Podcast Summary:

New Books Network – "One Cheese to Rule Them All: In Search of the World’s 100 Best Cheeses"
Authors: Patrick McGuigan & Carlos Yescas
Host: Dr. Miranda Melcher
Date: January 20, 2026

Overview

This episode features an engaging discussion with cheese experts and judges Patrick McGuigan and Carlos Yescas about their new book, One Cheese to Rule Them All: In Search of the World's 100 Best Cheeses (Murdoch Books, 2025). The conversation explores the formation and global reach of the World Cheese Awards, the criteria for judging cheeses, intriguing historical anecdotes, the politics and mysteries of cheese naming, strict production regulations, cultural shifts, and the continually evolving world of cheese-making.

Author Introductions & Origins of the Book

[02:05 - 05:49]

• Patrick McGuigan: Cheese writer, journalist, educator, and experienced cheese judge.
• Carlos Yescas: Cheese scholar focusing on research, production, politics, and marketing, with a background in Mexican cheese cultures.

Motivation for the Book:

• Stemmed from their experiences as judges at the World Cheese Awards—described as the "Olympics of cheese" (D, [03:35]).
• The selection of 100 cheeses comes from award history, but also from their own expertise and preferences.

  "We went on cheeses that had won lots of awards, but there was also quite a lot of Carlos and I, our kind of opinions and knowledge around cheese... and also some of our favorites that we just love." (D, [04:38])

Intended Audience & Aspirations

[05:49 - 07:25]

• Book is aimed at both cheese aficionados and casual consumers.
• Designed to be "a gateway" for those interested in food, blending cheese stories with history, politics, and economics—"this is a full world out there of cheese... but it doesn't have to be complicated or boring." (C, [06:14])

The World Cheese Awards: Origins, Structure, & Impact

[07:25 - 14:09]

• Origins: Launched in 1988 in the UK to shine a light on specialty cheeses, particularly lesser-known French varieties (D, [07:46-09:38]).
• Growth: Grown to a truly global event, with over 5,000 entries and 250+ experts ("Olympics of cheese") ([03:35], [07:46]).
• Super Jury Panel: Exclusive group of top judges responsible for selecting the final "best cheese in the world." Both guests served for over a decade.

  "It's a panel of 14 people... they tasted them again... and they choose the best cheese in the world." (C, [09:57])

• Criteria for Winning: Uniqueness, quality, terroir, expression of maker's intent.

  "They're looking for things that are unique, things that are very well made, things that sort of express the intention of the cheesemaker..." (C, [11:49])

• Consequences for Winners: Life-changing—benefits cheesemaker, their community, and even the country's reputation and economy.

  "The first thing is it changes the life of the cheesemaker forever." (C, [12:40]) Notable example: Norway’s rise after winning a major award ([13:25]).

Evolution of Winning Cheeses & Globalization

[14:09 - 26:23]

• Early Winners: Predominantly traditional, high-profile European cheeses (Brie de Meaux, Cheddar, Gruyère).

  "Those early years...the real big hitters that sort of, everybody knows... Brie de meaux, there's cheddar, there's a Le Gruyere..." (D, [16:41])

• Revival of Artisan Cheese: Identifies post-war decline and 1980s “food revolution”—rediscovery of British, American, Spanish artisan cheese ([17:47]).
• Internationalization: Initially Eurocentric, expanded beyond Europe as logistics improved—"consolidation points" made entries from Latin America, India, South Africa, etc. possible (C, [21:06]).

  "We really needed to create a system that will allow for that competitor ... to have the same chances that someone in France, for example, will have." (C, [23:51])

• Judges & Entries: Now feature 44 countries represented, both among judges and cheeses.

The Name Game: Cheese & Place

[26:23 - 32:18]

• Highlights complexities and controversies around cheese names and region of origin:
  • Cheddar: Originates from Cheddar, Somerset, but is now made worldwide.

    "The technology...has spread. And so you can make cheddar anywhere." (D, [27:38])

  • Stilton: Legally can't be made in Stilton, despite the name ([31:28]).

    "[Stilton] was made in the Midlands, but...traded [in Stilton], and it became known as Stilton cheese, even though it wasn't made there." (D, [31:28])

  • Protected Designation: Some regions secured legal protection (like Parmigiano Reggiano), others (like cheddar) were too late.

Regulations & Secrets in Cheese-Making

[32:18 - 39:39]

• Stringent Regulations: Some cheeses have highly detailed production specs—for example, Forme d’Ambert must be made within a certain region, animals fed specific diets, rules on milk type and handling time ([32:58]).

  "Forme d’Ambert basically protects...the shape that it is, the mold that is used, the type of feed that the animals are Eating..." (C, [35:40])

• Are there secrets left?
  • Despite strict rules, there remain scientific mysteries—microbial activity, rind development, flavor pathways ([37:53]).

    "...we still don't understand what is the pathways that are created by yeast bacteria to open up the spaces for molds to grow on rinds." (C, [37:53])

  • Cheese-making remains an art and a science.

Favorite Cheese Stories & Cultural Shifts

[39:39 - 45:16]

• Beaufort’s Rescue: Patrick’s favorite—saved from extinction by Maxime Viale’s activism in the 1960s; now thriving due to co-ops and protections ([39:56]).

  "...in the 1960s it was on the verge of extinction...this sort of one campaigning farmer...set up a cooperative dairy...and managed to get one of these PDO...and really saved the cheese." (D, [40:16])

• Modern Pressures & Loss: Carlos warns of disappearing traditional cheeses, due to global health guidelines and standardized processes overruling artisanal methods ([43:24]).

  "I am already mourning some of the cheeses that will disappear before we actually know them..." (C, [43:24])

Innovations & The Future of Cheese

[45:16 - 49:32]

• New Frontiers: Increasing experimentation even in traditional regions; hybrid and cross-cultural cheeses are emerging everywhere ([45:41]).

  "Even in France...new younger cheesemakers... sort of creates something brand new." (D, [47:12])

• Examples: Goat’s milk "bariquette" in France, creative presentation techniques for cheeses (e.g., making cheese “flowers” with a gyrole, a device originally for Switzerland’s Tête de Moine) ([48:12]).
• Global Trends: More cheeses from Asia, Latin America, experiments with presentation, and changing techniques ([48:12]).

So... Is There One Cheese to Rule Them All?

[49:32 - 54:34]

• Despite the title, there’s no definitive answer—preferences depend on context, use, and personal taste ([50:19]).

  "It kind of depends on who you are, what you fancy, what time of day it is..." (D, [50:20])

• Statistical Standouts:
  • Gruyère: The most frequent winner at the World Cheese Awards.

    "If you want to go on what's won the World Cheese Awards the most, it's Le Gruyere." (D, [51:18])

  • Blue Cheeses & Alpine-style Cheeses: Consistently favored.
  • Gouda: Notably versatile and successful globally (C, [52:23]).

    "There has been Gouda winners in a couple of times and there are producers outside of Europe making Gouda styles that are quite good." (C, [52:23])

Practical Advice for Cheese Lovers

[54:34 - 54:54]

• When looking for superior cheese, prioritize:
  • Farmhouse, cloth-bound, raw milk, aged varieties over mass-produced brands.

    "...you can go for...smaller producers...using raw milk. Making cheese in a more traditional way, aging it a bit longer. And those are the cheeses you want..." (D, [53:48])

What’s Next for the Authors?

[54:54 - 57:24]

• Patrick: Teaching the Academy of Cheese in North America, cheese-focused travel, and educational work ([54:58]).
• Carlos: Coordinating Latin American research contributions for an academic book ("Cheese and Microbes"), elevating the understanding of cheese microbiology in the region ([56:04]).

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• "Cheeses are a great way to sort of understand the world around you...a window on the world." (D, [39:56])
• "The first thing is it changes the life of the cheesemaker forever." (C, [12:40])
• On regulations:
  "Forme d’Ambert...protects a lot of things. The shape, the mold, the type of feed...the animal husbandry practices..." (C, [35:40])
• "We still don't understand what is the pathways that are created by yeast bacteria to open up spaces for molds to grow on rinds." (C, [37:53])
• On the book’s title:
  "You'll have to buy the book to find out. That's...a bit of a cheat, really, isn't it?" (D, [50:00])

Key Timestamps

• [02:05] — Author introductions and motivation
• [03:35] — Origin of using World Cheese Awards as a basis
• [06:14] — Intended audience and aspirations
• [09:57] — Super Jury Panel explained
• [11:49] — What makes a winning cheese; consequences of winning
• [14:22] — Early winners and evolution of the awards
• [21:06] — Inclusion of global cheeses/logistics
• [26:23] — Behind the scenes and challenges in expanding
• [27:38] — Cheese names, geographical protections, and quirks
• [32:58] — Production regulations and esoteric rules
• [37:53] — Secrets and mysteries in cheese-making
• [40:16] — Beaufort’s story and traditional cheese preservation
• [43:24] — Modern pressures and cheese losses
• [45:41] — Innovations, fusion, and next-gen cheeses
• [49:32] — Is there one “supreme” cheese?
• [54:58] — Authors’ upcoming projects

This episode offers a comprehensive, deeply insightful, and sometimes humorous look at the surprisingly complex world of cheese—its history, globalization, regulations, hidden science, and the passionate individuals keeping cheese culture alive and evolving.