany's leader says Europe must be able to look after itself and not rely on the U.S. live from the U.K. this is the Marketplace Morning Report from the BBC World Service. Hello, I'm Nick Qureshi in for Liana Byrne. In an exclusive interview with the BBC, the German Chancellor Friedrich Mertz has accepted US Accusations that Europe has done too little to fund its own defence and security and that it's been free riding on the US in the past. It follows a BBC interview with President Trump this week where he backed the NATO military alliance now that members were paying their own bills. Mr. Mertz told the BBC's Nick Robinson that Europe needs to be more independent as the US focuses more on other parts of the world.
Friedrich Mertz
We are all looking for more independency from American defense. We know that we have to do more on our own and we had been free riders in the past and the Americans guaranteed our freedom and our security and they are not willing understandably to do that any longer. And they are asking us to do more and we are doing more. I'm observing that the Americans for years now moving away from Europe and turning to Asia. This, so to say, pivot to Asia is happening and there are other places in the world the Americans are interested in and they are seeing themselves in a a very hard competition with China. And that's the reason why they are telling us, take care for your own. And we are doing it.
Nick Qureshi
That's the German Chancellor Friedrich Mertz speaking to the BBC's Today programme. Right, let's move on to some numbers. The EU has agreed more sanctions against Russia, further targeting its financial and energy sectors. A lower price cap for Russian crude means oil prices are up. Brent crude currently just under $70 a barrel, and new figures confirm the price of rice in Japan rose by more than 99% year on year in June. The surging cost of the grain has been a source of public anger. Brazil's President Luis Inacio Lula da Silva has condemned President Trump's threat to impose harsh tariffs on his country as unacceptable blackmail. Mr. Trump last week threatened Brazil with 50% tariffs and called for an end to the trial of his ally, the right wing former president Jair Bolsonaro, who's accused of trying to overturn Brazil's 2022 election. There's a lot at stake. The amount of trade between the US and Brazil is huge. As the BBC's Maura Fogarty explains, $90.
Maura Fogarty
Billion was how much trade between the two countries was worth last year. Interestingly, I need to point out that the US Has a trade surplus with Brazil. That means more US Goods are sent to Brazil than Brazilian goods sent to United States, which in a way flies in the face of President Trump's argument that these tariffs are put in countries who have trade surpluses with the us.
Nick Qureshi
More refugee there and Prada's new collection debuted at Milan's Menswear Fashion Week. A pair of sandals labeled as leather footwear caught the attention of many in India due to their similarity to traditional sandals. Some have criticized the luxury brand for copying the work of artisans with without giving any credit or compensation. The BBC's Davina Gupta reports from Kolhapur City and spoke to the Indian workers making the original leather sandals.
Devina Gupta
I'm in a cramped, dimly lit workshop in Kolhapur. As I walk around to my right, there's a stack of freshly made leather sandals wrapped in a plastic sheet. In front of me, there are artisans who are sitting on the concrete floor. There are bits of threads, tools that are scattered around them. They're all working in a rhythmic motion. These sandals are made from Buffalo High, says Sadashiv Sanaki. He's been working in this workshop for nearly 40 years now.
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I make about 50 pairs of the sandals in 10 days. I earn about four to five dollars in one day.
Devina Gupta
Sadashev is one of nearly a hundred thousand people in India still making these open leather sandals, known for their distinctive T strap. And many of those in the trade come from marginalized communities and face low wages, soaring material costs and tough working conditions. So when luxury brand Prada showcased a strikingly similar design at Milan Fashion Week and called them leather footwear without crediting their Indian origin, the backlash was swift.
Sponsor Representative
I really believe that Kolh Puri is a cultural legacy for India and lack of credit or collaboration makes this appropriation.
Devina Gupta
That's prominent Indian fashion designer Ritu Berri.
Sponsor Representative
The artisan from India remains invisible while the brands profit from it from the inspiration that they get from here. So I think it's time we Indians claim our heritage.
Devina Gupta
In response to their criticism, Prada issued a statement acknowledging Indian influence. The brand told the BBC it's now in talks with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, a local trade body. Lalit Gandhi is its president.
Sponsor Representative
Actually, it is a good thing that a brand like Kolhapuri Chappal get an endorsement from Prada. Definitely. The value is increase many folds. We want the some share of that profit to be shared with the artisan.
Devina Gupta
I'm now in Kolhapur's famous Chappal gully or sandal market. It's a vibrant street lined with shops and Kolh puri. Sandals are everywhere, in every shade. And unlike Prada's luxury price tag, these ones are quite affordable.
Sponsor Representative
I saw it on the Prada Milan Fashion Week. That's why I really liked it and like that's why I got it.
Devina Gupta
How much have you paid for that?
Sponsor Representative
I paid around $8 for it.
Devina Gupta
But back in the workshop, artisans including Sadashiv had never heard of Prada. So I show him a video from the Milan fashion show and tell him sandals like his might be selling for hundreds of dollars in the near future. Are they made of gold? He says. In Delhi, I'm the BBC's Devina Gupta for Marketplace.
Nick Qureshi
And that is it from the Marketplace morning report from the BBC World Service. Our producer today was Craig Henderson and the editor Naomi Raley. I'm Mick Qureshi. Thanks for listening.
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Nick Qureshi
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Maura Fogarty
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Marketplace Morning Report Summary Episode: "We are all looking for more independency from American defense" Release Date: July 18, 2025 Host: Nick Qureshi, Marketplace
The episode opens with a significant focus on Europe's shifting stance towards its defense and security. German Chancellor Friedrich Mertz addresses longstanding criticisms from the United States regarding Europe's dependency on American defense support.
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The report delves into the European Union's ongoing sanctions against Russia, focusing on the economic implications of these measures.
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A segment is dedicated to the escalating trade tensions between the United States and Brazil, particularly focusing on President Trump's recent threats.
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The episode highlights a significant controversy involving the luxury brand Prada and its alleged appropriation of traditional Indian craftsmanship.
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The episode of Marketplace Morning Report provides a comprehensive overview of critical global issues affecting defense independence in Europe, economic sanctions, international trade tensions, and cultural appropriation in the fashion industry. Through insightful interviews and on-the-ground reporting, listeners gain a nuanced understanding of the interplay between geopolitical strategies, economic policies, and cultural dynamics shaping today's world.
Produced by Craig Henderson and edited by Naomi Raley. Reporting by Nick Qureshi and contributions from Maura Fogarty and Devina Gupta.