We head to Périgord—the historic heart of France's fertile Dordogne region—to map a four-color journey through Noir, Blanc, Pourpre, and Vert: cliffside castles, prehistoric cave art, limestone towns, vineyard hills, and green valleys stitched with old paper mills.

Our guests, Stephanie Williamson and Emily Conyngham, know the area from the inside, with details and choices that shape a smarter, quieter trip.

We start in Périgord Noir, using Sarlat’s 14th-century streets and market days as our base, then climb to the hedged terraces of Marqueyssac for that golden-hour view as hot air balloons drift above the river. From there, we decode the caves—how to experience Lascaux’s faithful replica without harming fragile art, and why early mornings and shoulder seasons pay off.

In Périgord Blanc, limestone brightens the landscape around Perigueux, subterranean churches carve sanctuaries from rock, and truffle culture comes alive with local hunters and their Lagotto dogs. It’s not just about the black diamonds; it’s about stories passed down, guarded groves, and the rhythm of the forest.

Périgord Pourpre brings the glass to your hand: Bergerac reds, Montbazillac’s famed sweet whites, and wine trails that weave past châteaux like Lanquais, the “Unfinished Louvre.” We connect history to taste, from old trade routes to today’s small estates where conversation is part of the pour.

Finally, Périgord Vert opens the lungs: forest walks, rivers, mills, and quiet paths that invite you to slow down and notice. Along the way, we talk duck and foie gras, chestnuts, mushrooms, strawberries, and why summer reservations matter even in small towns.

For would-be expats and for tourists, we end with memories covering language, cost of living, healthcare realities, and the charming community fabric that makes this quieter side of France so very special.

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Our guests are Stephanie Williamson, CEO and founder of Raison d'être travel that plans customized itineraries worldwide; and Emily Conyngham, who moved to the region in 2014 from the United States and owns a shop in Monpazier called Atelier Charmont.

Podcast host Lea Lane has traveled to over 100 countries, and has written nine books, including the award-winning Places I Remember (Kirkus Reviews star rating, and 'one of the top 100 Indie books of the year'). She has contributed to dozens of guidebooks and has written thousands of travel articles. Contact her at placesirememberlealane.com
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Our award-winning travel podcast, Places I Remember with Lea Lane, has produced over 125 travel episodes! New episodes drop on the first Tuesday of the month, on Apple, Spotify, and wherever you listen to podcasts.
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Peaceful Périgord, France: Chateaux, Caves, Cuisine