Post Reports: Dinner with The Post’s Food Critic

Date: October 16, 2025
Host: Martine Powers (B), with Tom Sietsema (C), audio producer Ariel Plotnick (noted but doesn’t contribute in transcript)
Episode Theme:
A candid, behind-the-scenes journey into the career—and philosophy—of Tom Sietsema, the Washington Post’s food critic, in celebration of his 25th anniversary on the job. Host Martine Powers joins Tom for dinner to dig into his process, memorable moments, and advice for diners.

Episode Overview

The episode is both a retrospective on Tom Sietsema’s celebrated career and a practical guide to the art of dining out and restaurant criticism. Listeners are invited to the table for a real restaurant experience with Sietsema, exploring how he navigates anonymity, approaches reviews, maintains his critical edge, and connects with his audience. The episode balances behind-the-scenes anecdotes with actionable suggestions for everyday diners.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Life and Process as a Restaurant Critic

• Anonymity is Essential:
  Tom has dined incognito for decades, going to great lengths to prevent restaurant staff from recognizing him.
  “I have credit cards and different names. I have about 15 or so.” (C, 08:43)
  “I took someone out from the CIA…she goes, it sounds like we work for the same place, you know?” (C, 08:57)
• Restaurant Selection:
  Sietsema aims for diversity in venues—high-end, midrange, casual, and across neighborhoods and cuisines.
  “I think it's the responsibility of a critic to vary it up a little bit from price level, from neighborhood, from location, from cuisine type.” (C, 05:52)
• Frequency & Intensity:
  Tom dines out 8–10 times per week, attending both dinners and multiple lunches or brunches.
  “I go to eight to ten restaurants a week.” (C, 06:19)

2. The Mechanics of Reviewing

• Evaluation Methods:
  Visits each restaurant multiple times and at different times for a fuller picture.
  “A restaurant Monday night is different from a restaurant on Saturday night is different from lunch on a Wednesday.” (C, 06:54)
• Order and Taste Strategy:
  Orders a wide variety of dishes on each visit—meat, fish, vegetarian, grilled, fried—to assess quality and menu breadth. Utilizes up to 70 dining companions for different perspectives and dietary needs.
  “I do pass plates discreetly.” (C, 10:46)
• Note-Taking Tactics:
  Now uses a phone to record thoughts clandestinely during meals.
  “Now we have these things called phones. And I can just be like anyone else in the dining room…” (C, 16:31)
  If needed, retreats to the restroom to jot down details.
• Disguises and Fake IDs:
  Has experimented with disguises, especially earlier in his career, and uses fake names and credit cards to avoid being recognized.
  “You don't want to be obvious to people. You want to kind of blend in.” (C, 09:43)

3. The Responsibility and Emotional Labor of Criticism

• Ethical Approach:
  Sietsema feels a deep responsibility to readers, knowing they are spending their hard-earned money—sometimes on significant occasions.
  “I feel like people are trusting you with some of their biggest life moments. Whether they're proposing or it's grandma's 90th or a divorce dinner…” (C, 21:06)
• Balancing Critique and Enjoyment:
  Can still find joy in dining even when operating critically, but must recall details for his review while others are relaxing.
  “You want to remember the funny thing that the waiter said and the sauce that went on that duck breast and all that. You have to remember all those details.” (C, 16:05)
• Handling Disagreement:
  Embraces readers who disagree with him, viewing feedback as a two-way street.
  “Certainly there are lots of people who disagree with me too, and I feel like I learn from them all.” (C, 22:30)

4. The Good, the Bad, and the Middling Reviews

• Writing Challenges:
  Greatest writing challenge is covering the “middle ground”—making reviews of mediocre restaurants compelling and useful.
  “The hardest reviews to write…Mostly is write about that middle ground.” (C, 18:10)
• Memorable Negative Reviews:
  Not shy about scathing reviews when warranted.
  • Quote: “Never mind that it's noon. Order a Sazerac. It will help you forget what you're about to eat.” (on Founding Farmers, B quoting C, 18:10)
  • Quote: “Someone needs to put a stop to this threat to our nation.” (on LaTagliatelle, B quoting C, 18:41)
• Selective Coverage:
  Visits roughly 125 restaurants per year; skips writing about 30-50 that aren’t worth readers’ attention, especially not “going after” struggling small businesses.
  “I'm not going to go after a bad mom and pop in the suburbs. Like, what's the point of that?” (C, 20:05)

5. The Changing Landscape: Critics vs. Influencers

• Rise of Social Reviews:
  Acknowledges that Yelp, Google reviews, and influencers have diluted the power of traditional critics, but views this as healthy competition.
  “Welcome competition. I think it keeps critics on their toes. I think the more the merrier.” (C, 23:50)
• What Sets Critics Apart:
  Critic’s credibility comes from a documented body of work, context, and long-term expertise.
  “They know that I've been doing this for a while. I always like to be perceived as your best friend who happens to eat out a little bit more than you do.” (C, 23:50)

6. Advice for Better Dining

• Attitude is Everything:
  Encourages diners to show up with a good attitude, which staff pick up on and often reward.
  “Even if I know I'm going to a restaurant that I'm probably not gonna review favorably, I always wanna go in with a good attitude. You'd be surprised at how that is picked up by the staff.” (C, 25:14)
• Engagement over Distraction:
  Emphasizes the value of being present during a meal and not succumbing to phone distractions.
  “Go in with a good attitude, and you'd be surprised… Leave your work stuff behind, your stuff with, like, relationship stuff, you know.” (C, 25:14)
• Seat without a Reservation:
  Suggests polite persistence and flexibility when seeking a table at popular spots; being friendly goes a long way.
  “Just say, I would so like to join you for dinner tonight. I don't have a reservation, but I'd be willing to take whatever table.” (C, 25:14)
• Routine vs. Adventure:
  Sees value in both chasing the newest places and sticking with trusted favorites—ultimately, whatever brings comfort and joy.
  “There's something really wonderful about identifying and patronizing a handful of restaurants where they know you always get your table.” (C, 27:55)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On anonymity and subterfuge:
  “I have credit cards and different names. I have about 15 or so.” (C, 08:43)
  “This is like being in the CIA.” (B, 08:55)
  “It sounds like we work for the same place, you know?” (C, 08:57)
• On responsibility to readers:
  “I feel like people are trusting you with some of their biggest life moments.” (C, 21:06)
• On making tough calls:
  “The hardest reviews to write…is write about that middle ground.” (C, 18:10)
• On the joy of eating:
  “Sometimes, but rarely. Because you always get hungry again. It's true.” (C, 17:30)
• On the dining out mindset:
  “Leave your work stuff behind, your stuff with, like, relationship stuff, you know, go in with a good attitude…” (C, 25:14)
• On his own future after retirement:
  “I want to have six or seven places where it doesn't matter what I used to do. I just go in knowing that I will get good service, get a nice table, not have to try everything on the menu. That sounds kind of nice sometimes, right?” (C, 28:19)

Timestamps for Important Segments

• Tom explains his reviewing process and secrecy: 05:52–10:46
• On frequency and diversity of restaurant visits: 06:16–06:54
• On anonymity, disguises, and credit cards: 08:10–09:43
• Navigating ordering dynamics and maximizing menu coverage: 10:11–11:22
• Tom describes emotional demands and enjoyment of the job: 15:01–17:28
• Dealing with reader relationships and feedback: 20:16–22:45
• Critics vs. Yelp and the digital age: 22:45–24:35
• Tom’s advice for being a better diner: 25:14–26:54
• Embracing familiar favorites vs. pursuing new places: 27:12–28:39

Flow & Tone

The episode is conversational, warm, and lightly humorous, with Tom Sietsema as an affable, self-deprecating guide to both the pleasures and demands of high-level food criticism. Martine’s curiosity and genuine admiration for Tom create a relaxed, celebratory energy.

Conclusion

This unique dinner with Tom Sietsema is not just about the food—it’s about the interplay of expertise, humility, and joy that makes great criticism and great dining. Tom’s parting insights remind listeners that the key to enjoying restaurants—whether new or familiar, acclaimed or under-the-radar—is an openness to experience and a willingness to connect.