Mark Kurlansky's novel 'Cheesecake' was inspired by a recipe from ancient Rome

Summary

NPR's Book of the Day: Summary of Mark Kurlansky's 'Cheesecake'

Episode Title: Mark Kurlansky's novel 'Cheesecake' was inspired by a recipe from ancient Rome
Release Date: July 23, 2025
Host: Scott Simon
Guest: Mark Kurlansky
Duration: Approximately 6 minutes and 28 seconds of content

Introduction

In this episode of NPR's Book of the Day, Mark Kurlansky unveils his latest novel, 'Cheesecake', a captivating blend of fiction and historical culinary exploration. Renowned for his meticulous nonfiction works on subjects like salt and oysters, Kurlansky transitions into fiction with a story that intertwines ancient Roman recipes with modern-day New York City dynamics.

The Genesis of 'Cheesecake'

Mark Kurlansky begins by explaining the inspiration behind his novel. "Fiction is all about making things up that are true," he shares early in the conversation (Andrew Limbong, [00:02]). This philosophy drives his approach to blending factual history with imaginative storytelling.

The Ancient Roman Recipe

At the heart of the novel lies a cheesecake recipe dating back to Cato the Elder, a prominent Roman statesman. Kurlansky explains, "More than 2,000 years ago, Cato did something that had never been done before. He published a recipe. Once a recipe is published, there's no telling where it will go. It may live forever. Roman senators may not be, but recipes can be" (01:26). This ancient recipe serves as the novel's central motif, symbolizing the enduring legacy of food and its ability to bridge generations.

From Katz Brothers Diner to Mykonos

The narrative primarily unfolds on a single block of New York's Upper West Side, showcasing significant transformations since the 1970s. Scott Simon introduces the setting: "Mark Kurlansky's new novel is set mostly on one block of New York's Upper west side that sees a lot of change from the 1970s on, but begins with a cheesecake, one that traces back to Cato the Elder" (01:07).

Kurlansky delves into the evolution of a local establishment initially known as the Katz Brothers Diner. Mark Kurlansky recounts, "These Greek immigrants who moved to New York to find their fortune... opened a diner and they shortened their name to Katz. They called it the Katz Diner because they were told that the neighborhood was Jewish and it was kind of a typical diner... The only thing special about it was that they made their own goat cheese in Queens. But then they started seeing that the neighborhood was changing... they decided that this was no longer a place for a Greek diner and they needed to be an upscale restaurant, which they named Mykonos. And as one of the attractions, they decided that they were going to do the Cato cheesecake recipe from 160 BCE" (02:11).

Embracing Fiction in a Nonfiction Writer's Repertoire

Despite his strong background in nonfiction, Kurlansky emphasizes his passion for storytelling through fiction. "This is my sixth book of fiction, and although I'm probably better known for nonfiction, I love writing fiction. I love telling stories, making things up. You know, fiction is all about making things up that are true" (04:02). The novel began as a collection of short stories depicting various residents’ interpretations of the Cato cheesecake recipe, which Kurlansky later wove into a cohesive narrative.

Reflecting on Neighborhood Transformation

Having lived on the Upper West Side for nearly three decades, Kurlansky offers poignant observations about the area's transformation. He notes, "I've seen tremendous change. And, you know, in a lot of ways, it's sad. A lot of people have been driven out of homes they loved... the disappearance of the landslide... People frantically Google to try to find out what that word means" (05:30). This reflection underscores the novel's exploration of community loss and cultural shifts.

A Personal Connection to Cheesecake

In a heartfelt moment, Kurlansky shares his personal favorite cheesecake, adding depth to the novel's culinary theme. "I loved my grandmother's cheesecake... It had no cream cheese in it. It was made with farmer's cheese and lemon and had a pie crust. And you don't see cheesecake like this around very often... I really like this earlier version" (05:36). This anecdote not only personalizes the narrative but also highlights the diversity of cheesecake traditions.

Conclusion

Mark Kurlansky's 'Cheesecake' offers readers a flavorful journey through time, blending ancient culinary traditions with the dynamic backdrop of New York City's Upper West Side. By intertwining historical recipes with personal and community narratives, Kurlansky crafts a story that is both informative and emotionally resonant. Whether you're a food enthusiast, a history buff, or a lover of rich, character-driven novels, 'Cheesecake' promises a satisfying read that explores the timeless essence of food and its impact on our lives.

Notable Quotes:

• Andrew Limbong: "Fiction is all about making things up that are true." (00:02)
• Mark Kurlansky: "More than 2,000 years ago, Cato did something that had never been done before. He published a recipe. Once a recipe is published, there's no telling where it will go. It may live forever. Roman senators may not be, but recipes can be." (01:26)
• Mark Kurlansky: "I loved my grandmother's cheesecake... It had no cream cheese in it. It was made with farmer's cheese and lemon and had a pie crust." (05:36)

About NPR's Book of the Day

NPR's Book of the Day is a concise, engaging podcast that highlights today's best writing across all genres. Hosted by NPR, it offers a quick yet comprehensive look at books that span various moods and writing styles, perfect for readers seeking their next great read or wishing to stay abreast of literary conversations.

Transcript

[Andrew Limbong]

Hey, it's NPR's Book of the Day. I'm Andrew Limbong. Fiction is all about making things up that are true. That's a line from today's guest, Mark Kurlansky. He's a food writer known for deep, thorough dives on subjects such as salt or oysters or cod. But he's just written a novel titled Cheesecake about a cheesecake recipe that has a legacy of more than 2,000 years. Kurlansky has written plenty of novels, actually. And in this interview with npr, Scott Simon, it seems as if for Kurlansky, fiction and nonfiction are parallel routes towards the same destination, which is the truth. That's ahead.

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[Scott Simon]

There's a saying that everything in New York winds up being about real estate. Mark Kurlansky's new novel is set mostly on one block of New York's Upper west side that sees a lot of change from the 1970s on, but begins with a cheesecake, one that traces back to Cato the Elder.

[Mark Kurlansky]

He was one of Rome's most right wing politicians, the kind of figure who could not get elected dog catcher on the Upper west side if such a position, God forbid, existed in the neighborhood. But more than 2,000 years ago, Cato did something that had never been done before. He published a recipe. Once a recipe is published, there's no telling where it will go. It may live forever. Roman senators may not be, but recipes can be.

[Scott Simon]

The novel is Cheesecake. And Mark Kurlansky, the James Beard Award winning food writer, joins us from our studios in New York. Thanks so much for being with us.

[Mark Kurlansky]

My pleasure.

[Scott Simon]

Tell us about the Katz Brothers Diner, as they come to call it, on this block of West 86th.

[Mark Kurlansky]

These Greek immigrants who moved to New York to find their fortune and they were told by people who had been there before that the way Greek immigrants get started is to have a diner. So they opened a diner and they shortened their name to Katz. They called it the Katz Diner because they were told that the neighborhood was Jewish and it was kind of a typical diner. You know, you Got cheeseburgers and fries and things. The only thing special about it was that they made their own goat cheese in Queens. But then they started seeing that the neighborhood was changing, which is what they wanted, why they came to the neighborhood. They were told it was a neighborhood in transition, and they wanted to be part of that transition and buy real estate. And at a certain point, they decided that this was no longer a place for a Greek diner and they needed to be an upscale restaurant, which they named Mykonos. And as one of the attractions, they decided that they were going to do the Cato cheesecake recipe from 160 BCE.

[Scott Simon]

And this is an actual recipe, right?

[Mark Kurlansky]

It is an actual recipe, yes. I give the recipe in the introduction of the book. One of the reasons I originally got interested in this whole idea of this cheesecake recipe, aside from the fact that it's absolutely fascinating to me that the first recipe would be for cheesecake, of all things, is that the recipe is completely incomprehensible. And if you try to follow it word for word, you end up with something totally inedible. So you can try it if you want. Good luck with that.

[Scott Simon]

You've written a number of what I'll just call deeply researched nonfiction books about food, including salt and cod. Why is Cheesecake a novel?

[Mark Kurlansky]

Well, first I should point out that it's not a new thing for me. This is my sixth book of fiction, and although I'm probably better known for nonfiction, I love writing fiction. I love telling stories, making things up. You know, fiction is all about making things up that are true. And this book actually went through an evolution. Originally, I wrote a series of short stories about different groups on 86th street who made Cato's cheesecake. And they all made it differently, and they all had very different events. And then I realized, well, wait a minute, if they're all living on the same block, they probably know each other and have contact with each other. And so I kind of mushed everything together and made it a novel.

[Scott Simon]

You've seen all this in the Upper west side, haven't you?

[Mark Kurlansky]

The food? Yeah. I mean, I've lived on this block for maybe 27, 28 years, and I've seen tremendous change. And, you know, in a lot of ways, it's sad. You know, a lot of people have been driven out of homes they loved. Some of the old Jewish people talk about the disappearance of the landslide, which is a Yiddish word, which originally meant, you know, the old Jewish community, but they mean just the old community. But now when they talk about the disappearance of the landslide. People frantically Google to try to find out what that word means.

[Scott Simon]

Look, I usually don't wind up interviews with novelists this way, but do you have a favorite cheesecake?

[Mark Kurlansky]

I loved my grandmother's cheesecake. Now my grandmother was from Lithuania, but she as a young girl her family moved to the Lower east side and she grew up in the Lower east side and she made the kind of cheesecake that was made in Eastern Europe. It had no cream cheese in it. It was made with farmer's cheese. Farmer's cheese and lemon had a pie crust. And you don't see cheesecake like this around very often. You know, in 1928, a guy named Arnold Rubin invented what is known as the New York cheesecake, which is with cream cheese and a graham cracker crust. But I really like this earlier version.

[Scott Simon]

Mark Kurlansky's new novel is Cheesecake. Thank you so much for being with us.

[Mark Kurlansky]

My pleasure talking to you, Scott.

[Andrew Limbong]

And just a reminder that signing up for book of the day plus is a great way to support NPR's book coverage and public media. And you'll get to listen to every episode sponsor free. So please go find out [e-mail] BookOfTheDay.

[Mark Kurlansky]

Foreign.

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