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Regina Barber
You're listening to Short Wave from NPR. Until this week, the United States hadn't approved a new sunscreen ingredient in almost 30 years. That changed when the FDA approved a new chemical UV filter for US Sunscreens on Tuesday. NPR health correspondent Maria Godoya is here to tell us all about it. Hey, Maria.
Maria Godoy
Hi, Gina.
Regina Barber
So what is this ingredient that just got approved?
Maria Godoy
Yeah, it's called bimitrizinol and it's a chemical UV filter that's been used in sunscreens in Europe and Asia for a long time. Often it's also sold under the name Tinnisorb S. Here you will see it as Parcel Shield. That's the trademark name for it from the company that got it approved for sale in the U.S. i talked about this with Dr. Heather Rogers. She's a dermatologist in Seattle and a spokesperson for the American Academy of Dermatology. And she says she is psyched about this new ingredient.
Regina Barber
It hits like really every box for us that we have been waiting for as dermatologists and consumers. I love sunscreen, so I'm really excited about this. We actually did an episode last year on why US Sunscreens have lagged behind European and Asian ones. And part of the reason was that there's different regulations for how sunscreen is approved in the U.S. yeah, that's right.
Maria Godoy
I absolutely love sunscreen too. Use it every day of the year. And you're right, it's a long process, partially because in the US There's a higher bar for proving that they're safe and effective. In Europe, they treat sunscreens as cosmetics and it's also expensive. So companies in the past have looked to get new sunscreen ingredients approved here, but they gave up because it just costs way too much money. And in fact, it took 20 years to get this new ingredient approved here. And millions and millions of dollars
Regina Barber
today on the show. Why approve this new sunscreen now after a 20 year wait? Plus how it works? I'm Regina Barber and you're listening to Short Wave, the science podcast from N. Foreign.
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Regina Barber
Follow us to make sure you never miss a new episode. New ones drop every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday. Okay, Maria, we're talking about the newly FDA approved sunscreen ingredient Bemitrizinol. And to understand it, I think we need a little sunscreen 101. Sunscreen's main purpose is to protect against two types of UV rays, UVA and UVB. These are different parts of the electromagnetic spectrum, but that's probably not helpful for people. So Maria, break down what's the difference between both of them?
Maria Godoy
Okay, so what I use this heuristic, which is uva. Those are the longer wavelengths and they're responsible for aging. So A, for aging, like premature aging, uvb, they're shorter wavelength and those are the ones responsible for, you know, burning basically. B, for burning a freej. Okay.
Regina Barber
But they actually both kind of affect both things, right? It's a little bit more complicated than that.
Maria Godoy
Yeah. They can both cause skin cancer basically. Yeah. Yeah. And you know, uva, one thing is about it is that people don't realize that it can come through windows. That's one reason you should be wearing sunscreen. And if you're driving. So Heather Rogers actually has this photo on her website that was originally published in the New England Journal of Medicine and it shows this man who was a professional truck driver for nearly three decades and the left side of his face that Was exposed to UVA rays through his window. Looked at least 20 years older than the right side of his face. So the damage is real. Folks wear sunscreen.
Regina Barber
You know, I've seen this image before. It's, it's. It's terrifying.
Maria Godoy
Yeah. If you don't care about cancer, be vain and wear sunscreen for that reason.
Regina Barber
That's what I do it for. But both kinds of radiation, uva, UVB are linked to skin cancer. Right. So, like, you want to wear sunscreen to protect against UVA and UVB rays, which makes a sunscreen broad spectrum.
Maria Godoy
Right, right, exactly. Because, you know, your sunscreens, you know, and there's a few ways you can get that broad spectrum protection. So mineral or physical sunscreens or chemical sunscreens, those are the options we have. Heather Rogers, who we heard from earlier, told me they both absorb UV radiation and release it as harmless heat. That's the primary way they work. Mineral or physical sunscreens are bigger particles, and they form a protective layer on your skin. And so another thing they do is they physically reflect and scatter UV rays.
Regina Barber
So those are the ones with things zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.
Maria Godoy
Yeah, exactly. Those are minerals. You know, in their pure form, they're white powders. And so when you apply it, they often leave what people call it a white cast. You know, it depends on the formulation and the SPF level. But you'll often hear people complain that their mineral sunscreens don't blend super well. So, you know, they might not be as likely to wear them because they don't want to look funny. And Heather Rogers says that's a problem. You want people to wear sunscreen, particularly
Regina Barber
if you're a person of color. Zinc is going to make you look pale white or ashy, which really makes it hard to use on a regular basis. But benetrizanol is different, right?
Maria Godoy
Yeah. So it's a chemical UV filter. It's a chemical sunscreen, what we call chemical sunscreens. And they work a little different because
Regina Barber
they get absorbed into your skin. Right. Instead of, like sitting on top of your skin.
Maria Godoy
Yeah, Right. So they blend super evenly. And so you end up with something that's transparent on your skin. And the plus side of chemical sunscreens is they don't make people look super ghostly pale. But one downside is, for a lot of people, they can be more irritating. I don't know about you, Gina, but I've always actually avoided chemical sunscreens because I sweat a lot in the heat, which is when you're Going to be wearing sunscreen the most. Although I wear it all the time. And anyway, when I sweat, it gets in my eyes. And that burns.
Regina Barber
Yeah. When I've noticed the more I reapply, the more it gets into my eyes.
Maria Godoy
Yeah, exactly. So I always use mineral for that reason. Plus the chemical sunscreen options we've had in the U.S. until now, the UV filters only protect against either UVA or UVB. So in order to get that broad spectrum protection, they have to combine them. And sometimes that can make for a greasier formula because these are soluble liquids, and the more you combine, the greasier they get. That's what one cosmetic chemist told me. But belmotresinol, this new ingredient that just got approved, has UVA and UVB protection all in one. So that's another bonus.
Regina Barber
Yeah, I remember Heather from earlier saying that it just checked every box. So is that why it makes it better or is there even more?
Maria Godoy
But wait, there's more.
Regina Barber
Gina.
Maria Godoy
So another issue with chemicals, sunscreen ingredients in the US is that, you know, like the UV filters, some of them can start to break down when they're exposed to uv.
Regina Barber
That's why you have to reapply. Right, Right.
Maria Godoy
They're not very, what's called photo stable. But bimitrizinol breaks down more slowly when exposed to the sun. Heather. Roger says you just get a little more protection that way.
Regina Barber
So if you go a little longer than hours to reapply your sunscreen, there will be more protection left. But you always still should reapply.
Maria Godoy
Oh, my gosh. Yeah, definitely reapply. It just gives you a little bit more protection.
Regina Barber
But, you know, so when it comes to chemical sunscreen, there also has been a lot of talk. You know, there's worries that it might disrupt hormonal pathways. You know, sunscreen might not be good for you. Where does that fear come from?
Maria Godoy
Yeah, so there have been studies have shown chemical sunscreens can be absorbed in humans and found in blood and breast milk and urine, though they haven't been shown to be harmful or cause cancer in humans. You know, I should note, when it comes to a chemical UV filter called oxybenzone, there are some concerns that it may act as a hormone disruptor in humans, but more research is needed. That's why the FDA has called for more safety data on sunscreen and chemical filters. And actually, belmotresinol, this newly approved ingredient, is the only chemical UV filter for sunscreens in the US that has been designated by the FDA as generally recognize as safe. And effective.
Regina Barber
Wow.
Maria Godoy
Yeah. The other two sunscreen ingredients that have that same designation are the mineral ones, so zinc oxide, titanium dioxide.
Regina Barber
What about bimmetrizenol? Makes it different from the other chemical sunscreens?
Maria Godoy
Well, you know, it's bigger molecule size.
Regina Barber
It.
Maria Godoy
So it kind of sits more on the surface of the skin, doesn't absorb very easily into the bloodstream at all. So that's really not a concern.
Regina Barber
Okay.
Maria Godoy
Yeah.
Regina Barber
When am I going to be able to get this new sunscreen? I'm excited.
Maria Godoy
I am, too. I asked dms, which is the company that, that got Metresanol through the FDA approval process, and they told me they've been talking with various sunscreen manufacturers in the US and, you know, they expect the first products with this ingredient to hit US shelves in late August or more likely early September.
Regina Barber
This year.
Maria Godoy
Yeah, this year.
Regina Barber
Wow. That's pretty soon.
Maria Godoy
Yeah. Come on, sunscreen.
Regina Barber
Maria Godoy, thank you so much for coming on Short Wave and bringing us the story.
Maria Godoy
Oh, it's truly my pleasure. Because, you know, I love sunscreen.
Regina Barber
We both do. This episode was produced by Rachel Carlson and edited by a showrunner, Rebecca Ramirez. Tyler Jones checked the facts. Jimmy Keeley was the audio engineer. I'm Regina Barber. Thank you for listening to Shore Wave from npr.
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Date: June 12, 2026
Hosts: Regina Barber, Emily Kwong (not present in this episode)
Guest: Maria Godoy (NPR Health Correspondent)
Specialist Sourced: Dr. Heather Rogers (Dermatologist, American Academy of Dermatology Spokesperson)
This episode dives into a landmark regulatory development in skincare: for the first time in nearly three decades, the FDA has approved a new sunscreen ingredient for use in the U.S. Maria Godoy joins host Regina Barber to discuss why this approval took so long, what makes the new ingredient (bimetrizinol) significant, and what this means for sunscreen users in America moving forward.
Mineral (Physical) Sunscreens
Chemical Sunscreens
Broad-Spectrum Coverage in One Molecule
Safety Profile
After decades of waiting, American consumers and dermatologists will soon get access to more advanced, effective, and user-friendly sunscreens thanks to bimetrizinol. This globally trusted UV filter delivers broad-spectrum protection with improved aesthetics and safety, promising healthier skin and marking a breakthrough in U.S. skincare options.
For the full science-packed discussion and lively banter, listen to the episode via Short Wave.