Podcast Summary: Short Wave – "Should You Try Red-Light Therapy?"
Date: September 22, 2025
Host: Regina Barber (NPR)
Guest Expert: Dr. Michelle Wong (PhD Chemist, Lab Muffin Beauty Science)
Episode Overview
This episode explores the growing trend of red-light therapy (RLT)–in particular, its claims to reverse skin aging and improve skin health. Host Regina Barber, prompted by her own curiosity and personal experimentation, speaks with Dr. Michelle Wong to dig into the real science behind the “red-light remedy.” The conversation uncovers where the evidence stands, what consumers should look out for, and how RLT compares to time-honored skincare practices.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
1. The Hype and Personal Anecdotes
- Regina shares the explosion of the anti-aging market and her personal intrigue regarding red-light therapy masks.
- Regina Barber (00:17): “Aging is something I think about a lot like every single day for the last three decades as I applied my moisturizer and sunscreen. Which is why I was intrigued by the claims that red light ... could actually reduce signs of aging.”
- She surveys NPR colleagues, uncovering positive but anecdotal experiences with RLT.
- Mansi Khurana (01:43): “I use it once a week. I think surprisingly I do think it works. Like I do notice that my skin feels ... just a little tighter after I use it.”
- Nina Phil (02:02): “I had heard great things ... I have a skin disease and very sensitive skin on my face. So I thought this isn't a bad thing to have. In addition, it can't hurt, right? I love it.”
2. Introducing the Science Expert
- Dr. Michelle Wong, a PhD chemist and skincare expert, is brought in to clarify the science amid all the marketing “woo.”
- Michelle Wong (03:15): “It's meant to be good for skin ... There's a lot of woo around it, I feel ... But it turns out there is stuff behind it.”
3. How Red Light Therapy Actually Works
(05:03–06:44)
- Red and infrared light are longer wavelengths that penetrate skin more deeply, possibly “powering up” mitochondria in skin cells.
- The process: Red light may displace nitric oxide within mitochondria, making cell respiration more efficient and thus increasing processes like cell growth, wound and hair healing.
- Michelle Wong (05:11): “We have things called mitochondria, the powerhouse of the cell ... there's nitric oxide that's sitting in the space where oxygen should be. And the red light just kicks out the nitric oxide. So now the oxygen can come in for respiration. You get more chemical energy, which means you get more cell processes.”
4. Is “More Light” Always Better? Caution and Limitations
(07:52–09:49)
- Medical-grade RLT at clinics is more powerful than home devices. Home masks and panels vary widely in effectiveness due to lack of standardization and regulation.
- Michelle Wong (07:52): “Usually … in clinic treatment, it's going to be a lot stronger ... masks usually have a lot less LEDs.”
- Many at-home devices may not match their advertised specs. Overdoing it can cause adverse effects—broken blood vessels or darker spots.
- Michelle Wong (08:59): “There's just ... a lot of lack of regulation and standardization ... you see a lot of people who have just gone too bright for too long and they're reporting side effects ... broken blood vessels, their dark spots getting much darker.”
- Regina Barber (09:49): “Yeah, when they say like three to five times a week, it doesn't mean daily ... more light [is not] better.”
5. How to Choose (and Should You Trust?)
(10:34–11:36)
- Consult a dermatologist before starting.
- Seek companies with robust clinical data and good return policies (Omnilux noted for their studies).
- Tailor products to your specific needs; RLT may not be the best fit for everyone or every skin issue.
- Michelle Wong (11:09): “Looking up reviews for your specific skin tone and for what you actually want to use the product for ... in general, the amount of evidence for red light is much less than for other skin care things that are really well established.”
6. What Works Even Better: Proven Skincare Basics
(11:36–13:36)
- Sunscreen is the #1 anti-aging skincare step, with massive evidence behind its efficacy.
- Michelle Wong (11:52): “Sunscreen is the best skincare product because a lot of our skin aging is from the sun. … People who were wearing sunscreen every day, their skin, during the four to five year time they were wearing the sunscreen, there were no increased visible signs of aging.”
- Prescription retinoids (like tretinoin) and over-the-counter derivatives (retinol) are also strongly evidence-backed for improving skin texture and combating aging.
- Michelle Wong (12:54): “The second biggest thing is probably tretinoin ... it can increase collagen and elastin ... There are the cosmetic versions like retinol ... they also work.”
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments
- Michelle Wong (03:15): "There's a lot of woo around it, I feel, which is why it feels so pseudoscience-y to begin with. But it turns out there is stuff behind it."
- Regina Barber (06:44): “As a physicist, I kind of expect like light, which is energy, to be bad for my skin. So how is sending, you know, light into my skin, how can it be good for me?”
- Michelle Wong (11:52): “Sunscreen is the best skincare product ... For white people, it's been estimated that 80% of visible skin aging is from sun exposure.”
Key Timeline
- 00:17 – Regina introduces anti-aging market & her curiosity about RLT
- 01:43 – Office anecdotes (Mansi, Nina)
- 03:03 – Michelle Wong, science-focused guest, introduced
- 05:11 – Explanation of how RLT affects skin cells (mitochondria mechanism)
- 07:52 – Clinic treatments vs. at-home devices; lack of standardization
- 09:49 – Side effects of overuse
- 10:34 – Advice for consumers: consult dermatologist, seek evidence
- 11:46 – Michelle emphasizes proven basics: sunscreen and retinoids
- 13:36 – Episode concludes
Conclusion
While red-light therapy has some scientific plausibility—primarily through stimulating mitochondrial activity in skin cells—the field is still rife with unproven claims, uneven device quality, and sparse regulation. For most people seeking youthful, healthy skin, daily sunscreen and retinoids remain more reliable, scientifically validated choices. As Dr. Wong encourages, approach RLT with cautious optimism, but keep your skincare foundations in place.
For more science with wit and warmth, check out other Short Wave episodes wherever you get your podcasts.