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Andrew Limbong
Hey, it's NPR's Book of the Day. I'm Andrew Limbong. Holiday cookbooks shouldn't just sit on the shelves the other 11 months of the year. You know what I mean? There's no law that says food from a holiday in December shouldn't be cooked come January. Which is to say today we've got a cookbook for you that centers around Kwanzaa. Yes, the last night of Kwanzaa wrapped last week, but again, the food is still good. The book is called A Kwanzaa Keepsake and Cookbook by Jessica B. Harris. It was actually originally written in but has since been updated. And at the beginning of the holiday, Harris spoke with here now, Scott Tong about how Kwanzaa is not Christmas, it's not Hanukkah. It is its own thing with its own traditions and meals, including some sweet potato fritters that I might actually try out later this week. That interview's coming up.
Scott Tong
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Tonight, many black Americans and others will celebrate the first night of Kwanzaa. The seven day festival focuses on family, on self reflection and yes, on food. If you want to celebrate but maybe don't know how, you might want to turn to historian and cookbook author Jessica B. Harris. Her book High on the Hog was the inspiration for the Netflix series. In 1995, Harris published a Kwanzaa keepsake and cookbook and this year she has released an updated version and she joins us from her home station WB or to talk about it. Jessica B. Harris, welcome to Here and Now.
Jessica B. Harris
Well, thank you and happy Kwanzaa.
Scott Tong
Happy Kwanzaa to you. First K. Give us a little history. I was surprised to read Kwanzaa was not proclaimed a holiday till 1966.
Jessica B. Harris
Well, it wasn't so much proclaimed a holiday. It is a created holiday. It was created by ron Karenga in 1966. He decided in 66 that African Americans needed a time of cultural reaffirmation and looked east, if you will, to the African continent and welded together and added to a of harvest celebrations that were celebrated throughout the continent actually. And there came Kwanzaa.
Scott Tong
Yeah. As you write in your book, this is a seven night celebration and the number seven we find throughout the celebration. Yeah.
Jessica B. Harris
Yes. There are seven days. Each day celebrates a principle. The seven principles of Kwanzaa are umoja, unity, kujichagulia, self determination, ujima, collective work and responsibility, ujama, cooperative economics, nia, pur kumba, creativity, and imani, faith. In addition, there are seven symbols of Kwanzaa. The mkeka, or the mat on which the display is built. On the display, you will have usually fruits. I use vegetables as well, but they are the fruits of the harvest. There's a kinara, or candle holder. The kinara is seven branches. You've got the candles that are called mishuma, the individual black candle in the middle, red candles to the left, and green candles to the right. They are then lighted the black candle on the first night and then on subsequent nights, from the red candles to the green candles in alternates, reinforcing the image visually that without struggle, represented by the red candles, there is no future, there is no attainment represented by the green candles.
Scott Tong
Mm.
Jessica B. Harris
The mohindi ears of corn symbolize the number of children in the household. There should always be one, because children are possibility. The kikombecha umojo, or communal cup, is a cup of unity, the unity of all peoples of African descent, whether in the United States or in diaspora or on the motherland itself. The zawadi are the gifts. And I haven't been counting, but I think that may be all seven.
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Yeah.
Scott Tong
Okay. No, thank you for. Wow. The principle that goes with the first night of Kwanzaa is umoja, or unity. How do you think about how the food you serve and prepare accompanies that idea of unity?
Jessica B. Harris
I have done different dishes that come from different parts of the diaspora. And my Kwanzaa cookbook is a little bit different from other cookbooks in that it speaks to a way I cook every night, as opposed to something that may or may not be connected historically to the African experience. So the meal for the first night has fresh greens with avocado and raspberries. There's no kind of historic precedent to that. But there is also a Mechui style leg of lamb, which speaks to the North African contributions.
Scott Tong
You also have a basic recipe for orzo with slivered almonds. It's cooked with extra virgin olive oil. Why is that on your list? Is that something you like to make regularly?
Jessica B. Harris
Anyway, back when I was writing this book in 1995, I used to make the world's worst rice, and so the orzo was my rice substitute.
Scott Tong
Yeah, I understand. All right. And I want to kind of look forward to the second night. The principle is self determination on your menu. What you think about serving is a suggested sweet potato fritters. Tell us about that recipe, how you make it.
Jessica B. Harris
Well, the sweet potato fritters are something that come from, in this case, South Africa, frying in deep oil, that is to say, deep fat frying is certainly something that is a culinary form that was mastered on the African continent. I'm not saying it is unique to the African continent, but it was certainly mastered on the continent. And that mastery shows up in all sorts of fritters, be they savory or sweet. In this case, sweet potatoes, which are actually New World tubers, are used to create a dish in the old world of Africa. So the idea of the new world and the old world coming together.
Scott Tong
Yeah. How else can families observe night two where the focus is self determination? Are there other practices, things people can think about doing?
Jessica B. Harris
Well, the book is organized in such a way that for each of the knights, there are ancestors that I call out that represent that particular virtue. In the case of the second night, I talk about Chaka Zulu of South Africa, Zumbi of Palmares in Brazil, Nanny of the Maroons in Jamaica, of the Amistad in the United States. And then the new thing in this book, this version of the book is I added an LBGTQ person to each night. So for this night, it's Gladys Bentley of the United States. And so on each night, I talk about those who fought and died defending themselves, determining their destinies and forging their futures and our own.
Scott Tong
Your book also mentions people collectively celebrating Kwanzaa families or otherwise doing a project on each night. What's the idea there?
Jessica B. Harris
First of all, I like crafts. Simple. And I think the thing is about people coming together around a project. Remember now, Kwanzaa is not Christmas. It's not Hanukkah, it's not Diwali. It's about bringing people together. And I think families don't necessarily spend time together working toward a particular goal. If you get the family together and everyone works on the project, you're creating another kind of unity. You're creating a time for people to come together, to talk across generations, to talk across perhaps different ways of even being in the world. And hopefully in that coming together, they'll be able to find common ground, whether it is in a nuclear family. I'm an only child, so not only do I not have a family per se, I don't have sisters, I don't have nieces, I don't have nephews. So my family is my community. And the bringing together of that community and other communities both like and unlike is part of what I think the virtue of Kwanzaa is.
Scott Tong
Yeah, boy, I love that. Finally, I did want to ask you, but something you make clear in the book that as you write, there is flexibility in observing Kwanzaa. You make space for families to add their own traditions. Help us understand this concept that there is a lot of flexibility in all of this.
Jessica B. Harris
Well, that's not necessarily the absolute rule of Kwanzaa. That is my Kwanzaa. I'm African American. I improvise on everything. I write recipe, but I can't follow my own recipes. I improvise. So the bottom line is this is my improvisation with an encouragement to others to equally improvise. If you had this world without the improvisation of African Americans, it would be a sad and sorry place. We'd have no tap dancing. We'd have no jazz, we'd have no salsa. We'd have no current street fashion. We'd have no language. As we use African Americans by nature, if you will, improvise. We improvise. We ring in the changes we do. Our own jazz rifts on pretty much everything that we come in contact with and the world. And I think equally Kwanzaa will be very much the better for our improvisations.
Scott Tong
We have been talking Kwanzaa traditions and food with Jessica B. Harris. She's the author of a Kwanzaa keepsake and cookbook celebrating the holiday with family, community and tradition. Jessica P. Harris, thank you so much for this.
Jessica B. Harris
Thank you so much and happy Kwanzaa.
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NPR's Book of the Day: Summary of "A Kwanzaa Keepsake and Cookbook" Episode
NPR's Book of the Day hosted by Andrew Limbong presents insightful discussions on notable books, and in the January 6, 2025 episode titled "A Kwanzaa Keepsake and Cookbook," the focus is on Jessica B. Harris's updated exploration of Kwanzaa traditions through her cookbook. This summary encapsulates the key points, discussions, insights, and conclusions drawn from the episode, enriched with notable quotes and structured for clarity.
The episode opens with Andrew Limbong introducing the concept of holiday cookbooks having utility beyond their designated seasons. Highlighting the timeless appeal of good food, Limbong introduces Jessica B. Harris's "A Kwanzaa Keepsake and Cookbook" as a resource that extends Kwanzaa culinary traditions beyond the holiday itself.
Andrew Limbong [00:02]: "Holiday cookbooks shouldn't just sit on the shelves the other 11 months of the year. ... today we've got a cookbook for you that centers around Kwanzaa."
Throughout the episode, sponsors such as Spectrum Business, Schwab, Rosetta Stone, and Bombas deliver brief advertisements. These segments are noted but excluded from the summary as per the request to focus solely on content-related sections.
The main content features an interview between host Scott Tong and Jessica B. Harris, a renowned historian and cookbook author known for her seminal work, "High on the Hog," which inspired a Netflix series. Harris discusses her updated version of the Kwanzaa cookbook, originally published in 1995.
Scott Tong [01:20]: "Tonight, many black Americans and others will celebrate the first night of Kwanzaa... historian and cookbook author Jessica B. Harris... has released an updated version and she joins us... Jessica B. Harris, welcome to Here and Now."
Jessica B. Harris [01:56]: "Well, thank you and happy Kwanzaa."
Harris elaborates on the origins and significance of Kwanzaa, clarifying misconceptions and emphasizing its distinct identity separate from other holidays.
Jessica B. Harris [02:06]: "It was created by Ron Karenga in 1966... African Americans needed a time of cultural reaffirmation... Kwanzaa."
A substantial portion of the discussion delves into the seven principles (Nguzo Saba) that Kwanzaa celebrates and their corresponding symbols. Harris details each principle, the associated symbols, and their representation within the Kwanzaa observance.
Jessica B. Harris [02:47]: "There are seven days. Each day celebrates a principle... Umoja, Kujichagulia, Ujima, Ujamaa, Nia, Kuumba, and Imani."
Jessica B. Harris [03:00]: "The kinara is seven branches... red candles to the left, and green candles to the right... representing struggle and attainment."
Harris emphasizes the role of food in Kwanzaa, presenting a fusion of African and African American culinary practices. She shares specific recipes from her cookbook, illustrating how traditional and contemporary dishes can honor Kwanzaa's principles.
Scott Tong [04:34]: "The principle that goes with the first night of Kwanzaa is Umoja, or unity. How do you think about how the food you serve and prepare accompanies that idea of unity?"
Jessica B. Harris [04:52]: "The meal for the first night has fresh greens with avocado and raspberries... a Mechui style leg of lamb, which speaks to the North African contributions."
One highlighted recipe is the sweet potato fritters, which Harris describes as a blend of New World ingredients with Old World cooking techniques, symbolizing the fusion inherent in African American culture.
Jessica B. Harris [06:11]: "The sweet potato fritters are something that come from... South Africa, frying in deep oil... the idea of the new world and the old world coming together."
A notable update in Harris's revised cookbook is the inclusion of LGBTQ figures associated with each Kwanzaa principle, broadening the holiday's representation and acknowledging diverse contributions within the African diaspora.
Jessica B. Harris [06:59]: "I added an LGBTQ person to each night... for the second night, it's Gladys Bentley of the United States."
Harris advocates for community involvement and the flexibility of Kwanzaa observance, encouraging families and communities to adapt traditions to their unique contexts. She underscores the importance of unity through communal projects and creative expressions.
Jessica B. Harris [08:03]: "Kwanzaa is about bringing people together... creating a time for people to come together, to talk across generations... the bringing together of that community."
Harris shares her personal approach to Kwanzaa as an improvisational practice, reflecting the dynamic and evolving nature of African American culture.
Jessica B. Harris [09:36]: "That's my Kwanzaa. I'm African American. I improvise on everything... encourage others to equally improvise... Kwanzaa will be very much the better for our improvisations."
The episode concludes with Scott Tong summarizing the discussion, reiterating Harris's contributions through her cookbook and her emphasis on family, community, and tradition within Kwanzaa celebrations.
Scott Tong [10:40]: "We've been talking Kwanzaa traditions and food with Jessica B. Harris. She's the author of 'A Kwanzaa Keepsake and Cookbook' celebrating the holiday with family, community and tradition. Jessica P. Harris, thank you so much for this."
Jessica B. Harris [10:55]: "Thank you so much and happy Kwanzaa."
Kwanzaa's Distinct Identity: Created in 1966 by Ron Karenga, Kwanzaa serves as a cultural reaffirmation for African Americans, emphasizing unity and heritage distinct from other holidays.
Seven Principles and Symbols: Central to Kwanzaa are the Nguzo Saba (seven principles) and their corresponding symbols, which guide daily observances and reflections throughout the seven-day festival.
Culinary Fusion: Harris's cookbook showcases a blend of African and African American culinary traditions, presenting recipes that honor Kwanzaa's principles while embracing creativity and adaptability.
Inclusivity: The updated cookbook includes LGBTQ figures, broadening the representation and acknowledging diverse contributions within the African diaspora.
Community and Flexibility: Emphasizing communal projects and flexible traditions, Harris encourages families and communities to adapt Kwanzaa practices to their unique contexts, fostering unity and dialogue.
Cultural Improvisation: Reflecting the dynamic nature of African American culture, Harris advocates for improvisation in Kwanzaa observances, celebrating adaptability and creative expression.
Andrew Limbong [00:02]: "Holiday cookbooks shouldn't just sit on the shelves the other 11 months of the year."
Jessica B. Harris [02:06]: "It was created by Ron Karenga in 1966... Kwanzaa."
Jessica B. Harris [02:47]: "There are seven days. Each day celebrates a principle..."
Jessica B. Harris [06:11]: "The sweet potato fritters... the idea of the new world and the old world coming together."
Jessica B. Harris [09:36]: "That's my Kwanzaa... encourage others to equally improvise."
This episode of NPR's Book of the Day offers a comprehensive look into Jessica B. Harris's "A Kwanzaa Keepsake and Cookbook," providing listeners with an enriched understanding of Kwanzaa's traditions, principles, and the role of food in cultural celebration. Harris's insights highlight the importance of unity, creativity, and inclusivity, making the cookbook a valuable resource for those looking to honor Kwanzaa's legacy and adapt its practices to contemporary contexts.