Post Reports: Bacon - The Best-Kept Secret in Washington
Published on November 27, 2024
Hosts: Martine Powers and Elahe Izadi
Podcast: Post Reports by The Washington Post
Episode Title: Bacon: The Best-Kept Secret in Washington
Introduction: A Culinary Enigma in the Heart of Power
In this captivating episode of Post Reports, host Shane Harris delves into an unexpected intersection of culinary art and American political power. Taking a break from his usual coverage of national security and intelligence communities, Harris embarks on a decade-long quest to uncover the secrets behind a coveted candied bacon recipe, famously known as "Vangie's Bacon." This exploration serves as a lens to examine the intricate social fabric of Washington, D.C., where elite dinner parties have historically influenced national and international policies.
Notable Quote:
Shane Harris [00:02]: "This is a story about a sweet, meaty treat that has been at the center of American power for decades."
The Mystery Unfolds: Ben Bradley’s After-Party and the Bacon Revelation
The journey begins in October 2014, following the death of Ben Bradley, the legendary editor of The Washington Post. While attending an article about Bradley's exclusive after-party, Shane Harris notices a brief, enigmatic mention of "bacon" among the sumptuous menu descriptions: "ham and biscuits, chicken, chocolate brownies, and bacon" [03:02]. This scant reference piques Harris's curiosity, leading him to consult with Carol Joint, his colleague and a seasoned observer of Washington's social scene.
Notable Quotes:
Carol Joint [02:04]: "No."
Odette Pereira [01:54]: "She's the key."
Unveiling Vangie Bruce and Her Legendary Bacon
Harris's investigation reveals that "bacon" refers to a unique candied bacon recipe crafted by Odette Pereira, the personal cook of Evangeline "Vangie" Bruce. Vangie Bruce, alongside her husband David Ke Bruce, was a prominent figure in Washington's post-World War II elite, hosting elaborate dinner parties that brought together influential Democrats, Republicans, diplomats, journalists, and intelligence officers. These gatherings, often centered in Georgetown, were more than social events; they were crucibles where significant policies were debated and forged.
Insights from Historian Greg Herkin [08:28]:
"They got together very often on Sunday nights in what was called the Sunday Night Supper, and discussed the current events in American foreign policy."
The Georgetown Set: A Nexus of Power and Policy
The episode underscores the pivotal role of the "Georgetown Set," a close-knit enclave of Washington's most influential individuals. Led by figures like the Grahams, Wisners, Dulles, Alsops, and the Kennedys, this group utilized social gatherings to build alliances, exchange information, and shape U.S. foreign policy. Central to these interactions was Evangeline Bruce's signature candied bacon, which symbolized inclusion and prestige among attendees.
Notable Quotes:
Sally Quinn [27:05]: "They needed a way to exchange information and to meet each other."
Roxanne Roberts [28:25]: "Dinner parties really were the nexus of this informal power Washington."
Decoding the Secret Recipe: A Decade-Long Pursuit
Determined to replicate Vangie's Bacon, Harris faces numerous challenges. Despite extensive research and countless attempts to recreate the dish using publicly available candied bacon recipes, none match the distinctive balance of sweet and savory that made Vangie's Bacon legendary. His pursuit leads him to Odette Pereira, the sole custodian of the original recipe, who steadfastly refuses to disclose its secrets, honoring a vow of silence made to Vangie Bruce.
Notable Quotes:
Shane Harris [10:26]: "I have not stopped thinking about it."
Odette Pereira [10:43]: "It's the key."
Facing Rejection and Finding Collaboration
After persistent efforts and a decade of dead ends, Harris teams up with Post producer Ted Muldoon and Odette Pereira herself to attempt a hands-on recreation of the elusive bacon recipe. This collaborative effort not only brings the recipe into focus but also offers a nostalgic glimpse into the bygone era of Washington's social elite.
Notable Interaction:
Shane Harris [35:26]: "Come on inside."
Odette Pereira [35:34]: "I've never been in Washington Post."
Recreating Vangie's Bacon: The Process Unveiled
In a meticulously detailed demonstration, Harris, Muldoon, and Odette navigate the complexities of making Vangie's Bacon. The process involves layering dark brown sugar both beneath and atop the bacon strips before slow-cooking them to achieve the perfect caramelized balance. Odette emphasizes precision and sensory cues—color and aroma—to determine the bacon's readiness, highlighting the recipe's artisanal nature.
Step-by-Step Highlights:
- Layering Sugar: "Put the sugar all over the tray, over the bacon."
- Cooking Temperature: "Oven at 300 degrees."
- Turning and Coating: "You have to turn it over and dredge it through the caramelized syrup."
- Final Test: The bacon strip must stand upright when held vertically.
Notable Quotes:
Odette Pereira [36:34]: "You put the sugar all over there."
Shane Harris [42:37]: "This is what I remember from the first time I tried the bacon."
Historical Context: Evangeline and David Ke Bruce’s Legacy
Harris provides a rich historical backdrop, detailing Evangeline Bruce's pivotal role as a diplomatic hostess alongside her husband, David Ke Bruce—a high-ranking OSS (Office of Strategic Services) official who later became a prominent diplomat post-World War II. Their international postings and social gatherings played a significant role in shaping U.S. foreign policy through informal diplomacy, with the candied bacon serving as both a culinary and symbolic cornerstone of their social influence.
Notable Quotes:
Evangelane Bruce [26:00]: "We were partners in every sense of the word."
Shane Harris [25:49]: "She grew up all over the world, moving between Italy, Sweden, France, Holland, Great Britain, China, Switzerland."
Reflections on the Evolution of Washington’s Social Diplomacy
As the episode progresses, Harris reflects on the transformation of Washington's social dynamics. The once unifying, bipartisan social gatherings that fostered consensus and collaborative policy-making have given way to a more polarized and fragmented political environment. The loss of such convivial settings raises questions about the current state of informal diplomacy and the potential consequences for effective governance.
Notable Quotes:
Roxanne Roberts [33:09]: "There is virtually no respect for each other as human beings or fellow patriots."
Shane Harris [34:57]: "I think today you have to wonder if the best version of that diplomacy and its promise is actually lost."
Conclusion: Preserving Culinary and Diplomatic Legacies
In a heartfelt conclusion, Harris successfully tastes the recreated Vangie's Bacon, affirming its unparalleled flavor and the significance it holds within Washington's elite circles. The episode not only uncovers a delicious culinary secret but also serves as a poignant commentary on the evolving landscape of political and social interactions in the nation's capital.
Closing Remarks:
Shane Harris [44:02]: "This story was reported by me, Shane Harris, and produced by Ted Muldoon. It was edited by Maggie Penman and Mernita Jablonski."
Epilogue: A Recipe to Remember
As Thanksgiving approaches, Harris plans to share Odette Pereira's resurrected bacon recipe at his own dinner parties, honoring both the culinary tradition and the intricate tapestry of Washington's power structures that it represents.
Final Thought:
Shane Harris [44:48]: "I'm making this recipe for Thanksgiving, and I plan to serve it at dinner parties at my house, too."
Special Thanks: Ariel Plotnik and Ariella Markowitz
Archival Footage: David Ke Bruce, Harry S. Truman Library and Museum
Production Team: Ted Muldoon, Maggie Penman, Mernita Jablonski
Happy Thanksgiving!