Is Raf Simons finally back? Is Rick Owens still the GOAT? Did Jonathan Anderson fumble his AW27 Dior menswear show? Why does Dsquared2 keep putting giant furry hats on models—and why do we respect it?

Sol and Michael break down 2026's Paris Fashion Week and Milan Fashion Week with their most unfiltered runway reviews yet. Which designers are cooking? Which creative directors are washed? Find out.

RUNWAY REVIEWS:

Prada FW26: High button holes, dirty French cuffs, and silhouettes echoing early Raf archive (Riot Riot Riot era). A genuine return to form—dressing cool young people, not runway theater.

Rick Owens "TOWER": Military fashion without cosplay. Exaggerated shoulders replace traditional epaulets. Comparisons to Concordians, Porterville, Hollywood, Temple, and Lido—this might be his best of the past 5 years.

Jonathan Anderson — Dior Men's AW27: Paul Poiret references and "heritage meets subversion" press notes that don't translate.

Dsquared2 FW26: Dean and Dan Caten deliver giant furry hats, Olympic ski aesthetics, and jacked models with chiseled jawlines.

Ralph Lauren FW26: Is Ralph pandering to the Aime Leon Dore and Bodé crowd? Vintage Polo Sport looks feel five years late to the Lower East Side menswear revival. But the tailoring buried later—velvet tuxedos, opera loafers, herringbone Chesterfields, cutaway collars—still hits.

Balenciaga FW26 (Pierpaolo Piccioli): Post-Demna disappointment. Zara-coded varsity bombers, incoherent lookbook energy.

Soshio Otsuki — Pitti Uomo 2026: The Japanese designer making YSL-inspired power suits for men. Double-breasted blazers for $600, Boro stitching collabs, jumpsuit-illusion suiting.

Also discussed: Demna's Gucci debut, Louis Vuitton under Pharrell, London vs. New York street style, British tailoring culture, Rolling Dub Trio and Kozaburo boots, making a horse leather Birkin, and whether Dolce & Gabbana discourse is just an easy accountability checkbox.

QUESTIONS ANSWERED:

→ What did Raf Simons show at Prada FW26?

→ Who is the best designer of 2026?

→ Who is the new Dior menswear creative director?

→ Is Ralph Lauren copying Aime Leon Dore?

→ What happened to Balenciaga after Demna?

→ Who is Soshio Otsuki?

→ What is the high button hole trend?

→ What are the best Paris Fashion Week FW26 collections?

→ London vs. New York: Who dresses better?

Sol Thompson and Michael Smith explore the world and subcultures of fashion, interviewing creators, personalities, and industry insiders to highlight the new vanguard of the fashion world. Subscribe for weekly uploads of the podcast, and don’t forgot to follow us on our social channels for additional content, and join our discord to access what we’ve dubbed “the happiest place in fashion”.

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