Short Wave: "What Works – And Doesn’t – For Hair Loss?"

Date: October 27, 2025
Host: Sydney Lupkin (NPR Pharmaceuticals Correspondent)
Featured Guests: Dr. Carolyn Goh (UCLA dermatology), Allison Richards (patient), Thea Chassen (Bald Girls Do Lunch), Dr. Jessica Shepherd (hers telehealth)
Duration: ~13 minutes

Episode Overview

This engaging episode of Short Wave explores the science behind hair loss, what causes it, and which treatments are supported by evidence—and which are not. Host Sydney Lupkin guides listeners through the personal journeys of women who have experienced hair loss and consults leading experts to debunk myths, break down treatment options, and offer hope to those navigating hair loss of their own.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Personal Stories: The Emotional Toll of Hair Loss

• Allison Richards recounts a dramatic shift in her self-image as her hair began thinning and falling out, especially during COVID-19:
  • “There was one day in the shower where just I had hundreds of strands of hair, like fistfuls of hair coming out.” (00:57)
  • She describes the fear and devastation of this experience:
    • “It was a very scary experience.” (01:16)

Societal Misconceptions

• Hair loss is often seen as a “guy thing,” but statistically, half of all women experience it at some point.
  • “And if that’s you and your algorithm gets a whiff, good luck.” (01:22)

2. The Biology of Hair Loss

• Dr. Carolyn Goh explains normal hair growth cycles—growth, transition, rest (telogen)—and why some hair loss is expected:
  • “It’s at the end of that telogen phase when your hair actually sheds...because there’s a new hair growing and pushing it out.” (04:33)
  • Events like stress, childbirth, or illness (e.g., COVID-19) can temporarily synchronize these cycles, causing noticeable shedding—but most hair will grow back:
    • “Mostly it’s time will tell...most of the time it’s fine.” (05:04)

3. Types of Hair Loss & How to Identify Them

• Pattern Hair Loss (Androgenetic Alopecia):

  • Most common form—men see a receding hairline; women see a widening part—primarily hormonal in cause. (05:19)

• Other Types:

  • Alopecia Areata: Autoimmune; patchy hair loss.
  • Scarring Alopecias: Often have clear symptoms like smooth bald patches, itching, redness, pimples on scalp.
  • Dr. Goh cautions to look out for “smooth spots...with a lot of itching and tenderness and redness.” (05:52)

Memorable Moment

• Thea Chassen’s story: Diagnosed with alopecia areata after her hairdresser found a bald patch:
  • “Go see a dermatologist.” (06:39)
  • Despite successful treatment with steroids, her hair loss eventually progressed, and she now embraces baldness and advocates for women’s confidence.
  • “I go out bald when I want to, but it’s an option. And I’m all about putting women in the driver’s seat of their life with alopecia.” (07:06)

4. Diagnosis Challenges & Why It Matters

• Diagnosis can be slow and frustrating:
  • Allison’s advice: “Call the doctor’s office regularly...I call them every single day and I will ask every day, ‘Did someone cancel?’” (08:14)
• Telehealth’s pros and cons:
  • Dr. Jessica Shepherd discusses online prescriptions for hormonal female pattern hair loss.
  • Thea Chassen argues telehealth isn’t enough for conditions with lookalikes: “You could have a fungal condition...and that’s treatable, but you don’t want to wait.” (09:49)

5. Science-Backed Treatments: What’s Proven, What’s Not

• Topical Minoxidil (Rogaine):

  • The mainstay for decades, lengthens growth phase, keeps more hair on your head, but messy to use and not a cure-all.
  • “It does work, but a lot of people find it to be messy and difficult and it doesn’t work necessarily quite as well as people would like.” (10:32)

• Oral Minoxidil & Spironolactone:

  • Allison Richards uses both; they're not FDA-approved for hair loss in women, but help her. Her doctor monitors closely with regular check-ins and blood tests.
    • “My doctor...would literally go through a checklist...How are you feeling? Emotionally, physically, mentally?” (11:38)

• JAK Inhibitors:

  • Recent breakthrough for alopecia areata (autoimmune type) with evidence for regrowth — but not helpful for typical pattern loss. (10:03)

• Alternative Remedies:

  • Rosemary oil showed some effect in one randomized controlled trial; onion juice, cucumber, and other folk remedies lack scientific backing.
    • “If that [cucumber] worked, cucumbers would probably be $50 a pop for hair loss.” – Dr. Goh (03:54)

6. Social Media: Double-Edged Sword

• Celebrities can set unrealistic standards (many wear wigs/extensions); however, there’s empowerment and community from hair loss influencers and online groups (like Reddit). (12:05)

• Allison’s reassurance:

  • “There’s always going to be somebody to hold your hand, cheer you on. And if you ever feel like your beauty is compromised, beauty gets redefined.” (12:36)

Notable Quotes & Segments

• Hair growth and loss explained:
  • “It’s actually because there’s a new hair growing and pushing it out.” – Dr. Carolyn Goh (04:33)
• On unproven remedies:
  • “If that worked, cucumbers would probably be $50 a pop for hair loss.” – Dr. Carolyn Goh (03:54)
• Patient advocate voice:
  • “I’m all about putting women in the driver’s seat of their life with alopecia.” – Thea Chassen (07:06)
• On beauty and community:
  • “There’s always going to be somebody to hold your hand, cheer you on...beauty gets redefined.” – Allison Richards (12:36)

Summary Timeline

| Timestamp | Segment/Topic | |-----------|--------------------------------------------------------| | 00:16 | Allison’s story: the emotional shock of hair loss | | 01:22 | Women & hair loss: prevalence and social impact | | 03:54 | Dr. Goh debunks hair loss fads and explains the science| | 04:33 | Hair growth cycles and why some loss is normal | | 05:19 | Types of hair loss and common symptoms | | 06:39 | Thea Chassen: life with alopecia areata, acceptance | | 08:14 | Diagnosis issues & tips for seeing a specialist | | 09:20 | Telehealth: fills a gap, but has limits | | 10:03 | New treatments: JAK inhibitors for alopecia areata | | 10:32 | Minoxidil & other options for pattern hair loss | | 12:05 | Social media: pitfalls & support | | 12:36 | Redefining beauty, the power of community |

Tone & Style

• The discussion is empathetic, science-driven, and often laced with humor.
• Quotes reflect both the struggle and the empowerment found in confronting hair loss, emphasizing scientific literacy and emotional support over miracle cures or quick fixes.