Podcast Summary:
Podcast: New Books Network – New Books in Southeast Asian Studies
Host: Patrick Jory
Guest: Michael Hurley
Episode: Waterways of Bangkok: Memory, Landscape and Twilight (NUS Press, 2025)
Date: February 1, 2026
Overview: Main Theme and Purpose
In this episode, Patrick Jory interviews anthropologist Michael Hurley about his book, "Waterways of Bangkok: Memory, Landscape and Twilight". The conversation delves into the historical and cultural centrality of the Chao Phraya River (Ja Phraya) in Bangkok and Thailand at large. Hurley reflects on the river as a binding thread for Thai society, examining Bangkok’s transformation from an aquatic culture to a land-based, modern city. The book and discussion weave together the themes of memory, ethnic diversity, landscape, and the complexities of ecological change.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
1. Origins of Hurley’s Interest and Academic Background
- Hurley shares his atypical academic journey, from truck driving to immersing himself in anthropology and fieldwork in Southeast Asia.
- His “crazy idea” to self-learn Thai language led him deeper into Thai culture and ultimately the study of Bangkok’s waterways.
Quote:
"There was something about the waterways... the way that water was integrated into culture traditionally and in some ways up to the present became more and more interesting." — Michael Hurley [05:09]
2. Geography and Significance of the Chao Phraya River
- The river forms in northern Thailand, created by the merging Bing, Wang, Yom, and Nan rivers at Nakhon Sawan, and travels through ancient Ayutthaya before reaching Bangkok and the Gulf of Thailand.
- Hurley notes the early “shortcut canals” that altered the river's route, and the persistence of waterways in the city despite many being paved over.
Quote:
"The region of central Thailand is relatively flat. The river... moves in these wide arcs along that plain. But it's been shortened numerous times by what are called shortcut canals." — Michael Hurley [08:05]
3. Aquatic Culture and Everyday Life
- Bangkok and central Thailand were historically defined by their aquatic environment: stilt and raft houses, communities relying on water for transportation and comfort.
- Key ritual practices (e.g., Loy Krathong festival and Songkran, the Thai New Year) reflect reverence for the river, including traditions of sacrifice, apology for pollution, and celebration.
- Hurley underscores the maternal character of the river, noting the Thai word mae nam means "mother of water," a deep-rooted animist concept.
Memorable Quotes:
- "People will tell you today that it's just more comfortable to live along the river. It's cooler there." — Michael Hurley [10:18]
- "The Thai word for river, mae nam, is literally a mother of water." — Michael Hurley [13:32]
4. Ethnic Diversity Along the Chao Phraya
Ethnic Chinese in Bangkok
- Hurley details the longstanding and multifaceted Chinese presence, their critical role in the development of the city, and the fluidity of ethnic identity:
- Many Bangkok residents simultaneously identify as Thai and Chinese.
- Historic waves of migration, complex relationships with nationalism/identity.
- Contradictions and complexities in the construction of “Thai-ness”.
Quote:
"According to observations from the 19th century, most of the inhabitants of Bangkok might have been Chinese, which was kind of startling when I first saw that." — Michael Hurley [16:26]
Ethnic Lao
- Large numbers of Lao were forcibly relocated to Bangkok after the destruction of Vientiane (Wieng Chan). These war captives became conscripted laborers (“prai”) under feudal systems.
- Many present-day Bangkokians may have Lao ancestry yet may not know it, illustrating hidden histories within the city’s fabric.
- Hurley highlights the contrast between celebrated and forgotten historical memories (Ayutthaya vs. Vientiane).
Quote:
"A lot of these people were transferred as war captives... and many of those people were actually transferred to the area around the Jaopia River." — Michael Hurley [21:09]
Muslims/Malays
- Chapter four focuses on Muslim (especially Malay) communities along San Saep Canal, a polluted but vibrant waterway.
- Many such communities trace their origins to forced relocations, but contemporary knowledge of origins is often ambiguous or ‘owned’ by community elders.
- Despite the canal’s dire ecological state, the mosque remains a thriving center.
Quote:
"As I asked more people... many would just say they weren't sure where the community came from. Or they would say: you have to talk to the 'big people,' you know, the people who have more status in the community." — Michael Hurley [28:23]
5. Transformation: From Waterways to Roads
- The late 19th–early 20th centuries witnessed a decisive shift from water-based transport and dwellings to roads and land-based modernization.
- Floating and stilt houses, once common and well-adapted to seasonal floods, have nearly vanished.
- This shift accompanied the rise of pollution and a nostalgic sense of loss about the riverine way of life; modernization often appears at odds with traditional adaptive practices.
Quote:
"Most people are not very optimistic about the future of that way of life. And people are quite conscious of the severe pollution of the river. At the same time, people will sometimes say, yes, but the water flows—and so it still has this potential of being renewed." — Michael Hurley [32:17]
6. Floods and Adaptation (Ecological Change)
- In pre-modern times, floods were a normal seasonal occurrence; communities adapted with houses that rose and fell with the water.
- Contemporary Bangkok’s reliance on static, land-based structures has increased vulnerability, especially given climate change and land subsidence.
- Urban memory includes recent devastating floods, sandbag fortifications, and community mobilization.
Quote:
"If it rains and the river is flooded, they would just rise with the water, but people aren't living that way anymore. This is also related to big questions of climate change." — Michael Hurley [35:31]
7. Water Pollution & Prospects for Cleanup
- Pollution is a major theme: industrial/urban waste has left the river in poor health.
- There’s public desire for cleanup (as seen in communal murals), but practical efforts and governmental targets are modest—essentially to keep the river “just above where life will not be viable.”
- While hope remains, Hurley characterizes real change as a distant “anticipated utopia.”
Quote:
"Honestly speaking, this seems almost like... an anticipated utopia, where people really will gather together and clean up the river." — Michael Hurley [37:55]
8. Next Project: An Ethnography of Rain and the Monsoon
- Hurley introduces his new research, an ethnography focusing on rain and the monsoon’s cultural, mythological, and material impacts across Southeast Asia.
- He teases connections to ritual rain-calling, ancient objects (e.g., bronze drums), and the symbolic role of the white elephant and rain jars within regional cosmologies.
Quote:
"So once you start thinking about the seasons of Thailand and the rainy season, this is related to the broader phenomenon of the monsoon system, which really covers [a] massive swath of territory." — Michael Hurley [39:30]
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments
-
On Cultural Memory:
"I was interested in how history was visible in the present or sometimes invisible." — Michael Hurley [18:39] -
On Identity:
"[They] describe themselves as ties. And then one day, they started talking about themselves as Chinese. And there was no apparent contradiction." — Michael Hurley [15:59] -
On Community Resilience:
"These were also times when people talked about the importance of community efforts, that people had to make to protect their communities from the flood water." — Michael Hurley [36:11]
Timestamps for Key Segments
- 03:38 Hurley’s personal and academic background
- 07:22 The geography and ecology of the Chao Phraya River
- 10:06 The aquatic culture and rituals of riverine life
- 13:32 Maternal symbolism of rivers in Thai culture
- 15:18 The Chinese community’s presence and integration
- 20:25 Ethnic Lao and forced migration history
- 25:28 The history and present of Bangkok’s Muslim/Malay communities
- 31:23 Urban shift from water to land, and its social impacts
- 34:44 Contemporary challenges with flooding
- 36:53 Water pollution and community attitudes
- 39:09 New research focus: rain and the monsoon system
- 43:06 Close & appreciation
Tone and Language
The tone is reflective, thoughtful, and accessible—Hurley balances scholarly insight with evocative, clear descriptions and regular reference to fieldwork vignettes. Jory’s questions encourage a mix of personal narrative, empirical explanation, and theoretical reflection, making the episode rich and engaging.
Summary
This episode offers a nuanced journey through the waterways of Bangkok: from their geographical birth to their enduring echoes in modern Thai society, and from histories of migration and memory to the everyday lived experiences shaped by water, loss, and environmental change. Hurley invites listeners to see the river not just as background, but as a living actor in Bangkok’s ongoing story—one whose cultural, ecological, and emotional currents run deep.
