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It is the 1st of May 1976. A strange looking vessel set sail from the harbor in Maui, the second largest island in Hawaii. It resembles a large catamaran with two red canoes joined by wooden beams and a covered platform where the crew of 20 people can rest, eat and take shelter with when off duty. High above their heads, two triangular canvas sails catch the breeze, and the twin hulls slice through the water like fins. As the peaks of Hawaii shrink on the horizon, the crew settle down for a long and uncertain journey. A man called MAU Piailug is in charge. He's not the captain, but the success of this voyage will depend on his skills. He comes from the island of Satawal in the remote Caroline Archipelago. His father and grandfather were celebrated sailors. From then he learned navigational techniques known as the Talk of the Sea. Now he faces his greatest test. Though Mao has no map, compass or coordinates, he knows the way. Their destination is Tahiti, in French Polynesia, an island 2,600 nautical miles south. They see nothing but ocean and clouds, but Mao sails on. Days turn to weeks. The crew catch fish and turtles for food. They tend to the needs of their cargo in the hull of one of the canoes, feeding their dog, pigs and chickens, and they open a large trunk to check their collection of plants. These seedlings are carefully wrapped in cloth to protect them from contamination by seawater. They need to arrive in good enough condition to establish fields of crops to feed a new colony. The boat is called Hkulea, the Hawaiian name for the zenith star of this region. By night, Mao uses the star as one signpost on a great celestial pathway. During the day, he reads the clouds and currents as he charts their course. The crew adjust the great sails, and they plunge deeper into the Pacific. Soon Mao reaches unfamiliar celestial territory. His usual reference point, the North Star, isn't visible once they cross the equator. He hasn't been this far south before and had to memorize Southern Hemisphere star courses before the trip. He can't control the elements either. When the wind drops the boat languishes in the doldrums for days. The crew pass the time by strumming tunes on a traditional ukulele. But Mao watches the sky with bloodshot eyes. A navigator cannot sleep for more than a few minutes or the boat may go off course. At the first breath of wind, Mao gives a cry. The crew hoist the sails. The canvas bulges, and soon water is rushing beneath the canoes once again. On June 1, one month after they left Hawaii, Mao is at the helm. As he shields his eyes against the glare of the sun reflecting off the tranquil water, something catches his eye. It's a bird flying towards the south. Knowing there's only one thing this can mean, Mao calls excitedly to the crew. He scans the horizon to confirm what he already knows. The bird must be heading home to roost after feeding out at sea. It means there is land in the distance. True enough. Three days later, the Hookulea arrives in Tahiti. As the red hull slides into Papeeta harbor, the crew cannot believe their eyes. News of their arrival has beaten them. Here, the shore is lined with people, the sea strewn with canoes, the trees so full of children that their branches bend down into the water. The governor of the island has declared a public holiday to celebrate the arrival of the Hookulea. Amid a carnival atmosphere, Maui is hailed a hero. For the first time in maybe 600 years, a canoe has crossed the Pacific. Using no modern instruments, only traditional navigation, it has safely transported people, produce and livestock, just like the ancient ancestors centuries earlier. Some historians have claimed that it wasn't possible. So this is a cultural triumph, proof that there is truth behind the legends of epic sea journeys. One small step for MAU Pialug is one giant leap of pride for the Polynesian people. Modern genetics tells us that the residents of the far flung Polynesian islands are one of the most closely related people in the world, but also the most widely dispersed. Their ancestors explored the Pacific in ocean going canoes, discovering new homes thousands of miles away. The feat has been compared to humankind's missions into space. Their isolation from the rest of the world meant the islanders developed a unique and vibrant culture. There are shared histories and practices between islands, but also diverse languages and legends. So what do these people scattered across 1,000 islands have in common? How did the earliest pioneers survive epic journeys at sea? And what enables sailors without any form of writing or physical mapmaking, to navigate such vast distances? I'm John Hopkins from Noise of this is a short history of Polynesian exploration. Modern maps are misleading. They are not drawn to scale. If they were, they wouldn't be much use to us. If the Pacific islands were depicted in proportion to the ocean, they'd be as tiny as atoms, invisible to the naked eye. In reality, the Pacific spans half the circumference of the globe. All the Earth's landmasses could fit in it with room to spare. The first people to explore the continent known as Oceania arrive during an ice age that lowers sea levels enough to let them walk there, mostly on foot, with occasional short water crossings. No one knows what kind of boats the ancient people use. But 50,000 years ago, groups of humans colonize Australia and New Guinea. They are cut off again when land bridges sink beneath rising seas. And they develop in isolation for millennia. Then, around 4,000 years ago, the first seafarers arrive. Unlike the indigenous peoples of Australia or New guinea, they stick to the coast, rarely venturing far inland. A study of linguistics suggests that they originate in Taiwan, but move south over many generations, island hopping through the Philippines and Indonesia. By 1500 BC they have settled widely in what is now called the Bismarck Islands, an archipelago above New guinea, which itself lies off the northern coast of Australia. Dr. Christina Thompson is editor of the Harvard Review and author of the book Sea the Puzzle of Polynesia.
