NPR's Book of the Day: "When Southern Women Cook" – A Deep Dive into Southern Culinary Heritage
Episode Release Date: December 19, 2024
Introduction
In this episode of NPR's Book of the Day, host Robin Young delves into the rich culinary landscape of the American South through the lens of the cookbook "When Southern Women Cook" by Tony Tipton Martin and Morgan Bowling. Published just before Thanksgiving, this book transcends traditional cookbook boundaries by intertwining recipes with essays, poetry, and historical narratives that celebrate the diverse contributions of Southern women to the region's food culture.
Meet the Authors
Tony Tipton Martin serves as Cook's Country's Editor-in-Chief and is a celebrated author with multiple accolades, including three James Beard Book Awards. Morgan Bowling, Executive Editor of Creative Content for Cook's Country, brings her expertise as a chef and food historian, enriched by her North Carolina roots. Their collaboration shines a light on the often-overlooked contributions of women—Black, white, indigenous, and immigrant—to Southern cuisine.
Essays and Structure
The book is meticulously structured into 14 chapters, each opening with an essay from a historian, author, or chef. These essays provide historical context and personal anecdotes that enrich the accompanying recipes. For instance, in the foreword, Tony Tipton Martin reflects on the collaborative spirit of Southern cooking:
“I wrote about that because John Edgerton… invited a bunch of us to come together to really explore common humanity, using food as the tool to do that. He called us the ad hoc committee.” (02:49)
Morgan Bowling elaborates on the book's unique format:
“Each begins with a little headnote that gives a little more context for the history… mixed within them are either little backstories or colorful tales or on occasion, poem.” (04:08)
Celebrating Diverse Influences
A central theme of the book is acknowledging the diverse cultural influences that shape Southern food. Tony emphasizes the importance of recognizing immigrant stories:
“We wanted to be clear about what the boundaries of the south are… we all brought our food ways with us.” (04:21)
They highlight that Southern cuisine is a melting pot, enriched by various immigrant communities. For example, the book showcases how Greek immigrants influenced barbecue traditions in Tennessee and Alabama.
Spotlight on Iconic Recipes
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Buttermilk Coleslaw (Page 124)
The concept of "permanent slaw" is introduced, a Southern tradition of maintaining an ongoing batch of coleslaw in the refrigerator, continually adding and serving from it. Although the book includes only a few variations, this concept captures the essence of communal and sustainable cooking practices in the South.
“Permanent slaw is this concept that you can find in the south of people would keep a permanent amount of coleslaw in their fridge…” (05:12)
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Hoppin' John (Page 162)
Tony shares the poignant story of Emily Meggett from Edisto Island, a culinary icon known for her red rice and other rice dishes—a legacy that reflects the Gullah Geechee culture's influence on Southern cuisine.
“Emily Meggett is an iconic woman from Edistoe island in the Carolinas… her recipe collection went on to be a New York Times bestseller.” (05:53)
Red Rice, a staple in the Gullah Geechee tradition, is described as:
“A Sea Islands, Gullah Geechee specialty… it descends from a West African dish, which is jollof rice.” (06:55)
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Gobi Manchurian
An intriguing inclusion is the traditional Indian dish Gobi Manchurian, showcasing the South's adaptability and the integration of global flavors. Morgan explains its presence in Southern cuisine through the influence of Indian chefs in places like Asheville.
“We have a dinner series… representing it in this really interesting way in the South.” (07:51)
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Dauberge Cake
This dessert exemplifies the fusion of German and Southern culinary traditions. Originally the Dauberge Torte from German culture, it has been adapted into the Southern variant with syrup, buttercream, and ganache.
“It's a recipe rooted in German culture… adapted according to perhaps what's going on culturally.” (09:16)
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Aunt Jules Pie
Perhaps the most significant narrative is the restoration of Aunt Jules Pie, originally known as Jefferson Davis Pie, named after an enslaved woman rather than the Confederate general. This act of reclaiming the recipe honors Aunt Jewel's legacy and corrects historical oversights.
“We were able to give credit… we know the name of the cook, and her name was Aunt Jewel.” (10:44)
The adapted recipe by activist baker Arleigh Bell reinvigorates this traditional dish, making it a modern favorite alongside pecan pie.
Cultural and Historical Insights
Tony and Morgan emphasize that Southern cuisine cannot be seen in isolation. It's a reflection of the region's history, geography, and the myriad communities that have shaped it. Recipes in the book are not merely instructions for cooking but are stories of resilience, adaptation, and community.
“American foodways are based on diverse contributions of a lot of different people… it's the global south and make that a modern intervention.” (08:36)
Conclusion
"When Southern Women Cook" is more than a cookbook; it is a tribute to the women who have silently shaped Southern culinary traditions. Through thoughtful essays and meticulously curated recipes, Tony Tipton Martin and Morgan Bowling offer readers a profound understanding of the South's gastronomic heritage. As Robin Young aptly summarizes:
“It's just this wonderful, rich, deep book…. we toast Aunt Juold at Thanksgiving.” (12:34)
This episode of NPR's Book of the Day invites listeners to explore and appreciate the intricate tapestry of Southern food culture, celebrating its past while inspiring future culinary endeavors.
Notable Quotes with Timestamps
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Tony Tipton Martin (02:49):
“…using food as the tool to do that. He called us the ad hoc committee.”
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Morgan Bowling (04:08):
“…little backstories or colorful tales or on occasion, poem.”
-
Tony Tipton Martin (04:21):
“We all brought our food ways with us.”
-
Morgan Bowling (05:12):
“...people would keep a permanent amount of coleslaw in their fridge…”
-
Tony Tipton Martin (05:53):
“Emily Meggett is an iconic woman from Edistoe island in the Carolinas…”
-
Tony Tipton Martin (06:55):
“It descends from a West African dish, which is jollof rice.”
-
Morgan Bowling (07:51):
“...representing it in this really interesting way in the South.”
-
Tony Tipton Martin (08:36):
“...make that a modern intervention.”
-
Tony Tipton Martin (10:44):
“We were able to give credit… we know the name of the cook, and her name was Aunt Jewel.”
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Robin Young (12:34):
“...we toast Aunt Juold at Thanksgiving.”
"When Southern Women Cook" is available for those eager to immerse themselves in the stories and flavors that define Southern cuisine. Whether you're a culinary enthusiast or simply passionate about history and culture, this book offers a delectable journey through time and tradition.