Advertisement Speaker 5 (35:56)
I am from New York and I am very much a New Yorker. But I moved to North Carolina in 2010. There was family stuff and money problems and the booze. The booze. I plan to stay in North Carolina for a while, but two years later, in the spring of 2012, I need to leave. I need to get out. Once again, I am broke. I am drinking too much. And this time it feels different. Really different. Something needs to change and change fast. So I start looking for ESL teaching gigs. I've done this on and off for years. English as a second language. It doesn't really matter where. Sure, there's the adventure, the wanderlust, the different cultures, all of that cool. But really, it just needs to pay well. And I find something great. Pay and perks. And I learned that drinking is illegal in this country. So I can also get dry. It is perfect. I apply, I interview, I get the job. It all happens so quickly. I'll be teaching English as a second language in Saudi Arabia. Paperwork is sent over. I see a bunch of questions. Then I see one about religion. Nobody said anything about religion in the interview. My name is Sean Wellington. I am Jewish. I do not know how I have this name, but I do. And I don't practice. I'm barely Jewish. Nonetheless, I do some Googling, try to learn a little more. And I do. I learned in Saudi Arabia, and this is 2012, that Jews are de facto illegal, but de jure not illegal. I read this line a few times. I'm focusing on the de jure. That's the stuff that really matters. It doesn't say that Jews are legal. It just says they're not illegal. No idea what this means in practice, but I'm still going. I mean, that question about religion. I check N A or maybe it was other. I check that box and I tell a few people that I'm leaving and where I'm going. A couple of them seem worried, weren't worried at all when I taught in Japan or Argentina. I say, don't worry about it. It's gonna be fine. I need to leave. I need to make some money, and I need to stop drinking. One academic year in outdone. Six weeks later, I arrive in Riyadh, the capital of Saudi Arabia. And I learn a lot about this place in the first week already I can tell it is a beautiful country, real big sun, really kind people. I also learned that if you take a photo in the mall, you will get stopped. And the mutwa, the religious police, they will take your phone and you will be scared because you don't know exactly what's on that phone. And you do not know what will happen if they find something they don't like. And the one who speaks some English will say, don't take photos in public because you might take a photo of a woman and then there'll be a pause and he'll look you in the eyes and he'll say, never take photos of women in Saudi Arabia. I also learn about the central square. This is where you can go, though I did not to watch executions. And one of the reasons you might be executed is waging war on God. Waging war on God. I do not know what this means. And I am not criticizing anything about Saudi Arabia. But after learning this about a week in, I'm starting to feel scared. I'm scared because I feel like this might not be the right place for a guy like me. Yeah, I'm Jewish and I'm a New Yorker. A friend of mine recently told me, sean, you are constitutionally unable to keep your mouth shut. And she's not wrong. I've got this thing, this tendency I always have. I don't filter so much. I test things out. I search for learning shit and the truth. And sometimes I step over these boundaries and I get in a little trouble. In fact, I think I do it more now in middle age than I ever have. It's weird, but it's true. And I kinda like it. Breaking the rules, but only when I know what'll happen when I get caught. And I don't know that here I don't know what'll happen. So, okay, no photos of Saudi women, no waging war on God, whatever that means. I'll just keep my mouth shut and follow the rules. A couple days later, I go to orientation. King Saud University, that's where I'll be teaching. And there's teachers from all over the world. It's pretty cool. And that's when the higher ups, they show us the rules. The rules for the classroom. A list of more than 40 topics we cannot talk about. No exceptions. None. The ones you might expect. Politics, religion, sex. But others, there are so many others. Sports and cars and travel. I don't get it. I get my schedule. I'm teaching an advanced class, which means these kids, 18, 19, 20 year old kids, they can already have a solid conversation. But I can't imagine what we're going to talk about. I'm hoping the textbook. That'll give me some ideas, but it doesn't. It's boring, like most textbooks. But hey, it's a job. I know why I'm here. And I haven't drunk since I got here more than a week ago. Day one. I meet my students. 17 of them. All young men. That's how it goes in the kingdom. They don't look like the college kids in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. Mostly it's how they dress. They wear these really nice long white robes called thobs and sandals. I get to it that first day in the classroom. I teach, they practice, we leave. And this is how it goes, right? And sometimes they'll ask questions. And some of those questions I'm not allowed to answer. I'm not allowed So I deflect or I make a face or shrug my shoulders. I teach, they practice. We leave. Keep your mouth shut, Sean. Follow the rules. Summer turns into fall. I've settled in some. I'm going to the gym every day, no drinking. And I've made a few friends, but it's hard, and it feels like it's getting harder and harder. Some teachers have quit. I tell one of those new friends I made a teacher friend that I'm thinking of quitting as well. I say, no, this might not be the right place for me. I mean, I know my students names, they wear the thobs, they pray here at the school twice a day. But I have questions. I've got a lot of questions that I'm not allowed to ask them. And they have questions too, that I'm not allowed to answer. Now, my teacher friend, he's Middle Eastern and Muslim, so he knows the lay of the land. He knows how things work. I say, look, if I break any of those rules, nothing major, you know, the ones in the classroom, what's gonna happen? Will I get reprimanded? Maybe sent home? Possibly something worse? And he says he doesn't know. But then he tells me, you know, Sean, there are royal princes all around this school. They dress the same, so you won't know if they're a prince or not. And I'm sure you have one in your class. I nod my head, okay. He doesn't answer my question about breaking the rules. He does have a look on his face. I feel like he's saying, be careful. Back in the classroom with this new piece of information, one of my students, Fahad, he asks a question. Fahad is 19 years old. He's been abroad. He's traveled more than the other students. He's the guy that wears the sneakers, the Nike or the Adidas. And he asks me why I came here to the kingdom. He has asked me this question before. Others have asked me this question as well. And I answer it. I say, fahad, I came here to teach English. I came here to learn about your culture. But at this point, I think everybody in the classroom knows it's more than just that. Don't know what will happen if I say the wrong thing, but I feel like I need to talk a little bit more, more. I need to share a little bit more. And so I just say it, the truth. I also needed to make some money. That's another reason why I came here. And they laugh. Fahat says, you came to the right place if you want to make money. Things change some after that in the classroom, we're learning a little bit more about each other. We don't talk about religion, sex or politics. None of that. I mean, there's a prince in my classroom, after all. But we're talking. And, yeah, I'm breaking the rules a little bit, pushing the boundaries some, but I like it. I really like it. And one day in early spring, a few of them, they invite me to lunch after class. Fahad says it's all on the DL. He knows the slang, right? And we meet, and I eat their food at a restaurant where they come with their families, and they tell me more about their lives. And I do the same stuff we do not talk about in the classroom. And I like these guys. I've come to trust them. So right there in the restaurant, I just tell them the other reason I came here. Booze. I need to quit drinking. Definitely on the list. Can't talk about that. But we're not at school. We're not in a classroom. And they laugh. And Fahad says he came to the right place to quit drinking. And now it's late spring, and I've made it to the end of the academic year. Almost many teachers have quit. It's still hard. But here I am back in the classroom, and there's a question, and it's from Fahad. Now, I have been waiting for a question about religion or politics or sex, the stuff we do not talk about and cannot talk about. Fahad's question is about 9, 11. They want to know more about me. Where I was, what I think. And look, at this point, they've shared a lot with me. So I tell them that I was there in New York, watched the towers come down. I learned about those deaths, all of them. And I see a friend of mine, she was in Tower One. I'm just sticking to the facts here. It's gotta be safe, right? Everyone's listening, all 17. And I think, you know, I've made it this far. I'm almost done. I haven't gotten in any trouble. And this feels important to talk about this. And that's what I do. I mean, it's a constitutional thing, right? So I tell him, look, guys, I don't know what's true. I really don't. Just what I've heard. I look back at the door, the classroom door, make sure it's closed. It is, I say. What I've learned is that the people on the planes and the people that were behind it, at least some of them, they were from Saudi Arabia. Seventeen kids. Young men. I'm looking at their faces. They were kids back then. And this time nobody's laughing. Fahad says, no, it was the Jews. They're behind everything. They were behind 9, 11. He's smiling and I can see his new puma's under his thob. The others are nodding. And I wonder, did I just wage war against God? I want to say something. I really do. I mean, I want to tell him I'm a Jew. I'm Jewish. Your teacher, the one you've gotten to know all of these months, the one who you've shared stuff with all of these months. The guy that went out to the restaurant with you. All of that. But I don't. I say nothing. Not about any of this stuff no more. But we do talk. We mostly disagree, but we talk. And that feels really good. That week there is a meeting with some higher ups and I'm asked to leave 10 days before my contract ends. No drama, just go quietly. I get my last paycheck, as promised. I really want to head somewhere to have a drink. I want to drink. But I can't. I can't. I also want so much to ask Fahad, were you the prince? But I can't. No goodbyes, no teachers, students, and no Fahad. I never get to know if he's a prince. And he never gets to know that I'm a Jew. Nobody does. But here's the thing, for a guy like me, big mouth, rule breaking New Yorker. Yeah, Saudi Arabia can be dangerous. And it can also be beautiful. I made the money and the booze out of my system and I'm heading home. So, Fahad, I didn't always agree with you, but you were right about one thing. Because in the end, and I came to the right place.